PAW Diesel Model Engine Running + Fuel Mixing

[@dlkline27]

Being an old modeler, I've run many glow engines but never a diesel. Great video on fuel mixture. I've gotten too old and had to give up modeling but I sure wish I had known how great diesel engines run back in the day.

[@homienat3374]

Nice engine mate love that idle 🤙🤙

[@samgamba]

This is the best video about model diesel engine on You Tube! Great Job very enjoyable!

[@ColinMill1]

Growing up in the UK in the 50s and 60s the smell of diesels was pretty much the smell of aeromodelling as they were the common power for most of the non-RC and smaller RC models. One point is that, by throwing a larger prop, there is an efficiency advantage that somewhat offsets the power disadvantage to glow (an advantage that low KV electrics have to an even greater degree).

[@GuitarGuys7299]

Cool video. I love the idle sound of that engine. It reminds of the idle sound of my old dirt bike. Also, thank you for explaining and showing how to mix diesel fuel. I've been flying glow for almost 40 years and gas for about 10 years but I've yet to own a diesel. But I am thinking of converting one of my old .049's over to diesel just to get the hang of how they run and how to tune them.

[@farkasandras6443]

Nagyon fasza kis motor, gratula hozzá.

[@fiery1962]

Hi Bill Great to see you. Great video. Amsoil diesel cetane boost is a very effective cetane booster. John Deere premium starting fluid is basically di-ethyl ether. One can of it will supply enough ether to make up a quart of model diesel fuel. So, the fuel ingredients are quite easy to source. Just keep the fuel in a well sealed metal canister or glass bottle after mixing. Also make sure you make up your fuel in a well ventilated area well away from sources of ignition.

[@MrAirhead2010]

Hi. I love messing with 'Diseasels' and enjoyed the video - fabulous tickover on that .40! I would argue that the fuel WILL keep well though, if kept in the right container and well capped. I recently came across a half litre of diesel fuel that had been forgotten in the back of the garage for 20 years in its original tin and it was fine. It ran my engines perfectly so I wouldn't worry about the age of it. Stored in tins or in glass with an ether-proof lid it will be ok for years. The advantage of tins is that light DOES apparently affect the fuel in some way - to its detriment. (Sorry, I can't remember in what way or where I read it - I just keep my fuel in tins!) Ok yes, diesels are a bit messy but if you like mucking about with engines, diesels have more to muck about with. Glow engines are pretty messy too and IMO diesels smell the best!

[@wjvail]

Phil Tolfree Howdy Phil. Yes - you are of course correct. You CAN store diesel fuel. The ether I used in this video is over 10 years old and none of it had evaporated. But I think you would agree that it is not as easy to mix, store and use model diesel fuel as model glow fuel. You can't buy and use it like you would a normal glow fuel. That is, in plastic gallon containers. Much of this video was for first time diesel users and I think it would be a mistake to try and mix model diesel fuel in gallon quantities without consideration for how it will be stored and used. I just didn't want modelers to think you could mix up 4 liters of diesel fuel in an old glow fuel jug and expect to get good performance after storing it for a year. I also would worry about the condition of the last few drops of fuel in a container that size. As for the smell and mess... Beauty is in the eye of the beholder! I do like diesels and I don't mind the smell of them running or the smell of the fuel. I personally don't like the smell of them two weeks later after they have been setting in my shop. They leave a smell in my car if I don't remove my airplane right away that I personally don't care for. It's not nothing terrible but it's not a smell I or anyone else would fail to notice. I should add I never run a PAW engine and don't marvel at what fine engines they are. They are just a joy to take out and run and I've got the itch to put this engine back in an LT-40 and do some touch and go's. Bill

[@IgnoreSolutions]

This one showed up pretty easily on eBay. Do you happen to know of any starting & running model diesels that are 4 cylinder? Should clarify, not looking to use it *in* anything (might think of something later though), just to build it and run it once a weekend or so.

[@wjvail]

Thanks Sam... I run a lot of engines and get a fair number of questions about diesel model engines. I think that comes from the over inflated expectation of twice the power, 1/2 the fuel consumption and a believe that they really do run on standard diesel fuel. While they are great engines and a lot of fun to run, they fall short of some folk's hopes. While the video might be a little boring, hopefully it will give some an idea of what running a compression ignition model engine entails....

[@thebug4046]

what a nice runner!

[@jackengles8458]

Hey can I run a 2 cycle in a hsp buggy car

[@hopeso]

OK, as I watched further, I got your RPM numbers and prop size, thanks.

[@robgrune3284]

very very interesting. very many thanks for posting. agree, for the mess, odours, fuss, a diesel r/c engine is truly for r/c masochists.

[@lawrencenicolin409]

Beautiful......!

[@reicht4]

dear wjvail, is there any danger of opening ether bottle after 3 years, some people say i would explode while opening it because of peroxide production in the bottle..

[@8ackbar]

there is a danger if the ether was not stored in a cool dark dry place.

[@8ackbar]

Bill, did you add the allen screws to the cylinder or did this version come with? My .35 BR came with slot head screws BA thread.

[@wjvail]

Well - I don't remember exactly. Almost certainly it came with bolts shown in the video but I've owned this engine long enough that I can't rule out the possibility that I changed them out years ago.

[@chrisberardi5999]

Where did you get the ether from?

[@alib6393]

Hi what is the 30%??tanks

[@iant8842]

It cracks me up that you are making 16oz (imperial measurement) of diesel but that you are measuring everything in mls (metric) - could be why in Oz we make up a litre (1000ml) or 1/2 litre (500ml) as it is so much easier to work out the %'s.

[@TestECull]

Not too bad, but it does seem like transition leaves a lot to be desired. And I place the blame for that squarely on that antiquated carb design that almost seems like a half-arsed 'oh fine we'll give an RC model out' than any attempt to engineer it for RC flight. I feel like, if I had that on a model and I was aborting a bad landing, I'd be at major risk of it either flaming out or simply not answering the call quickly enough to avoid the crash. The bar I set for my glow engines is 'idle @ 2750RPM for 30s, slam throttle wide-open as fast as possible, pass is immediate pickup with no hesitation or sputtering', and that just doesn't seem to be in this engine's wheelhouse with that carb. Feel like if I did that test on it it'd fail miserably. I've seen videos of an OS 40FP, an OS Surpass and a Saito all running diesel and they transition much better. The 40FP had a conversion head bolted to it. The two 4c engines....were just as they were. I think with a proper airbleed or TN carb this PAW would be a worthy option for most fliers that can get fuel, but until it gets a low-end adjust it's just not practical compared to a 46AX or 35AX.

[@thebug4046]

sounds like my old cr 250

[@ROTAXD]

She sounds beautiful @ idle.

[@direktorpresident]

PGFC was always down on diesel engines because of the myth which he mostly perpetrated himself, that they "cooled down" at prolonged idle and then would not open up again. PAW have dispelled that nonsense, as demonstrated here, but diesels still suffer from the bad press.

[@badhammermotorworks810]

That runs so beautifully! I just inherited about 10 old diesel engines from my cousin but they are all gummed solid and have no carburation. I'm not quite sure what to do with them but this is a great start! Thank you.