Photography Tips: Incident Lightmeter or Camera Meter

[@tw9535]

(1) Incident light meters give detailed information that can be used in creating lighting with multiple lights (including ambient/artificial flash mixtures) that is predictable, consistent and repeatable when used with exposures set in Manual mode. (2) Incident meters provide different information than what reflective meters like the meters built into cameras give. (3) Meters can range from the insanely convenient (Sekonic L-308) to the amazingly versatile (Sekonic L-758DR). Anyone who has no need for (1), no understanding of (2), or no appreciation of (3) need not bother themselves with them. Personally, I absolutely love them.

[@MikeBrowne]

Agreed +Wilson Newman - MIKE :-)

[@tw9535]

Mike, I guess at the end of the day I just enjoy the process of scouting, visualizing, lighting and metering without a camera being involved. I just enjoy it that way. And that process most DEFINITELY involves the inclusion of incident measurements (as well as spot and flat). The camera can join the party later. At the end. When its job is simply to capture what has been laid out in front of it. (The same as any other camera of whatever brand and whatever model number would be asked to do.) I most definitely tip my hat to all of the incredibly talented people who engineered and programmed my camera. As well as the 3.x-inch screen on the back of it (that will be viewed under varying ambient light conditions). But those talented men and women from the 3.x-inch screen crew have just not become a CRITICAL part of my process, no matter how much I appreciate their engineering and programming skills. Yes, I realize that people made my light meters, too. But, hell, one of my meters is so old that many of those people are probably already dead by now. So in a way, I am honoring the dead. As the saying goes, different strokes for different folks.

[@hm-jt3os]

I've stumbled across this video and comment in my search for lighting and exposure information. I'm shooting a commercial soon, and was trying to figure out how a light meter would help me get 3 camcorders in different angles to have consistent looks. If either of you have recommendations, they would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[@BlackLabAdventures]

I have watched all of your "Light Meter" videos and they are the best! Thank you for taking the time to put them together!

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you, glad it helped - Melissa pp Mike :)

[@iaingeoghan2548]

Jazz venues that I go to are always a little different. I have realized now why my shootin' grew even faster as I was desperately trying to keep iso low whilst shooting. Because I am spotting the crap out of different light levels and areas in different clubs and I have no choice but to use my brain. Then when I step outside, my brain is becoming better at recognizing the tones! It is bloody easy like Sunday morning!!! Following the Kelly Green Trio has lead to fantastic practice at watching light, really looking at it; if I don't spot Kelly, the histogram looks completely different to when I do spot her. Sometimes the place is brighter and I will meter off of the bass or or drum set, starving for mid-grey. The other part of this brilliant way of practicing is clothes; Kelly Green is beautiful and a total nut. Dunno if as much, or just plane even to Mike here. She has a sparkly jacket that is a pain in the hole to meter, then sometimes it is a black shirt.....you get the idea. "Her boys", as she calls them are fairly steady. Alex always in a black suit, always lookin' SO fine. Hyde can sometimes have a more vibrant shirt or tie that I have to be careful of. Yes, I know I may be blowing out the background a bit, but I am getting better at keeping it dim and not completely dark. Always looking for pools of light for the camera to pick up and it helps. One example here (don't judge too fast as this is one of the trickiest lighting set ups to work with) : flic.kr/p/23KzTWM , I spot metered off of Alex's bass as I dug around for mid-grey, and it worked as I was exposing (trying to at least) for the tenor saxophonist who was playing with the trio that night. Poor Evan is almost pitch black and Kelly....well her head has a hot light right on her and is not too bad, but the piano sure as shit is black, and then Alex is lit up like a Christmas tree, the bass about in the middle and then the horn player is sort of evened out; more or less. Example two is a fun one: flic.kr/p/25e9t6W bass player and a trombonist sat in. She was remarkable! I vividly remember being a monkey and using the reflection on the table from the little candle to even out the exposure. Spot metered off of that when I felt I had found mid-grey there, held the exposure lock button down and tilted the camera up and focused on the trombonist and bang, I thought it worked as everyone was somewhat evened out. Maybe not in focus, but exposed fairly evenly. It is an on going battle. As I mentioned before, when i pop outside I will set the camera back to evaluative metering and it is unbelievable how much quicker my finds tones. Once and a while I will use my incident meter, and it is incredibly, scary accurate. For most of the time I will work with the camera's reflective metering and everything is peachy dandy:)

[@d00mPatr0I]

Splendid video for those who find metering a bit tricky. Once again Browne you delivered in an entertaining way and easy for viewers to follow.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks - MIKE

[@tonycasey5205]

You're a legend,,,,,,,,,,the understanding you are giving us on light is just brilliant,,,,,,,thank you from amateurs in Ireland

[@MikeBrowne]

thank you Tony! please do share the vids too so we can make more! - Melissa pp Mike

[@debbieslizoski8904]

I wish I'd found your videos earlier! Metering is something I totally struggle with and this video is remarkably helpful! Most importantly, I love that you're educational without being remotely condescending or narcissistic!!!

[@MikeBrowne]

glad you have found us! thank you for the kind words - Melissa pp Mike

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Debbie. Gad we're helping. Please share any vids you like with other photographers because it helps me make more of them... Mike :-)

[@debbieslizoski8904]

You got it! :)

[@Noahronquillo]

As usual an informative video, Thanks Mike.

[@tectorama]

(Alan) .....I bow to your vastly superior knowledge Mike. I take all of my pictures in Manual mode, and rely on the camera meter to a large extent.Most of my pictures are of wildlife or sports, where a separate light meter wouldn't be any good at all. A little different if if you are doing portraits or landscapes. It's also one more thing to carry around. I can also see how they may have been useful back in the days of film.

[@MikeBrowne]

Hi Alan. They are very accurate but indeed not very practical. I haven't used one on a shoot in years. The point of this vid was to demonstrate the difference betwen ambient and reflective light readings. Knowledge is power and when we know that difference we know we can't just take the camera's word for it... Stay well buddy... MIKE :-)

[@pccchurch]

I love that you always tells photographers to "think" instead of mechanically relying on equipment. Great video and pictures as usual.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks +Peachees - MIKE

[@tonytarquinio6439]

Well, this has been a real education for me. I was under the impression that Incident Light Meters were pretty much limited to studio work. Many thanks, Mr. Browne. Tony

[@leehargreaves7473]

Another great coaching session. "Think, think, think" is probably the best advice you can give. I'm in a life-long struggle not to take photos of just anything. Digital makes it all too easy/free to blast off hundreds of Hard-Drive fillers. Now I try to use your "Think, think, think" approach and take a moment to ask myself the key question, "Would you honestly want the image you can see through your viewfinder hanging on your wall?". If the answer is "Yes" or "Probably" then I ask myself what I want the print to look like. That drives the technical aspects of aperture, shutter speed, ISO and focal length..etc. I'm fairly confident in the technicalities of a camera, it's seeing the picture that's the key. I have a proven track record of producing perfectly exposed boring photos. Maybe I should limit myself to 36 shots a weekend, a virtual roll of my old Kodachrome. (25 ISO Kodachrome forced you to think it through).. I'm surprised we don't bump into each other. I was down for a try-out session at Calshot Velodrome one morning last month, saw the beach-huts, had my trusty Canon S120, so parked the car and took some shots. It was a combination of my 2 favourite KZbin "coaches", Mike Browne's beach huts and a "Gavin Hoey" panorama. I'll probably just miss you down at Bucklers Hard next.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you Lee. Composition and light was my biggest challenges when I was learning. The technical camera stuff came pretty easy for me but it took several years of practice before I finally got what was needs to make the pic look great. Keep going and do what you suggested, Attitude to learning is the most important thing and your's is great. I was at Bucklers Hard Saturday evening - did we just miss each other? - MIKE

[@nramca]

The great thing about most of your videos is it forces you to think and come up with some wonderful ideas.. Thank you Mike

[@MikeBrowne]

My pleasure Nirmal - MIKE

[@PostColorGear]

This one for some reason reminds me of your older videos Mike. Loved it.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Dave - MIKE

[@gordonclifton2694]

I've just started using my Sangamo Weston Master V to measure incident lighting. I bought it in 1966 with a manual Yashica JP. Now using it with my EOS 80D having kept it in a draw for years. Excellent results, no guesswork in tricky situations. Just like the old days!

[@MikeBrowne]

You've just given me an idea for a video Gordon... Thanks. MIKE :-)

[@robwalker651]

Hi Mike as always a great piece of food for thought but a camera meter is set to mid gey or 18% grey so unless you are colour blind it is very difficult to know where to meter from especially in spot meter mode but a good way of visuallising it is if you open an image in photoshop or whatever you use and convert the image to b%w then open a 50% gey layer and resize it you can check for the mid grey tones and your brain gets to seeing the mid tones and if you keep checking the b&w image against the original it really helps and since i bought a meter and just walk about with it checking light it really helps.Oh btw meters can be pretty inexpensive i bout a polaris from sbay for £30 it does flash too.

[@rhodes1948]

I think your the best teacher of photography I've come across ....

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you heaps rhodes1948! - Melissa pp Mike

[@paulcrockett6852]

Excellent Video as Usual! very helpful.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Paul - MIKE :-)

[@Didereaux]

All these years and I hadn't tripped up on the dilating pupils thing! That was cool....and useful.

[@stephenwhited1833]

Ever since I got my Sekonic 398 it has really upped my game. I shoot mostly portraits that are printed out right away with no retouching so I have to get it right. That little Sekonic has made it so much easier and faster. Your vid is great it gave me some more ideas!

[@MikeBrowne]

Very sorry we never got around to commenting at the time!

[@robingrant8082]

Excellent explanation Mike, thank you.

[@MikeBrowne]

You're very welcome Robin

[@RobinWilkinson]

Hey Mike. Great video. I had thought that walking right up to a subject and using the camera's light meter the same way you use a hand held meter would yield similar results, but now I understand the difference between incident and reflected metering. Thanks!

[@Andreassavvides78]

very good video thank you . i have mirrorless camera with histogram and zebras do you think that light meter will be useful ?

[@MikeBrowne]

Not really Andreas. Provided you know the camera's light meter is not quite as accurate, you can make allowances to correct exposure when you need to. I don't use a hand held meter unless measuring studio strobes... MIKE

[@pauld7522]

Great perspective on metering different situations. Just one more tool to use in the field.

[@waynebritton5596]

Hi Mike - Many thanks for yet another very helpful video. I note this came up shortly after our discussion of exposure with old prime lenses on DSLRs. The light meter app I mentioned was useful. My dad was a professional photographer and used manual light meters for years. As for me, I had been relying on the camera's own metering. Even in the old days I used to use the SLR's TTL meter. Have to say though, I find the modern DSLRs better to work with. Thanks again. Wayne

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Wayne. I hardly ever use a hand held these days except for the rare times I need to meter studio flash. I think the cameras meter is plenty good enough for most people provided they remember it's a starting point and they have to adjust exposure away from what the meter says sometimes - MIKE

[@Rupert88888]

People have this crazy idea that a hand held light makes things difficult. Having knowledge of your camera dynamic range and what to expose for makes everything simpler. All cameras built in light metering cannot rival the hand held device. It takes 5 seconds to take a reading against 5 mins in Lightroom trying to correct exposure.

[@MikeBrowne]

Completely agree with you Colin. Learn how to use the camera's reflective system and it's fast and easy. Apart from making this video i only use the meter for setting up studio lights about once a year, if that... MIKE

[@slimnics]

I am new to handheld and i find it not a problem, it is fun to learn about light.

[@fgom4101]

It takes 1 second to use Lightroom Auto correction feature, it takes a dummy to spend 5 minutes for exposure correction.

[@hankypanky9380]

Great video, very helpful..... thank you

[@moblues2b1]

Awesome tip! 👍🏽👍🏽 Thanks Mike for all great videos. 🤓

[@prabhakarrao4922]

Excellent presentation. Thank you

[@Mrdilakh1]

I haven't had a drink in ages :D

[@MikeBrowne]

It's actually true Khalid - I rarely drink alcohol :-) MIKE

[@aphovi]

Khalid Assakour a

[@fielding68]

You have a great way of explaining things which are complicated, and making someone like me understand. Thank you for your time and expertise.

[@MikeBrowne]

No worries +David Croft. Please continue helping me make more like it by sharing them with other photographers on forums, Facebook, ClickASnap, Flickr etc. - MIKE

[@Surge1045]

Nicely done!!!👍🏻

[@MikeBrowne]

Sorry we never got around to commenting at at the time!

[@mrgood56]

I really like how you explane this things, and I am from Sweden and still have no problem understand whaty you talking about :D

[@anthonyhazlewood5788]

Good video, makes you think more... Thanks Mike

[@markharris5771]

Another excellent video Mike. If you were in this situation for a client would the answer not be to expose for the background and use fill flash? I know this video was about metering and not flash so my question has gone on a bit of a tangent. Sorry if this question has already been asked but I'm staying in a very remote cottage in Wales with very poor internet so can't read all the comments.

[@MikeBrowne]

Hi Mark, sorry i missed your comment... I'd shoot it as it is in this video because the client would have seen what I do (my style if you like) and I do this kind of thing all the time. If they didn't like it, they probably wouldn't have booked me. MIKE

[@aceseightsazhvacsparkyandg8138]

Great show love the the simple way you put it ! Thank you

[@MikeBrowne]

No worries Brian Leabo, we are here to help you guys learn photography - MIKE :-)

[@petermoeller5901]

This is an excellent video. Very good overview about exposing techniques and tools and how you use your "brain", the most important tool. Your model has a cute smile...

[@aurelienani5927]

thanks. Could you tell me if those $199 meters can just show the amount of light in lux? And do these things also show the color temperature (kelvin) or are those only the more expensive? Thanks.

[@MikeBrowne]

Sorry Aurelie Nani - I only know my sekonic and minolta meters and neither of them measure in LUX. I haven't heard of a light meter that also measures colour temperature so I suggest you call a specialist store or do some Googling... Sorry can't help with that one - MIKE

[@fotobum1952]

Great! tutorial Mike. Lighting seems to be the most important aspect of photography. My photos have improved greatly since i've been watching you.

[@MikeBrowne]

thank you, glad you find it helpful - Melissa pp Mike :)

[@mrca2004]

I use a sekonic 758 with strobes and a background light and a 308x for location with no strobes or no bg light. The 308 is pocket sized, allows me to set aperture and get shutter speed as I am more concerned with aperture. But when I worked as an event or wedding photographer in fast paced situations, I always spot meter/focus from the same spot. I know that caucasian skin is about 2/3 stop brighter than a meters middle gray reading so I spot just below subject eye, move the meter to 2/3 to a stop brighter than dead center and back button focus. Takes longer to say than do. Exposure is dead on, and the critical focus on the eye is nailed. I don't carry a gray card, I have a "white card" I never leave home without... my palm. Spot meter on it in same light as subject, add 2/3 stop light. If subject is not caucasian, EVERYONE'S palm is the same tone. Have them hold up palm next to their eye. If using a split prism focusing screen the vertical fingers give nice vertical lines to align. When I shoot medium format film that used to cost $3.50 per shot when lab developed, I followed the carpenters adage, measure twice, cut (shoot) once.

[@MikeBrowne]

Nice one Bob. We all have preferred way to work, all that matters is we get the results we want. Thanks for sharing.. MB 🙏😊

[@jonpowell8503]

Great video again Mike. Question, where did you. Get that wrist strap for your camera? I’m really fed up with the strap that came with the camera, it’s a right pain! Thanks

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Jon. Yep, I hate camera straps too... It’s a Joby Wrist Strap. Link below... MIKE joby.com/dslr-wrist-strap

[@ishka8835]

Thanks so much for this tutorial, been struggling with these complications for ages

[@GuitarSlinger2112]

4:50 in you take the spot meter from Prau? (sp? sorry!) and it gives you shutter speed and aperture, but what about your focal length? f/5.6 on an 18mm focal length lets in a heckuva lot more light than f/5.6 on a 50mm. Is that something you set on the meter before taking a reading?

[@MikeBrowne]

Hi GuitarSlinger2112. The reading is after the lens so it allows for that... MIKE

[@jaredjds2011]

6:53 bahahahahaha I think I laughed way too hard at that lol! thanks for the laugh Mike!

[@MikeBrowne]

Happy to make you smile Jared - MIKE

[@kuunami]

I felt like Captain Jack Sparrow was teaching me photography.

[@Larstig81]

This is a good one, because I was struggling with the light today. I was today at an outdoor museum(Zuiderzee museum) and it was a sunny day, the interiors of some building were sometimes dark with few lights. In some buildings there was warm light from light bulbs and cool light from the windows and it was difficult to get the warm light with the shadows on the picture. I uses multi metering with aperture priority mode. I managed to get to capture the warm light with the exposure compensation below zero. I use the Sony A5000. But I guess I should used the spot metering or the center metering. An incident light metering is not something I got.

[@tonytfuntek3262]

Thanks Mike, great video. I still at times use my old Pentax spot meter for landscapes and a Sekonic 358 for portraits. By shooting RAW it's just a few tweaks if any in LR to dial it in perfect. Keep the videos coming. Thanks again

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Tony. Please continue helping me make more like it by sharing them with other photographers on forums, Facebook, ClickASnap, Flickr etc. - MIKE

[@MrHeliflyguy]

Another great video mike, thanks. You have been a massive inspiration for me over the last 2 years and you have led me to rethink the way i take photos and improve no end. I hope i can attend one of your workshops in the near future. Keep up the fantastic work.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you - be great to meet you some day... MIKE

[@WiltshireMan]

Great stuff Mike. I haven't used an incident light meter for years. I still have my old Gossensixon but it is so old now you can't buy the batteries for it any more:(

[@MikeBrowne]

Ha ha - I have a Gossen LunaSix in the cupboard still. And there are things about having a needle as opposed to digital display which I like, especially when metering interiors. TBH I haven't even seen it in about 10 years but great old meter - MIKE

[@punapirate]

Great vid... Packed with useful practical information Very well presented... with no um's and ahhh's Very professional... Mahalo brother.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Michael - MIKE :-)

[@michaeldidomenico7]

Mike another question, I always shoot a mixture of RAW/JPEG, but for my next trip I am thinking of just shooting in RAW. What is your opinion of only RAW.

[@MikeBrowne]

It's whatever works for you Michael. I only shoot RAW because I want to have control over what my final image looks like. The downside is the many hours of developing but many photographers love that bit. - MIKE

[@Иван-й4к6х]

Hi Mike, I just got a Sekonic L-478D light meter and trying to learn how to use it. One thing that confuses me is the fraction value after F stop (for example: 6.33). My Nikon D7200 camera is set up for 1/3 step and so is the Sekonic L-478D light meter. So, if the light meter shows me the value with the fraction, should I ignore the fraction number? Or, should understand a fraction as a “step up” and shoot with the F7.1 stop when in see on the meter F6.33 ? Please explain me how to deal with the fraction value. Thank you very much in advance. Igor.

[@MikeBrowne]

Hmm, I don't think I've ever seen that on mine. It just says the shutter speed and f-stop number so can only guess at what the 6.33 number you mention is. If anyone can help out please comment.... MIKE

[@Иван-й4к6х]

Hi Mike, thank you very much for replying. I sent two questions to the Sekonic support/sales. Please see below the answers from Sekonic regarding fraction values for F stop and Shutter speed when using the Sekonic L-478D light meter (set to 1/3 steps). ========================================================== From Sekonic Corporation in Japan: You may ignore the 1/10 stop value, but if you want a more accurate setting, please use this 1/10 stop value. If you would like to set this 1/10 stop value into camera properly, it is better to set closer aperture value including one tenth of the aperture value. For example, when L-478D and your camera are set 1/3 step, If the F stop is 6.3, and one tenth of the aperture value is indicated as 3, it is better to choose 7.0 for suitable exposure of camera. Please set f: 7.0 into your camera. Because "3" of one tenth of aperture value is closer to next step of aperture value than this step of aperture value. Of course, if the F stop is 6.3, and one tenth of the aperture value indicated as "0 or 1", it is better to choose 6.3 for suitable exposure of camera. Please set f: 6.3 into your camera. When one tenth of the aperture value is indicated as "2", it means just middle of 6.3 and 7.0. ========================================================== (Second question: about the Shutter speed fraction on Sekonic L-478D light meter) When I get a "T" value with the fraction. For example T 60 /2 or 60 /3, Does it mean I need to use T 80 ? Answer From Sekonic Corporation in Japan: That is right. It is better to use T 80 for more accurate setting, if the meter shows T 60 /2 or 60 /3. ==========================================================

[@Magnetron692]

Hi Mike, thank you very much!

[@MikeBrowne]

You are welcome!

[@alanmck5382]

great video Mike and fantastic information delivered simply.....well done and what a great model too...:-)...

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you, she is - MIKE :-)

[@alanmck5382]

lucky you my friend...lol

[@joseluisbruna4792]

Thank you Mike for your videos. I always enjoy watching them :) Greetings from Chile

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you - Greetings from UK - MIKE

[@jimhatch3091]

Thanks, Mike I like your humour and very educational

[@chandraprakashmogha1745]

can we also use the gray card for correct exposure reading for the incident light

[@MikeBrowne]

absolutely! - Melissa pp Mike

[@Connor_Dempsey]

Great video Mike

[@FAMUCHOLLY]

Another EXCELLENT video...

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks - MIKE

[@silvercat151]

I still carry and sometimes use my Gossen Profisix with my Canon 5Ds. I used it when I shot with a 5x4 camera and with my 35mm film cameras years ago. Gossen make great light meters.

[@Nesawill]

thanks Mike , usefull and informative, brill

[@BrianMarcWhittaker]

I like and admire the teaching style. Encourage students to think.

[@MrDaveB123]

Love the video I am totally sold on getting a meter, Especially when wanting to do shoots with off camera flash sooo much time saved

[@gvidotto]

Thank you for such an informative video - very helpful!

[@londonfoto]

Great video Mike, where was it shot?

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Sheradon Calshot near Southampton, UK - MIKE

[@ridderus]

This video made me by a lightmeter :) I work in daylight most of the time and living with the histogram (Expose to the right) And this video proofes that working with a lightmeter looks very professional LOL ... Thanks Mike :)

[@garym3407]

Hi Mike, thanks for your tutorial on light meters I found it very informative. I am thinking about getting a Sekonic L-308S Flashmate would it be any good for metering landscapes using the reflective mode or would my Nikon D800's in built meter do the job better? Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Gary, The sekonics are great, I had one but lost it somewhere, hence using the old Monolta. Personally I don't think there's much point buying a hand held meter to use in reflective mode when your camera already does that - MIKE :-)

[@TheyCallMeJesse]

Thanks Mike, well explained.

[@wildflower20102]

Another great video. Very informative.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thank you - MIKE :-)

[@Oozywolf]

Actually really loved that overly-bright photo. Looked awesome with all the white that was already in the photo. Looked straight out of a magazine or something!

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks - MIKE

[@zvonimirtosic6171]

Yes, that how the magazines make photos taken in Scotland that look like photos taken in the Caribbean. They are creating an idea of a place by manipulating exposure and hiding the revealing details.

[@broncokonco]

Does the light meter take into account the fact that each lens is a little different, and even at the same aperture one lens may let in more light than another? I've used some lenses that are almost a full stop different between the two at the same aperture.

[@MikeBrowne]

No it doesn't, though I've never had a problem with this. like the camera's mater, it's a starting point and it's up to photographer to adjust as needed - MIKE

[@bublt4me]

I found that I work a lot faster with spot metering for the skin and adjusting compensation based on skin tone. Haven't pulled out my light meter in a while.

[@MikeBrowne]

And that's what's great in photography, we all have our preferred way to work and so long as the results are what we want, they are all the right way to do it. (Been a while since I pulled mine out in public too...) - MIKE :-)

[@mds19238]

As a new subscriber, I must tell you that I really enjoy your videos and teaching style...thank you. I noticed that you used the camera's spot & evaluative metering and only the incident meter of the light meter and was curious as to why; wouldn't the light meter's (looked like Sekonic) spot metering be as or more productive? Again, thank you.

[@ericgeorge5483]

Touch of genius. Thank you.

[@KenTheoriaApophasis]

at 9:30 you stick your incident dome skywards and take a reading. You should consult the experts of light meter use and Sekonic, and Kenko and every incident meter maker on earth why that is the absolute WRONG thing to do. cheers

[@Marckymarc71]

Он не делает это правильно!

[@MikeBrowne]

Why is that +Theoria Apophasis ? - MIKE

[@MikeBrowne]

или неправильно по этому вопросу - MIKE

[@markharding44]

Thanks for pointing this out Ken but instead of just asserting it is wrong why don't you actually be helpful and explain why it is wrong. You tell your audience on your own channel, which I watch every day BTW, that you are here on KZbin to be helpful but your (multiple) comments on this video are far from helpful and appear to me at least to be more like bitchy spitefulness, I am genuinely shocked and disappointed. Mike's channel has been an invaluable resource in teaching me photography (as has your own) his videos are well produced, he's an excellent teacher (which is rare) and he doesn't pimp gear it's all about the skills needed to get great shots sure we can all agree that is what it's about. So I ask you once again why was he wrong pointing his light meter to the sky? I want to know. Also from a previous comment why does it matter what light meter he is using?

[@Marckymarc71]

Mark Harding Whenever you take an incident meter reading in direct sun you always need to mask out the specular dot of the sun from hitting the dome of the meter. Otherwise it's going to throw off your meter reading and you'll underexpose by about 2/3 of a stop.

[@MNanabhai]

Excellent Video as Usual! Keep it Up Mike :)

[@kreygscott]

Great Video Mike. I use spot metering when exposing for skin tones and center weighted/evaluative when shooting landscapes. I also check my histogram in preview to ensure I don't have any blown highlights or clipped shadows. KreygScott

[@MikeBrowne]

I'm like you +praktical and use the histogram because unlike our eyes, it never lies - MIKE

[@kreygscott]

So true.

[@m.b.8671]

Thank you Mike!! You always make me laugh and I've learned a lot from you. ;)

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Myriam B - you're welcome... MIKE :-)

[@SalwanJBinni]

Hi Mike! thanks Always for your wonderful KZbins...just wondered if using the EVF can be more handy given that it takes almost no time to see what the result is going to be in advance? I'm asking this as i intend to buy a camera with an evf instead of the one with the traditional OVF that I'm using currently...I think that the one you used in this episode is a Fujifilm with an EVF... right? so what do you suggest? again thank you so much for the useful stuff you've been sharing on YouTune...cheers!

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Salwan. EVFs are great but like you saw in the video they can give a false impression according to the light levels and it's effect on our eyes. I have a live histogram displayed in the EVF of my fuji, ignore what the image looks like and set exposure according to that/ Histograms don't lie - eyes can't always be trusted - MIKE

[@SalwanJBinni]

+Mike Browne Hi again Mike...got it...thank you so much for your feedback.

[@michaelangeloh.5383]

Something you can also take away from this is to only use a digital camera's screen to check composition and sharpness, but don't rely on it for exposure and colors completely. - Even changing the screen-brightness can make it look very different, so you'll never know what it looks like realistically. That will have to wait until you're in a controlled environment with a calibrated monitor etc.

[@MikeBrowne]

Couldn't agree with you more Michael... MIKE

[@michaeldidomenico7]

MIke, a question. When walking around a village and shooting, do you change your metering modes all the time, or stay with one in particular.

[@MikeBrowne]

hi Michael, this depends on different things, just like in this video, Mike had to change metering modes depends on the situation, on the subject , where the light is coming from, where you want to expose (subject) just by walking around the village you will encounter different photo opportunities that require you to change the metering mode because of the different situation. hope this helps - Melissa pp Mike

[@michaeldidomenico7]

Yes, it does because I will have time to pick and choose the best option. Thank you for your response.

[@tonyhodgkinson7026]

excellent video mike :) I like the hand held light meter :)

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Tony - Mike

[@peterjackhandy]

Just this week I took some shots of a wind turbine in sunshine, against dark cloud: Couldn't make out why I was not able to get a decent slow shutter speed, to blur the rotating blades. Got a couple of nice shots but realised, when I started working on them in Lightroom, that I'd had ISO set to auto; so the damn thing was compensating for my adjustments! There's always something to learn... and re-learn 😡

[@MikeBrowne]

Always something to learn for all of us Peter - and top marks for doing it. +Nostradante commented on another video that "Failure" is fuel for success. One should not fear it.” and it's so very true - MIKE :-)

[@adavis2813]

Terrific video Mike! I do have a question for you. I you took a meter reading off a gray card with your camera, would (or should) it give you about the same reading as your incident light meter? I have a Minolta Auto Meter IIIF that I used extensively back in my film shooting days, but I quit using it when I went digital because my digital images were underexposed by a stop or more with the Minolta meter. I know you can calibrate the Minolta meter and I was thinking I should adjust it until I get the same reading the camera is getting from a gray card. Does that make sense? Thanks for all the great videos!

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks. I've never had to calibrate an incident meter so I'm not the best to ask about that. But if you were to use your camera and spot meter off a grey card and apply the settings manually that will give you a 'correct' exposure. I say 'correct' because you may want it to be darker or brighter than 'correct' for creative reasons. - MIKE

[@adavis2813]

Thanks Mike I'll give that a try today!

[@fbbk3]

Your drunk imitation looked quite accurate Mike :D Thanks for the vid!

[@MikeBrowne]

ha ha thanks Berkay. Despite being big and beardy, I almost never drink alcohol actually but love to pretend I'm drunk - MIKE :-)

[@Jester68uk]

Thanks Mike.

[@BobSmith-dx9bj]

Good info. Thanks

[@emmettfrancis]

Thank you!

[@ianrkav]

What about white balance? Did you leave that on auto?

[@MikeBrowne]

Ho @iankav, I have the camera set to 6000K 99% of the time. I never use auto WB because it subtly changes the colours as you change composition. You include more of a red hut in a composition, auto WB will add a bit more cyan. If you'd like to learn more about this stuff and much much more please take a look at My online course A Masterclass In Photography". You can even try a free sample (6 lessons + support notes) which is valuable in itself. link below... ... MIKE🙏😊 www.photographycourses.biz/courses/photography-masterclass

[@chaybigger9532]

Love your videos!

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Chay Bigger - CHRISTINA

[@Grant_Seymour_]

Can you "tell" your light meter what aperture you want to use? As I see it, each time you've used it, it tells you the fixed values to plug into your camera. I can see the benefits of using a light meter, but I'm just not sure how much flexibility it has at times when I desire one part of the exposure triangle to be a particular value. For example, if the light meter is telling me to use f8 but I want to use f2.8 to obscure the background and narrow my depth of field, does the meter become, in effect, useless because it will only give me the one set of fixed readings?

[@MikeBrowne]

You can scroll up and down on the meter to find the combination you want. So say it says f.8 and you want f2.8, just scroll the aperture to 2.8 and it'll tell you the shutter speed you need. I'm not saying people 'should' use an incident meter by the way - I'm just showing the way they work and the way the camera meter works and how you have to think about what you're doing whichever method you use - MIKE

[@Grant_Seymour_]

+Mike Browne thanks for the clarification. You are incredibly helpful--just one reason I like your videos!

[@winmachielse1233]

I think that if you're spot metering in M mode for the trousers, you should over expose at least 1 1/3 stop. By the way, how's the lovely Abbie Hill doing? I heard about her illness and hope she's doing fine.

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks Win. She's OK most of the time, has her ups and downs but she's a fighter and living life to the full. - MIKE

[@frankyjunior6005]

when you are using incident light meter, do you use spot metering in camera or it is doesn't matter which camera light meter are using?

[@MikeBrowne]

hi Frank, please do watch this video, hope it helps www.photographycourses.biz/videos/technical/exposure/metering-modes-1 - Melissa pp Mike

[@rternowski]

When you use the off camera meter what are you set at for metering mode?

[@MsJohnmckenzie]

manual

[@MikeBrowne]

The guys above said it Rob. You ignore the camera and set the exposure manually from the incident meter - MIKE

[@peterkrstic498]

Nice model!

[@MikeBrowne]

Indeed

[@RickMahoney2013]

Mike what meter were you using ?

[@MikeBrowne]

The hand-held is a very old Minolta. Sorry not sure what model and can't go look because it's not where I am today.... MIKE

[@ginaheaton2203]

What is the brand name of the incident light meter are you using?

[@MikeBrowne]

It's an old Minolta Gina - MIKE

[@randymankoto2196]

How do you spot meter within the camera.

[@MikeBrowne]

Hi Randy. Your camer has many metering modes built in, one of them will be spot metering. Check out the cameras book on how to set it up because all cameras are different. .. MIKE

[@DavidWilliamsTR]

Great tips; as well as a repeated invitation to think! Cheers.:))

[@cosawanty]

The one part I can never understand is what metering mode to use. So I just adjust the aperture and shutter speed and iso so the viewfinder looks the way I want my shot to be. The wonders of an electronic viewfinder. :)

[@twagn]

Try them (metering mode) all and see the difference

[@MikeBrowne]

Check out the metering modes vids linked in the text below the vid and try them for yourself +cosawanty then you can choose the way you most like to work. Electronic viewfinders are OK, but as you saw, our eyes are not reliable in varying light levels... MIKE

[@witcheater]

Think! Think? What's that? Oh my brain is hurting. Time for a beer; time to be slothenly again while I do some more photography :)

[@MikeBrowne]

:-) Gerard - MIKE

[@m77ast]

Very good. To be honest - the content is excellent - From a drunken photography master :-)

[@MikeBrowne]

Thanks... MIKE 🙂🙏