ospho and primer test 1

[@Okie-Tom]

Hi there, this was an interesting experiment you did. I have been using ospho a lot of years without problems. I was curious about what you had done here so I called Cecil, which he is the owner of the company that makes ospho. I explained exactly how you did your test with each panel. Nth at you used a scotchbrite and then wiped off the first panel with a rag. What he said was first of all, when you put ospho on the metal and scotchbrite it until clean and then wipe off the panel immediately, you have, with the scotchbrite, removed any tooth the ospho made in the metal. He said when you get it all cleaned up to put another coating of ospho on it and let it set for 30 or 45 minutes before cleaning up. The ospho's acid will put a tooth on the metal for good adhesion. I asked him about what primers he recommended to go over ospho and he said they had not tested all primers of course but some brands of epoxy had some problems as did self etching primer. Most were fine. Tom

[@MrFireman164]

This is about Spi epoxy only and yes I understand that some epoxies work fine over acid, this was just for spi. Now I also understand the recommendation from ospho is to spray it on and let it sit for 24 hours before top coating it, maybe that would work however not sure I want to take that chance of paint failure when you spend thousands on product alone to paint a car. I always tell people to look at the product sheet before using any kind of acid under it.

[@BraddaMarlon]

So how do we prep ospho for 2 part carrep epoxy

[@ThePipeiper]

Man you have been a blessing with your videos. Thanks for another great one.

[@MrFireman164]

The Pipe iper thanks 🙏🏻

[@kickerpunter8414]

I'm 4 mins in & I already know this is the video I've been wanting to see. I've been using different things to keep off rust off the roof of my truck until I can prime it & it's been an ordeal. I can't seem to pull the trigger on priming it. Something always seems not right & makes me doubt. I'm interested to see how this comes out. Thanks again.

[@Velvethamma]

I agree with Gary.... Ospho or phosphoric acid treatments are taboo for some and habit for others. I like the fact you do your homework and share the results for all to see... good or bad. I'm curious about the Southern Polyurethanes products. A fellow tuber sent me some that I have yet to have a chance to use. Can't wait to try it as I have read numerous good things about the products

[@MrFireman164]

Thanks for watching , we hopefully will get some good results here in a week

[@deankay4434]

Southern Polyurethanes products recommends using Ospho acid etch "IF" it is needed for your project. It can be found in their "FAQ" section on their website.

[@ZZZZ-wz4ue]

Nice overall presentation. However with that said, unless I missed something earlier in the this presentation, i perceive a deficiency in your approach with the 3rd panel as can be observed at 3:51 as follows: " You state that you will apply the Ospho on it initially, scrub it then wash it Off With Water Real Good, and then dry it and then wait 24 hours, then reapply the Ospho on it, then wash it with water then let it dry." With this approach on panel No. 3 you have then effectively and essentially repeated the same procedure as applied to panel No. 2. Why ? Because you washed panel No.3 on the first round with water, thereby effectively neutralizing the Ospho, then the next day you applied Ospho once again, let it set for 5 minutes, then washed it off. Thereby effectively repeating panel No. 2 approach ! What you should of done with panel No. 3: Instead of rinsing with water initially, the Ospho should of been left on the panel over night just like you did with panel No. 1, but then the next day reapply the Ospho to reinitiate the acid, wait 5 minutes, then and only then, thoroughly rinse with water, then thoroughly let dry, as this is the proper approach as advised by Southern Urethanes epoxy primer instructions. Products like "Ospho" or "A Must for Rust" are basically phosphoric acid derivative solutions and are purpose created to allow one to clean up metal, neutralize the oxidation by applying their phosphoric acid product by letting it dry on the surface and effectively then allowing one to keep the product on the metal surface so one has the option to store the clean metal in a protected housed area which is free from dew and repeated moisture without the risk of blush or new rust forming. Then when it comes time to paint using epoxy systems, reactivate the acid by reapplying the phosphoric acid product to the treated panel, then neutralizing the acid with water, then drying the surface. Whereby one can then apply epoxy to the previously treated surface safely without risk of adhesion failures It appears that epoxy paint system configurations reacts with the phosphoric residues on the treated unwashed surfaces whereby reportedly other type paint systems do not react and the lightly scuffed white acid residue actually helps adhesion. Therefore, one can conclude that epoxy is the lone wolf here as a paint type system that will not adhere ideally to an phosphoric acid treated surface. However, this premise is not to be confused with the Cl- ion residue that is left behind on a surface after using a sulfuric acid ( muriatic acid ) solution which is a completely different can of worms as in if one does not neutralize the sulfuric Cl- acid ion with a very strong base ( stronger then water ) like in using baking soda which a has a higher base ph then neutral water, the Cl- acid ion will re-induce oxidation (rust) at the molecular level on the metal surface wherever the opportunity for exposure to oxygen carrying moisture or exposed to atmosphere presents itself.

[@MrFireman164]

Yes , I should have let it sit overnight , but after reapplying the ospho , I didn't evinced that panel , I just wiped it down with a paper towl leaving residual ospho on the panel , which is the only panel that failed in my later ospho epoxy test . Did I do it perfect ? Probably not . Will I use ospho with spi epoxy ? No way, not without neutralizing the panel by rinsing it well after reactivating the acid , ang maybe not even then

[@turbocobra]

Cool man, I like it. You could ask 10 different people about this situation and probably get 10 different answers, so this way you will know for yourself... looking forward to seeing the result.

[@MrFireman164]

Me too , I'll prime them a little later today :)

[@Tanoble69]

This should be interesting - looking forward to the results.

[@TANNAMN]

I have some residual rust on the drip rail of my truck. Sandblasting is messy and alot more expensive than ospho. After all these years would you still recommend using ospho to treat the rust neutralizing the acid according to their technical data sheet and using SPI epoxy over the rust treated with ospho? Should I be concerned if the acid gets between the seams of the spot welds on the drip rail? Will I only run the risk of adhesion issues if the spi touches improperly neutralized acid?

[@MrFireman164]

Yeah I wouldn’t be that concerned in there, I would make sure it doesn’t run everywhere, like brush it on and leave it for 24 hrs come back and see, Run a Dremel with a small wire wheel over it to make sure the metal is clean and then clean it again with 70/30 iso to clean the bare metal, blow dry and epoxy. The thing is that that seam in the drip rail gets seam sealer as well so In my opinion it will be good to go.

[@SYFGARAGE]

I like the test. If all is well with the ospho and epoxy your are still only going to use it on the inner structure that you can't get 100% clean I take it?

[@MrFireman164]

Yes , I see no need for it on the outside of the car , since I can access all of that with sand paper .also he already had the whole car blasted except those inner panels that the blaster couldn't get to:)

[@brentcurry8376]

just as a note. the threads on the size bottle you have of Ospho you have are specifically designed by Ospho to be the most common thread type used in most standard spray bottles. meaning you probably could have just takin the spray head off of the spray bottle labeled "water" and put it directly on the Ospho.

[@shaneganske6212]

Great test! Did you try a panel with No Ospho at all and then apply epoxy primer /bondo setup to see if the Ospho was even helpful in the initial bonding? And maybe have a long term test out in the sun to see if it would breakdown in any way compared to the Ospho prepped panels?

[@MrFireman164]

4th panel I did had no ospho at all on it , I still have all those panels for a long term test

[@carylamari6546]

I like the experiment but, wouldn't you also need a mechanical bond after the acid? I mean if you almost polish the metal as you clean it, do you have enough scuff for the epoxy and then the bondo? I thought you had to have at least a 100 grit cut for the epoxy and bondo to adhere to?

[@MrFireman164]

Cary that's a good point , and the tech sheets do say 80 grit scratch , so I will 80 grit them all and then reapply to the first panel only and then wipe it off again and continue as I was on the rest , but I will add that step to all 4 panels , shouldn't change the acid reaction at all

[@ZZZZ-wz4ue]

ohh… forgot to add, it also appears at 15:45 you did not wash panel No. 2 with water in the final step and just blew it off after applying the Ospho. or did you actually wash it off with water but did not film that ? I bring this up since you filmed washing off panel NO. 3 with water in your video.

[@MrFireman164]

I cut away so the vid wasn't so long , I rinsed it .

[@jonsen2792]

Please Why did you rinse panel 3? Wouldn’t you already be neutralizing panel 3 since you rewet with acid the entire time and rinse, and not allowing the acid to dry?

[@MrFireman164]

jon sen jon sen according to the manufacturer of southern polyurethanes the only way to neutralize this acid is to reactivate it by re wetting it then rinsing with water .

[@jonsen2792]

@@MrFireman164 Thanks, I mean why didn't you let Ospho dry ? Basically what Im trying to see if rewetting the acid and rinses actually neutralizes when Ospho dries for a day or so.

[@gregmiller5907]

i c thats why/// told you i was assuming and thought it was redundunt you did a good job on this vid and im a subscriber now keep it up we always need this in the old car world yhere can never be too many opinions

[@MrFireman164]

Thanks for subbing !

[@gregmiller5907]

your quite welcome thnka you i can always use good advice// c ya!

[@265chevy]

look forward to see the results and i watched the whole thing lol later

[@MrFireman164]

Thanks 265 , it was pretty long vid , I'm pretty frustrated because that was a lot of work to have fish eyes ruin the test , I load the vid tonight

[@countryflyer4536]

The directions say to put on and leave it alone for 24 hrs. Then do your primer. your metal is not bad enough for two coats...Really don't understand your thought here. Its NOT A RUST REMOVER!!!!!

[@MrFireman164]

country flyer you are right I’m a dumbass ... you got me

[@DaxHamel]

$2500 for a ceiling fan, does the cashier provide KY jelly when you have to pay?

[@MrFireman164]

DaxHamel not sure never paid that much for one

[@DaxHamel]

I caught that, I don't have a money tree either. I was just flexing a weak sense of humor. Sorry.

[@MrFireman164]

DaxHamel no worries I got what you were putting down 👍

[@theropesofrenovation9352]

I'd rather hear you ramble =)

[@Skylightatdusk]

What is the blue looking fabric that you remove from a roll?

[@MrFireman164]

Scott towel

[@theropesofrenovation9352]

Viva Shop Towels. Then Scotch Brite Pad

[@josephpuchel6497]

Hey It’s been awhile what’s holding up the best. ?

[@MrFireman164]

Epoxy over proper prepped steel

[@BraddaMarlon]

@@MrFireman164 how do you proper prep

[@MrFireman164]

@@BraddaMarlon clean the steel with water borne wax and grease, 80 grit with new sharp paper for a good tooth, re clean and spray epoxy, if acid is used, reactivate acid with more acid use red scotch brite pad and hot soapy water to clean acid residue of metal, then prime, or if you want you can 80 grit for the tooth or blast whatever you like. Epoxy asap

[@cheftush]

Hmmm, can't view the vid unfortunately....

[@MrFireman164]

Sorry not sure why that would happen , I can tell you that I epoxy primed today , and got fish eyes like crazy , trying to figure out how now ?

[@georgemanthe65]

You totally lost me with the headbanger shit

[@nickrangel139]

No. This is not at all how to use OSPHO.

[@MrFireman164]

Exactly this guy is a moron