Pen blank label casting tutorial

[@Exsig12]

Super job! I appreciate you explaining the entire process in detail. Many KZbinrs don't take that time and the information is clouded.

[@trynforpar]

You really do a nice comprehensive presentation. I’m new to pen turning and you’re teaching method enables me to fully understand the content. Thanks.

[@a.flowers8737]

As a newbie, this was one of the most comprehensive videos on casting I've ever watched. I'm nailing the sub button....Big ups Mike! Thanks.

[@christopherblakeley]

.What perfect timing! Yesterday I started looking for a label casting tutorial and discovered there aren't very many. You are clear & concise and I see you've already answered the question about what kind of labels. Excellent tutorial!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Hi Christopher, It is something that's hard to come by tutorial wise. I though it would be a great way to kick off the channel. Thanks for watching!

[@norm5785]

Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia

[@davidwinch7997]

Very well presented. Your descriptions are very easy to understand and you impart such good information for me (the novice). Thanks again for your time taken to prepare these vids. Kind Regards, David (Beachmere, Queensland, Australia)

[@kenstankiewicz6405]

I would love to see a video on how you create the label for a blank. What program you use etc.

[@bradgiez6192]

I also would like to see a video on this subject

[@benshaver3364]

@@bradgiez6192 Add me!

[@leoleddon1420]

I would love to see it as well.

[@r.davidhens4056]

@@leoleddon1420 Same here

[@danielbell393]

Same!

[@terrystratton7541]

Great video. You're the first one who's explicitly addressed the issue of silicone mold wear. My experience has been that epoxy resins (e.g., Liquid Diamonds) - either due to "stickiness," heat, or longer curing times - seem to accelerate the leeching of oils from silicone. If you get a chance to experiment with this (or other) resins, I'd love to hear your experience. P.S. I agree re: Fred Wissen and PTownSubbie - very high quality products!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Thanks Terry! It really all comes down to cure temperature, the higher the temp, the faster your mold will age. Using a release agent for your particular type of resin will help extend that aging, but eventually, all molds will fail.

[@sug1218]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It’s very helpful and informative. Happy turning to you!

[@timbraun4148]

How do you make your tube cables? Your content is very informative and better late than never on PPE. Take care

[@michaelbeauchaine6912]

Wonderful video! You are a vary clear instructor. Which pen kits do you use ? You mention sierra . Does this pen have the largest barrels ? I want to cast & turn photos of my grand kids. Thanks again. You are the BEST

[@stevejackson5062]

Awesome tutorial. Love Fred Wissens rolling jig. A little trick I've found for trimming is single edge razor blades and push it around the end. X-acto blades are thicker and never as sharp as the single edge razor blade. Great tip on the seam side up too.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I'll give the single edge razor a try. Thanks for the tip! You may have just saved my fingers from getting sliced up :)

[@farmlender1]

Awesome video - you are a great instructor

[@matthewezell1911]

Great video. Just had a couple of questions. 1: What type of paper do you print on? 2: How necessary is it to heat up the molds and does it make a big difference in the outcome of the blank? Thanks for a great video and I'm looming forward to my own castings. God bless, Matt

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I use onlinelabels.com item number OL177 Heating the mold, in my opinion, is very important when using alumilite. Other resins like PR or epoxy aren't as dependent on it as they cure slower. When it comes to alumilite though, think of the mold as a heat sink. It steals heat away from the curing process, and if it takes too much of the energy, the blank will come out cloudy. Other people heat the resin instead of the mold, saying that heating the mold shortens it's life, but if you use a de-mold agent like Stoner every time you cast, that effect should be minimized.

[@lawrencelunsford6028]

I haven't started casting (yet??), but this video will be my "go to" video for instruction. A lot of information here, thanks for taking the time to explain everything. :)

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

+Lawrence Lunsford you're welcome. Keep your eye out for more of them! Thanks for watching

[@AndyBlue]

Wondering if you can answer a question for me? I made a blank using your techniques and you explained it well. I made a label that is mostly black. I cast the tube with Alumilite Slow in pressure pot. My issue is that I am getting a "haze" in a perfect line at the part of the label that is facing UP in the mold? Any ideas?

[@gregbrox9860]

Michael, What brand of a pressure pot do you use? I know you can use a paint pot but am unsure about the modifications that have to be made to it. I found this video very educational. Great job. Thank you.

[@hamishwatson2864]

Very instructive video, thank you for taking the time to make and share!

[@jeffholliman7897]

Awesome Video Michael! Now that is how a tutorial video should be done in my opinion. So many leave out the many tips that they use.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Jeff, Thank you! I tried to include everything, but I'm sure there's something that I'll have to cover in another video - darn the luck ;) Thanks for watching!

[@billk8579]

Excellent video...full of details. Now a subscriber. Thanks for taking the time to help those new to the craft.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

My pleasure :)

[@jeffruffing2316]

You sir, are the “bomb”! I really appreciate this video. You are the first that I know that has published such a comprehensive and complete video on Aluminite . I have yet to unpack my brand new pressure pot and put it together. You have given me directions and the courage to do so. One quick question. I work in my garage during the winter because it maintains a temperature of about 50-55 degrees. What are the ambient temperatures to work with aluminite? Expoxy and polyester?

[@anklebiterwoodworks2818]

Awesome video! Thank you for showing how to use that label rolling jig. I had the same issue with the band of brass showing on the first one I rolled and was not sure about what happened.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

[@markr.1584]

Great job. You make it easy follow and pay attention. Thanks

[@jeffruffing2316]

Two quick questions. Can you use a degasser to remove hidden bubbles that could potentially ruin the casting, then put it in a pressure pot? Second question, I noticed you said that you put your casting under psi of 40 because your pressure pot couldn't go as high. I've seen people put their castings at a much higher level such as 60-80psi. what is the ideal psi?

[@christined.3728]

Thanks for this video, now I can make my own labels--I was wondering how people were doing these! On a side note, this was obviously made before COVID 19 because now the same gloves at HF are like $15/box. Anyway, great video, thanks again.

[@sherrytwilley4627]

What paper do you use and do you use a ink jet color printer.

[@RJBWoodTurner]

Excellent tutorial Michael, I really enjoyed the video, tons of valuable info. I will recommend it to newbies like me when I get questions.Regards,Bob

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

+RJBWoodTurner Thank you Bob!

[@RJBWoodTurner]

Michael, Half way through the video question: When seating the tubes in the mold how do you keep from getting mold release on your fingers and transferring it to the tubes? My concern is the resin may not adhere if I get Stoner on the tube.Bob

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

+RJBWoodTurner a little release on the tube won't hurt. Resin shrinks as it cures, so there is a mechanical as well as chemical component to adhesion to the tubes. I would only worry if tou should happen to drop the tube into the cavity and get it covered in mold release.

[@johnsharek1849]

I’m a rookie so please bear with me. Is it necessary to use a pressure pot or will the resin harden ? Thank you.

[@wileygardner4320]

When cutting a label do you have a overlap

[@kandiecandelaria1423]

Do you make the labels on an inkjet? What paper did you use?

[@charlesmorel3176]

Need help On making the actual label Please

[@firebugjohn1345]

Is the label paper a waterproof paper or just the matte paper?

[@ronponder1737]

where did you get the shelf for pressure pot?

[@gpslost2068]

Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.

[@raygonzales8244]

Michael, I would like to start trying to make some clear label blanks. What software do I need?

[@markr.1584]

Where did you buy your molds? I can't find your link

[@baldwinsmith5879]

Thank you for posting your tutorial, very informative and helpful. I've subscribed and look forward to seeing more content.

[@joelittle8527]

Get video Mike. Will definitely use some of your suggestions in my casting projects. I am curious what labels do you use for casting? Also did you make the rolling jig. Thanks. Keep up the great work!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

joe little, I use weather resistant labels from www.onlinelables.com. Ptownsubbie also sells the rolling jig. Thanks for watching!

[@davehunter52]

Thank you Michael for the information. I have done label casting with alumilite. One issue I have had is keeping the seam from lifting. I have not tried the onlilne labels. Did you use the weatherproof matte inkjet or weatherproof polyester laser labels?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I use matte label stock from onlinelabels.com Item OL177, which is for inkjets.

[@charlesodom3761]

How much do u charge to do the blanks and what type Of pens blanks can be used ?

[@timbashforth185]

Great video! Does your label overlap when wrapped around the tube or have you cut the label so the edges butt together? Can you see the seam after casting?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Tim, There is a slight overlap of the label at the seam. Trying to cut it to the exact length around the tube would prove to be.... difficult at best. The seam is going to be noticeable no matter what you do, but you can minimize it's effect. On labels that are colored, I will wipe the edge of the label with a sharpie that is close in color to the picture. This eliminates the white line that would normally be seen at the overlap, and helps to blend the seam into the picture. Thanks for watching!

[@MrFlashback2]

Great tutorial. Where do you get the labels from?

[@johnpierce1720]

Great video, lots of good information!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

John Pierce Thank you!

[@josedelgado6510]

I was looking for a video on label casting and I saw this one , which was great. I'm going to try casting a blank w/my grand daughter's picture.. what paper should I use with an Inkjet printer...I'll be using (Liquid Diamond) any advise would be great..

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

HI Jose! First, as Liquid Diamond is an epoxy, make sure you get the appropriate mold from you supplier. I personally recommend ptownsubbie.com 's blue molds. For paper, I use OnlineLabels.com 's OL177 which is a matte label for inkjet / laser jet printers. To be safe, seal the label with a couple thin coats of CA. I'm not 100% sure that is needed with LD, but epoxy has no issue bonding with CA, so it's safe for you to try it. Thanks for watching!

[@josedelgado6510]

Hi Michael... I tried printing the picture for casting but it comes out to small.. the Epson software only allows for 3 sizes one to small and the others to big.. what program do you use to size your stickers?? it's not as easy as it looks... ;-(

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Jose, I use GIMP, which is an open source program that is very similar to Photoshop, but without the cost.

[@dougfreeland]

Hi Michael, great video! Count me among your new subscribers! I noticed at the 19 min mark the tray you are using to put items into the pressure pot. Any chance you could do a quick video on that tray? Looks homemade, and made out of HDPE? I have one I've made based on another youtuber but not my fav. Yours looks like it might work better.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

+Doug Freeland the tray is actually made by Fred Wissen at ptownsubbie.com it costs $40 and is worth every penny. Thanks for watching!

[@bobgast3493]

I just ran into this. Thanks for the video. The label sheets look like they are full size. Is there a tutorial out there somewhere on how to size and print the labels? I have a HP ENVY 4500 inkjet printer. Am wondering if this printer will work. I did buy some of the templates from Ptownsubbie. I also just downloaded GIMP but still have to learn to use it. I cast with Royal Palm resin.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Hey Bob, There's no tutorial that I know of. I print @ 600 dpi, so my labels are sized to match that. To calculate the width of the label, take the diameter of the tube and multiply it by PI then multiply by the number of DPI you are printing (Ø x PI x DPI). The height of the label can be calculated by taking the length in inches and multiplying by the DPI you are printing (L x DPI). I would print a test image on regular paper first to make sure it fits the tube. It's cheaper to waste paper than it is for label stock. Once the size is dialed in, I save a blank version of the label to start with. For example, I have a file called 'Blank Sierra 600 dpi" that I use to start all of my sierra style blank labels. I also keep a table of sizes in a spreadsheet for reference. Hope this helps, Mike

[@bobgast3493]

Thank you. I appreciate it

[@CrossCutCreations]

Excellent informative video! One day I would like to get into casting (when I can afford the equipment). I will definitely be using this video as a reference. Thanks, man!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Cross Cut Creations you're welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@walterdemeron990]

Great video, Question: Do you seal your labels after you print them?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Thanks Walter, With Alumilite, there is no need to seal the labels. If you are using Polyester or Expoxy, I would seal them with two very light coats of CA. Thanks for watching!

[@LynnLaceyLLWW]

Thanks Michael for a great video. One question that I don't think you mentioned, what kind of label are you using? Can you give a purchasing link? Thanks again. Lynn

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Lynn I'm using weather resistant label stock from onlinelabels.com Item number OL177 can be found here: www.onlinelabels.com/products/OL177WJ.htm?src=mp-442 Thanks for watching!

[@randyhenry8328]

Great video! Thanks, Where did you get your cutting guides and rolling jig?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Those both came from ptownsubbie.com , owned and operated by Fred Wissen. Stop by and take a look at his stuff, it's all great!

[@randyhenry8328]

Thanks, I will.

[@kevinrippeto]

What type of paper do you use for the image to be printed on and where did you get the jig you used for rolling the paper on the tube?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Label stock is from onlinelabels.com item OL177 The label rolling jig is available at ptownsubbie.com

[@robertm463]

Can you tell me which program you used to make your decals i'm new to doing this my daughters friend works for a roofing company and they wanted some pens made up but I did not know how to make the decal.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I use GIMP for image manipulation and Inkscape for vector based graphics.

[@071453Baxter]

Where can I buy the labels for printing on my inkjet printer ?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

onlinelabels.com item number OL177

[@jimkodysz5404]

Great video Michael!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Jim Kodysz thanks!

[@sycamorepencompany1663]

Thanks for the great info. I am just getting started in casting, so I'm open for any tips and tricks. ~Scott

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Thanks for watching Scott

[@LynnLaceyLLWW]

Great information Michael, thank you for the video.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Thanks Lynn!

[@allanallen8406]

Can you post the jig for putting on the labels great video

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Hey Allan, The jig can be purchased online from this link: ptownsubbie.com/products/tube-in-rolling-jig Thanks for watching!

[@allanallen8406]

Thank you for the info

[@robertpalmiere6179]

Lost River Wood Shop b

[@maryannrussell7255]

Where can I get a mold like that? Sorry just lost sound on my tablet

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

www.ptownsubbie.com - they have several to choose from.

[@jaybird8621]

Excellent tutorial Michael!!! I deleted my comment from earlier today and wanted to say I called OnlineLabels who will indeed sell even 1 sheet of the OL177. I had taken your advice and looked into the OL177 matte inkjet labels but wasn't thrilled about $65 for 100 labels. Call them, and they will sell you as many (or in my case) as little as you want. Great job and I can't wait to make my boss a going away present!!! This opens up even more ideas for creativity and personalized gifts for people (which is why I make pens primarily). You and @RJBwoodturner are great assets for learning!!!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

LOL - now you make me wonder what you posted earlier :) Glad you got something out of the video!

[@jaybird8621]

HAHA! I was being politically correct and skirting around the issue that I didn't want to pay $65 for 100 labels and asking if you ever did this with plain ordinary printer paper or labels. Yours truly, Jay, the eternal cheapskate. :-) lol

[@synergyjohnwv]

Hey Mike ... are u using inkjet to print your labels or color laser

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I use an HP Officejet Pro 8600 inkjet printer and weather resistant label stock from onlinelables.com, item number OL177.

[@pcbn2u]

This is exactly what I've been wanting!! Thank you. Can you tell me what label paper you use and is there an Avery or other provider template you use for printing the labels?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

I use full sheet labels from onlinelabels.com item OL177, and cut to size. theres no template that I use, I calculate the size of the label based upon the dpi that I use on the printer.

[@steveshubert4745]

Is it matte labels?

[@KevinGroce13]

Thank you sir for this awesome video. Really damn good.

[@dylskee888]

What a great video my friend, this is something I'm very interested in doing, but unfortunately I am disabled due to an illness and don't make much money. But I would love to know if you make any medical labeled blanks? Nursing, or hospital themed blanks? My wife is a nurse and I make a lot of nice pens for her and all the other nurses she works with would love a pen. I figured if I can find the right themed pen blank that would be great, if not I will try to find a way to make my own. My time is limited, so that is why I asked if you already made the blanks? If not, I will have to save up for the supplies and then there's the learning curve.... By then I could be making pens for Jesus and his crew! Thank you for a great video and taking the time to share!

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Thanks Dylan. I do custom blanks all the time. Reach out to me at [e-mail] and we can talk about your blanks.

[@markr.1584]

Excellent job.

[@blueblur6447]

Great video! Well thought out and presented. I feel I could do this now... However, im not that motivated atm so you are still my label guy lol

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Glad to hear it Daniel - you're a great customer, and I'd hate to lose you!

[@roberttill3787]

Good video but it would be nice to see the cured blank taken out of the silicon mould.

[@baseballboy2860]

Where do you buy your labels from?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Onlinelabels.com, item number OL177

[@paulsmessyworkshop]

Thanks for the great information.

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Your welcome Paul Thanks for watching!

[@thomasshunk7647]

Love the video, you included lots of great information. My question is how do you determine the size of the graphic that you use on the label? Are there set parameters that you go by for each style pen (e.g. length x width)?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

First you have to determine what DPI you will be printing at, as that determines the size of the graphic. Next, you take the tube of the kit, determine the perimeter around the diameter (2 x radius x Pi) and multiply that by your DPI (in my case I use 600 DPI). You'll want to add 10 to 15 to that number to give yourself some wiggle room for overlap at the seam. The length is a straight forward calculation - length of tube x DPI. You shouldn't need to pad this number, unless you see that your labels are consistently long or short

[@notwhereyouthink]

A superbly informative video and extremely concise. Just a pity you feel the need to keep apologising so much during the narration.

[@BB468k10]

great video , Thank you !!

[@deahnasdad]

Great video. Subscribed.

[@joeharney3802]

very informative video. Thank you

[@tearemsturnings8750]

very informative vid,ty

[@PhilCannonWoodworking]

Great information.

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Informative TFS "thanks for sharing" G :)

[@dannyward3781]

Great video. Really appreciate it Would love an email address so I can place an order with you

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Hey Danny, you can contact me at [e-mail] Mike

[@michelhajj8590]

Platinium Michael

[@nightcatbooks]

I'm new to casting in general and tried my first label cast a few days ago. Oddly enough when the resin cured, the label wasn't affixed to the tube. Not sure if the heat generated during the curing process did something to the label glue or not. Have you ever had that issue?

[@LostRiverWoodShop]

Yes - it's a common thing when you first start. It could be the label material you are using, the type of resin, and a few other items. Once you figure out what is causing it and adjust your process accordingly, it will go away forever.

[@enterprise59]

In the 70', 80's and 90's, I worked in an adhesive factory. You could NOT buy Acetone, M.E.K., or any type of manufacturing chemicals. I'm still today, surprised you can go to Lowes or HD, and buy these chems off the shelf. Hell we used to use MEK to wash the glue off our hands!