Part 8.5 ULTIMATE Voron 2.4R2 Build Gantry Check and Square!

[@oscarvogel2140]

I put the little rubber nubs/stops that came with the linear rails, in the empty Z-axis linear rail holes. Same level all around so the gantry would sit level on them and not move while I was playing around. Mine was so willy wonky that I had to loosen the 4 screws (each side) on the linear rails to get both sides to hit at the same time. I remember wondering where the rear extrusion was supposed to sit, width wise. Well that width is set right, when the gantry slides right. It slides so smooth now, thanks.

[@BuildItBasement]

Most of the plastic pieces also have "stops" in them so the extrusion can rest against it.

[@BradTN7]

Best video ive seen on racking and de racking

[@BuildItBasement]

You'll actually need to do the same procedure once the tool head is installed.

[@uosdwishpoom]

Like the hold and tap tip!!! Thanks again for sharing your learnings and great build tips!

[@BuildItBasement]

Keep in mind that you may need to re-square things once you mount your tool head! (But that video hasn't been made yet...)

[@MrTuffen]

I see you fix't your titanium backers! :) Thanks again for another great vid!

[@BuildItBasement]

Hey - Thanks again! I wouldn't leave them wrong! I actually forgot to mention that! I'll mention you in the next video for the correction!

[@MrTuffen]

@@BuildItBasement Thats awsome! :) Love how the build is turning out!

[@BuildItBasement]

Thanks. Just wait until it's complete with lighting and custom panels! It'll also be connected to my Home Assistant platform so I will be able to automate things based on printer status. But I haven't said that on video yet and only about 2% of people read the comments, so...

[@MrTuffen]

@@BuildItBasement God damn it! This sound so freaking awesome! I need to level up my own build now! God damn you! :D Gonna find a way to send you a pic from mine when I am done whit it! I just hope I am gonna get in the ballpark of the coolness of yours!

[@DYCKnights]

Can we do same process if belts are already ran?

[@BuildItBasement]

100% - *BUT* you will need to make sure they are loose and not terminated at the toolhead. I would also say that once you get the belts run and terminated you do the same treatment and adjust the tension of the belts on either side to ensure equal tension. Great question - Totally understand not wanting to run those belts more than you have to!

[@DYCKnights]

@@BuildItBasement Thanks for the quick response. looks like my bottom belt isn't tight enough anyways haha.

[@BuildItBasement]

@@DYCKnights You'll get a feel for it. I keep my belts "mid" some run loose so they can go faster - others tighter so they get slightly more precision. These belts are pretty long so they will always feel looser than those of the "z" drives.

[@jordanamundsen9335]

I am currently at this stage in my build but it’s a v2.4r2 350mm. I took measurement across the back of the printer and then moved the x to the rear and took measurements in the front. My rear measurement was just a little bigger in the rear, gave a little pressure and tightened a/b drive. And measurement is good. I wasn’t getting really smooth movement once I push gantry all the way to the back but if I loosen the 4 screws into the left linear rail movement was smooth entire time. Also I have smashed into the plastic on those 2 of the 4 of those screws on outer side of y linear rail. Anything you can think of I might need to check? I did clean and lube bearing with Mobilux EP 1, EP Grease, NLGI 1. It’s pretty thick but thanks for the videos! And ones last thing with the titanium backer, does it matter where it gets put? I thought it went on opposite side of linear rail? TIA

[@BuildItBasement]

I would confirm that your gantry is level within a mm or two. If not, your fighting a losing battle. Level it out first. Did you confirm that your printer frame is square? As for the backers - yes they should go on the opposite sides on the rails. I did a lot of digging and had a conversation with the originator of the idea (whoppingpochard) from the Voron group to confirm because the backers are actually holding expansion and not being used to rigidize the extrusion 180 degrees is the call for. I went to length on placing them at 90 degrees since the width of the backer is much more substantial than the thickness of the backer. I'm not 100% sure which screws are hitting on your left side Y, nothing should hit. Optimally, your left Y should be like .5mm or less from the rear when your right side Y triggers the end stop. As for the cleaning and lubing of the rails. I do have a video with my method here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eoiUZoOZidWnabM I would guess your rails are fine. When grease is applied they will not slide too freely, they will slide better w/o ANY lube or really fine oil, but then you will need to re-lube daily! EP2 by Mobilux is your best bet, or if you are unable to find it you could use mid-thickness lithium grease. - Hey do me a favor like and continue to comment, it'll help others find my videos. The only complaint I ever get is that KZbin doesn't show my content as well as it should - You can help that! If you go to my channel I also have some community posts about doing "call-in" live streams, spread the word! Once I have enough people I think I could do them for a few weeks I may make it a weekly thing!

[@contomo5710]

i dont like the idea of that, doesnt doesnt really mean its square... it just means youre ends are aligned with the other ends.... well if your AB motor mounts/front idlers arent put on the same way, its also not going to be square, you could just shift one axis forward, and the other back, do this procedure, and youd have calibrated it to be a parallelogram.

[@BuildItBasement]

Assuming you constructed the frame square from the start, that shouldn't be much of an issue. There is always a way to make a tip or suggestion not work the way its intended - extremes will always be there. Under normal and proper construction where you need to minimally adjust your gantry, this has worked for me on three builds. I guess what I would really like to say is that without a decent starting point (before this stage) you'll be fighting a battle no matter the method. You are 100% right if your frame is not true during the build this will not fix all the possible issues. I will also add that if your gantry parts are properly printed and everything is tight it would be difficult to not notice the printer being a parallelogram. Linear rails don't like being askew.

[@oscarvogel2140]

I see you haven't made a post on the forum.vorondesign shameless self promotion fora. NERO posted his there, along with maple leaf, west3D etc.

[@BuildItBasement]

Well - Feel free! I'll just chug along and make videos and try to help people who are seeking help. I have posted links to my videos when I'm actively helping in the forums but I don't want to post links to myself just to post links to myself. I'd love to have more people watching and joining up with me as a community - but I've never been a salesperson.

[@oscarvogel2140]

@@BuildItBasement Nah, it's called the shameless self promotion fora. That's what it's for self promotion. I mention your channel on there (promote you) when I get a chance. Thanks so much to you and all the people on the internet who take the time to record and post info that helps us figure out how to fix or build things. Weither it's VW diesels or 3D printers.

[@BuildItBasement]

@@oscarvogel2140 I rather grow organically - People like you who found the videos helpful can promote them. I'm only one person and I barely have time to record the videos! Promoting them!? Who has the time!