Petzl Neox vs Edelrid Pinch Comparison Video

Рет қаралды 7,843

Northeast Alpine Start

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 32

@charlieg4113 2 ай бұрын

Informative video, thanks. The mispronunciation of "Edelrid" hurt every time, but the content made up for it 😅

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

@@charlieg4113 oh no I’m so bad with pronouncing certain words. This revelation is quite embarrassing. Thanks for letting me know, now I’m thinking about going back back to re-dubbed this whole thing LOL

@mikebartholow 26 күн бұрын

I can’t take it seriously

@mikebartholow 26 күн бұрын

@@NorthEastAlpineStartpretty weak

@somanayr 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for covering both of these devices It’s hard to tell, but it looks like at 1:38 your fingers are under the device. If you take a look at the pinch manual, it illustrates that only your thumb should touch the device The grigri payout has a similar slack giving method, but only the thumb and index finger contact the device, and the index finger contacts with the side of the finger under the lip on the side of the side device. This keeps your grip strength sufficiently weak that you are not able to overpower the cam during a fall (which is possible! Check out Hard Is Easy’s videos where they test out the grip it seems like you’re using)

@swoopinRich Ай бұрын

This is the review I've been looking for. Thanks!

@NorthEastAlpineStart Ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

@alexambro4998 Ай бұрын

Such a nice video, super informative, no chit chat. I love what you have done, if I may, in the future I suggest putting time stamps if possible

@NorthEastAlpineStart Ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind comment and helpful suggestion! I actually thought during this video I need to learn how to do time stamps and your comment has motivated me to figure that part out for the next video! Thank you!

@mwiz100 25 күн бұрын

This is super excellent. I just heard about the Pinch and I've been digging around for reviews. The Neox is also equally interesting and for me I really like the idea of adding auto-camming for my lead belaying but I've always felt the Grigri to be... odd and I always felt there was room for improvement. Now it seems the market has caught up and is giving us some new design options.

@NorthEastAlpineStart 25 күн бұрын

I’m so glad you found this helpful!

@treybowers3453 2 ай бұрын

Great review!

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

Thank you!

@thatonefeller3375 2 ай бұрын

I suspect-can't say for sure, haven't even seen a Pinch IRL, let alone used one-that there's nothing particular to the Pinch that makes it okay to use for lead belay direct off the anchor (FPLB) compared to a Grigri or other ABD. The traditional wisdom has been not to use ABDs off a fixed point for lead belaying because they give a harder catch than a Munter, which will translate to higher force on the anchor. The thing that feels plausible to me is that, yes, of course an ABD is going to transmit more force to the anchor, but that what Edelrid is saying is that on unquestionably strong bolts, those higher forces are unconcerning with regard to the anchor, and that a hard catch is better than no catch with regard to the falling climber. In other words, if the Pinch is okay for FPLB, I think the same must be true for a grigri. What do you think? I've got a Neox and I'm pretty lukewarm on it so far. I think the thing it's good at-lead belay on a single pitch or in the gym-it is VERY good at. I love it in that use case. But the truth is, to my climber, I'm totally adept at giving a good belay with a grigri so it makes no difference to them. And I dislike the tendency of the neox to backfeed when toproping or belaying a second off the anchor. The grigri is lighter and, IMO, more versatile and while the experience of giving that super smooth lead belay is wonderful, I'm just not convinced I want to bother with a device that's so niche. I also don't necessarily trust that a neox would catch in that magic hypothetical scenario where I get incapacitated by rockfall, or a heart attack or whatever. A grigri just gives me the warm fuzzies more. I follow you on Insta too-I really appreciate your content and con tributions to the community. Thank you!

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for the kind words. Yes, I think I agree with you that while the Pinch is the first to "approve" FPB with the device other devices would likely perform the task well. I actually think the "back-feeding" of the Neox might allow it to give a great FPB.

@gravyblue 2 ай бұрын

I like, with a Grigri, to put it on the rope, close the side and then clip it to my harness. This is relaxed and comfortable. I found with the Pinch that using it without a carabiner to be awkward and fumbly. With the Neox it feels like it won't catch when abseiling. I can load a Grigri, swing my legs over the edge and be confident that it will be catching. The neox feels like it won't . I very much like belaying with the Neox.

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

It definitely took me a few minutes to get comfortable with the open and closing action of the Pinch. Since I have 20+ years of using a GriGri which opens exactly like a Neox it makes since the GriGri/Neox still feels less “new” then the Pinch but I’d encourage you to practice with the Pinch for 20 minutes. It didn’t take long for me to build the muscle memory to use it as smoothly as a GriGri/Neox. I’m not sure why you feel the Neox won’t “catch” while abseiling? The wheel is locked during that mode and to me it feels exactly like a GriGri.

@gravyblue 2 ай бұрын

@@NorthEastAlpineStart I Love the Neox, The lack of trust is pre weighting, as it's so slick, it feels like the rope is going to just slide through, whether it will or not, I'm reluctant to test!

@MISSYTHEPITSKY 19 күн бұрын

what rope u running I have black diamond 9.9 looks just like yours also I want 1 of these devices mainly for repelling from top rope solo as of now my favorite repelling set up is dual 9.9 with and atc and a third hand I'm a heavier climber and this is the perfect amount of friction for me witch device would u recommend that would be similar to my atc set up thank u so much the video was awesome it can be hard to find good gear geek content awesome job !!!!

@NorthEastAlpineStart 19 күн бұрын

That’s the Mammut Duodess! I love it! Great price on it right now here backcountry.tnu8.net/XmYd1a

@LeftCoast_TomP 2 ай бұрын

Very well done concise review. There is one Euro guy who reviewed the Neox and made a big deal of how it made clicking noises when pulling slack (under a bit of a load?) I struggle with how to pronounce Edelrid given the number of ways an E can be sounded out in English out but this guy pronounces it more like Elder-rid ..... pretty sure that is not it.

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

@@LeftCoast_TomP I noted the clicking sound in my review of the Neox too… it happens if you are not actively pulling slack on the load side as well. Not a big deal IMO but it is noticeable. I think I mispronounced this because I’m also a fan of the Elder Scrolls. Thanks for the comment, I tried to be comprehensive and unbiased in this is comparison!

@larsandersson5974 5 күн бұрын

Nice

@Dashcam_cam_videos 11 күн бұрын

What a great video. I love Neox. The pinch looks like a phaser from Star Trek. Both devices are well made.

@paulmitchell5349 2 ай бұрын

Edelrid or Elderid ?

@NorthEastAlpineStart 2 ай бұрын

Ugg I am so bad at pronouncing certain words correctly. The correct would be Ed-el-rid and I've said it like 100 times after it was pointed out that I was saying it wrong. Hopefully I get it right in the next video!