Planing Techniques: Heel Lift-off | Paul Sellers

[@Paul.Sellers]

We've added English subtitles to this video. We work hard to reach as many people around the world and help them learn woodworking. We need your help to translate our videos subtitles to your language and progress our work. Please contribute translations here: kzbin.info_cs_panel?tab=2&c=UCc3EpWncNq5QL0QhwUNQb7w

[@dynastienakladatelstvi8803]

Hi Paul, I've done the Czech version of them. BTW: Thanks for sharing your experience the way you're doing it. They're nice and easy to follow.

[@wdfwgagyfgagyga]

i think with modern woodworking equipment, things like this get forgotten. i thank you for keeping uploading tip like this, it makes me realize how far we got with woodworking.

[@johnstruck8263]

I was thinking it would be nice to see that technique in slow motion and then my wish came true. Thanks again Paul, I have learned so much from you.

[@thatilluminati_3421]

This is one of those things I wish I knew yesterday. Nice video as always!

[@BigJonkulous]

I love when Paul hits the slow motion

[@bobs344]

Good to hear from you Mr Sellers. Always a treat to watch the master!

[@brianmiller9365]

Professional wood finisher here for many many years (laquer,shellac, oils etc) but am just starting out actual wood working in my spare time and this is the BEST info ever for me. Thank you. Setting up and tuning a plane was also excellent. Was getting lost as a newbie. Thanks for sharing your experience in a way that I can understand and put to use. Means a lot to me.

[@tonyy5482]

Thanks Paul. I took possession of a used but lovely Stanley 51/2 plane 2 days ago and it struck me when it arrived that I am slowly becoming a proper plane user and should really find out how to use it well. "As if by magic"/technology youtube emailed me a link to this new video - and there isn't anybody I would rather learn planing from! Brilliant, just what I need right now. Perfect timing!

[@wickedloudone]

New to using hand planes and I have most certainly learned a lot by watching your videos Mr Sellers. Thank you for your knowledge and passing-on what you know for generations to come...

[@ServeDinkSmash]

This is another example of something I understand intellectually but need to practice a lot before I can actually be good at it.

[@Blobjonblob]

Quick, simple and effective teaching.

[@springwoodcottage4248]

I am always amazed by how much subtle technique has been developed to get the best out any tool. It is these refinements that so enhance the work & provide such a stimulating challenge of brain & body coordination. Thank you!

[@dennisafowler]

Thank you for your videos. I never imagined that I would be able to complete projects with hand tools. From your videos, I've gained confidence and learned some amazing techniques. I've also learned how accurate hand tools can be. Thanks again

[@vandenpiaff]

Thanks Paul for another great video. I am a mecanic but i do a lot of DIY woodworking and i learn so much from your videos. Thanks a lot.

[@Mikhandmaker]

Great video Paul! Greatings

[@LHR10mm]

Another great video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mr Sellers.

[@thebigbird1389]

Simple and to the point. Thank You

[@timwhite9255]

Excellent, i was wondering how to do that and this is quite simple. Now i have to train my arms to do that.

[@BDM_PT]

Hi there from Portugal, Nice :D Obrigado(Thanks) Master Paul Sellers.

[@rjsenn4142]

Enjoyed yet another great tip from you!

[@lifelearner84]

The music in your videos is absolutely fantastic. I would love to know where to find it. Thanks for all of your incredible videos Paul!

[@davestrain1762]

Great tutorial Paul.... This is something developed with time, trial and error for some of us. This should definitely save some of the new guys Time and material :)

[@tkjazzer]

slow motion part was awesome!! more slow-motion video clips when it will help beginners please

[@pbsteelhead]

Paul thank you for the tip

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Excellent! Thank you.

[@whosaidthat5236]

You should look into doing a collaboration video with Alec Steele the young blacksmith,or with the guy from joint venture, he does some amazing Japanese joinery and another great video Paul thanks for keeping this tradition alive , PS I would like to see you make a long bow one day I bet yours would be amazing

[@tag_of_frank]

Thanks! Can you make a video about thicknessing boards also please !

[@RootsEcho]

Do you consider wear and tear of the blade and/or the (lack of) increase of temperature of the blade from resistance in the taking back of the plane? What I usually notice when planing is the warmth of the shavings coming from the plane. I can imagine the blade getting say micro heated and enough to dramatically reduce the durability of the cutting edge.

[@andrewcarruthers6949]

Hi I love your videos and I feel like I learnt so much I wondered if you could answer a question for me what is our haunched through tennon with my tongue

[@TH-ot9ef]

Would you use the same technique with a jointer plane? Or would you try to make a complete pass over the entire length (as much as possible) before your next pass?

[@mglennon5535]

Aaaahaaaa! Thank you from the bottom of my uneven plane...

[@BobBlarneystone]

It took me more than a few boards before I figured that out, along with adjusting the blade projection to suit the wood species.

[@Coleton33Music]

If we lift off and land our planes does that make us pilots? By the same thought, is a power plane user considered an auto pilot?

[@cheesegrater2018]

What should we do when we encounter knots? Should we leave them and sand those bits? or use more momentum to plow throught them?

[@wdtintin]

If they are hard woody knots that you can't get over on a very fine setting, it's best to plane around them, then for the knot itself you can actually plane it in a careful circular motion, taking small "bites" out of the wood. I think I've seen Paul do this in some past videos where he explains it as well.

[@donjohnson24]

Very informative - and I wish I had enough puff to be able to talk whilst planing that vigorously ! :-)

[@aaltan]

dear Paul, just to clarify, I wanted to ask a question, you say you are lifting the back of the plane every time you pull back the plane.. since the blade is facing forward, if you hadn"t lifted the plane when pulling back, I would assume nothing would have changed. Could you please comment on this? Thanks.

[@wdtintin]

Ahmet, you're correct that if you don't lift the blade on the "back-stroke" nothing will happen to the wood. However, my understanding is, we do this to keep the blade sharp, dragging it back will slowly dull the blade (iron) by rounding the edge over. It would be like stropping the iron at too-high/steep of an angle.

[@WouterNaessens]

When you're moving backwards, how do you know where your previous stroke started? Is this just a matter of training your eye?

[@soamsurnane711]

Wouter Naessens i think it comes with time

[@keessprado3319]

Wouter Naessens, the strokes are quite short so I think your body is the reference. And some extensive training will teach.

[@joshwiley881]

Thank you

[@Kikilang60]

Thanks.

[@chriscunicelli7070]

Hi Paul, I have heard you say that you don't use longer planes such as a #6or7. I own several and am a plane enthusiast. But I have struggled to make the longer planes flat. How would you do it? I was hoping you would have a cheaper option.

[@artconnolly9519]

Paul I just finished restoring an old craftsman block plane with an adjustable mouth. I still don't really understand how changing the width of the mouth matters. Sorry if this is a silly question.

[@scottverge938]

As far as I know it mostly has to do with how difficult the wood is and how much you want to take off in a pass. If the wood is really difficult like lots of figure and such you'll want to take off less and close up the mouth to reduce any tear out. When it's nice easy to work straight grain you can take a heavier cut and hence you'll have to open up the mouth a bit.

[@red58impala]

I think Mr. Sellers posted a picture, on his blog at some point, that showed how the toe of the plane supports the fibers in front of the cutting edge. The larger the mouth, the less the plane supports those fibers and instead of being cut they are basically broken off. This leaves a surface that can have tear out or left rough. The smaller the mouth the more support you get and the cleaner the cut. Due to the smaller mouth you have to take a smaller shaving so as not to clog the mouth with shavings. I tried searching his blog, but I could not find his post. I'm sure if I missed something someone more knowledgeable than me will jump in. I would recommend getting some scrap pine, try different mouth openings with heavier/lighter cuts and see what results you get.

[@artconnolly9519]

Oh I had the plane set to take a paper thin shaving. Then I was adjusting the mouth and really didn't notice any diff between the diff gap sizes. I'll try again with a thicker shaving. Thanks for posting

[@ragu41411]

Hey Paul when's the next project ????

[@UsernameFECKLE]

Made me chuckle..."How do you land a plane, and how do you take off?"

[@tobiashede]

Guys, i have no experience at all in making a plane, but i would like to try and make a small block plane like....plane, and i was wondering If its possible to make a plane with the bed for the blade/iron at an 45 degree angle. Blade/iron with the main bevel of 25 degrees with a microbevel of 25 degrees. And with the bevel facing up and not down. I think the bevel up is good for my purpose? I just want to make some small end grain cuts and some machine marks removal etc. Thanks, Tobias

[@ellabowers3910]

Tobias Hedegaard If you sign up for Paul's Woodworking Masterclass series (which is free) there is a short course of lessons on plane making. The lessons are clear and it is a simple process - I am just finishing a small curved plane. If you use 01 tool steel, as Paul recommends, it comes unhardened and is quite easy to shape with a file. Apparently you can use the blade without hardening it, if you want to try it, but you will need to sharpen it more often. Have a go, it's fun!

[@Hellcommander245]

Is it me or is the frame rate off on this video?

[@ChildCelebrity]

If you're watching in 480 or below, it does look off, but if you watch in 720@50 or 1080@50 it looks fine. Pretty sure it's because usually you'd upload at 60, which is a multiple of 30, the default, but since it's 50 there's some glitchiness.

[@ared18t]

Child Celebrity how strange

[@Apokalypzx]

Edit: I just got to the part with the slow motion and I'm pretty sure that is what tripped up KZbin's conversion process in lower resolutions. This is strange, 480p and lower = choppiness. 720p50 and above = normal smoothness. I don't think it has to do with the frame rate being uploaded at 50hz since his other videos are recorded the same way (with 720p50 and 1080p50 options) and they don't have this problem. it might be an issue with KZbin's auto transcoding/resizing process.

[@Great.Milenko]

yeah i thought something was eating up my cpu speed.

[@martindickerson9376]

I would love to see how some of idiots or should I say pricks who take the piss out of a master craftsman does it. But then I bet you are the sort of guy who laughs at these pricks. Paul just keep these videos coming 👍

[@pastuh]

We all know.. such work should be done by computers. People cant make perfect surface. Ofc.. hand made is hand made.. Bump one or two no problem :>

[@andrewcarruthers6949]

Hi sorry I've just sent you a message and I was talking to my phone to do the text and it spelt tenon wrong many thanks

[@jeffreydustin5303]

This is incomprehensible to me. Why would lifting help the process? What am I missing? What if Paul kept the plane on the wood flat and shaved off parts of the board not the whole length?