Making a Shirt: 1 by 1 Paul Kruize Tailoring Jeans, Shirts and other Garments, PART 3

A mini documentary on Paul Kruize, maker of bespoke jeans, shirts and other garments, made by Richard Bussink.
The talented Richard Bussink followed me for two days to film the process of making a shirt the slow way, from start to finish, from measuring, pattern drawing, to cutting and constructing. This shirt is made the Neapolitan way with a pleated shoulder and hand sewn details.
For more videos on the making process visit my page at vimeo.com/paul...
More info on Paul Kruize: paulkruize.com
More on Richard Bussink: richardbussink.nl

[@stevekwong1979]

Amazing craftmanship. Respect

[@colin101981]

Thank you for allowing me to see this piece of work. Always a pleasure to watch a high end craftsman at work. I can imagine your tutorials would be amazing (hint!).

[@fideledefer4283]

Amen to that ! 🤲

[@ikawolf2857]

You just inspired me to pursue tailoring craft, and i am 36 old male :) Thank you very much, Sir.

[@Protontoon]

How is your tailoring craft going on now?

[@dartagnanize]

@@Protontoonremains secret :)

[@jgarces]

Making a shirt the way a good tailor does is just beautiful. Your craft borders on art, both in process and product. I wish I could afford, or better still, learn how to make a shirt like this! Congratulations on the beautiful video. I have watched it several times.

[@jgarces]

Do you give any courses?

[@ashleysophiepasamon6476]

@@jgarces es obvio!

[@philbivins7133]

A beautiful documentary by a true artisan...incredible workmanship

[@tegan71969]

Top-notch craftsmanship! Impeccable attention to detail! I enjoy your videos and hope to see more in the future. Just know others are enjoying and benefitting from your knowledge. Thank you for sharing!

[@PaulKruize]

Tegan69 🙏🏻

[@daccaippi]

I've enjoyed watching you.. No fancy music in the background, just you and your work.. Keep going 👍

[@ainsleyveeran4299]

Beautifully done. The sounds as well... especially the steam iron and scissors. 👌🏿. I feel like I need to go and iron some of my shirts now.

[@charlinegiroud9872]

So inspirational! Thank you very much for sharing the video!

[@TakittyLove]

Beautiful, and the finishings are delicated. I liked it !! ♥

[@karinoodtpoppe6644]

This is so satisfying to watch! And to listen to. Your work is excellent!

[@rajatthakur3965]

Please make a Denim Jacket!

[@MrLloydLockett]

You make it look easy…amazing. The lines are so clean and no pinning…just beautiful.

[@YourBrandDead]

You sir are inspiring and amazing! Thank you!🙏🏼

[@Yourfavoritepunkhippie]

I just enjoy how you use what you got. Very beautiful garment .

[@Tonywoodsonline]

Your workflow is fantastic!

[@IODell]

Very impressive. Respect for your craftmanship.

[@konnandaojang]

I feel relax when I look your work .

[@CSEABDELBAGI]

Amazing craftsmanship

[@maacver1980]

Gracias por compartir estos videos, motivan e inspiran a seguir trabajando, saludos desde México!!!!

[@ritchersonm.pattersen1702]

This is truly bespoke at its finest.

[@alefaadel1499]

What a beautiful shirt you made, thanks for sharing

[@Michael-fw5ef]

I like your suspenders, Mr. Kruize.

[@ManOfMonism]

In English, they are called braces. Women wear suspenders with stockings. Thank God!

[@marcoanzalone2505]

Ladies and Gentleman, the incredible adventures of Makinga!

[@SuperMehdi1971]

Wish I had a fine white genuine shirt like the one you sew, thanks it was incredible

[@irwn_uci]

Good work. Very detailed and neat.

[@jorgemacario8373]

impresionante su trabajo , un sastre muy completo 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻

[@jorgevega5797]

Talent man wow very great job

[@naomotocorporation8542]

Brilliant!

[@belvederboy]

Amasing done work .I enjoy watching your video.

[@dagmarl8061]

Wunderbare Arbeit !

[@gersonjanuario]

Um verdadeiro artista! Congratulations

[@swaminathaniyer2647]

This is real classic.

[@vakeropalma9905]

Good job Paul work hard🙂👍👍

[@selvhinvillacortes6631]

H! Blessing! veo tus videos y m encats la pasion y dedicación q le das s cada prenda en patronaje corte y confección tienes unas manos calidas como tu Alma es un Honor para tus amigos y familiares tenerte eres un ejemplo a seguir cada detalle en la camisa lleva tu huells mo solo tu etiqueta personal tu olor tu ser tu calma paciencia tu validad de ser Humano.

[@olakonmi7219]

Sir nice work I would love to learn how you draft your pattern both for the jean pants and this shirt

[@sarveshyadav857]

Awasome.. great job 🙏

[@rubencasasreategui7890]

Very nice video, greetings from Perú.

[@diditorib1519]

aaaahhh this juki machine... Such a different vibe in comparaison with the new ones

[@2010stoof]

I would love to know the tools you use. boiler and iron, juki model #, threads you prefer for different garments, etc. very cool series :-)

[@anilkumar2295]

🎉Nice work sir

[@jissquared]

This is beautiful. Can we also expect a video on one of your worker jackets?

[@PaulKruize]

Maybe one day :)

[@psychoo16psycho51]

Amazing 👍

[@supercat946]

I enjoy what you do 👍👍

[@PaulKruize]

So do I! :)

[@theredrover3217]

And that my friends is how one makes a fine shirt. I'm usually quite good with vocabulary. Thought best to double-check, looked up sartorial. Honestly can't remember ever using it but it would have been wrong I am sure if I had. And I am going to be using it now. 👏👏👏

[@richardgolden3265]

Thank you.

[@perciesucuytana3420]

Genial.Paul.

[@theredrover3217]

I am commenting for two reasons. 1) I understand comments help with the algorithm and want more people to see this. Not only to increase your business but an education for young and old across the board male and female - what IS fine workmanship. And share a story in substitution for emoticons. Partner and I in bed side-by-side reading magazines. Eventually I could no longer ignore the murmurs and sounds coming from beside me. Seeing out of the corner of my eye, transfixed it seemed, admiring the fold out I had to look. What else but Playboy WOULD inspire all that? It was Wooden Boat. (Traditional design, construction and repair.) And I found myself making those sounds, transfixed, watching a man sew a shirt.

[@PaulKruize]

Thank you so much! 🙏🏻😊

[@BeteOrg]

Ini yang saya tunggu tunggu

[@leespiderpod]

That’s a beautiful Juki, what model is it? My great uncle had polio as a child during the 1950’s and lost the use of his legs. During that era disabled people were pushed into tailoring and so he became a fantastic tailor. He eventually owned 2 shops in north London and became very successful during the late 60s making suits & shirts.

[@PaulKruize]

leespiderpod Great story! The Juki is a DDL 5550-4

[@Paulo-hs3wc]

Sensacional , parabéns perfeito , grande abraço daqui do Brasil

[@ДжулеттаАствацатурова]

Смотрю с удовольствием 👏👏👏

[@georgeknox]

Hello from Northern California, Paul My questions what schooling did you take to become the Tailor you are today. Living in the US we don’t have much for this kind of thing. I would love to learn more. I appreciate you.

[@PaulKruize]

George Knox I am mainly self taught at sewing. Practice, practice...

[@georgeknox]

If you have any books you would offer for me to obtain i would greatly appreciate it. I also have been studying the art of tailoring. Much respect to you Paul

[@PaulKruize]

@@georgeknox I find the book by Winifred Aldrich, Metric Pattern Cutting For Menswear, helpful and accessible

[@georgeknox]

@@PaulKruize thank you. Can you do a shop tour video someday? Cheers my friend.

[@PaulKruize]

@@georgeknox That would be a short one. It's a modest atelier ;)

[@olivermarston157]

Great job and attention to detail is the best! Was just wondering why you don't use any interfacings?

[@PaulKruize]

Thank you! I use an extra layer of cotton in the collar and cuffs.

[@sarathbandara8793]

good worke

[@mr.ali.1968]

Well done boss

[@akioandel9981]

Damn awesome

[@aamirpk95]

Very nice 👌

[@philipdebacker]

Hello Paul, in an interview you said you only started a view year ago, so where did you learn this amazing trade. How did you get so skill full in such a short time?

[@PaulKruize]

in 2014 I started making jeans and later shirts. This was a 'revisit'. In my early twenties I learned how to sew and how to draw patterns. It was a matter of reheating my experience and apply it to making jeans.

[@chrisfrantz-dale704]

Thank you for the wonderful videos. Quick question: What type of iron are you using? Thanks!

[@PaulKruize]

It's from Bielle

[@aromireolugbengasamuel3541]

Sir I like your video must you use paper patterns all the time

[@PaulKruize]

Aromire Olugbengasamuel I make a paper pattern every time

[@anantpingale4960]

@@PaulKruize sir , why don't u add press canvas in colour and cuffs

[@PaulKruize]

Anant Pingale I prefer an extra layer of cotton. It is softer to wear.

[@anantpingale4960]

@@PaulKruize thnx for reply...I m also a tailor but from.india. Bombay

[@bluepils]

sehr genau und ordentlich gearbeitet. 👍

[@Luunker]

Mooie video, ik heb deze en de jeans meerdere malen bekeken. Mag ik vragen waar of hoe je hebt leren patroontekenen? Organiseer je wel eens workshops?

[@jamalkavla3304]

Sir make some video's about coat pattren draw and cutting tuttoriols step by step thankyou

[@surinderjitsingh8954]

Ultra classic suspenders

[@SteveRobinson1959]

Thank you Paul, you have inspired me to use similar hand-sewn techniques to make a shirt. I can't see any interfacing used here, do you think it's unnecessary for a casual poplin shirt such as this? I didn't use any in the last shirt I made which is linen and has a soft button-down collar.

[@PaulKruize]

@@SteveRobinson1959 I only use an extra layer of cotton for the collar and cuffs. Keeps it soft.

[@SteveRobinson1959]

@@PaulKruize Thanks Paul, I'll do that.

[@massimogiordano2778]

VERY MAGIC. PROFESSIONAL. ❤.

[@EmilyOBrien-h5x]

Hello, what type of seam did you use to construct the side seams?

[@PaulKruize]

@@EmilyOBrien-h5x The inseam is a felled seam

[@bathildis6590]

Danke

[@2010stoof]

Maybe its something you only learn in school or training, but id love to know how you convert measurements to patterns and draw them. I'm stuck using store bought patterns and as you know they never fit just right.

[@PaulKruize]

It would take some time to learn :)

[@euclidesoliveira5457]

Very nice👍🏽🇧🇷

[@RyanRixSewing]

Love your work Paul! With the flat fell seam on the armhole, does the sleeve and armhole have different seam allowances to be sewn the way you have?

[@PaulKruize]

There's a bit more on the sleeve indeed!

[@RaqiRaqaoy]

Can you please make tutorial for boys vest

[@fransfrancois]

Can you tell me what type of iron are you using?

[@PaulKruize]

The iron is a Bielle, the kettle Due Effe.

[@kevinvergeer]

This is amazing. I really want to learn how to tailor. Do you take internships? I am guessing your from the Netherlands as well

[@PaulKruize]

I am afraid I have no room for an intern, but feel free to send me an email if you want to know more.

[@arabshady]

At least you tried

[@Mauriseph86]

Wonderful video, I wanted to ask what type of tool are you using to make the button holes? and are you hitting it with a hammer?

[@PaulKruize]

I cut with a chisel before stitching.

[@ManOfMonism]

@@PaulKruize You can clearly see that in the video 🤭🤭 Thank you for the upload. It's always good to pick up tips from an expert. I love the horizontal cut of the collar. Hervorragend.

[@bheinatz1]

What kind of thread do you use for the hand stitching if the collar/shoulders/sleeves? Is it silk or cotton on the buttonholes?

[@PaulKruize]

Hi Ben, for the hand stitching I use Amann SabaC 120. For the buttonholes the same or slightly thicker, depending on the fabric.

[@SachinTawaleS]

Greate work

[@budimisandra4543]

Nice👍👍

[@fabiobarbugian3369]

Hi Paul, I would like to know what does it means slightly tilted forward, about a sleeve shirt. Thanks a lot and congratulations for all. Fabio

[@PaulKruize]

Like on a jacket, the shirt sleeve is set after the panels are connected. Then the sleeve is tilted forward to give a better angle. So the sleeve seam is not at the side seam, but a bit more to the front panel.

[@fabiobarbugian3369]

@@PaulKruize all is clear. Thanks a lot.

[@PaulKruize]

@@fabiobarbugian3369 Pleasure!

[@streetphotographer365]

Hi , this is a remarkable work ,I’m not familiar with the craft at al,l but I enjoyed the video since the beginning to the end Can I ask you a question What I need to do to be a cuter, tailor ? Were I can begin. Thanks 🙏

[@PaulKruize]

Learn how to draw a pattern.

[@streetphotographer365]

@@PaulKruize thank very much 🙏, I will start do that -:)

[@omarledezmaarauz4884]

Exelente me gusto

[@willie8649]

Hello Paul, do you think the Juki TSC 441 is too much for denim work?

[@PaulKruize]

I think you'd be better of with a machine in a table top. I can process all seams on my Juki.

[@willie8649]

Paul Kruize Thank you for replying, what model is your Juki machine?

[@PaulKruize]

W I L L I E It’s a Juki ddl 5550-4

[@sebastianclarke403]

Hi what weight thread do you use on a shirt vs a pair of jeans? Thanks!

[@PaulKruize]

Sebastian Clarke I use Amann sabaC 120 for a fine cotton shirt and 50 for jeans

[@sebastianclarke403]

@@PaulKruize Thank you! Is it cotton or polyester? I just started making clothes and I am struggling to find any good information about what thread to use. I love your videos!

[@PaulKruize]

Sebastian Clarke It is polyester

[@paulkhouri2165]

Hi Paul, may I ask about fusing interfacing. Do you use the iron or a fusing press?

[@PaulKruize]

Neither. I use an extra layer of cotton for the collar and cuffs.

[@paulkhouri2165]

@@PaulKruize whatever ‘floats’ hehe, thanks for the reply mate, your work is beautiful.

[@2010stoof]

subscribed for sure!!

[@renerainesrider7752]

Segundo video que veo de usted. Sabe usted se parece a Gus Geijo, un fotógrafo español que admiro. No se porque me gusta verlo trabajar, será que ya estoy grande? Obvio tengo 45 years. A mi también me gusta mi trabajo de diseño o creación en electrónica y trabajo solo desde 2001. Saludos y mis admiraciones para usted. Ah pd. Yo también tengo una máquina de coser de 1 aguja electrónica brother y me encanta mi máquina.

[@PaulKruize]

🙏🏻

[@halimakouakeu5569]

is that a french seam used for the arm hole seams?

[@PaulKruize]

Halima Kouakeu It’s sort of a felled seam. Actually don’t know what it’s called.

[@2010stoof]

I'm no expert but looked like a faux flat felled. Great talent here people :-)

[@francescagianesello2073]

The best ❤

[@KokanAgriculturegoatfarm]

Sir , you are using sewing machine with clutch motor?

[@PaulKruize]

It has a servo motor.

[@ejazsalman2185]

You are my MASTER

[@ashfakkapadi4535]

Nice work , Sir how much cost of 1 jeans pant and 1 shirt ?

[@PaulKruize]

Please check my website for information and prices.

[@amosjuliantampubolon2413]

What is fabric of the shirt you wearing? Denim or chambray?

[@PaulKruize]

Amos Tampubolon It’s a chambray

[@amosjuliantampubolon2413]

@@PaulKruize it looks great, where did you get the fabric?

[@PaulKruize]

Amos Tampubolon It’s Japanese

[@cassandraharada3331]

Hi Mr. Kruize, I have a question about what sort of machine you're using. I recently bought a Juki Industrial DDL 5570N (I'm in Japan) I want to be able to use it for both Jeans and shirts like you do! What Juki are you using?

[@PaulKruize]

Hi Cassandra, I use a Juki DDL-5550-4.

[@cassandraharada3331]

@@PaulKruize OH! Thank you so much for that information, sorry to try and weasel info off of you, I work mostly in wool so I've never been worried about specifications before but I really wanted to be able to sew heavier weight denims etc. I will compare yours with mine! Thanks again so much!

[@PaulKruize]

@@cassandraharada3331 My pleasure!

[@clothingconstruction328]

is that craft paper? what weight is it? im deciding between 100 or 200 g. any thoughts?

[@PaulKruize]

I use 70 gr. Does the work and is easy to fold and store. 200 sounds more like a weight for hanging storage

[@clothingconstruction328]

@@PaulKruize Thanks. I'll go for 80 grams then. Do you know any place in europe that sells nice rulers. I found the same wooden one as yours but cant find metal ones like fairgate for example. Anyways thank you!

[@PaulKruize]

@@clothingconstruction328 Did you try Amazon?

[@clothingconstruction328]

@@PaulKruize yeah the ones I found doesnt ship to my country, unfortunately

[@PaulKruize]

@@clothingconstruction328 Hope you do find some!

[@heliocreston9399]

maravilhoso

[@mamahboncuchannel8573]

I like comfort if use

[@aralonzo6238]

How do you choose thread count when selecting denim

[@PaulKruize]

Do you mean thread thickness? I use Amann SabaC 50 for all denims.

[@aralonzo6238]

I’m using hemp cotton blend denim I going for extremely heavy and stiff and soft & smooth comfortable relax

[@aralonzo6238]

What is your email

[@PaulKruize]

@@aralonzo6238 [e-mail]

[@josechaves6134]

Fantástico,sou Dan.

[@joandorsey2242]

I would have liked to see them on the customer. I used to make my children’s and my jeans. On a Juki machine, also! Still have some of them.

[@joandorsey2242]

Thank you. ❤️