Phase Converters STATIC TYPE

[@RogersFixItBarn]

I have had a Phase -a- matic mounted on my bridgport for 47 years and it is still working fine.

[@KB-----2023]

After spending 2 hours on youtube videos, the old school, old timer solved all my problems! Thanks Mr. Pete, you're a rare breed.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@billwalck1324]

Always a thumbs up and this time no exception. Any 3 phase motor will run on single phase current, it just won't self start or deliver full rated power. The "idler" in a rotary converter is by no means idle. Any AC motor works by the interaction of the field coil magnetism and the magnetism induced in the armature by currents in the armature due to the field magnetism, Evidence of this, at least for us old guys, is when you started a motor years ago, the lights would visibly dim until the motor came up to speed. A similar effect occurs in the un-energized field coils of a 3 phase motor running on single phase. The magnetism in the armature induces a current in the un-energized coils, which we can employ to operate other 3 phase motors. All that has to be done is to start the "idler", which can be done in a variety of ways. The older static converters usually employed a capacitor bank to change the relationship between voltage and current in an inductive load like a motor. This, modified current Anybodycoupled with the original current, is enough to self-start a 3 phase motor. It is not a true 3 phase current, like a rotary, but it is entirely functional. Then we come to the VFD. This is relatively recent technology which, I understand, employs the metal-oxide field-effect transistor (mosfet) and computer controlled switching to literally construct any number of circuits in any phase relationship and any frequency. Fabulous technology, all digital, making lots of inroads in industry and generating spinoffs that we can employ, and it just keeps getting cheaper, and more powerful. Similar technology handles thousands of horsepower in modern locomotives. Anyone who considers pure research, especially industrial, a waste of money, or that our best days are behind us, like the maga crowd, better get their head on straight.

[@gwheyduke]

Good information. I have a box about 11 X 8 inches that I hooked up to my South Bend 10 inch lathe to get it to run on 220 from the house. It works but is slow to start and the lathe doesn't have much power. BTW I flew the Tri-Pacer up to the Florida Flywheelers show on Wednesday and walked around for hours in the heat, Didn't see you. Wow that's a very big show! Best Regards maybe next time!

[@mrpete222]

Over 220 acres

[@infoanorexic]

I purchased a Ronk static converter, it had been used in the area high school until they got three phase run to their shop. I use it, mainly, to run my DoAll surface grinder. It utilizes two motors full time. I tuned the converter to be balanced with both motors, but I have to start the spindle motor first, then start the motor to the hydraulic pump. The spindle motor circuit controls the relay that switches the start capacitors in/out of the circuit, so it always has to be running before the pump motor. Once the spindle motor is up, it behaves enough like a rotary converter that the second motor can be started without problems. This particular breed of static converter does use a transformer to generate the "wild" leg power. An amp meter is needed to tune it in to the machine, which is done by changing the tap from the transformer and adding/removing capacitors in the circuit. A relay and a second bank of capacitors provides the "umph" needed to start the (1st) motor. The converter is a "pass through" type, so, once I move a few wires around in the control panel, I'll be able to use the mag chuck without the spindle running. The mag chuck uses single phase, and still has the old tube type converter, so I'm not risking using it without the spindle motor in operation ... that can make setting up a rather tricky operation. When I know the mag chuck is off of the "wild" leg, I'll be able to get rid of a hazard. I've used the Ronk to run my old drill press, but I can't do that as a stand alone. I have to tie the surface grinder in, start the spindle motor, and then I can run the drill press. I intend to find a similar size/amp rating motor (to the grinder spindle motor) to use as a mule, that should bring the converter into balance enough to run other machines (like a rotary converter) without having to re-tune it or run the grinder. My other machines have, or will have, motors of similar hp/amps to the grinder pump motor. I don't anticipate any problems, time will tell me if I'm right. It's not an ideal setup or plan, but I run only one machine at a time, and it's better than nothing.

[@ellieprice363]

Sounds like you’re busier than a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. (:-)))

[@stevebosun7410]

Thanks Mr Pete, I've just learned a whole lot of stuff that has often had me wondering about phase converters and VFD's. Simply explained and easily understood.

[@littleshopofelectrons4014]

Good video. I use a VFD on my Sheldon lathe and a rotary phase converter (RPC) on my Supermax milling machine. I like the VFD a lot because it is quiet, small, and has variable speed. I used the RPC on the mill because it already had a variable speed capability with the Reeves drive. The lathe only had speed adjustment with step belts and gears so I used a VFD for that. Its very interesting how a RPC works. The idler motor acts simultaneously as a motor and a generator. The capacitors primarily only serve to start up the idler motor on single-phase power. One thing to know about a VFD is that it is not a total substitute for step belts or gears. By using the step belts in combination with the VFD you can maintain good power at all speeds.. If you just rely on the VFD and a single belt or gear setting for all your speeds, then you will lose power as you lower the RPM because you have lost the torque multiplication supplied by the different sheeve or gear combinations. I select the sheeve combination that gets me closest to the speed that I want. I then use the VFD to supply speeds that the sheeves cannot. Of course you get the other advantages of a VFD such as soft-start and dynamic braking if you so desire. If you don't do heavy cuts then a VFD without step belt changes may supply plenty of power. One final technical note for those interested. The equation that relates power, torque, and RPM is: HP = (torque x RPM)/5252. This shows that when torque is reduced at a given RPM then power is also reduced. This explains why a VFD is not a total substitute for the sheeves and gears.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks 👍👍👍

[@gretah3969]

The output torque of the motor also decreases as you deviate from 60hz (or 50hz in some countries), the line frequency. The farther away from the line frequency, the greater the decrease in motor torque, i.e. 55hz or 65hz might give you 90% torque while 20hz or 90hz might give you 30% (just random numbers, the actual value depends on the motor). Another thing to keep in mind is if the motor is fan cooled, the lower the rpm the less air the fan will move across the motor which can lead to overheating issues especially since you tend to place a greater load on the motor at lower spindle RPM (larger workpiece for a lathe/larger cutter for a mill and deeper depth of cut). This is also true, but to a lesser degree, when you increase the motor RPM over the rated RPM since fans tend to be designed for a specific RPM range, but you tend to put less load on a motor at higher spindle RPM (smaller workpiece/cutter and shallower dof) than at lower spindle RPM. And as you pointed out, using a VFD to for all speed changes doesn't give you the mechanical advantage that pulley/gear ratios would. So, as you said, it's best to use pulleys or gears for large, coarse changes in spindle speed and use the VFD to fine adjust.

[@longcaster]

Mr. Pete, excellent demonstration on low voltage 3 phase. You covered several ways to do it. I want to remind you about some things I saw in both videos. In the first one, you showed several black wires going through a gray painted sheet metal panel. Those wires should be bushed. Wrapping some tape around the wires will give some protection while you get the right bushings. Also look at how tight the wire clamps are on the converter with the red painted board. They are tight enough to hold the wire without crushing the insides. Look at the ones you tightened are over tight. And if you are going to have wires going into the box be without the outer jacket at least bush the hole, or wrap some tape so you protect the wires from the sharp edges of the boxes.

[@renaissanceman7145]

The VFD I bought caught fire the first time I tried to use it. That $1 Phase-a-matic was one heck of a find!

[@trialnterror]

I had a phase a matic that never worked. I now have a phasemaker 9hp rotary phase converter, still running 8 years in the making.

[@thedirtyknobs]

Why did it catch fire?

[@renaissanceman7145]

@@thedirtyknobs I can only assume it caught fire because it was a Chinese made piece of crap. I followed the manual to the letter and double checked everything. Was running my Bridgeport with a Phase-a-matic, never had an issue. Changed lathe motor to a 3 phase, wanted 100% of the motors HP so got a North America Phase Converters 5 HP rotary which runs both mill and lathe with ease.

[@cwebs1000]

Hi Mr. Pete. I am running TWO machines on ONE static converter. Been doing so for close to 40 years now. My understanding is the static converter is only need to start the motor. You can't start 2 motors at the same time but one after the other. They are rated by horse power and as long as one of your motors is not over the limit your are good to go. Thanks for your vids, Carl

[@m16ty]

Yes, you are correct about running more than one machine on a static. When you start the first machine with the static converter, it turns that motor into a rotary converter (the machine motor acting the same as the idler motor in a rotary converter). The control box of a static converter is basically the same as the control box for the rotary converter, where the rotary converter controls start the idler motor, the static motor controls start the machine motor.

[@cwebs1000]

@@m16ty Thank you m16ty.

[@zMuddaFkka]

Thanks Mr. PETE. I found this to be very informative!

[@Radiotexas]

Very informative. When I bought my Rockwell 9 x 36 lathe it had the 3 phase motor in it. Rather than buy the converter, I bit the bullet and bought a new single phase 240 volt motor. The Rockwell lathe has a built-in variable speed control as most of you know. I think the motor was $250 from Grainger. My new CNC router (wood) has a VFD with a spindle... works great. But Mr. Pete has presented some very valuable information especially for older commercial machinery. Love the VFD on the little South Bend and the drill press!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@boxcutter0]

I’m guessing you would get better performance & durability from your motor with quality 3-phase however.

[@tommaragos2764]

Mr Pete you have no idea how many times I end up watching your videos as I get my lebond lathe and enco knee mill set up. I cant imagine how much good you have done for the entire home machine world. You are an absolute Gem. Love the Starrett Love shirt haha!

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very very much, spread the word

[@johnolsen7073]

Thanks Mr. Pete. I have a large workshop with 1ph power, bought a 100 amp rotary converter at auction, way more than needed power wise, for lots more $ than you did. Plan to run a 14 inch lathe, a milling machine and tool grinder off of it. Thanks for all the videos they are very informative.

[@jameslezak8179]

Great video Mr Pete! ! I bought a 1973 Clausing 15" that had a static converter installed on it. Worked great until you tried to turn it above 1000 rpm. Had to feather the clutch to achieve the higher rpm's and the machine just sounded like it was laboring. It worked ok with the collets but not the 3 and 4 jaw chucks. I found a Phasemaster rotary on craigslist, 7.5 hp, and Wow! Runs like it's supposed to now! I also switched my 3 hp Kingston mill to the converter and even bigger Wow! The 7.5 hp Phasemaster will run 15hp total simultaneously with 7.5 hp being the maximum size motor allowed. I mounted the phase converter on some soft rubber casters so I can move it to clean around the machines easily, and the casters isolate the converter from the floor. I don't even notice it! Just my long 2 cents worth! Thanks for your time and sharing Mr Pete! 👍😎

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@obfuscated3090]

I strongly second using casters and also did my RPC. I mostlyuse round shank 1.375" scaffolding casters with 8" wheels (and bought a stick of pipe to make mounts aplenty!). My air compressors are castered along with some machinery moving dollies (I don't pay riggers and my dollies bolt on making them far safer than dangerous machinery skates, I made them to roll onto my car trailer).

[@ChimeraActual]

In my previous shop I had a static Phaseamatic running my old Bridgeport, it ran fine, but then I found a three phase motor for cheap and turned the Phaseamatic into a rotary phase converter. There are instructions on the Interweb, and possibly here on KZbin. In my current shop I have four three phase motors all running on their own VFDs. I've sort of fallen for the VFDs, there is a learning curve, but once you've figured out one of them the rest are easy, especially if you stick to one brand, My first was an Hitachi, relatively expensive, but the rest are Huan Yang, $100 -$200, and Amazon has some VFDs listed in the $50 range. Research them carefully, get the right size, but beyond that there are lots of choices. For example if you need dynamic braking (for really quick stops) make sure it supports an external resistor. You can also mount a control panel where it's convenient, well away from the VFD and motor. Thanks, Mr. Pete!

[@JamesDedmon]

On my Lagan I use the same setup as you have on your Bridgeport. Basically wired the same way. Never had a problem.

[@ThePaulTyrer]

I've had a pull start with rope 3ph motor in use as a converter for 20 years. Another additional step to wind the rope and pull..

[@SuperBowser87]

3 times better than a single phase video !! Good info Pete and thanks

[@NBCRGraphicDesign]

I have been running a Hitachi 1hp VFD for over 10 years. I mounted it on a wall with a pigtail on the output end and run either a 15" disc sander, an edge sander, or a UniDrill with it. I can only run one at a time and always power down the VFD before swapping machines. Variable speed on all 3 of those machines is helpful..... Plus it is a phase converter

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@jamesstanley9839]

Thank you Mr.Pete,very interesting! We enjoyed the video!

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Your ,gifted 9c was really done up nice by the man in FL. We have the same VFD on lathe and Mill and love them. Thx for taking out time to do this presentation Lyle.

[@whitecaps775]

Thanks Mr. Pete. Static lasted about 1 year on my Bridgeport. American rotary and it runs several machines. not to load either.

[@fernanjs]

I have found VFDs to be the best solution for generating 3 phase for machinery 5HP and under. The speed control aspect cannot be overstated and the jog feature is extremely valuable when tapping. Not to mention the programmable acceleration, deceleration and braking features. Just remember that VFDs need to be oversized when generating a 3rd leg - usually by a factor of 2. Most cheap Chinese inverters are reasonably reliable when oversized in this way.

[@G1951-w1y]

Most informative Mr. Pete. I considered a static converter when I got my Bridgeport but finally went with American Rotary. Very satisfied with it.

[@danbreyfogle8486]

Another very well presented video. In a former career I learned all about VFD's and could quote chapter and verse on the specifications. But I never saw one installed, typical for a sales guy, eh?

[@pauljarvis7259]

Looking at your Walker Turner drill press reminded me of my vintage Delta drill press that I inherited from my father. He was an electrical engineer by profession and rigged up the Delta with a surplus DC motor running off of a butter box full of selenium rectifiers and a Variac. Great speed control, but no torque at low speeds. It's still running flawlessly after 70 years. I have a DC, ex-US Navy grinder with the same setup.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@johnm840]

Had good luck with Automation Direct for VFD's for home use and also have bought them for Commercial Jobs. Just an option, they have good documentation as well. This can help if you buy a different vendor. First one of these I bought was a Boston Gear, bought 2 for a spare and still got spare on shelf covered in dust.

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀

[@ggreenlee19]

Thank you for this informative video, you explained this very well.

[@rogertaylor1589]

I have a Baldor VFD on my Millrite Powermatic vertical mill. I find significant loss of torque at the low end of the VFD frequency range and still have to move the v belt to optimize low end torque. The static converter on my Harrison 13 lathe is a Phase O Matic and works great except it does not provide enough starting power to operate the lathe at the two highest speed ranges. It is properly sized for my motor according to the literature provided. As you pointed out, my rotary converter operates the cold saw, iron worker, and horizontal band saw. Just wanted to relate my experiences, Thanks for the great information Lyle.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you Roger that is interesting to know

[@jjbode1]

Your experience with these phase converters will save more than one person a lot of money and mistakes. Thanks!

[@garthbutton699]

Thanks for this informative post on rotary and static phase converters now all I have to do is find a used Bridgeport🤗😎🤗😎

[@CapeCodCNC]

VFD is the way to go. Static converters make your motor run hot, slow, and at 60% power.

[@edl5074]

I have a vfd on my bridgport and an American rotary on my jet 12 40 lethe .I hated changing pullys on the bridgeport now its set in the middle pullys and off to the races lol

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@anvilhead0]

The biggest trouble with static types is having to adjust them for motor power, that is if you run different size machines on one converter. For instance, if you have a large machine, fitted with a suds pump, if you stop the lathe or whatever, but leave the small suds pump running, it will burn out pretty quickly, also you need to make sure you have your true phase connected to your start switch, otherwise it won’t energise the coils in it.I wouldn’t use anything other than a vfd ( digital inverter) these days, they give true three phase, and if your limited power wise, they will start a huge motor, bringing it up to speed slowly. Of course the other advantage is being able to run at any speed, without changing belts.

[@gregsadkins]

Very helpful, thank you! I am curious about what seemed to be a high pitched whine coming from the drill press and SB lathe using the VFDs...

[@stilyou]

“…I would flip that on with my foot and it was that extra step that I did not like…” I got it! 🤣 Too funny Mr Pete!! 🤣🤣🤣

[@mrpete222]

lol

[@123232ism]

I've been using the TECOs for a few years now without any issues.

[@bcbloc02]

Funny when you fired up that vfd I started looking funny at my machine running in the shop because I thought I had a bearing locking up. 😂

[@kevinjohnson5214]

Man I used to think grandpa Munster was cool, but it looks like you're basement is as good or better thanks for the video keep up the good work...

[@cliffordfender1159]

Lyle, my eye is on that die filer over by the wall there on the floor. Thanks for a great watch, Cliff

[@floridaflywheelersantiquee7578]

Thanks Mr Pete learned a lot

[@monteglover4133]

One of my static phase converters came from Craig’s List it was about $20 Frequently drives are becoming competitively priced and provides true 3 phase power and full horsepower

[@Siskiyous6]

For my Sheldon Lathe I found a 110 Static Phase converter for $100.00 that will run the 3 phase 220 volt motor on the lathe. I was a mazed, and am very happy with it. I do have 220 right there where the lathe is located. But, for the price I took a chance. It adds infinite speed adjustment too. It can be reversed, but I use the mechanical reverse, on those rare occassions, so I don't have to change the settings on the VFD.

[@robsharisky9163]

I bought mine from lost creek machine. But not sure if they still have them.

[@obfuscated3090]

Worth noting is you can build static phase converters for MUCH less than they sell for retail. They're dirt cheap to make with very few parts. I like that simple RPC. The builder using heavy gauge SOOW cable obviously did so for durability and of course low resistance. Power equipment should always be over-spec'ed because surprises happen and being able to power more than lightweight motors often useful. Those who have outdoor shop areas can place RPCs outside their building the way many do air compressors, beneath a shed roof or full shed as desired to dispose of the noise issue. Static converters while not as versatile as VFD can be (like RPCs) cheap to build for yourself. I suggest anyone curious try all three since the only one you have to buy complete is the VFD which is no risk since the speed control aspect would be worth the money on a lathe or mill. It's usually easy to score large three phase motors cheap and building a larger RPC is the same amount of effort as a small one. Mobility can be useful for people with shops they plan on expanding or want to rearrange easily when they add a machine. I put my RPC on a frame with large industrial casters for easy movement about the shop depending on the project. RPCs can power transformer style welders (I've not tried it with an inverter welder) which lets you buy used three phase industrial welders cheap used. Most hobbyists and many small businesses only have single phase power so used three phase-only machines often go cheap, and overkill on a welding power source is a very good thing.

[@mrpete222]

Thank you very much for that advice

[@bardmadsen6956]

Maybe I misunderstood, but I turn the power off as the transformer is a phantom power draw. Mine has a little light on it to remind me to cut the power when not in use.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

I sort of prefer static phase converters. Thanks for another interesting video.

[@chadstrutzenberg9171]

I have a few friends that live in Flanagan. Are used to go that way a lot when I lived in Pontiac

[@eiserntorsphantomoftheoper2154]

I want to power a South Bend 17" Turnado Lathe. It has a 7hp three phase motor. I am a retired machinist and ran this model for 10 years. It had Bausch and Lomb DRO, Dumore grinder, soft Jaws, steady and follower rests, taper attachment, etc. I will just be doing light stuff. No hogging. I have 100 Amp 240 volt single phase in my 30 x 40 shop.

[@dougpersell8776]

I built a rotary converter and it works great its not a big deal to turn it on i use it mostly for a 20" american lathe but 3 years ago i bought another 20" american lathe with a single phase motor . The single phase lathe is alot nicer to use just because i dont have to go through that extra steep.

[@4GSR]

Slapping your pointer at the motor... To get the class attention!!!! Still have that teacher in you!!Lol!!! Got my attention.😁😁 My dad and I built our first static phase converter back in 1974 with help from a Popular Mechanic article that was published years back on building a phase converter. Dad had a electrician at work give us a few pointers on wiring it up. Couldn't get the potential switch to work correctly, so we added a extra set of contacts to the A-B push button. When we started, we just held the push button in until the motor got up to RPM and let go of the button. Worked like a charm. At that time, we were powering a 3 HP motor. Later, we used that motor, when running, powered up a 1-1/2 HP two speed motor on a Gorton mill we had back then. Amazing how 3-phase voltage can work! Since then, I've built several static converters over the years, two were for powering 10 HP 3-phase motors. Last fifteen years, I've gotten away from static converters and been using VFD's. I like them better for what I use them for. Especially for the mill. I do have a portable RPC that started its life as a static converter but is now a Rotary phase converter. It can be used either way, just unplugging the pony motor. It's good for powering up a 7-1/2 HP motor, static, or 5 HP with a 7-1/2 HP pony motor. As always, thanks for sharing your video. Ken Oh, I forgot to mention, anybody that has a central air unit in your house or even a older window unit, They have a static phase converter built in them for powering the refrigeration pump in them! Most of us have never given it a though. Most HAVC technicians don't even know that! These have been used ever since the 1940's! How about that!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@davidbramel345]

Very informative!!!

[@InssiAjaton]

I may confuse the issues mor than clarify, but I like to point up a couple of things from electrical point. The rotary converter actually consists of a static converter providing power to the 5 HP motor. The converter is dimensioned for that 5 HP. You can use simultaneously additional motors as long as you don't exceed some 50 or 60% of the total power of 5 HP and also don't actually have any load on the shaft of the 5 HP motor. So, you have the big motor idling, consuming just something for its own cooling fan. In other words, the static converter is TUNED to the big motor and adding some small motors does not affect thew tuning too much. On the other hand, the small static converters you mentioned as good for only one motor is because they are tuned to the small motor. The big motor idling is used as a buffer with a certain range of total additional motors tolerated before the tuning range is exceeded. Or I might say that your claim of the "oversize" 5 HP is actually just what your other motors need!

[@dcraft1234]

Can you hear the high pitch whine on the Walker Turner vfd? If so, there should be a setting for "carrier frequency" or some such in it that you can raise to make it inaudible.

[@Rstifleable]

I watched your video and liked the information you provide. I have a question for you. I have several old drill presses as well as others in my little machine shop. They are all old machines and all run on single phase right out of the wall socket. I want to upgrade them to 3 phase and I would like to be able to control the RPS’s. What, in your opinion would be my best option? Thanks

[@mikecarpenter719]

Is the VFD on the little lathe really single phase 110 volt input ? That set up would be great just plug it in to any 110 volt outlet and you have a three phase motor with variable speed running your machine.

[@bluetoad2001]

the little VFD lathe is pretty cool👍✅☮️😎

[@ductorman]

I thought part one was impressive, but part two just amazes me. I am waiting on a 5 hp motor to make the rotary type. I have a question about the 5hp one you replaced.. You mentioned the pulley was there for a pony motor which is what you need to get the rig going. Did you get it rewired with a start capacitor and relay?

[@bruceanderson9461]

No pony motor needed. It will start on its own. My guess is they left the pulley on to make one aware of the rotating shaft as it serves no other purpose.

[@simpleman283]

I give you a 👍 for the magic nail trick.

[@sbuzz5889]

you have a mass of dup tools. wish i had more. helps me to find em! with multiple items. are they upstairs? in the shed? in the cars? or at the church?

[@bluetoad2001]

Smith bros make or did make converters here in North Missouri

[@W4BIN]

In order to build you own rotary phase converter you must start with a three phase motor that is one to two more HP than your load * and a large capacitance is required just to make the three phase motor start (and run) on single phase power, but it must not be allowed to start off in the wrong direction. That extra box on the back side of Mr. Stewart's H. M. converter most probably contains relay/s that connect or disconnect other parts or connections once the motor is up to speed. (with time delay relays) The system is simple, but the capacitance must be chosen based on the inductances of the motor and the currents involved. * I have not seen the formula for this calculation. Ron W4BIN

[@varmint243davev7]

If you are going to switch a VFD on the output side, like the setup on the lathe, you need a much larger capacity VFD than the motor HP. It is recommended in the VFD manual not to do that and to control it from the VFD or external controls connected to the VFD inputs. I have both setups in my garage shop, one for the manual Bridgeport and one for the CNC Bridgeport.

[@richardbrobeck2384]

Great Video lots of great info.

[@stevewilliams2498]

Lyle. I haven't heard you confirm the output voltage of any of these devices. It is my understanding it is possible to use 3 phase power in 220 volts and over hear at least we have most 3 phase applications running on 440 volts. My rotary inverter not only creates the ghost 3rd phase but also steps up from 240 volts to 440 volts

[@SerenityMae11]

As an electrical engineer in daily life, I have to admit that many of the examples shown in this video are textbook cases of how NOT to DIY machine wiring. At the same time, Mr Pete has been running his equipment this way for longer than I've been alive. To each his own, I guess. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed it as always.

[@paulshermet535]

mrpete222. I have learned a lot watching your show all of the time from Ontario Canada. I have an old Atlas 10" lathe, with a worn out lead screw which I get bye with. However, the only gears I have are: 2 of 64 teeth, 1 56 tooth and 2 20's. The only thread I can cut is 16 tpi. Do you know where I may be able to buy more gears for other thread pitches at a reasonable price? I actually succeeded in cutting a nut and shaft with that pitch without ruining anything.

[@mrpete222]

eBay or a donor lathe

[@libertarian1637]

As an electrician I have installed phase converters, buck converters (Transformers); while some motors (typically 12 lead/wire) can be wired for both single and 3 phase I have to disagree that 3 phase power can’t be run to “residential” as most electrical supply companies will run 3 phase power to residential addresses. A 3 phase electrical service will cost more than single phase as 3 phase needs 3-4 wires for service, depending on whether it’s wye or delta; if you’re out in the country with only a 2 wire run then 3 phase will be something you won’t have access to but in cities and any area with 3 wire systems 3 phase is achievable even for residential. I personally have high leg 3 phase delta at my house which provides an ability to drop sub panels with (2) 120V legs and has 240V leg-to-leg; just be aware with high leg delta one leg is 240V to ground and if you use it for standard circuits you’ll have a bad day. I live in NY and work in NY & PA and in both states 3 phase is available to residential at both 120/208 & 120/240, though in our area typically residential addresses get high leg delta as it gets you 240V leg to leg which most consumer electronics prefer. Phase converters are definitely cheaper but nothing beats getting true 3 phase as it opens up so many more options and while the cost is more initially adding equipment is much cheaper.

[@mrpete222]

Thanks

[@herbholmberg4474]

Years ago, I acquired an 8" B-Line (Baldor) grinder. At the time, I did not notice that it was 3 phase. I have never been able to bring myself to part company with that grinder. I wish I knew what kind of phase converter I need to make use of this grinder. I will admit, I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to do it though and I suspect that is what it would cost me to make that happen.

[@mrpete222]

The static converters are an expensive compared to the dynamic ones.

[@herbholmberg4474]

@mrpete222 would a less expensive dynamic type work for a bench grinder Mr. Pete?

[@t.d.mich.7064]

What does one do when your machine has a motor requiring 440 volts 3 phase? I notice everything you highlighted was 220 volts 3 phase.

[@mrpete222]

Rewire the motor according to the tag. To the lower voltage

[@bwyseymail]

Yes, most 3 phase motors have 6 leads to a teminal block and can be wired either in "Y" of "Delta" configuation. I forget which is for 220 and which is for 440.

[@simguns8388]

It's 15 flag (full load amps) so it only draws that at a full load.

[@larrybostelaar9233]

Do you have or would it be possible to get a list of parts and values needed to build one for a 20hp 3 phase motor

[@waynethomas1726]

Hi Mr. Pete, I have a question for you. I'll explain the situation first. My air compressor is pretty well wore out and was a bit underpowered to be doing sandblasing as it was. The compressor still runs but I don't use it very much or very hard. We found a three phase monster of an air compressor but I didn't know how it would preform with a phase converter. I was concerned that at 3/4 of the power to the motor it could maybe generate too much heat but really I just didn't know enough about the topic to be able to say, "yes it will work fine" or not. I've not seen a vid about phase converters as they pertain to air compressors and wondered if you knew how well they function together or If you had any experience with that? Thanks buddy!

[@mrpete222]

Sorry, I have no experience with air compressors. I would think that you would need to buy an oversized, excess capacity phase converter. But that is just a guess

[@waynethomas1726]

@@mrpete222 That's ok Mr. Pete, maybe someone else will see this and answer it.

[@dizzolve]

14:15 is there any downside to using over sized cable in this situation? Obviously wasted money but ......

[@mrpete222]

No downside

[@57WillysCJ]

It's funny they won't bring 3 phase to your house as many farms in Illinois had it. In Wisconsin the price to install is based on the distance to the nearest 3 phase transformer.

[@rodan2852]

"Now ill push this thing back under the stairs for my widow to deal with many years from now" 😂

[@grumpygord]

If you put your amp meter on the home made rotary converter you will find that it is not drawing anywhere near 14 amp. That is full load amperage and you have no load so it is only a couple of amps. The absolute cheapest way to run three phase is just to wire your load motor in parallel with the idler motor and start the idler motor with an auxiliary motor or even a pull cord like a lawn mower engine. Once the idler motor is started you can then switch on the load motor. Not very efficient but it works. I have built several phase converters over the years using capacitors and a relay.

[@mickestahl6178]

It's funny how it differs between Europe and USA. We have 3 phase everywhere at least in Sweden where I live. I have my main load at 400 Volt 3 Phase 32 Amp and that get me 240 Volt 1 Phase or 400 Volt 3 Phase. In my garage I have 2 outlets with 400 V 16 A so I can run quite heavy loads with that high voltage. In US you have lower voltage and only single phase and you need to have 2-300 Amps instead. It works and I will not judge what's best but I sure love to have 3 phase ready to go from scratch.. Even my solar system have 3 phase inverters that take 1000 V DC to 3 phase 400 V AC.

[@myungyounelectronics3036]

Good video. Thanks a lot.

[@gregdawson1909]

I love the concept of a VFD, and its light years ahead of the old "static" phase converters, but my Tinnitus votes rotary.

[@jzrgrmm]

Can someone explain why it is so hard to get three-phase in US? Where I live, above 50A it's all three-phase by.

[@terryhunt4324]

Matt and Jason up in Ottawa sell them as well.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@christurley391]

Thanks for the video.

[@silverbullet7434]

Lyle ya may want to release the belt tension on the south end lathe. The leather belt will stretch otherwise.

[@trialnterror]

I mounted my switch to turn on my rotary phase converter right next to my switch that turns the Bridgeport on.

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@DRNewcomb]

Mr. Pete, technically 220/240 VAC is not "single phase" but rather it's "split phase" since there are two phases, 180º apart each of 110/120 VAC relative to ground.

[@angelramos-2005]

Can a 220V VFC run a 400V 3Ph motor,or do I need a transformer?.Thank you.

[@jb11547]

Angel, they make a variety of models with various input and output voltages. You will want to get one that matches your need for output voltage. You probably don't want to drive a transformer with a VFD, as transformers are usually designed for a very narrow frequency range; usually a single frequency like 60 Hz. (You could burn out the output of the VFD.) Besides, a VFD + transformer will likely cost more than just getting the correct VFD.

[@bwyseymail]

Most 3 phase motors have 6 leads to a teminal block and can be wired either in "Y" of "Delta" configuation. I forget which is for 220 and which is for 440.

[@angelramos-2005]

@@jb11547 Hi John.I appreciate your kind answer.Let me tell you that when I bought my D-bit grinder GH 20T model,I chose the 3 Phase and 400V because it has more power than the 1 Phase and I already had a VFD .So far the grinder runs fine with theVFD but not at full power.Thank you for your help.

[@angelramos-2005]

@@bwyseymail Hi,yes but looks like is more 400V or 600V and I don´t feel is something that I want to do.I appreciate your help.

[@bestfriendhank1424]

Do you ever cause your bride upstairs to get upset over the lights dimming?

[@mrpete222]

First of all, my wife never complains about anything. And secondly I don’t think the lights dim at all, and certainly probably not very much

[@dannywilsher4165]

I subbed to mrpete222 before I finished watching the first video many years ago!

[@mrpete222]

👍👍

[@angelzapien3568]

Can I connect 3 motors to that????

[@mrpete222]

I never tried it, but I doubt it. But you can only run one at a time.

[@lathammarx1458]

The pricing on VFD to take 220V single phase to 3 phase, is very reasonable now. 2HP 220V vfd is under 300$

[@mrpete222]

Thank you, I actually thought it was much cheaper than that

[@pamike4873]

Oh they'll run 3-phase to your house/shop no problem. They'll charge you to run the 3rd line. It's not cheap. I was quoted $75K per mile. As you can imagine, I bought a phase converter.

[@MrAvjones]

I'm glad I'm not paying your light bill.

[@antanasv2642]

Great video. Too bad garage sales are only about used diapers around here :)

[@trialnterror]

Little early?

[@bwyseymail]

"Single Phase 220 volts" I do not know why it is called that but it is wrong. "220" is actually 110 volt/2 phase. Check it out yourself. If you have 220 use your multimeter and check each leg to ground, it will read about 123 volts. Then check it between legs it will read about 208 volts. Why doesn't it read 145 volts? Because the 2 phases (each phase is the sine wave that is AC power) ( out of the 3 phases that are generated at the power plant) are out of phase by 120 degrees and not 180 degrees.

[@lathammarx1458]

They are under 100$ for some brands but a quality one is about 250$

[@mrpete222]

👍