Pattern Making for Beginners: 7 essential tips for drafting sewing patterns

[@lindsaystorm24]

I’ve been working in the industry for about ten years. I bought the scissors you recommended and I must say I do not regret buying them as well! What a great scissor I want more!!! Thank you xx

[@Thelaststitch]

Yay! They are truly so great!

[@michaelsrowland]

what scissors ?

[@helenparker1870]

Another tip is to split your circumference measurements into separate front and back measurements before you start drafting. Ignore instructions that suggest you divide circumference measurements into four equal segments and use actual measurements instead, this will reduce the amount of fitting you will have to do. Winifrid Aldritch's Metric Pattern Cutting and Suzy Furrer's book Building Patterns suggest this quartering approach to drafting, which is only useful for perfectly cylindrical figures. They do suggest adding and subtracting small amounts to these front and back measurements; but why use their best guess when you can take accurate measurements really easily. Anyone with a large bust, or generous hips will need much more fabric at these locations than is allowed in their drafts, trust me I have these books and have tried their methods. To take accurate front and back measurements start at one side seam. Put several elastic bands on the tape measure to indicate the side seam and bust point locations, the rubber bands will stay in place and allow you to take these measurements in one go. Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong uses separate front and back measurements, as do many of the vintage drafting books in my collection. So no one is disappointed, none of these manual drafting methods work well if you have a bra cup size larger than a D cup, as they give standardized amounts for the bust darts. You have to draft the pattern and then do a full bust adjustment. I have created my best fit with drafting software called Pattern Master Boutique from wildginger.com as it allows you to draft using actual body measurements and automatically adds the amount of ease you specify. It comes with a Pattern Editor program optimised for drafting patterns, so I can adapt the basic blocks. The styles available in the program allow you draft different bust dart locations, necklines, sleeves, etc so I don't have to do much manual dart manipulation. They have separate programs for knit fabrics and foundation garments. It is the only method I have found that drafts for a large bust cup size from the start. I found the support from Karen their technician was invaluable, as she will evaluate pictures of you wearing your sloper and suggest changes to make to perfect the fit. They also have an active user forum, which can be very useful if you want advice on drafting a particular style.

[@Thelaststitch]

I have the Pattern Master Boutique too and used it pretty much exclusively for many years (back in the early/mid 2000s) Is it still around? I had the regular one, but was close to buy the knit version too, That could be a great option for those who feel intimidated by drafting from scratch. I did find I had to do some tweaks afterwards, and it did occasionally draft some oddities, but overall a good program at an affordable price

[@helenparker1870]

@@Thelaststitch Version seven has just come out. They have made adjustments to the fit algorithms so that there are more parameters to tweak. For more standard body types you can take a minimal number of measurements and let it calculate the rest. There are many more style options to choose from. There is a fab for finished pattern dimensions, split between the front and the back of the body. The best addition for beginners is that it generates a guide sheet for every pattern which reads like traf

[@helenparker1870]

The guide sheet reads like traditional pattern instructions, with number of pieces to cut, order of construction. Specific instructions with diagrams for things like a jeans fly front, self pockets, etc. If you still have your original software they do upgrade pricing. It would be worth downloading the demo to see the changes they have made and all the style options available. The Pattern Editor is useful for drafting your own designs and it comes free as part of the package. I just tried altering the Vogue basic fit pattern to my measurements, by the time I had lengthened above and below the bustline, added extra width across the front bust and then narrowed the shoulders and waistline the pattern was unrecognizable. The only seam I did not change was the armhole. I don't have the patience to do this on a regular basis. I now use commercial patterns for inspiration and information on specific designer details, but base my final designs on modifications of existing fitting patterns.

[@howardgoldstein8290]

....being in a very small space, with limited room to spread out and do extensive pattern work, I find that even knowing how to adjust and re-design commercial patterns, is greatly improved by knowing basic and even not so basic pattern drafting. I had pattern training at F.I.T. when I was a student there between 1963-1965 & still use my pattern drafting tools all the time...nothing like having a French curve & a hip curve handy!

[@Thelaststitch]

Agree, understanding how to alter commercial patterns is a crucial skill with the added bonus is that you don't have to invent the entire wheel, someone else has already done a lot of thinking for you! And I'm sure that your pattern making training helps with that too

[@The09hale]

Just navigating to garment training. I found it the right video. Thank you very much! from Ethiopia Africa

[@mekosmowski]

Thank you so, so much for calling out menswear. I'm diving in and learning drafting and construction for my own wear and I greatly appreciate you calling out resourcex specific to menswear. I have watched one of your videos earlier while researching sergers and decided to subscribe after watching this one. Again, thank you!

[@Thelaststitch]

Happy to hear you enjoyed my videos and thank you so much for subscribing

[@mekosmowski]

@@Thelaststitch I ordered two of the books you suggested. The first one might arrive Wednesday.

[@libbybowles]

Thanks for rekindling my interest in pattern drafting. I have a great bodice sloper but one of my 2019 goals is to create a great pants sloper. Regarding using clothes from your wardrobe to help with drafting the right fit...funny story: I recently drafted a pattern off a favorite pair of jeans. When making up multiple test garments I couldn't for the life of me get the grain right. Finally I realized that after years of wear these jeans had contorted themselves to my body so well that they could no longer lay flat on grain as if they were new. Funny in retrospect but it frustrated me for hours! I'm glad I finally figured it out. Thanks for all the great tips. Love the print of your blouse in this video, btw. :-)

[@Thelaststitch]

That's so funny and it goes to show what a living thing fabric is, so even with our best effort it's hard to predict what our garment will look like after the wear and tear!

[@WerdeDesigner]

There is no magic formula, but a formula. I highly recommend Patternmaking for Fashion 1: Basic Practice, Englisch and German Editions by Hofenbitzer. With the right know-how, you save a lot of time when trying on. The starting point is always the basic pattern for the normal figure, this also applies to the problem figure. To draft with your individual measurements does not work, if these deviate far from the average.

[@lucycowie7245]

My mother cleaned out the spare room in our house and found three rolls of old wall paper, mostly full. I wanted to do some pattern making as I am really interested in sewing. I just need to get some fabric from the second hand store now. nice tips.

[@donaunsworth5620]

Please could you add Subtitles as I'm deaf. I'm new to this but dream of being able to draft my own ready to fit or alter RTW clothing. Thank you 😢

[@anubis33]

Well explained Johanna. Even though I can use Illustrator it’s so much easier to draft by hand especially truing up the adjustments made. Having a hands-on feel when drawing isn’t just about connecting with the shapes but I enjoy the process, finding it relaxing and therapeutic too. My interest is with TR pattern cutting so paper adjustments just need to be made by hand. As when I’m working out a detail rather than the whole pattern.

[@Thelaststitch]

Agree! And if one spends a lot of time in front of the computer anyway, the physical act of drafting pattern is refreshing often

[@tigerpunk1996]

I ve used autocad to draft patterns,the hard part to recreate is the french curve so I tend to check it with the ruler afterwards.

[@Thelaststitch]

Yes I can imagine that any software not optimized for pattern drafting comes with its shortcomings, it's the same with Adobe Illustrator.

[@grixxy_666]

Marvelous Designer is a wonderful tool if you have the coin to shell out for it.

[@melissanielsen8215]

Thankyou very much I really appreciate your teaching .So much I did not know .I am finding your videos to be very helpful.I am planning on making clothes for myself .

[@myralorraine]

Great video Johanna! I am really spending more time teaching myself pattern drafting and learned some of your tips the hard way! What I found was, I really enjoy drafting my own patterns and this year I want to have more “slopers“ for myself. Thanks for sharing your great tips!

[@Thelaststitch]

Yes, drafting patterns are so rewarding, and once the slopers are figured out and we have som good basic blocks for garments, it really makes the process so much easier.

[@jennybrowne4712]

Thank you for your post! Much needed guidelines to remember when pattern drafting.

[@magicmegan4290]

Love your blue eyes! Thanks for the information.

[@meowzic]

Is there a more modern pattern drafting book not in the textbook price range? I just would like to learn to make my own patterns that aren't only clothing, but other fabric projects such as bags and other custom designs.

[@valclements7092]

Great video Johanna, I get making a block I need to be shown how you adapt your block to say a commercial pattern or Indie pattern. Thank you Val🇨🇦🇬🇧❤️

[@alexandraviramontes6202]

I am starting a little girls boutique and I’m coming into the problem how to determine the size for different ages.? How to predict am approx size ?

[@lokitwist680]

I love your top! And this video was very helpful, thank you so much.

[@salttothesea]

Really useful tips! My question is: how do you add ease to a block/sloper pattern?? None of the patternmaking books I’ve looked at explain this :(

[@elaine58100]

Just starting watching your channel. Thank you for the tips. I really love your blouse, particularly the fabric. Could I please ask the name of the fabric? Thank you :)

[@Thelaststitch]

It's a cotton fabric from the Danish vendor from Stoff & Stil it's a reissue of a vintage fabric

[@silversagapatterns]

Great advices! I can relate so much to my beginner years!

[@Thelaststitch]

Yes I think we have all have had to go through these insights the hard way, but it's so rewarding when it all clicks, and after almost 30 years, I still learn something new with each project. Which is probably why we keep going, the constant urge to learn, challenge ourselves and create!

[@aminul692]

Nice tutorial...

[@rhodaabbey1675]

Pls I want to buy some of the book

[@evar5831]

Tack! Ska leta rätt på nån av de böckerna på svenska! Är ny med allt det här och försöker desperat att hitta information om hur man gör mönster och så vidare haha.

[@alaskaatlast751]

The equations for pattern making , please

[@kay2577]

See those books Johanna referenced, those have all the equations you need.

[@dgarnett4220]

Like your site, you explain well. But showing us how to : Making a pattern for pants, sewing machine and different settings for sewing knits, jersey, cotton ect. Serger the same, but doing these things , making them , as you talk us through the project would be more useful. I learn by doing , I find patterns are too confusing. Tips you’ve learned as you show us, get sewing please 😊

[@bunmibolarinwa6116]

Please ma how can I get those books in Nigeria

[@julieannafoss6819]

What do you mean by ease? Is that jargon or as in relaxed fit???

[@Thelaststitch]

It's the amount of extra width you add to a garment. Zero ease = your body measurements. Negative ease= the garment has less width than your body measurements (such as close fitting stretch knit garments) . Hope that helps explain it 👍

[@julestrek]

Love this video. So helpful

[@Shopsuspex]

I was hoping she would talk about the cardboard cutouts that are displayed on the thumbnail cover of this video. I want to know how I can make them and other tools essential for handmade bulk production and I’m not about to go read three textbooks to figure that out😂

[@kay2577]

you know instead of talking to us, about Johanna, you can actually ask her and that might help get your question resolved.

[@ilkbahar9424]

Or read the books😒

[@CeresIsABetterPlanetThanPluto]

The Closet Historian goes through how to make your own block patterns- if anyone else is trying to figure out how to do this

[@newtoatheism5968]

I’m having a bit of a hard time drawing out the measurements

[@goldenhour5654]

Thank you so much for the tips, I found this video extremely helpful. I also know Adobe Illustrator and I am so interested to check out your patreon channel :D

[@قناةتجربةالمنتجات]

نرجوا إضافة الترجمة باللغة العربية

[@mariemoller9901]

.thanks...but....you keep hiding the writers name with your hand.....

[@MrMikezombie777]

Idiot question from a beginner here. How do people make parallel lines while pattern making? I'm really bad at eyeballing it.

[@enelinmedrano8704]

You use pattern making paper. Alpha numeric paper. It has cross lines that guide you.

[@khimothy1928]

Hi

[@cielsius]

hello 🗿

[@renderuthis]

these girls are all the same just talking about it. You must put in some visuals.

[@user-te7xq7cm8t]

too much talking