I've stopped using alkaline AA and AAA batteries: LI-ION is here (three month update on)

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[@curtchase3730]

Thanks for mentioning they are not a good choice for broadcast radio receivers. I bought a set of EBL branded cells, put in my old portable radio and quickly learned I could hardly get any reception on both AM (MW) and FM bands. Just got squealing. I also believe they don't fare well in storage. That little converter is constantly draining the cell. A few weeks at most.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Yes same problem here. Have to recharge about once a month. With 30 batteries that takes a long time to do.

[@thomashenden71]

I would think that toys for children, or any other device that is used intesively, draining batteries, maybe like this LED party lights that look like fat candle lights, would be good use cases, while radios,remotes,clocks, weather stations, sensors and everything else that needs the batteries being ready for a long time, should be powered with primary lithium cells.

[@Drmcclung]

I'm curious to try the li-ion AAA's in an FM transmitter of mine and see if it causes any trouble elsewhere. It'll be fantastic if they work out OK!

[@aikafuwa7177]

These batteries do not provide enough current for high current applications. The current limiter is way too restrictive.

[@OilNBolts1]

Nice. These can give new life to a few older tools that were never quite happy with Eneloops. Thanks for the quality video.

[@PJZombie]

You can get a version that has a 1 stage low power notification, I use them. Been using these for about just over 12 months. Fantastic, just not good if you wish to know when they are about to go flat. Mine has the circuitry that gives a low power notification but you don't get alot of low power notification time before it goes dead flat. You can get a version that gas no warning at all, that version has no electronic wine noise but has zero warning its about to go flat. I use mine in my Quest 3 VR Headset.

[@dporrasxtremeLS3]

When you get some time could you post a link to your recommendations. Thank you so much! Many times, I get so much from the comments on You Tube.

[@shaunbowen]

I'd love a link to these too as I want to use some in my Quest 3 controllers.

[@88njtrigg88]

Thanks for the heads-up.

[@TheTanman412]

Once you adjust to rechargeable batteries you realize how insane it was to throw them away after ONE SINGLE USE all this time… Almost as crazy as throwing away a rocket after launch

[@Gruuvin1]

There are upsides to disposables, which is why disposables still sell well compared to rechargeables.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Non rechargeable Lithium batteries last 20 years in storage. ALWAYS have something that WORKS when you need it.

[@Broken_robot1986]

Yeah no

[@kenspaceman3938]

I got the L8 charger. Ordered some AA and AAA Daweikala cells at the same time from AliExpress, only the cells estimated delivery date will be around November. Hoping to replace some Alkalines and good to know not to use these new ones with my ham gear, transceivers. Thanks for another great review! Cheers from Finland, Ken

[@DH-sw6vg]

How does the stated capacity compare to the *_actual_* capacity? How about sustainable current delivery?

[@gerthddyn]

I'm going to guess that you can't tell how much self discharge you get with them sitting in a device very easily or even just sitting in your backpack. Lithium Ion tends to have no self-discharge sitting in open air, but I don't know if the DC-DC converter is permanently tied to the negative side and thus always pulling power. Also I'd like to know if it creates a humm in older style bose noise cancelling headphones that use a single triple A.

[@aracrg]

I find their power output a bit limited. Their overcurrent protection drops the output voltage quite low in one sudden switch, and it can be quite frustrating in some devices which suddenly experience this big drop in power and performance. And that dropout sometimes reverses and power suddenly goes back up!

[@american7169]

How well do these handle heat is my big question. I always keep flashlights in my vehicles and have to keep the zinc garbage batteries in them so no leakage in summer. No runtime

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Use Energizer batteries. Duracells are very well know to LEAK. Many cheap aftermarket ones do too. Duracells have been well know to destroy Maglite flashlights.

[@goodun2974]

​@@crazysquirrel9425, If you really want the automobile flashlight to work in an emergency, a year and a half later, use the Energizer lithium max batteries. They're expensive but in 3 years I've only seen 1 that leaked. You're completely spot-on about Duracell, I stopped buying them several years ago.

[@DennisMathias]

These are great for certain uses. But many of my applications is for instruments that are used occasionally. And the charged shelf life for these are not that great. Alkalines can last for years on the shelf. These will be dead in a month or two. I wonder if the DC>DC converter is dragging the cell voltage down? KInd of a leakage? What do you think?

[@roaling]

Hey man, found you from project air just this week and I'm interested in the absolute basics of autopilot. Where do I start and how do I keep on a reasonable budget? Is there an absolute beginner tutorial somewhere on the channel?

[@Painless360]

Loads of builds on the channel aimed at the new builder as well as videos aimed at explaining the basics - kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3LJf3ZrarqXq5I Best of luck

[@twofacepalmer1212]

Although a quicker charge is a nice convenience I'd rather have a longer lasting rechargeable battery... but that's just me. 😄

[@RedRouge-j4j]

I was waiting to hear how the capacity stacks up against alkaline batteries, and didn't! Given his usage it would be hard to quantify, other than "about the same". FWIW that would equate to 1700 to 2850 and compares favourably to the cells he is using. If the figures imprinted are realistic!

[@CuriousTech]

It's great that they're making these, and with a nice capacity. I still prefer using 14500 and 10440 Li-ion along with 3D printed dummy AA/AAA. You just need to be careful with the configuration. These are 4.2V fully charged, but something like a 3S device works at 4.5V+ down to ~3V, so 1 cell, 2 dummies is usually fine but can drain below the 3.6V that could kill it. 6S->2S, 8S->3S. For other cell counts, open the device and trace down the voltage regulator, look up the specs to figure out the voltage range. Many devices have a surprising amount of tolerance and are compatible with 1.8V lithium cells, so you can usually go slightly over.

[@Ray_of_Light62]

Guess why my collection of LW-AM-FM taschen radios won't like these batteries. Don't get me wrong - they are leaps and bounds above Ni-MH, Ni-Zn and RAM batteries, which I use in different applications. Especially RAM (Rechargeable Alkaline Manganese), which are meant to be left under permanent charge, which are a lost opportunity in my opinion, as they arrived too late to the mass market. They are the only solution to power radios, radio-controlled clocks and audio pre amplifiers. They don't suffer the SDS (Sudden Discharge Syndrome) of hybrid Ni-MH and don't generate the digital switching noise of the xStar et al. I believe it is possible to improve the XStar batteries down to 1 μVpp of switching noise with a filter, a screen and a symmetrical control chip, but this would be against the attitude of great convenience pursued by XStar Inc. Remember that on the market there are Joule Thiefs the size of a small diode.

[@davidfalconer8913]

Lithium Ion 3.7 Volt batteries are good ( I use ones salvaged from disposable vapes ... hundreds ! ) ... not only do they retain charge for months / years . but unlike Alkaline cells THEY DO NOT LEAK = ruining your device .. DAVE™🛑

[@g-whiz286]

What about self-discharge? That DC-DC converter is operating all the time.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Too bad they don't incorporate a twist switch to even shut that off too.

[@QuintinHowell]

For my general uses of remotes (TV, Xbox, etc), kitchen and bathroom scales, the NiMH seem to be a better experience, I don't think NiMH will be disappearing from shelves anytime soon. 1.5V LiPo is only really going to be better where devices don't function on 1.2V.

[@leszek1444]

regarding safety I prefer NiMH

[@gblargg]

I've reviewed a bunch of this style of battery and they have lower capacity (~1800mAh on ones I've tested) than high-capacity NiMH. You'll note how they state capacity in mWh, which is a higher number than mAh (mAh*1.5=mWh). I've mostly gotten the ones that use a special charger (basically just feeds it 5V), than those with a USB-C port since the port takes room and leaves less for the Li-ion cell inside. They are definitely great for products which don't like the lower voltage of NiMH. I have a handful of things that have this issue. One downside is there's no way to tell how charged it is, at least ones I've tried. The charger only knows whether it's charging or done. The low-battery warning by dropping voltage is nice.

[@Painless360]

I'm with you on the discharge curve. Copying a typical alkaline voltage drop as it discharges would allow for easier tracking of the charge level... Happy flying

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks for the review, Lee! 😊 And well, I'm kinda suspect to talk about this brand. I just love it! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@jlarson42]

I won a set of the AA batteries. They work well enough I was thinking about getting more, but wasn't sure. With your update video I feel more confident about purchasing more. 👍😎

[@Paxmax]

Good stuff! I have a Marantz multi functional media remote controller, it guzzles batteries, even in low power standby... and it is extra annoying if it runs the cells dry - it reverts back to default mode forgetting all setups all macros, superfrustrating.

[@owensmith7530]

I've been using Lithium Iron Disulphide AA and AAA cells from Energizer for over 20 years. Not rechargeable, but they're very lightweight and they last about 5 times longer than Alkalis. They start off at about 1.8V and are flat by the time they drop to 1.4V. And there is nothing in them to leak, no more manky battery compartments.

[@zodiacfml]

how quick China innovates. Several months ago, I was researching lithium with 1.5V output-everything has a USB port or they can't be charged ni-mh/nicd chargers. Now they have achieved the end game, a completely 1.5V battery that be charged with 1.5, ditching the USB ports. Too bad, this product too late for me. I've hacked all children toys with lithium or replaced low power devices that require 1.5V. I have an Oral B that requires two AA but I've improvised using 14500 lithium that I charge to max at 3.6V-the oral b brush now is more powerful with rechargeable lithium for cheap

[@miketrissel5494]

So then, don't use these in industrial, radio controlled cranes where when the logic crosses over the transmitters' logic threshold, they send out erratic signals, and send 20 ton cranes on a joyride down the rails

[@nosmokingnl]

Thanks for sharing your experiences. Li-ion cells do have more safety 'rules' compared to nimh batteries. What happens to Li-ion if they are below their low voltage, do they swell up and perhaps have a fire risk, like lipo's do? I can imagine having batteries in devices in a closet, long and forgotten.

[@bertbeinaaf8314]

Same question here

[@AerialWaviator]

When li-ion cells are left discharged (low energy state), reactions with in the electrolyte would cause capacity to degrade and continue to self discharge. Only issue would be trying to recharge, but these have an integrated circuit that would prevent that. (unlike RC Lipo batteries) If there is no energy, they are essentially inert. In terms of leakage, it should be much better than alkaline batteries that use the case as a conductor, holding the electrolyte so the metal can corrode over time (thus leak). Li-ion cell should be sealed in a mylar pouch, as the contain has DC-DC converter, LED, etc, so is not the actual cell case. Regarding fire risk, just don't throw them in a fire, or use in a way that overheats. Discharged, any risk should be low. For upkeep, I'd expect they'd need to be charge 1-4x per year, as they likely have a very small amount of self discharge. If discharged for more than a month, they may stop working.

[@Silor]

I've switched to a version with built in USB-C to get rid of proprietary cahrgers

[@mfgxl]

I will never buy those USB-C charging batteries again. I have a high failure rate at the built port on them.

[@51im]

Can you charge them like a normal li-po on a hobby charger to 4.2v or does the dc-dc converter interfere with the normal expected voltage reading and the charger would expect to to see a 1.5v max charge voltage.

[@quademasters249]

The battery label says 1.5v li compatible charger. So I'd guess the answer is no. I wonder if the inverter steps up the charge voltage too?

[@51im]

@@quademasters249 yeah I'm guessing that the charger is inputing 4.2v but looking for an output of 1.5-1.6v due to the step down dc-dc converter. Quite expensive for a set with a charger. I'll probably wait until the prices come down a bit.

[@EditioCastigata]

Xtar ET4S or BC4 charger goes for 5-7€. No need to splurge for the L4 or L8.

[@g.s.3389]

ca I use a standard niMh charger or do I need a special one?

[@Painless360]

You need the charger made for them... Happy flying

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Guess we need to buy all new chargers and power supplies.... Unless an NiMH charger can charge them? I noticed that the vast majority of USB chargers are very poor. Cannot find one that puts out as kazillion amps so I can charge more than one thing at a time. Most are limited to far less than 3amps. No excuse to make them that feeble...

[@richardwernst]

Slick, but bummer you can't just use good quality LiOn 4.7v chargers. I'd think the DC to DC converter could have a sensor(?) to bypass the conversion when charging.

[@WESDEANEMARTIN]

I don't know. These look really interesting, and I might buy some to fool around with, but I'm really hooked on the Eneloop batteries.

[@Drmcclung]

Thanks for the review & info. Been seriously considering replacing all my rechargables with li-ion as I am sick to death of nimh's advertised capacity in the real world ending up being a quarter at best, with a VERY very poor shelf life (three weeks at best fully charged before they're dead, regardless) making them completely useless in TV remotes, bedside flashlights and wall clocks. Advertised useful cycle count is probably about half what any of them advertise so.. Yeah, after watching this I'm finally gonna spend the money on some new li-ion AA/AAA batts

[@carholic-sz3qv]

what if you just converted the devices you have to lithium batteries and added a charging port to them?

[@tlebryk]

Thanks for the review. Uses a NOISY voltage converter that is always on, so no good for most radio applications. Wasting half the energy this way. Only 1000mAH. Would rather still use the 2600mAH eneloop pros which also store much longer.

[@rainer229]

I wonder how they handle very low power consumers like a keyboard or clock etc.. I can imagine that the active DC/DC converter draws more power then the powered device. I wonder can the battery hold up the voltage over weeks. Or does it even switch off if it thinks there is no consumer? I considering the battery for my wireless keyboard because I feel that the sending power is getting weaker if the battery goes flat. These would be perfect because they hold up 1.5V all the time.

[@Painless360]

I had a number of comments on the original video from users who had these batteries in lots of lower drain devices with good results... Happy flying

[@jaysonrees738]

Heck, I might get some so I can get the nice voltage and no more acid leaking all over my battery bays.

[@peetiegonzalez1845]

Aaaah now I get it. I have some of these in a remote weather monitor station and was frustrated with a seemingly reduced range despite the higher voltage. I thought the station itself was on its last legs but now I suspect it’s the RF noise. Back to Alkaline or Eneloop I guess.

[@yurialtunin9121]

I replaced 9 volt square batteries with LIPO about 3 years ago. Works well.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Would not trust them in a smoke or CO detector though. No low battery warning ...

[@tab_use]

Rech NI CAD more SAFE..