Pentair iChlor Diagnostic Mode & What it Means - Chlorine King Pool Service

[@boomskis4926]

I’m planning on installing one of these and it will be replacing a Hayward salt system. It’s all tied into an intelli touch panel. Never installed one before and wasn’t sure if I should go with this or the old IC40 I’m familiar with. After watching your videos and reading the comment section I’ve decided this will be a better option. Thanks for all the great videos. You’ve literally helped me grow my business this past year. Can’t thank u enough!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You're welcome Boom. Anytime. You can't go wrong with the iChlor. Take care!

[@stevelichtenstein8181]

Your videos are very helpful! My Intellichlor IC40 is reaching the end of its duty and I’m trying to decide whether to replace it with the same cell or go with an iChlor 30. Our pool is about 15,000 gallons. I don’t know much about Chlorinators but your videos are educating me well!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Hey Steve, so sorry for the late reply. I'd go with the iChlor 30. It has a lot more friendly user features; like being able to dial the percentage to a single percent and know what the salt cell is reading as far as the salt goes.

[@patrickt840]

Salinity in the pool is through the roof at around 7.5k but the salt generator thinks it’s at 2.4k. I was going off that trying to bring it up but it stayed the same. Several salt test strips indicated the 7.5k. What could be the issue?

[@josephrohland5604]

My Ichlor30 indicates the salt level is at 4890. Is this something I must correct? Also, my salt cell has minor calcium showing inside. Is it necessary to use acid to clean the calcium away?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

No you don’t have to correct the salt level. The Ichlor will work at 4890. An acid mixture is generally the best. If you take a pic or something sharp you could possibly scrape/damage the rhodium coating which is what allows the cell to work. Thanks for watching.

[@nicolenilsson3663]

Great videos. We cleaned the unit yesterday because it was not producing any chlorine, followed your video to a T but now we are not getting any light in the SALT area. The different diagnostic modes work except for the salt rate is not reading right (reads 1780 when in fact its 3500) and the cell voltage is also not displaying right. Any ideas on how to get this working right or have another video with this problem to share?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

How old is the cell? To me that sounds like the cell may be failing.

[@Itsceciliamarie]

Hello, what if there is no “flow” light at all, but everything else is green? Is that normal ?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes that is normal!

[@Itsceciliamarie]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService thank you!

[@alexsoto5406]

Hello, I have an Ichlor 30, after cleaning the cells (not my first time) the display says Cell and cell status light keeps blinking green. Also, when I run the diagnistics, the Voltage says 28, Temp is 83 F. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

[@LaFamiliaFamous]

Any idea what went wrong? How did you fix it?

[@alexsoto5406]

@@LaFamiliaFamous bas cells, needed to replace it.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

If it’s displaying “cell” that means it has failed and needs a replacement.

[@damienomen669]

What should the output be set at? I currently have it set to 100, but I have no idea what the parameters are for setting the output. In your video, it’s set at 40, but I’ve seen videos for the same unit where it’s set at 65, 80, and 100. I’ve seen tons of videos for doing the diagnostics, but can’t find any videos on properly setting the output.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

It all depends on the size of the pool, time of year, pump run time, batter load, heated pool and other various things.

[@damienomen669]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService do you have a guide for any of those things, or tips to get me in the right direction?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

@damienomen669 tell me about your pool and I can try to help.

[@Rugbystate9champ]

My generator won’t stay on more than 60 seconds. When I run a test, I’m at 4000 hrs, 89 deg, nothing for salt reading, nothing for voltage, but I do get a firmware #. I put in a warranty request but unsure as to why it keeps blanking and never coming back unless I reset the CB.

[@davidmoore5339]

I have one on my route that is saying the salt level is 1161 ppm. I test at 3200ppm (spintouch). I will take another sample to the pool store tomorrow. Is it possible the ichlor could be reading the level wrong?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

It is either more than likely dirty, the flow switch is going bad or the unit is starting to fail. Have you taken it apart and see if it has a lot of calcium build up? Once there is more than a 500ppm discrepancy and the cell is clean usually indicates its beginning to fail. Hope this helps.

[@davidmoore5339]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService Thank you. It's just under a year old and it's clean. Owner went through diagnostics today with pentair but I will save this video and repeat it again tomorrow

[@polishedbrother]

What does it mean when the display reads ( CELL) ?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

There's a bunch of reasons like low salt, phosphates (per their manual) and other things like that. Typically, however, it usually ends in a warranty replacement with my experience. Thanks for watching.

[@DanielaBarreraRivera]

My IChlor 30 don't say the salinity, it have H1. I was looking in the user's guide and i have no idea what's wrong.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Are you sure it’s not “hi” for hi salt?

[@Zhoutz21]

Hello! I have an iChlor 15. Nearly identical. My salt reading says 5500ppm. However when I test it with strips. It says 1900 ppm... any thoughts on further troubleshooting? System is 1.5 years old with no calcium build up. Thanks for the helpful vids!!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Thank you for the kind words. Question, when you're in diagnostic mode, is everything else where it should be? Are you getting a temperature reading? Remember, the cell (or electronic salt testers) don't read the actual salt in the pool. The have an algorithm based off of conductivity, temperature, things like that. So that's why I'm curious if everything else looks good. It's rare that a salt system will read significantly higher. Also, the salt strips can be bad. What is the lights on the cell doing during operation?

[@rebeccamccutcheon3935]

What is the word CELL is showing in green where the percentage is at? What’s the problem causing this?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Bad cell

[@rebeccamccutcheon3935]

We replaced it! On the new one the cell light goes green and off. And how often should it go into reverse polarity? Thanks for all your help!!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

@@rebeccamccutcheon3935 So when the cell light goes green and you see like a little moving square, that means it's generating. That light will only come on when it's physically generating. A quick test would be to turn it up to 100% and you should see it come on. Reverse polarity is a setting you choose, I believe it's either 3, 4 or 5 hours. I hope this helps!

[@feliomar]

Mine is reading out CELL in display it’s clean and not producing. Salt is 3809

[@louisehawkins2831]

Hello Chlorine King, I just viewed this video. My cell light is blinking green to red then sometimes blinks red? My cell is clean as well. I did the diagnostic and I'm not getting a temp at all. Now my salt is high right now and we are working to get that within range. After reading some of the other comments....do you think my flow switch is out? I just also had a water test and the chlorine was ok, but is my system making chlorine if the flow switch is bad? Our pool is 3 years old. I also just found and viewed the video for that also. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Yes you need to replace the flow switch. The great thing about the iChlor is even if the salt is high it’ll still generate. Yes it’ll make a small amount with the temp portion out but the salt reading will be off because the temp is factored into the cells thoughts on salt content which can lead to erratic production. Get it fixed and it’ll rock and roll.

[@stephenward237]

Hi Thanks for the video. I have an ichlor30. It is already on its 3rd flow switch it is only a year old and has 63 hours on system life. All lights flashing. From the menu it only displays the system life and temp. All others are blank. What could be causing the issue ? Thank you in advance

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

It sounds like the flow switch again. I’d contact your installer and see if you can get a factory cell replacement. Could be something going on electronically inside the cell causing premature failures in the cell/switch. I hope this helps.

[@stephenward237]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService Thank you

[@bobbaran7350]

I just decided to quit my job today. It hurts. But i did that based on one of your videos.. I do not like sacfricing quality for quantity. I would like to apply at your company. I feel like there is so much more to learn.

[@bobbaran7350]

Im in Pasco and my name is Bradley. I do have my CPO

[@bobbaran7350]

you can reach me at [e-mail]

[@bobbaran7350]

or 727--326-5793 I realize its weird to ut a phone # on a youtube comment

[@theserasmus]

Hi.. Can we change the titanium blades easily..? and How.?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Not that I'm aware how. However, I've never attempted it or tried the source the parts. I hope this helps!

[@ericviele4379]

Thank you. Great video

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re welcome.

[@snakerog]

Hello, I have a Pentair IChlor 30. It has just over 1100 hours on it. It has quit producing chlorine.When I put it in Diagnostic Mode, the voltage is only reading 20.1 volts. Of what I've seen and heard, the voltage has to be at least 22 volts for it to work correctly. Any ideas as to why the voltage is only 20.1 volts?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Is there a temperature or salt reading?

[@mikicin111able]

I have IC40 and my salt light is red. I added one bag and light didn’t change, I tested using strip and took sample to local pool store and both read high 4900. When running diagnostics cell life shows 20% temperature shows 60. Cell is clean and shows no build up. What could be the problem

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

How old is it? Any idea what the water temp is? It sounds like it could be starting to fail.

[@mikicin111able]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService water temperature is 63 degrees. I called pentagram support and they said it’s flow switch, I just installed it and still have same issue. FYI while in diagnostic mode only flow light is on and sanitizer output is on

[@mikicin111able]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService and I’m not sure how old it is I’ll say at least 5 years

[@mikicin111able]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService also every so often I get big white clouds coming out in the pool, I’m guessing that’s when chlorination turns on

[@christopherlarsen9710]

WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN MY ICHLOR 30 DISPLAY WINDOW READS FLO, AND I CANNOT OPEN DIAGONSITICS BY PRESSING MORE BUTTON IN FOR 3 SECONDS, IN HAVE RED FLASHING LIGHTS

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Try holding less. In the box they come with a sticker label that’s “reversed” for unique situations. That means that the buttons are opposite then. Sounds like a bad flow switch or a very dirty filter.

[@christopherlarsen9710]

@@ChlorineKingPoolService it was very dirty , all has been cleaned twice and still no change in the display screen or the red lights

[@harvey0402]

What does it mean when all led lights go out?

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

Either the cell is bad or the fuse in the power center is broke.

[@RonTrovato]

amazing invention

[@brianrizzo3301]

Why the Blinking flow light

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

It's communicating with an intelliflo/intellipro pump or automation.

[@debbiesparks99]

I just installed an IChlor30 today and I can get to the diagnostic menu when I hold down the less or more buttons, but these buttons will not adjust the output %. Any tips on how to do this, it is defaulted at 55% and I was told it should be at 70-80%. Thanks!

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

If you’re just trying to change the output press and release either button quickly and it’ll start blinking. You may have to press firmly. Just don’t use your nail. Use the pad of your finger only.

[@mannyamenta5566]

Thanks for the info👌

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@chadstern201]

If the cell light is flashing green to red and the cell is completely clean what could be going on? It percentage circles like it is generating but is no. My salt is good and flow is good.

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

That means the temperature switch has failed. It's part of the flow switch so you'll have to replace the flow switch assembly. They have a new switch with only 3 wires versus 4 (old style). It's a very simple process. I have a video showing you how to switch it out. Thanks for watching!

[@chadstern201]

Thanks boss appreciate the reply

[@ChlorineKingPoolService]

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!