Overview of Trailbuddy's Replacement Carb for 1969-1976 Honda CT70's

[@cameronlewis8628]

Your video was spot on. Thanks for explaining what and how everything works. I have a replica of the trail 70 that I'm working on to give to one of my grandsons. What a great little bike to learn on! Thanks for your help. Cam Lewis - Ames, IA

[@DaveKinskey]

Thanks very much for the great tutorial, Mark! Your tutorials are always well-made, and very helpful. :)

[@mr.k1177]

Great video. Just place my order 🎉

[@knoptop]

Great overview! Thanks!

[@JK-mh3ld]

Trying to clean my carburetor the other day and I removed what you described as the Idle Jet. Question: Should the hole that is in the center of that idle jet “center hole where the screwdriver goes to remove” blocked or should I see light through it? Should that center hole pass all the way through the jet? Not sure why that hole is there if it is blocked. I cannot see through mine when I cleaned it the other day and any attempt to get a thin wire to pass through failed. Also what is the float setting on that carburetor? I believe I have the same one. My CT sputters, back fires when applying throttle. Idles nice and starts on first kick even when cold. Thank you for the video and any help.

[@jonathanestradaja1000]

Where did the W clip go????

[@keithb5604]

I was wondering the same thing!

[@michaelcrosby6071]

Hello Mark, any recommendations for a aftermarket carburetor for a 1980 ct70? Side pod air cleaner is fine. Thanks

[@heydonray]

Great info.

[@michaelrowbottom8868]

What are the specs on the Float level for this carb. I.e. 20mm, 22mm etc

[@SpeakerKevin]

So when do you need to move the needle clip position? When do you need to change the main jet? What about the small idle jet? Why are there so many was to adjust the carb?

[@megastick9324]

There are many adjustments because the engine has many rpm ranges, therefore fuel and air demand changes. The main jet only really affects wide open throttle, if it’s too big it will bog or blubber in the exhaust when opened fully. Too small will result in popping through the carb or lack of top end speed/power. It’s adjusted by trial and error process to find which jet gives best top speed performance. If two give roughly the same, choose the smaller for better mileage. The needle affects everything from off idle to just before WOT, it is tapered, changing the clip height changes the amount of taper in play and how much fuel is allowed at various rpm’s through the mid range. Again, trial and error to adjust. Most often the mid position is sufficient , occasionally adjustment is needed , depending on how bike runs in mids. If it jerks or bucks at part throttle cruising, raising the needle will give more fuel. If mileage is bad or it feels soft on accel. Lowering the needle will lean it out. The low speed mixture is for idle and transition from idle to just off idle. It affects idle quality , starting and how smoothly tje engine responds as you just begin to open the throttle. All the adjustments work together, so changing one can affect the others and they may need readjustment for optimum efficiency. Taking the time to adjust properly will pay off. And once adjusted, shouldn’t need it again. Mikuni web sight has an excellent walk thru of the process. Don’t short cut or skip adjustments and it’ll be fine. Patience is key to carb adjustments.

[@SpeakerKevin]

@@megastick9324 Thank you. Hopefully the author of this video will learn something from your comment.