Paints you SHOULD buy (and some to avoid)

[@BroadswordWargaming]

What paints do you recommend? Ones you just can't paint without. I'd love to get a little list together and try them out! 😀

[@JakeDogg-RIP]

Ciaras Bag-Paints are a must! 😉😂🥰🍻❤️

[@ArgoArgus]

AK Tenebrous Grey AV Model Japanese Uniform AV Model Dark Sea Blue AV Model Pastel Green AV Nocturna Highlight Skin AV Nocturna Base Flesh Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White (Best white there is after Golden Titanium White) S75 Gobi Brown SA75 Light Skin SA75 Raw Umber SA75 Burnt Sienna Umber

[@philhitchings]

A mix of ork and plague bearer works for me.

[@BenSilber]

Pro Acryl Metallics are so far beyond anything else I've used (aside from the Vallejo Metal Color which I havent tried yet) that it's not even funny.

[@MrAndyPuppy]

Pro Acryl - Bold Titanium White - Red Grey - Dark Plum - Tan Flesh Army Painter - Necromancer Cloak - Speedpaint - Ochre Clay (favorite for bases) - Speedpaint - Brownish Decay or Desolate Brown - Speedpaint - Slaughter Red - Speedpaint - Charming Chartreuse (easiest orc skin ever) - Air Color - Phantasmal Blue Citadel - Contrast - Garaghak's Sewer - Contrast - Dark Oath Flesh Scale75 - Black (SC-00) - Prism Effect - Boreal Beetle Reaper - Toasted Marshmallow (favorite for whites of eyes) AV - Game Color - Ghost Grey Cuttlefish Colors - Poor Boy Denim - Tainted Snow - Ghoul Flesh Darkstar Molten Metals - Aged Copper - Blackened Bronze Two Thin Coats (as a triad): - Scorched Earth - Ancient Forest - Wasteland Brown P3 - Molten Bronze - Blighted Gold

[@ThePKMNTrainerChris]

Bold Titanium white by Pro Acryl is the best white paint ive ever seen. covers really well even over black

[@thalkan]

Agreed - That is an absolutely absurd white paint. I think people throw the term 'game changer' around a little too easily these days, but this is one of the few times where it really applies imo.

[@2guys1cliplol]

Yeah it covers really well. It replaced AP matte white for me

[@knightofcaliban146]

I second this.

[@dk292]

God tier paint! bold titanium white is magic.

[@stingray4567]

Yes. This is the "correct" white

[@darrenmchaffie553]

I'll be gradually replacing my current Citadel paints where possible with Two Thin Coats versions instead. Find its consistency better, already in dropper bottles, and handy with a wet pallet.

[@philhitchings]

Just got my hands on wave 2. Great paints

[@KelRiever]

I do love this channel, and I do understand videos like this because people both want to know and I imagine it gets the hits. BUT, and I post something like this every time I see a painting recommendation video, I hate it because popular streamers such as yourselves pretty much ensure that the paints recommended get sold out of every hobby store in existance. While there is nothing wrong with these recommendations, I would encourage people to experiment and that is the secret to discovering new good things. As an artist, you can make even the most unwanted paints for our hobby work, and your local game store will appreciate your purchase of whatever gold they have, for example, even if they don't have the one recommended on the rack :)

[@miket2789]

Vallejo air aluminium covers with one coat like a DREAM

[@pwwillia]

Pro Acryl magenta - just always seem to use it, even as a little bit throughout a model. gives it a nice deep warmth.

[@mordecaitoth6703]

Runic Grey speedpaint is a go to for me. It is a cool blue-grey that is excellent for shading, glazing and mixing.

[@Alberto-hs9pi]

I have used Ice yellow a lot lately for my warm stones, and i have to say, its a freaking miracle of the universe, super usefull, super good for drybrushing, or mixing, or whatever you may want, if im painting contrast, its Wraithbone base, then Ice Yellow drybrush, and it does so much for me, it speed up everything so much, its just perfect. Would like to try DD Rust, but its very hard to find on my area.

[@rickohanlon3370]

Good list really. Would add: Bold Titanium White from Pro Acryl Tire Black from Secret Weapon (if you can still get hold of it) Game Air Silver from Vallejo (or any of their Metal Colour range) Necro Gold from S75 And an honourable mention to the now retired GW Gloss washes. Minimal surface staining, maximum recess shading cos of the Gloss medium, finish with a matt varnish 👌

[@BarrySheppard]

I bought every Tire Black, Rubber, and Rubber Highlight I could find when I heard SW were going out of business. I wasn't willing to live without them XD

[@2WARDEN2]

Big ditto on Necro Gold and Game Air Silver. Majestic paints.

[@Spidiculous]

All of the Pro-acryl line is 11/10. Vallejo Xpress is the best contrast as well.

[@psyko2666]

Of course: Pale Sand from Vallejo, its just so flexible and useful. This one is for airbush, but Tamiya XF-2 Flat White. It needs its own thinner, but you'll always get smooth white with no texture and can layer it up easy.

[@swarliusgamerus640]

I love Rakarth, use it for loads of stuff: skin, cream, bone, Death Guard armour. Its so good, most washes or contrasts on it give it so much variety

[@stujm84]

The Vallejo Metal Colour range has to be the best metallic range out there. No need to thin, amazing coverage. Just amazing. Rakarth Flesh saved me from the punishment that is using wraithbone for purity seals. For which I'll forever be grateful

[@mirage809]

One of my secret weapon paints is Nihilakh Oxide. It's meant to create verdigris effects on brass and copper, but it's also really good for ghosts, energy and stuff like that. Throw it over white like it's a contrast or wash, drybrush some white and you got spooky looking stuff for days. Necron Compound is also a paint I cannot live without. It's a must have for anyone that does large metal machines. And not a paint, but equally handy and useful: Micro Sol. Makes decals look great and painted on with no effort at all.

[@OrakelofDeath]

For Metallics I use Scale 75 "Metal'n'Alchemy"-Line. (And the Rest is the old Vallejo Game Color Range in my Collection, which is of the greatest Use. So: Just now I'm trying to find out, what might be good replacements for some of the Colours, which aren't part of the new Line any more.)

[@fleboy8618]

My go to paints I use on every model are German uniform grey for painting black because it is dark enough to count as black but you can shade it with a dark wash, and pale sand for highlighting any colour to avoid chaulky finish when highlighting with white, also apothecary white contrast paint mixed with airbrush thinner to shade white fabric - perfect every time. Thanks for the video, might try them out myself 👍

[@jesevans5258]

I use the ork flesh as a recess shadow over more olive color greens if they aren't quite dark enough after highlights, but honestly that's about it, I've tried it for many other things and have ended up stripping or just painting over, great video though, glad I've found yall!

[@MikeKoopmans1984]

Two colours/paints I absolutely love are Citadel Contrast Aethermatic Blue and Army Painter Hardened Leather. The first is great for all sorts of magic effects and swirls, but also on metal to create a wonderful power weapon look. And the second is great for leather (duh) but also as a layer on silver/metal to get a lovely gold/bronze.

[@chubaxco]

Metallics from Vallejo Game Air are the Best. They cover extremely well and even with just a couple of drops. I don't use Airbrush but I use them all the time

[@2WARDEN2]

I use their silver with my brush and it's insane how smooth it is and how good that coverage is. Absolutely unreal.

[@torros1839]

Beige Brown by Vallejo is a lovely mid Brown and Vallejo Deck Tan is a perfect white for 6 and 10mm miniatures. Winsor and Newton Nut brown ink is prefect for washes on 6mm figures

[@tim_kenyon]

I do/have/continue to use Vallejo’s Xpress Orc Skin colour, but not as Orc Skin. It does really well for a one coat bright green plasma coil colour over white or bone and can be embellished with the next two greens down (I think it’s Troll Green and Lizard Green) to deepen up the effect. Same goes for eye lenses. Plague Green (same range) also works pretty well.

[@mmacmartin]

Skeleton Horde is my #1 use on pretty much every model paint. Bone, but also off-white cloths, purity seals, ropes are a breeze with it, just a lot of details that you want slightly beige with a brown tinge just happen with it. Wyldwood is another one I use quite a lot, but more for darkening things down in a way that isn't black. So I use it for mud, dark woods, sometimes I panel line with it. It's just a great dark brown for when you want the contrast effect.

[@jamesjacobsmeyer72]

I’ve really taken to Gryph-Charger Grey Contrast paint. Really satisfying coverage and nice cool grey. Used it for the main armor plates of my Tau infantry.

[@lifeinjersey9846]

That Screaming Skull and Skeleton Horde mix for bones is amazing!!! I can't believe I never thought of it before. Thank you!

[@oldschoolfrp2326]

Good tips, some new to me. 2 of my favorite paints with uses that don’t match the label: Vallejo German Grey for black rubber tires, black leather, other “off-black” things with a dull weathered hue. Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh for white linen or as a base for any other white cloth uniforms or apparel. White is now the easiest uniform color to paint for me, instead of one of the hardest. PWF is particularly bad about gumming up and crusting around the lid, but frequent additions of matte medium + water and a minute on the vortex mixer keeps it smooth.

[@Lord_Evidar]

If you're looking for good ork flesh and want something that's not hulk green, I've found the best way to be what follows. Over a light grey/white base coat apply Plaguebearer Flesh contrast. This is a very yellow tinted green. Once it's dry apply a wash of Biel-Tan Green (or similar.) This will tint the skin to a more greenish colour but leave the yellow/green as the highlights. It's quick, easy and works perfectly for that right tone of Orkish green.

[@alvarlopez522]

It's the same combination that I use on my Orks, also you can use mantis warriors green instead plaguebearers flesh, it's a great combination too

[@JoeHardacre]

Exhaust manifold from Vallejo air metal range. Its super thin as its an airpaint but its almost leadbelcher and nuln oil in one. Its basically magic in a bottle.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

That sounds pretty darned useful. I'll make sure to try that out. Lots of recommendations for the vallejo metal stuff! Thanks. 😀

[@jamiecourtemanche4495]

Since came out I love using Skeleton Horde (50/50 mix with Contrast medium) over Wraithbone for my Deathwing models. Also been using Black Legion for my HH Dark Angels figures. Plus any black metal armor. Just so easy to use and covers well.

[@Nigelius]

Garagakhs sewer is good as a quick base for very passable rusty/grimey/ancient metal if you put it over a greyscale/slap chop base. Just a touch up with some mournfang brown and a few metallic scrapes with lead belcher and it looks great.

[@nikolaosalexandroskaloumen1693]

Thank you so much for this video. One of the most useful “buy suggestion” videos out there with concrete examples as to why!

[@BroadswordWargaming]

Very welcome! 😀

[@skylerjelly8116]

I'm a fellow Ice Yellow enjoyer, and I mostly use it for a base layer for green glow effects to give a slightly warmer hue than if I went with white. I also love Garaghak's Sewer and use it for dirty rags/cloth/leather, especially for my Clan Rats. It has such interesting colours it brings out compared to some of the other staple browns which are a bit more one note. Going to take the tin colour for a spin, I've been looking to level up my copper game.

[@farpointgamingdirect]

For that Ork Flesh Contrast, you really need to lay it over a zenithal prime. Afterwards, go over with a yellow glaze to knock back some of that green. Works great!

[@Valandar2]

Honestly... Retributor Armor is a moderately okay gold. You want a GOOD gold, use Vallejo Metal Color (not Model Color) gold.

[@derekgarcia3069]

Vince Venturella has a gold recipe that uses this, plus the bronze and GSW Old Gold metallic pigment that looks amazing and goes on like a dream. Actually, all the Metal Colors go on incredible. Probably the best base coat metallics you can get if you have a decently large surface to cover

[@DWEthronil]

As someone who painted a good share of SCE i second that recommendation of the Vallejo Color

[@marving.8868]

The Army Painter Fanatic line is fantastic in my opinion you don't have to go back to the paint as often and keep on painting in my experience. So if the colour matches my previous I'd nearly always chose the army painter one. And to get good white shadows either apothecary white contrast paint or vallejo xpress color templar white their are virtually the same. And then just pick the panels out with white again it works wonders

[@Wijkert]

In no particular order when it comes to how much I like the; mostly based on how often I use them - Signal Black (Molotow) as my preferred primer through the airbrush; has a slight brown bias, which is useful for painting warm colors - An artist white ink (any brand will do, but have been using Royal Talens Amsterdam lately) - Rhinox Hide (Citadel); unique dark brown with a purple undertone - Metal Color Steel (basically any silver from Vallejo’s Metal Color range is great) - Decayed Metal (Scale75); beautiful dark gold metal paint - Burnt Umber (PBr7) oil paint for making washes (any artist grade will do) - AK’s 3rd gen Black - Brown ink OOP (Citadel); best looking wood color I have come across - Inktense Wood (Scale75); for painting a more yellowish wood - Sombre Grey (Vallejo Game Color); great rather unique grey with a violet undertone; close to Payne’s Grey, but very opaque - Chestnut Ink OOP (Citadel); really like orange-brown tones in general; Vallejo Skin Wash ink is also great and more importantly, still available - Kimera’s The Red and Magenta - Black ink (Vallejo); preferred for airbrushing because of it satin instead of glossy finish of other inks; usually mixed into other paints - Earth (Vallejo Game Color); great for painting weathered bone, glazed over a zenthinal undercoat; also great as a base color for desaturated leather - Agrax Earthshade (Citadel); mainly used for bases; also like (a thinned down) Wildwood, which is quite similar, but a little less dark when in the same consistency as Agrax - Nathol Crimson ink (Liquitex); favorite transparent red paint; it’s on the colder side, without leaning towards magenta - Yellow Orange Azo ink (Liquitex); favorite transparent warm yellow paint, that might look more neutral (and not specifically warm) depending on the undershade - AK terrains Muddy ground; lovely texture paint; just don’t slap in on too thick, because you will get a weird texture - In general using Liquitex artist ink and Citadel Contrast paints a lot; I like almost all of them

[@LordSquee]

I like Retributor Armour and Fyreslayer Flesh for a nice antique and rosy gold colour. Also Plaguebearer Flesh and then Biel-Tan Green makes for wicked orc flesh.

[@willvincent4829]

Black Legion is my fav use it for my home brew Blood angels successor chapter over a base layer of Mechanicum Grey creates a lovely light black that's super easy to then go in and highlight later

[@seangreenwood718]

Glad to see someone else showing the love for Tinny Tin! Awesome paint.

[@garyryden3873]

Moot green is great from citadel and I rather enjoy incubi darkness from citadel as well. Doombull Brown is a great warm brown tone and rhinox hide is a great deep and dark brown/purple (also from citadel). Liquitex High Gloss Varnish is amazing to bring out more depth to your colors. And I rather enjoy color shifters mixed with chameleon flakes for some fun shifting Nebulas.

[@benduston]

I use vallejo ghost grey for almost all my whites nowadays. Love it

[@calebritywriter]

I personally really like Ork Flesh (and other orky contrast alternatives) over a gray undercoat. It really helps tone down the intensity to something a bit more natural. Totally agree that over white it looks terrible though. I also absolutely love the Hardened Leather speedpaint, and I use it in just about everything I paint.

[@briandowling8412]

Garaghak sewer is great for painting dark horses quickly.

[@spimnyborg]

I love the Contrast Ork Flesh. But never by itself. I use the Ork Flesh thinned a bit on top of both zenithal and then a thinned Contrast yellow. Two paints instead of just one but I really like the result. And very repeatable for units. The bit of translucent yellow underneath brightens and warms it up nicely.

[@camy252camy3]

Pro-acryls Bold Titanium White, Black Legion, Vallejo Model Air Chrome, Daler Roweny White Ink are all my absolute go-tos that I couldn't live without.

[@quakeSanchez]

Green from Army Painter Speedpaint starter set comes in handy if you want some really bright and cartoony grots (and you don't mind them not being Goblin Green). Ork Skin from Scale75 (Fantazy&Games line) is not a bad colour to paint Salamander Space Marine armor.

[@bretts2356]

Ork Flesh gets used as part of my Necron Blades blend along with Tesseract Glow and Dark Angels Green . Could maybe be used for Salamanders too.

[@toogreytogame]

Ork flesh over silver gives a good emerald. I use both Black Templar and Black Legion: BT great for old faded black cloth, BL great for blocking in gun casings etc.

[@thisoldwarhammer]

I could not agree more with Vallejo ice yellow and tinny tin... they are both surprisingly handy paints...

[@kendo5862]

2:06 ... that slightly angled top gave me conniptions about a gunked-up hinge! 😂

[@isisnmagic1812]

Dirty down all three are magic in a bottle, love them. Love mixing ice yellow into blue and army paints metallics are my go too, tinny tin brassy brass and glorious gold to mention just a few , but rough iron for the best wrought iron look ever.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

I honestly don't know how dirty down work, but they're sooo good!

[@isisnmagic1812]

@@BroadswordWargaming artis opus did a video on all three dirty down bottles if you haven't seen it yet.

[@maxdavidson2883]

Pro Acryl White Blue, I never use (ok maybe for a tiny spot highlight) straight white now with Ice Yellow for warmer tones.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

Pro acryl is so popular, I must try it all out. 😀

[@necaacen]

ak 3rd gen grimy grey, such a nice coverage and consistency.

[@alistairmacrae4993]

My favourite gold is green stuff world antique gold pigment mixed with Vallejo metal varnish. It’s so reflective and the best coverage you can get.

[@dmytro_malyk]

contrast imperial fist - amazing yellow paint

[@MrEthicsgradient]

Hurrah! I’m not the only one who uses Retributor Armour and flesh contrast combo! I came across it by accident when I mistook the contrast pot for my Reikland Flesh and never looked back. Wonder how that Orkhide contrast would look over a coloured base like Zandri dust, or that Ice Yellow? Worst paint for me would be any white produced by GW.

[@spacejim12]

I'll add Evil Chrome from Army Painter, which I always use for goldy-metal details on every Chaos SM miniatures!

[@Gornodd]

My Recipe for very realistic heavy hardened Gold on something like Stormcast/Custodes.. Basecoat with Rhinox Hide. Drybrush with Decayed Metal (Sclae75) and give it a controlled drybrush Drybrush it with Necro Gold (Sclae 75) on. Then Pinwash the deepest recesses with Reikland. Last use Elven Gold (Scale 75) for the most prominent edges

[@necpwnz]

- Vallejo Metal Color (airbrush colors). I use it with brush - flows perfectly, covers in almost one coat. Best metallic paints, period. - Liquitex acrylic (!!!) inks carbon black and titanium white. After priming mini, I just add droplets of white to black in airbrush cup, making gradual grey zenithal with almost zero effort. - Enamel or oil brownish and/or black washes. HAVE NO FEAR - they are not complex at all! Bath miniature in it, and you could effortlessly remove highlight areas with sponge with a lot of time to correct any mistakes. - Pigments (dry) to "blend" miniature to base and give some effect to miniature itself. Personally I love vallejos but they are no differ than any dirty cheap brand. - AK 3rd gen black, white, reds, blues. Ultra matt, awesome coverage. - Vallejo Effects series dry rust + rust combo (similar to typhus corrosion and ryza rust). Go-to easy recipe for heavy rusted areas. - Citadel doombull brown, mournfang brown, rhinox hide. Amazing saturated browns (which a lot of acrylic manufacturers missing).

[@adammoore251]

Ork player here. I love Ork Flesh especially over a zenethal highlighted with moot green working it's way up to yellow. Gives my Boyz a toonish vibe. Snakebite leather is a must and Evil Sunz Red is one of the best reds in the business.

[@derekgarcia3069]

The Dirty Down paints are extremely high on my wishlist. Another staple i want try is the Model Color Air Silver from Vallejo. Seems to be the go-to for edge highlights and battle danage/scratches.

[@lolpwndk]

Agreed with the ork flesh colors, except for the Vallejo xpress one, that one is perfect!

[@anthonyfisher337]

This is a really good list, and Ice Yellow is high on my own go to for highlights. Incubi Darkness is my go to shadow, and Vallejo Hull Red is a nice earthy environmental.

[@somecheese]

Rakarth Flesh is absolutely one of my favourites too - I especially like using it for lightening other colours, like purple.

[@adameastment]

I won't lie, with Ork Flesh I will typically put it over a lighter/pastel green rather than over a white base. Dulling it down works, I typically never use Contrasts/Speed paint/Xpress over a pure white undercoat - I prefer the highlight to be a shade of the same colour rather than just a saturated version. Each to their own I know, but those highly saturated colours aren't for everyone but many ways to swing a cat!

[@zulkhaireesulaiman8575]

absolutely love this video! it's very much a subjective video but at the same time it kinda brings out your personalities. and it strikes up a good conversation. thank you!

[@matthewbull3688]

Thanks for these recipes! The result look great!

[@joshmortimer3433]

Retributor Armour, Pallid Wych Flesh, Gorthor Brown, Skavenblight Dinge, Leadbelcher, - as ever thanks for the video.

[@Endocrine77]

I paint quite a lot of blue, so I really like Scalecolour Navy blue and Arianrhod blue. My always go to was P3 merideus blue and arcane blue but it's really hard to get P3 paints these days unfortunately.

[@Endocrine77]

Also Vallejo dark sea blue and sombre grey for a blue grey.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

I've only dabbled with p3, but I'd love to try more. Guess it's time!

[@scottgraham586]

The orc flesh does have it's uses, It was perfect for the Battle Cat and Cringer Miniatures from the He-Man and the Masters of the Universe Boardgames (both the US one and the UK/EU Battlegrounds have fantastic models). I really need to get that Rust effect though...

[@guppyshark1375]

Re: Orc Skin, the Army Painter version is the base colour for my astartes, it's a nice bold and bright green that perhaps harkens back to the glory days of Goblin Green basing.

[@lion9f452]

Screaming Skull + Skeleton Horde is just 💯 Will definitely check out Tinny tin. Looks great

[@howardcoates6985]

not as a favorite, but i would like to see a 'How to use" video for the the moss paint from dirty down sometime. my favorites vary depending what i am working on.. currently liking the AK interactive shades set a lot.

[@StriketheRunes]

I own a fair few of these and I second everything you’ve said on them. Rhinox Hide from Citadel is definitely one of my favourites, I find a reason to use it on almost every mini I paint. That Mega Gargant’s beard is incredible! I need to know how you painted it, that’s up there with the best red hair I’ve ever seen on a mini

[@simonleach6632]

Vallejo model colour deck tan. Don't bother with white, slap that stuff down as a base coat and save your proper white for highlights, it covers way better and lets you get a more weathered looking white with very little effort, plus it's perfect for painting on unit markings/rank insignia/kill marks, anything like that. AK 3rd gen grimey grey works too, but Vallejo deck tan has better coverage

[@fionaonline]

Good to see Garaghak's getting its due, its my go too for dark leather now

[@BroadswordWargaming]

We are trying with it. Surprised by it lately :)

[@firebot779]

Not a 40k tip but, ork skin is useful for battletech in terms of getting that liao green. The ice yellow looks like a keeper in terms for blending ngl

[@bryanscott8528]

Some top picks: 1) Bold Titanium White / Coal Black from Pro Acryl 2) The entirety of the Vallejho metal colors series (a game changer for metallics) 3) Decayed Metal S75 4) Opaque White Medea Com Art 5) Brown Rose, Sickly Pink, Purple AK Gen3

[@BroadswordWargaming]

Thanks for that! Vallejo metal seems to be really popular, so I'll have to try those out! My bro loves decayed metal, but I haven't tried it. 😀

[@bryanscott8528]

@@BroadswordWargaming decayed metal is the truth! Both for working-up copper and gold it does it all!

[@ghazevedo]

Tinny tin is really underestimated. Great base for warm TMM.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

It's honestly so good. I really love whacking the dirt down verdigris on top too. 😀

[@barrygavin749]

Just looked for ice yellow on the shops website. 😩 I need that cooler it’s just such a great all rounder

[@tamator7651]

Ork flesh? That's my base coat for salamanders. A real secret weapon in my humble opinion.

[@ΓΙΑΝΝΗΣΓΙΑΛΙΔΗΣ]

Thanks for the tips ! A nice video ! 🙂 Wish you the best !

[@brucehemming9749]

Great video thanks for sharing your thoughts on the paints, w here I live I only have high street access to CitadelColour so any other colours I have to Order online so professional advice and opinions greatly helps me save money avoid crap paints and invest in great paints.🍻👍

[@durzod2052]

There is one good use for Orc Flesh I've found. It's a really good choice for painting the facing colors on the Joseph Napoleon Regiment in the Napoleonic wars. For actual orc/ork flesh I've never found a better paint than Seminole Green craft paint. Go figger.

[@phoen31]

i want to try that Retributor/Guillamin combo

[@2guys1cliplol]

I miss the citadel washes before they changed them recently. Its hard finding a good replacements My favorite citadel paits are zandri dust and old nuln oil and angrax

[@2WARDEN2]

ProAcryl washes are like better versions of the good citadel ones before the change. Honestly all ProAcryl stuff is amazing, I've been switching to them for most everything now!

[@beowulfjast]

I never knew about Targor Rageshade, but after watching this, I think it's exactly what I need!

[@eatingpancakesrightnow2786]

You can kind of see how they expected you to have the demon hammer by that sync kill

[@richardellis4583]

For ork flesh I really like plaguebearer flesh contrast with beil tan shade over the top once dried. I found it on a KZbin video but it pops. If the point of orks is the green skin, it makes it a feature.

[@autoclock8650]

The thought of a radioactive ork is an excellent idea, I think. lol

[@kgoblin5084]

Well, all my real gotos tend to be crafts paints, TBH. Possibly because since they're so cheap I'm not afraid to use them in abundance. * I use a LOT of Folk Art Berry Wine & Apple Barrel Ivy Green as undercoats, on nearly every model. I will also use navy blue craftspaint in the same way, but am generally not as happy with it since it blends in too much. * Folk Art Color Shift Black Flash metallic is just great as a general metallic undercoat, it's black as a metallic. The rest of the Folk Art Color Shift range is interesting as well, to various & sundry degrees, Silver Flash is a really good drop-in replacement for generic silver, Green Flash just looks cool as hell, Orange Flash looks cool but also does really interesting things with blends, for some cool bronze effects. * Glaze medium - I just like how paint with this mixed in handles. * Craftsmart Dark Yellow - Just a good, reliable, cheap yellow. Great for all kinds of blends, great as an alternative to white for zenithal style drybrush; great as an undercoat for bone/cloth, or anything a brighter yellow. But my real killer app is actually stone, dark wash over yellow actually comes out looking fairly gray. I'll even do a variation on the black magic craft mod podge base coat, using dark yellow instead * I'm also a big fan of Folk Art Linen.. but it comes with a huge caveat. The color is absolutely amazing, great for paper, cloth, highlights, & does interesting things in blends (add dark brown & it looks like a dark bluish gray - amazing for rocks!), but the stuff is just super damn thick... really annoying with miniatures.

[@MoleMantle]

I love Garaghak's Sewer with some water/medium over metals as a mix of a black and brown wash to make it look "dirty". Edit - it really does need thinning though or it just goes very brown like you showed!

[@danielflood4321]

Metal Colour Dark Aluminium and jet Exhausts. Golden High Flow Titanium White and Carbon Black. The Armour Wash mix from Rob Paints Model's KZbin Channel

[@RobMueller84]

With Orc flesh, try mantis warrior green contrast over the top. I have a limited selection (due to budget) and tried it over army painter orc skin and it worked out well. (Or at least better than just orc skin as I agree the colour does not suit orc skin)

[@mrsaturday1]

Really informative video folks. Some are old favourites, and some I’d not heard of. Dirty Down Rust? Ooo. Do you stock Dirty Down? I’d love to try them. Keep cracking out the videos guys, you’re a stalwart of hobby inspiration, great to have ye in the West of Ireland.

[@BroadswordWargaming]

Aw, thanks! Yead, we do stock dirty down. Rust, verdigris, and moss. I 100% recommend them (as does Ciara). Takes a while to get used to, but it's top quality. 😀

[@mrsaturday1]

@@BroadswordWargaming Great. I love weathering products! I’ll pick some up next time I’m up or browsing the online store.

[@chiefchurpa5739]

ive been meaning to pick up some of tht dirty down rust, looks sweet

[@PrincessKushana]

Great list, strong agree on so many of these. Call out for my best boy : Dark Stone by army painter. Incredibly useful muted dark brown.

[@rogthepirate4593]

Treated myself to the entire new Vallejo Game Color acrylics and express paint ranges at the beginning of the year. Best decision I ever made. They're fairly similar to ProAcryl in consistency and finish (as they also separate in the same way on the wet palette I think they use a similar gel medium), but with a much wider color range and at a lower price. Save for a few washes, I am now pretty much completely painting without Citadel and their stupid overpriced paint pots, and thank god.

[@EdisonTheFox]

Wait... Vallejo Tinny Tin is JUST like Tin Bitz from the old Citadel set! I've been hunting for a replacement since the switch!

[@GHOSTstryker]

Any thoughts on Army Painter speed paint 2.0

[@BroadswordWargaming]

I quite like it. I have all of the contrasts and army painter, and have started using the AP a little more now. Nice to have variety. Both are very good really. 😀

[@chrisbarrett3062]

Rakarth flesh is so good as a person that does not prefer GW paints. Good original flesh tone.