Painting 1/35 Panzer Tools and Accessories - 506 sPzAbt 1944

[@fidinboca]

Man...The tip of the paper for the tow cables...Make me feel: "doing it the hard way for 20 years when the easy way was 20 inches away."

[@dwarf_nz483]

Shows you just don't know what you don't know. Like you, years of doing it tough when there is such an elegantly simple solution that I just never even thought of...

[@fidinboca]

@@dwarf_nz483Exactly Dwarfnz.

[@andrewshaw8396]

The camouflage sprayed over the track cables not lining up is a stroke of genius - brilliant! Cheers.

[@RollingThunderModels]

This is why building soviet vehicles is so much easier haha, one shovel and a pickaxe and you're done haha. Great video my friend, this is the stuff i'm looking for when i'm building German armor!

[@ModelNerd]

Nice video. Great idea to use paper under the tools while painting them - a very nice little tip which I'll definitely be using. Thanks!

[@noqualitydioramas]

Good work!

[@Godstv518]

These videos are helping save a hulk Tiger 1 with many issues. All caused by me. Enjoying this series. Thanks for putting together.

[@erickirwan8703]

Hi Evan, great video👍 You say it wasn't very long because you didn't want to drag it out for those watching. Seriously, don't worry about that, we love your videos, and I for one, could watch them for hours. I've picked up so many great tips and techniques from your videos that I now use on my builds👍

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Eric :)

[@JuergenGDB]

In case people are inquiring on the sPz.Abt 506 unit insignia. the Insignia is of a Tiger and a Red and white shield. The "W" represents Major Gerhard Willing, the Battalion Commander of the 506. He had been in combat during the Spanish Civil War and would continue his career until he died in October 1943, 3 months after the formation of the unit. The "W" represents Major Gerhard Willing in Honor of his service and the love and respect of his men.

[@poonmig]

Been model making for years but only just got into military stuff. I find these tutorials really great, giving me something to aspire to. Thank you so much for sharing.

[@jerryvolpini7987]

Not only do you demonstrate your techniques but you explain the rationale for the colors you use - good stuff! 👍

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you!

[@dantimmerman6693]

Thanks for pointing out the brass. You recently noted it on fb and I saw it there first. I have since fixed some bits on a few kits.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you! Glad to have helped :)

[@Adrian-L3x4]

That’s why my RC Tiger got metal wheels... painted them dunkelGelb etc and then just drove it few times and paint went off on edges to this lovely metallic look 👌🏻👌🏻

[@cjkirkland2334]

Still looking forward to a tutorial or 2 on doing battle damage. Keep up the great work. You, Night Shift and Andy are my favorite.

[@pedroalbicastrense353]

Super tuto man 👍

[@ThrowawayModeller]

The new AK paints look awesome. I'll have to pester my local shop about getting them heh I love the small bits and corrections you make - way too many modellers don't show or mention it

[@Panzermeister36]

I do like the new AK paints :)

[@mikeymikeFType]

These are the markings of the Schwere Abteilung 506. The W is in memory of a former commander Gerhard Willing. I bought the Taigen 1/16th Tiger . Changed it to winter camouflage and bought these decals and a steel aerial. It looks ok ish. Kept changing my mind and altering things. Dusted it in snow(from precision ice and snow) ,looked really good until the wife thought it was amusing to run her finger across the turret..oh you’ve iced your tank. Oh how we laughed.☹️ So started over and it’s not quite what I wanted. I used black fire grate polish for the cables and part of the gun barrel. Wipe it back and leaves it with a slight metallic finish.Bit over worked now. I think the secret is knowing when to stop. Nice job👍

[@AlexModeling]

Amazing vídeo! Great reference! Loved those Jerry cans efects!

[@mirekrzepka9819]

Nice work on details, thanks for sharing, regards from Poland !

[@modellbaufreak307]

Very nice video thanks for showing

[@jamesmcdonald7342]

Awesome videos buddy . Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills

[@SmallSoldier]

Great video Evan. I love that AK steel colour it's very effective and looks like bare metal. The tiger is looking really good!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Scott :)

[@Android-rz8mb]

Awesome job !!!!!!

[@bigcharliesmodelgarage296]

Cool tips. Thanks for sharing

[@gaetamodeler]

Nice tutorial, thank for this!!!!👍

[@SCALEBENCHplasticmodels]

Hi Panzer Meister ... love your idea to paint the camouflage on top of the accessories ... great effect ... great work mate ... cheers Make*

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you!

[@SprueFascinationChannel]

Very nice work

[@HamilkarBarkasScaleModelling]

Looking really good buddy!

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you Michael!

[@ClemDayOutbackMiniModels]

Sweet Video really enjoyed watching. Happy Birthday too mate, hope it's a special one. Stay inside and sniff that Glue dude.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you!

[@WorthingtonModel]

Nice job it’s looking really good!

[@johnboy384]

Thanks Panzermeister. =)

[@GijsvIp]

Great!! your video really improved with the better lighting, looking forward to the weathering.

[@maxescamilla4597]

Nice video. Good tips, like the AK colors being brushable. They level out super nice. Also liked the paper trick under the cables in case you're a messy painter like myself. 😁

[@Panzermeister36]

Glad to help :) Thank you!

[@horsthopf3863]

Looks really Good.

[@BrailleScale]

Phew!! Thought you had forgotten the poor Tiger crew's bucket for a second 🤣 solid job, definitely your best build to date, great research and reference over on Facebook as well. Saw that. Keep it up! Now only 70 hours of chipping to go! 😜

[@BrailleScale]

...okay okay. I admit. I only say "your best build to date" because every other build has to have a disclaimer: "but it's not a Tiger". 🤣 But seriously. I do enjoy how you walk what I would consider to be a perfect balance between rivet counting accuracy and the artistic approach of telling the vehicles story through weathering. Really like the details like the scratches showing where the C shackles were and especially the camo paint over the tools.

[@Panzermeister36]

Thank you! Luckily I am lazy and spent only a couple of hours since I HS chipped the primer stuff and that's easy :D

[@davidedel31]

Found that painting the tools and cables before installing on tank is easier, then install on tank and then camouflage on tank. Remembered that tools coming off assembly line, then camouflage in the field, then tools weathered in field from all types of weather and battle.

[@Panzermeister36]

I've thought about that method but how would you deal with the tool clamps and such?

[@bubbapipe]

Ottawa?!...cool, a fellow Canadian eh..lol. great job it's looking really good. Thanks for sharing

[@JhettWltmn]

Hey man I'm a big fan

[@rickconnel532]

I missed the first videos of this build.But damn your good.

[@slawomirzawislak7385]

Fantastic job, great model. Am preparing to assembling Tiger I mid production... Your vid is very helpfull. P. S. Am using Vallejo gunmetal for painting tank tools - it is fault?

[@SanPistone]

Hello :) Uncle Nightshift said that you should enjoy that!

[@Panzermeister36]

I do! Thank you :)

[@SanPistone]

@@Panzermeister36 Just jocking, buddy. Nice work, I'd never though about the camo on the tools... Thanks for sharing!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

först

[@tlw4237]

Wire ropes. They are machines, and to do their job properly and safely the strands need to be able to slide over each other. Therefore they should be kept lubricated, so are unlikely to have paint stick to them - or even be painted in the first place - and not allowed to corrode significantly. If the strands can’t slide over each other the energy the rope stores as it stretches in use gets concentrated where the strands “stick” and the rope is then much more likely to break - and release all that energy by whipping around. The amount of energy a rope used to tow a tank stores up is likely to be huge so a snapping rope could be very dangerous to bystanders. Even a rope used to recover a 4x4 from deep mud or snow can do quite a bit of damage it it breaks and whips so with a tank attached to each end heaving away on it.... well I wouldn’t want to be in the way of that rope. Chains don’t store much if any energy so don’t have the same risks and problems. As for the arial bases, they were made of rubber because as the turret rotated the gun would hit a hull mounted arial, which therefore needed to be able to be pushed out of the way without breaking. So they used rubber base mounts. After Germany began to have a serious rubber shortage the mounts were made from steel but with the arial attached to a spring which still allowed the arial to be bent over by the gun barrel (source - Hilary Doyle in the Chieftain’s Pz IV video). Having to save even the small amount of rubber used in arial mounts might have made some Germans wonder if the war was maybe not going Germany’s way any more...

[@MottysMilitaryModels]

Wow.... We've found someone at last that was there and a Tiger crew member!!!!

[@tlw4237]

@@MottysMilitaryModels It’s called (1) understanding how to carry out safe vehicle recovery using winches and wire ropes and (2) being able to do historical research.

[@MottysMilitaryModels]

Oh right, you confused me that was all, I thought it was called Rivet Counting. My bad.

[@johnely]

But exposed brass tarnishes super fast. The barrel cleaning rods' brass would be a tarnished brown/barely gold color. Not bright brass like a shell case.

[@Panzermeister36]

It's likely not 100% brass, but it is a brass colour. Usually this stuff is a cheap alloy. Look and the reference photos on my Facebook page. There is are original examples that have sat for 75 years and are still shiny. They are original and not restored since they've on a captured tank the US put in storage in 1945 and haven't really touched since.

[@tednavarro9559]

Panzermiester where do you get youre reference photos ,im a beginner modeler an been following from my beginning .ted

[@krautreport202]

This model would have really profited from some metal cables. 🙊

[@hungryhank6044]

Very nice and informative video. When painting the tools and tow cables, for out in the field usage. Wouldn't there be a touch of rust here and there for effect? Take care!

[@Panzermeister36]

Maybe, but I usually don't apply rust to my models except for on the exhaust and stuff. Tanks did not last very long and are usually quite well maintained.

[@mikhielthorsson6033]

Hi there, Night Shift suggested your channel. I used to do a lot of modeling in tanks and airplanes when I was in high school. Now I do mainly Warhammer 40K Space Marine figures and vehicles. But have been thinking about getting back into tanks again. My question is about getting started using an airbrush. What's the best starter gear, airbrush, hose and compressor??

[@Panzermeister36]

Hey! I also used to do 40K like 8 years ago...and I have a Space Marines Predator to feature on the channel soon. I use a small single-tank Paasche compressor and a Badger 105 Patriot airbrush as my set up. That's fairly basic and still works great for me. I also have a detail airbrush too.

[@nathanc5778]

So you do hairspray chipping with a water-based acrylic? I always thought it only worked with a Tamiya acrylic.

[@Panzermeister36]

No, I will do it with Tamiya/AK Real Color paints when airbrushing. In this case I was just applying some paint by brush and chipping it a little to match.

[@MF-kv8cn]

i have a quite a few vallejo model and panzer aces colors, but im interested in the AK interactive 3rd gen. Are they better than vallejo model? and how are the ak metallics compared to vallejo model air?

[@Miguel-re2hv]

I'm not sure the tools should be painted with the camo pattern on them, since they were used all the time and in most of the cases even exchanged with other vehicles of the same Unit, for instance....

[@gruppenfuhrer45]

Dumb question but where did you get the bucket? Been looking for those. Awesome job!!!

[@Panzermeister36]

I think it's from ABER. It comes preformed. Either that or its from Dragon. I know I had one of each bucket but I forget which one I used here.

[@XxBloggs]

I have a photo of the wire cutters taken at the Bovington Tank Museum and it looks like the grips are bakerlite. If you’d like I can email you a close up photo.

[@Panzermeister36]

There are lots of photos of those. They are post-war East German examples. Also, I don't trust museum restorations since they're not accurate. Bovington also paints their fire extinguishers red, 1941 DAK production Pz II in 1940 France paint scheme, paint their British Caunter camouflages blue when they should be green, etc.

[@richarddewitt2072]

8:12 The fire extinguisher need a decal, where to find them?

[@Panzermeister36]

Not always. Plenty of photos I have seen show no sticker on the Tetra.

[@kairos1091]

Would the straps on the fire extinguisher be a leather color or did they paint over those as well in the factory?

[@Panzermeister36]

No, the straps are metal bands and they're part of the attachment to the hull.

[@mikeshea398]

Hey Panzermeister. Question. I have this model and the instructions give 2 options on the wheel arrangement. Which one is correct for this tank.

[@Panzermeister36]

Ah, I'll have to check. I asked some experts about it because I was not sure myself when I built this months ago. The bolts correspond to the month the tank was built.

[@Blueesteel_]

How did you do the zimmerit?

[@Panzermeister36]

It comes on the kit parts.

[@allanstott6999]

Hiya, hope you and family are well. Can I ask a question, with regards to oil filters and washes etc? Do you use oils on the tank before or after adding a distressed whitewash camo?

[@Panzermeister36]

I would probably apply weathering like you said before the winter camouflage if the white is going to be heavy worn. In that case a lot of the underlying paint will be shown in that case. But the white is not going to be worn I will not bother with doing weathering before the white since it's not going to be seen very much.

[@allanstott6999]

@@Panzermeister36 it will be heavily worn but I worry the hairspray and white will mess with the oil.

[@Panzermeister36]

I don't think it will cause issues. Just apply a satin varnish before you apply the hairspray and you will have a good surface to work on.

[@allanstott6999]

@@Panzermeister36 ah, thanks.

[@Xxxxxxxxxx3582]

Hi Evan, I’ve been looking through your Facebook and would like to ask you what mask do you use for paintball and how do you avoid fog in your glasses? Thanks in advance, Angel

[@Panzermeister36]

I use a V-Force Profiler/Profit (?) not sure exactly what the name is. I just keep moving and I don't fog up! Also helps that the weather here is often mild.

[@Xxxxxxxxxx3582]

Panzermeister36 Thanks Evan

[@jamessteale805]

How do the new AK acrylics compare to Model Color or Model Air?

[@Panzermeister36]

They seem similar, but I've tested the new AK paints and they are more durable when dry so you don't need a varnish. The new AK ones also airbrush very well.

[@jamessteale805]

Panzermeister36 Thank you. Do you have experience with hand brushing Model Air? Tried brushing USAF Light Grey and it had almost no coverage. It took 6-7 thinned (6 paint: 1 water) coats before it looked opaque and ok

[@Panzermeister36]

No, I think I've just used Model Color for brushing. Sorry I didn't clarify that at first.

[@jamessteale805]

Panzermeister36 Thanks. Have you used Model Air for airbrushing then? Would you recommend using water to thin it, or Vallejo’s thinner? Sorry for all the questions

[@mikeshea398]

what kit number is this????

[@Panzermeister36]

It's Dragon 6383.

[@mikeshea398]

@@Panzermeister36 Thank You!

[@alpteknbaser7773]

2pw

[@der_fuxs]

Ja ja clicken Sie hier😄