Outdoor Portraits Tutorial: How to use natural light and fill flash with digital photography

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[@TonyAndChelsea]

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[@davidalley2454]

Tony and Chelsea......love your posts. I will need to check out the park since I live in CT. Do you offer any in-person photo shoots that I could attend?

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Thanks! Not only is she beautiful, she's smart, too. She's also my co-photographer, editor, and book designer :)

[@auxmike718]

And wife!

[@alvan3286]

It’s crazy inspiring how far you guys have come as photographers and video creators

[@karlhans6678]

The woman is so beautiful it's hard to tell which picture looks bad.

[@romanfreiter7943]

There is so much content and these guys are so helpful and try so hard to educate beginner photographers... Painful to watch comments about Chelsea's looks. She's the man's wife for crying out loud. Have some respect people!

[@raybohn7]

The orange sphincter is trolling anything with her in a photo

[@tauseeftariq]

You did not talked about that flash settings at all. Other than that it was great video

[@Andyvalver]

Nobody is more inspiring than Brian peterson in the photography world

[@Dabket3araB]

I googled the term photogenic and Chelsea came up.

[@therigidperson4079]

Your pictures can NEVER be bad, because, Chelsea is Gorgeous!! Your equipment is too TOP NOTCH! And you are a Professional photographer with Tremendous SKILLS

[@parvezbambam2374]

yes adding a flesh light to shaded area works good in portrait images.

[@gabrielg4498]

It's best to use flesh lights in shaded areas, it draws less attention.

[@I.AM.STANLEY]

wow. so I have been watching you two for a year now. I finally just made it across this video because I'm in a pickle that I haven't had since starting photography. you two are amazing but the real amazing thing is how you have become comfortable in front of the camera. youre so more relaxed and personal in the newer videos. reguardless the info in this video is timeless. thanks a lot

[@deannemumm7212]

can you tell me what your camera settings are in this video?

[@ourwanderingstory1290]

Love your dynamic during the videos and lets not deny the simple fact that your wife is a beautiful model! thank you x

[@worldofbraiding]

Hi, I have my T3 in manual can I shoot having the lens on auto focus?

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Yes

[@markramage7170]

Tony, I really, really appreciate your honest and unpretentious spirt. You communicate a volume of data here and reinforce it in a simple, practical way. So many of your peers are lacking these skills. As a newcomer to the game :-) Thank You, and I'll be watching. - Mark

[@user-fl4wn9dn2c]

GREAT video thank you

[@TonyAndChelsea]

+William Knight You're welcome!

[@robseale8569]

Btw-Tony, you are a great instructor. Easy to listen to and obviously knowledgable. Keep up the good work.

[@FidaPr]

No matter how you shoot, with a model like her its always right. She is fucking beautiful !

[@MiguelMejia]

Oh man, I haven't found a video on KZbin that was as concise and helpful on this topic as this one. Thanks a lot!

[@rydaug79]

Chelsea is a fox: it just can't be denied.

Its those lips!

[@allennichols928]

I shot my first wedding last weekend. This tutorial made all the difference and the advice is much appreciated.

[@rbela76]

earlier I had this experience step by step, with a low level camera, but what Tony is telling is would save lots of hassle for me back then. all great tutorial, well thought and professional yet very easy to adopt. Gear job guys !

[@sabinemetz]

I was with you until you used the flash... Nobody wants white dots dead centre in their pupils. In my opinion it looks way better to use a reflector below, for catchlights and filling in shadows.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Agreed. We have many detailed lighting videos, and entire chapters in Stunning Digital Photography dedicated to more complex lighting setups. This video is just intended to give people a quick way to improve shots with nothing but an on-camera flash.

[@sabinemetz]

Tony Northrup Except it did not improve the shot... I'm sorry.

[@sabinemetz]

***** He's introducing the flash just to get the catchlight ("white dots") so that would be ridiculous. Also, removing catchlights in post looks VERY unnatural. Your model can hold a reflector herself in most situations on a tight crop like this. I'd go for any option over the "flash it to bits & fix it in post" attitude, even if that means having to pay an assistant.

[@sabinemetz]

***** You're absolutely right, I'm a full-time photographer so I might look at things quite differently than a hobbyist. Though I thought I'd help people who are new to photography by stating a bit of my own vision on things like this situation. My opinion is just as valid as anyone else's, so do with it as you wish. I'm not dictating anything, experiment as you wish.

[@RobertsonDMcI]

***** Golly, gee whiz Sabine ... Tony is talking to me and not the professionals who are not watching this tutorial. Oh why do I bother??!! Anyhow Tony .. keep the good info coming.

[@Johnnysaintrizz]

hey guys, you need to get this book. im a novice, and bought this books with my canon t3i, and i have been thanking God that i did. this book is incredible! its so easy to understand and so challenging at the same time. i give it 5 stars!....btw, Tony, your model is SO BEAUTIFUL! lol ;) ciao

[@imtrollingson]

o chelsea :(

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Yes, all of the above. The flash will provide similar effect in any of those modes. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book (link in the description) for more detail.

[@CharlesBecket]

Tony, I love your videos but I have to respectfully disagree with you on this one. The photo of Chelsea in the sun, just outside of the pergola offered contrast and looked good. The others were dead flat 1:1 and looked rather lifeless. Keep up the good work. I will continue to tune in. Thanks.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

You might need a neutral density filter if it's really bright... but I've never needed one. Maybe use less flash and let the background be overexposed?

[@dwt110]

Remember guys, all of your problems can be solved simply by turning your flash on. World hunger? No biggie. War on terror? Easy peasy! Providing fill light for a portrait photo? Sure it can do that I guess, but a waste of potential.

[@seatbeltdisco]

nice work man. you have a very natural teacher's disposition. keep it up, the more people that get interested in photography the better.

[@miramezjr]

this girls is really beautiful. im falling in love

[@mcatuara1]

Miramez Jr That's Tony's Wife...sorry

[@miramezjr]

i didnt know. sorry :P

[@hemidesign]

+Mira Jr hahahahahah

[@4FRodrigo]

I've been watching you for many years and the content keeps getting better and better! It is possible to learn new things in every video, even old ones such as this and though that is too basic for me, I enjoy watching basic stuff because improvement may be in "insignificant" details.

[@platanitosz]

Chelsea is soooo bae

[@TheZaydeStation]

I own a D5100 too, and I've gotta say the manager pulled a fast one on you when he said the kit lens would actually be great for portraits. I love portrait photography, and after doing a lot and a lot of research I ended up buying the NIKKOR AF-S 50mm f/1.8G. This one is a lightweight prime lens, isn't too heavy on the wallet and most importantly- produces outstanding portraits with minimal distortion. If you have a bigger budget you can also try a zoom VR lens for better bokeh and versatility.

[@TheRasta25]

Sorry but you have to stop giving us great videos by making her as model , because all 5 min I was looking at her how beautiful she is

[@TonyAndChelsea]

You're welcome, and thank you! Enjoy that awesome flash. I cover the basics of flash in Chapter 3 and lighting for portraits in Chapter 6.

[@lokingloking]

gorgeous face...

[@PhotoshopMeNow]

oh, you!

[@smedz28]

Tony is punching well above his weight

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Good question. It always requires a bit of trial and error, but for fill flash outdoors, normally I start with -1.5 stops (using ETTL), take a shot, and then adjust as needed.

[@natecollins1715]

Tried to learn about lighting but was mesmorized by that beautiful woman...damn

[@Ranblv]

After watching many photography videos I ran into this one. Such a relief to see a video with short precise sentences and so eloquently spoken. You should teach how to make howto videos. Off to find your book on amazon.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

The 85mm f1.8 or a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron makes an excellent, inexpensive model. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (links in the descriptions) for complete details about portrait equipment and techniques.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

200mm, f/2.8, ISO 100, aperture priority (so shutter speed set automatically). If required, I used high speed sync on the flash. i would only need to use an ND filter if my camera couldn't use a fast enough shutter speed, or if I didn't have high-speed sync. More info in Chapters 3, 4, and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Hi, I discuss portrait equipment and techniques in detail in Chapter 6 of my book (links in the description) but the lens I'm using is the Canon 70-200 f2.8 L IS II. I recommend everyone get a 70-200 f2.8, but you can find cheaper versions made by Tamron and Sigma. For even less, try an 85mm f1.8.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

TTL with flash exposure compensation, usually -1.5 to .5 stops. I take a test shot and adjust it until I like the results.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

200mm (on a full frame camera) and f/2.8 to blur the background. I do use TTL, and usually adjust the output down 1.5 to 2.5 stops so it's not overpowering. You can't simply use those settings, though, because lighting conditions and even skin tone vary and you probably have different equipment. Instead, you should build an understanding of how they impact your photos and practice. Read through Chapters 3 and 6 in my book, Stunning Digital Photography, for more info (link in the description).

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Ah, glad you found it! Yeah, we're not yet in any bookstores, but you can buy it on Amazon, Kindle, Google Play, and Nook. We hope to expand to bookstores soon.

[@tothefly]

most informative video on portraits i've seen in a while. you're concise and thats a huge plus. definitely buying your book, thank you.

[@ADBvideos]

Thank you for these clear explanations with immediate demonstrations and comparison of portraits with different lighting adjustments. This is a great tutorial video!

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Thanks! This was in CT, about 2 hours from NYC. NYC is difficult to film in... permits and such.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Aperture priority, f/2.8 and 200mm for background blur. I dial in -1 or -1.5 stops of flash exposure compensation to add a catchlights without washing out the face. ISO 100 whenever I have enough light. I let the camera determine the shutter speed. As long as it's above 1/60th, there won't be any camera shake (thanks to IS) or motion blur. The camera settings are really the least important part of all this. Lighting, composition, posing, hair, makeup, expression, etc. are all more critical.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

On-camera flash with ETTL. Indoors, with low white ceilings, I'll do a bounce flash with the built-in white card. Outdoors I'll either point the flash directly toward the subject, or I'll put a small softbox on my flash. Chapters 3 and 6 in my book have some good information on flash.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

For these shots, the flash is in TTL mode, -1.5 or -2 stops flash exposure compensation.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Hey, thanks for writing. Those are the same shots I took during the video (though I snapped a handful each time and picked the best). You're right though, shadows look WAY better than sunlight. The shot in the sun (at 2:05) is at 1/500th, f/2.8, ISO 100. The shot in the shadow (2:35) is at 1/180, f/2.8, ISO 100. I used autoexposure, and apparently the shadow was about 1.5 stops darker than the direct light. If you look, the background does get brighter, but it also changes because she moved.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Pergola, it's a structure people put over their deck or patio to provide some shade. It's like a roof with gaps in it.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I'd get a 70-200 f2.8. Tamron, Sigma, and Canon all have good models. The more expensive models are sharper and overall better, but the lower-end models (the Tamron is only $750) get the job done, too. I do recommend the 85mm f1.8 for people on lower budgets, but if you have the cash for the 85 1.2, I'd definitely steer you toward a zoom instead. F/2.8 is generally plenty to blur the background nicely, and the zoom really makes it easy to recompose between headshots, body shots, etc.

[@kirayamato10astrike]

Hi Tony, got your book now. I'm a bit crazy looking this here in any bookstores in Taiwan but didn't found it, my last option is amazon so finally, I have it. The book is very simple and detailed and full of technicalities, a novice photographer like me would benefit a lot from this and it educates me in a lot of ways...I'm following your videos...keep posting...

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I start with ETTL, -1.5 stops, and adjust from there. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book (links in the description) for detailed information about exposure, flash, and portraiture.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I can be more specific if you tell me your budget and what type of photography you want to do. My standard recommendation is a Canon T3 kit; it's the cheapest DSLR you can buy, but it's very capable. New it's under $500 USD and used you can get it for MUCH less--check ebay. If you have extra money, save it for lenses, flash, tripod, memory card, etc.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Well, video is a bit wider than photo, so I do have to crop a bit off the top and bottom to fit the format. But I often do crop the top of the head for portraiture. It's a common technique. Check Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography, and just watch TV and movies to see how often the composition is used.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

In the studio you don't need to worry about background blur, so I usually shoot at f/8 or f/11. Basically I adjust the aperture to get the exposure I need with the studio lights, while shooting at ISO 100. Chapter 6 has lots of info about this :). You can buy the book directly from us using the third link in the description of the video, worldwide.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Yeah, the videos supplement the book but can't replace it. Chapters 4 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography cover all the nitty-gritty of using fill flash as I do in this video. The videos show the theory in practice. Honestly, it's not that hard. If your flash has power output controls, the buttons are right on it. Otherwise, you use flash exposure compensation on your camera body. Then, just take a test shot, adjust it up or down, and repeat until you're happy with the exposure.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Sorry, just saw this comment. The 70-200 f/2.8 is my portrait lens, and I really can't imagine needing anything other than a standard kit lens for group or wide angle shots. I have a video about lenses on my short list, so look for it soon. I haven't made a video about the menu system on the 5D3, but I should. Thanks for the idea. Mine is in the shop now, but I'll make it when it comes back.

[@saburusakai]

Ditto on the most concise and helpful. I did the first outdoor shoot I'd done in several yrs in the sun, and had forgotten so much of this (the vids of it should be on here in a couple of hrs). I was using my Pentax with the small flash (my airshow cam) rather than my Cannon with the big powerful flash. I can't believe I forgot that much of the basics in the few yrs since I'd done outdoor shoots. I've done some studio work as recent as a yr ago, but that's different world. GREAT vid.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Oh, probably -1.5 to -2 stops, that's pretty typical for me. But you can't just dial in the same setting, you have to learn how to read the scene and adjust to the light, distance to your subject, skin tone, etc. Check Chapters 3, 4, and 6 in my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more information.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Hi, Angel. If you have my book, go to the private Stunning Digital Photography Readers group on Facebook, where you can download the Flash Buyer's Guide with all the info you need. You can find examples of different flash modifiers in Chapter 4, and Chapter 6 is dedicated to portrait techniques.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

A Canon 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II and a Canon 580EX flash. However, I probably wouldn't recommend either of them to you. Check Chapter 7 in Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) for an overview of my wedding equipment recommendations, and read the Flash Buyer's Guide (in the Files section of the SDP Readers Group) for specific flash recommendations.

[@kashminderful]

thank you so much guys ! I learned a lot from your tutorials.They are the best available on youtube !!

[@TonyAndChelsea]

You make a valid point about AE lock, but no, I didn't use it. I just manually adjusted the flash output to taste.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

A 70-200 f/2.8 is ideal for portrait photography, but the lens you have can work great if you understand how to use it. You want a telephoto focal length to create flattering features. If you're outside the studio, you also want to have a short depth-of-field to blur the background. Background blur is influenced not just by aperture but distance to the subject, focal length, and distance behind the subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in description).

[@learntoclick7102]

Excellent information thank you. I like the way you have taken the photo then shown us the result - makes it so much easier to understand! Thanks.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I usually use aperture priority for portraits, and everything that's not a fast-moving subject. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in my book (Stunning Digital Photography, link in the description) for detailed information and more videos...

[@TonyAndChelsea]

The original 5D. I was using the Mark II to film. I've since bought the Mark III, but it wasn't out when I recorded this.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I used a Canon 568EX, but nowadays I'd recommend the YongNu 468EXII for this. You don't need a powerful flash, but you do need a flash that supports ETTL (or at least it makes life much easier). If you have Stunning Digital Photography, check the Flash Buyer's Guide in the Files section of the reader's group on FB for detailed information. If you don't have it... there's a link in the description of the video :)

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I've shared settings for a couple of photos in the comments, but what I'm trying to demonstrate with this video is that it's about the lighting, not the camera settings. No settings will make a shot look good if the sun directly in the model's face. The only settings that really impact these pictures are the aperture and focal length which create the short depth-of-field (f/2.8, 200mm). If you want to understand that, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book (links in the description).

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Oh, I use evaluative metering for everything. I didn't have to apply any EC; the standard exposure was fine. I did adjust the flash exposure compensation down about 1.5 stops. Thanks for buying the book!! You'll find lots of good information about metering, lighting, and portraits in Chapters 3, 4, and 6.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I like the 430EX. It has bounce, ETTL, and plenty of power for portraits, and it's a good price. If you decide to upgrade later, you can still use it as a second flash. Check eBay for used prices and save yourself a few bucks.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

For the lighting, yes, any camera will do. He specifically asked about the bokeh, though, and if you want as much blur as I showed in that video, you'd need to be full frame and at 200mm f/2.8.

[@urvashisthakur]

Tony I am just starting out my photography and each video you have has helped me learn so much. Thank you for the detailed explanations and all the hard work you have put in to help aspiring photographers. Thank you :D hugs

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I always just leave the WB set to auto, but since I shoot RAW, I can change it later. Check Chapters 3 and 4 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. There was minimal processing on the sample photos.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

That will work, but you need a portrait lens to get that nice background blur. I use a 70-200 f/2.8, or you could get an 85mm f/1.8 to get a similar effect a little cheaper. Your flash is fine; I just use -1.5 to -.5 stops flash exposure compensation. I cover using fill flash in Chapter 3 of my book Stunning Digital Photography and other details of portraiture in Chapter 6 (link in the description). The video is really just to supplement the book.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Check out the Sigma 70-200 with OS (their version of IS) for $1300, or the Tamron model without IS for $770. If you don't get IS, you just have to be careful to keep your shutter speed high enough to avoid camera shake, which often means using a higher ISO than you would otherwise need, which adds a bit of noise. So, the purpose of IS is really to reduce noise.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I suggest the YongNuo 468 or 568, depending on how much you want to spend. To blur the background, you need a "fast" telephoto lens, which means it has a low f/stop number. I use a 70-200 f/2.8 which starts at around $750. You can also use a 85mm f/1.8 and get good results. Check Chapters 4 and 6 in Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) for more info. If you buy the book, I have an entire Flash Buyer's Guide available to readers.

[@chenththuran]

Tony, I am a photography enthusiast, but like to learn more and move into professional level. I find your videos very helpful. thanks a lot. I already ordered your book on Amazon. Waiting eagerly.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I really don't recall, because I just shoot and then adjust it up or down for taste. I usually start at 1/4, though.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Be sure to read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description) to understand the factors that create the short depth-of-field you're looking for. Unfortunately the Sony NEX-F3 really isn't up for the job because it has a small sensor and doesn't have any available portrait lenses. I'd push you towards a Canon or Nikon full frame and a 70-200 f/2.8. In this video I'm using a Canon 5D Mark II and the Canon 70-200 f/2.8, but you could buy the Tamron 70-200.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Using fill flash or bounce flash will make that much better. Check Chapters 3 and 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (links in the description).

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I'd start with an ETTL flash, like the YongNuo 468EX-II. The challenge with the 560 is that it's manual only, which requires you to continually adjust it as lighting conditions change, slowing you down. I use a flash about 20x more often than the diffuser, mostly because it's simply more portable and doesn't require a second person to hold. Good luck!

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Autoexposed, 200mm, f/2.8. For shots with flash, usually -1.5 stop flash exposure compensation.

[@tealcsg8]

Great tutorial, great model, great photographer. Thanks.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

you don't always need flash, but unless there's some front-lighting, it's good to use some fill (as I show in this video). My 70-200 is the L Mk2 model. You can get less expensive models from Sigma and Tamron, though.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

I'll make a point of that in the future. I was using a Canon 5D Mark II or Mark III (wouldn't matter which for these photos), 200mm, f/2.8, and ISO 100 (standard settings for headshots) and auto shutter speed (as long as it stays above 1/60th). Auto white balance. Canon 70-200mm f/2.8, my favorite portrait lens. If you're interested in portrait settings, read Chapters 4 and 6 of my book Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description) which will teach you all about which settings to use.

[@Christophe_L]

Awesome thing you're doing, Tony. I like that you answer to the comments.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

My portrait lens, the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS MkII.

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Thanks! I go into this in detail in Chapters 3 and 6 of the book (link n the description) but you can either use ETTL or manual settings. Either way, it requires some trial-and-error, but for ETTL, start with -1.5 stops. How exactly you do that varies depending on the camera and flash you have. Hope that helps!

[@biyankan.perera.7617]

Great tips for beginner photographers, keep up the good work Tony !

[@robseale8569]

great tutorials. Chelsea, you are stunning, but I truly appreciate your skills as a photographer and I was working with some of your tutorials on levitation photography with my 8yo and a broom-as a witch. Beyond stunning Chelsea, you taught me something. thank you. I had some quality time with my daughter because of it. (little witch or not-heyyy-I said witch!) hehe. Thanks! Loved the old timey feel of the levitation bit you and tony did. you go girl. Rob

[@TonyAndChelsea]

True that, but full frame matters for portraits not because of megapixels but because of depth of field and low noise, and you can get a used 5D Mark II (my recommendation for a portrait camera) for $1300 now.

[@rickydelatejera]

Thanks Chelsea. You've made my day! LOL Have a wonderful 2013!! I've been doing photography for quite a long time, but I never get tired of refreshing my knowledge, so it is great to see videos like the ones you and Tony put out. THANK YOU! Muchas gracias!! Greetings from Mexico!!

[@TonyAndChelsea]

50mm (on a full frame) is "normal" (about what the eye sees) and that's classic for street photography. You'd want the 35mm on an APS-C camera to get the same perspective. You want something longer for portraiture, like a 70-200 or an 85mm. Check Chapter 6 of Stunning Digital Photography (link in the description).

[@TonyAndChelsea]

Well, I wrote a whole book on the topic, so check that out (links in the description). It has 3.5 hours of video included with it, much of it covering portraits, as well as all the fundamentals you need. That third link provides worldwide shipping.