Pickguard Cutting Tutorial

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ADDITIONAL TIPS BELOW:
3-4-2020 Update:
I use Minwax Wood Hardener applied with a foam brush or metal glue brush on all my MDF templates, including my pickguard templates. Wood hardener is much quicker and easier to use compared to superglue. I no longer use superglue to reinforce my MDF templates.
Two quick additional tips: • Pickguard Cutting: Two...
Also, I've gone to taping the original pickguard face down onto MDF when making the MDF template. Most pickguards have a beveled edge. Face down, the router bit can trace a little more accurately, with less risk of damage to the original pickguard. Face up, the guide bearing can trace the beveled edge if you're not careful, and the resulting template will be very slightly smaller than the original.
Stick the pickguard face (shiny side) down onto the MDF when making your template, and set the height of your guide bearing router bit very carefully.

[@fueyou]

Good info. If you want to avoid the hassle of setting the bearing on a bevelled guard, turn it over. That also eliminates some risk of cutting the guard, since it's not tight against the template material.

[@guitar_md]

You're absolutely right. I've been doing it that way for a while now, I just wish I'd thought of that when I made this video. I've added a couple other tricks that really help as well. Maybe at some point I'll make a new one with more updated info. Definitely better with the beveled edge down towards the template when making a copy of a pre-existing pickguard.

[@FoulOwl2112]

Not trying to be a "knowitall" but you could mount the pickguard upside down to make it a bit easier to use the guide bearing bit. Great tip about strengthening the edge with Superglue. That hadn't occurred to me.

[@guitar_md]

Been meaning to make a video addressing this specifically. I've stuck with mounting the guard face up, as with it face down, the edge is easier to trace -- however, it runs a much higher risk of ruining the original pickguard as the edge is much more prone to damage from the bearing on the router bit in this position. It's also more difficult to use light pressure in that position because it casts a small shadow on the edge of the template, which makes it hard to tell visually when you're pressed all the way against the guard. However, I have done it successfully with that method many times as well. So it's hard to say! If you get a chance, check out my new video on cutting a pickguard as well. Had fun and did it in an old fashioned black and white style to Scott Joplin music. Thanks so much for the comment! I haven't made up my mind yet on which method to use despite doing hundreds of pickguard so -- if you have success with either method let me know. I'm always curious about other people's experiences and always working to improve!

[@guitar_md]

Also in that new video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqTCaKWol5lrbLs -- I simply say either method will work -- face up or face down pickguard. I did use face down in that video and it came out perfect except one minor glitch. So it did work! And it certainly is much easier to set up the guide bearing that way, as you said. My mind remains open on this. Just can't stop the OCD but that's what makes this kind of work fun....mostly! Thanks again so much for the input! And as one more tip, I've found Wood Hardener works just as well as superglue, and is much cheaper.

[@FoulOwl2112]

@@guitar_md Cool ill check it out! I knw what you mean about the OCD stuff bro. Im a sound/stage tech by trade so ive been largely out of work since this whole Covid insanity has started. So ive been spending my extra time semi-constructively in my shop self-teaching myself guitar repair and mods. Buying pawn shop specials and tearing em up andd puttin em back together. Just been sifting through various channels on luthiery every day culling out the idiots and holding onto the good.... Just came across yours for whatever reason ( youtube's recommendation algorithm seems pretty biased these days) and you seem like a person l gleen a few tips from. Look forward to checkin out more of your vids.

[@Dreamdancer11]

Great attention to detail...personally i just use double sided tape to mount the old pickguard on the new material,rough cut it and then use a simple rasp to get it flush with the old one...i just use sandpaper on a block when i get close

[@rmatthews545]

again the best video on this subject - thank you!

[@scoutrifle6827]

Really useful, well-done. A great help as I go to cut my first Tele pickguard from a template.

[@guitar_md]

Glad it was helpful to you! I feel like I could redo this video and be more concise now, but apparently it's still helping some people out. Thanks for letting me know and good luck with your pickguard project.

[@ejmaki76]

Just a heads up for anybody watching this and wanting to dabble in this, or any kind of project in a wood shop. Don’t wear a hoodie with the laces dangling or loose clothes when using woodworking tools. If you lean over the router table or table saw or jointer, as you’re likely to do while trying to see your work better, it could get sucked in and pull your throat into a spinning blade. Not a pretty picture. Good vid, tho. Stay safe!!

[@Randy-ul5hy]

Yeah..as an H and S trained contractor...that was the first thing I noticed and it made me cringe. It can happen so quickly and then its too late.

[@roneldjr]

I know a year or so after the fact but I needed to get a refresher on pickguard routing and I viewed yours. This was the best, most thorough & professional. Thanks also for the 411 on the $40 comment. Dealing with dickheads ain't easy I know. The attention to detail is important and what was missing from the other vids on the subject. Thanks, nice job.

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much! So glad this video was able to help you. Inspires me to make more, with an emphasis on cutting out all fluff and only covering the essentials. Thanks again, I really appreciate the feedback.

[@nocaster5120]

Fantastic and thorough tutorial 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@guitar_md]

Thanks so much!

[@onebadbug]

Nice… but I’m curious,… who’s 3 ply sheet are you working with & where do you find it… I have a 1958 TrueTone & trying to remakes its guard/cover…. But can’t find three-ply material… White, Black, White ….

[@guitar_md]

The best/cheapest place I've found is here: www.amplifiedparts.com/products/luthier-parts-tools?filters=3391a3404

[@arkwryte]

Looks pretty good!

[@fredgerantabee571]

This is a great tutorial thanks so much. I'm curious how you were able to get The guide bearing to sit so close to the cut. I have a nearly identical Diablo bit but there is a gap between the bearing and the blade that leaves a lip on the MDF. I tried to close the gap but there's not enough height on the original pickguards to provide a surface for the bearing.

[@guitar_md]

You may be able to get away with that. If you're left with a lip of material from where the gap was, you can remove the pickguard, and then just flip the MDF template over and rout the lip off using the template-cut area as a guide. I usually have to slightly clean up my MDF templates this way. I'm usually only left with a very small amount of material, basically fuzz, but I'd imagine it would work just as well if you had a more substantial amount left, like a lip that's 1/64" or however thick it is. If you get this to work, let me know!

[@awebzz]

One thing I just learned from trying this myself is that the ball bearing on the router bit will get too hot and melt/gouge up the pickguard from the rolling along it with the heat. Perhaps this is from the cheap router bit I'm using? I guess I can minimize this from doing small bits at a time and stopping when the bit heats up too much?

[@guitar_md]

I only use carbide tipped bits, such as Amana Tool or Whiteside. Not sure if it makes a difference but I don't have any issues with melting or gouging using those bits. If you spin the guide bushing by hand, it should feel very, very loose and free, no resistance to spinning. If it feels tight or resists spinning, you may benefit from replacing the guide, or getting a new router bit. The bearings do seem to wear over time and it does help to replace them, even on expensive bits. The only other thing I can think of is be sure not to use too much pressure against the guide bearing; only push it as hard as you need to in order to get the cut. However, with a quality, freely moving guide bearing, a little extra pressure shouldn't be an issue. Looking up new guide bearings right now myself, as I could stand to replace a couple on my own router bits!

[@makeajazznoiseYTstoleit]

@@guitar_md thanks I'd love to see recommendations on bits. What I got say they're carbide but they're burning up on 1/2" mdf

[@guitar_md]

@@makeajazznoiseYTstoleit I clean mine pretty regularly with grill cleaner. I don't get any smoke or anything. But MDF can blacken carbide bits pretty quickly. Grill cleaner and a brass bruss should take that right off. Any carbide tipped bit should be as good as any other. Personally I use Amana Tool for almost all my bits but if yours is carbide it should be OK. What size bit are you using? I use 1/2" diameter by 1/2" tall when routing 1/2" MDF and have no issues, though I've been thinking about going to a bigger size because I do need to resharpen and clean the bit semi regularly. A bigger bit can handle more punishment

[@guitar_md]

@@makeajazznoiseYTstoleit Just placed an order for a Whiteside 2410 bit. It's 1/2" shank, 1-1/4" cutting length, and 3/4" cutting diameter. You may find a larger bit like this helpful. They're a lot more aggressive, but tend to cut cleaner, and the larger bit should help dissipate heat more. Check this out: www.thesprucecrafts.com/quarter-vs-half-inch-shank-bits-3536400 I'm using the larger bit mostly because I do a lot of template routing with 1/2" plywood and 1/2" MDF, but it's possible it would be better for pickguards as well. For cutting the actual plastic, a large bit would likely be overkill, and possibly less accurate, but for the initial making of the template on 1/2" MDF, it may be the way to go.

[@alanjameshorner]

YES. had exactly that, and if it’s a rare guitar or pickguard you don’t wanna damage the original. i’ve found that as the bearing runs along the beveled edge of the original the heat just folds/bends the very edge of the guard. with my next one i’m going to run painters tape round the edge of the pickguard for the bearing to run along. also the closer you can cut the MDF on the band saw/jigsaw the less stress is on the bit when cutting, so less pressure needed when doing first pass. Also using a wider/bigger bit for first cut so the bearing has more surface area touching the pickguard template. these things combined might help. i’ll let you know.

[@StevieTodd]

Just an old timer pro musician hobbyist woodworker with more tools than brains here. Love your style! Laughed off my chair at 6:40 ish.....can relate big time. Can you let me know the brand of that single flute countersink you're using.....need to find a decent one for my custom Tele pick guard. Thanks much!!

[@guitar_md]

Go to ebay and type: 1/2" 82 Degree HSS Single Flute countersink. Should be about 12 bucks. The single flute countersink is the best for pickguards. Super clean cut. Glad you enjoyed the video! :)

[@jadonx]

If just making a replacement pickguard for my bass, is it best to make a template or can I just use my old guard as one? I have a router table and a scroll saw table and raring to go with this project.

[@guitar_md]

I always make an MDF template out of the old pickguard, and then use that template to make the new pickguard. Using a pickguard itself as a template wouldn't work as you need at least 1/4" thick template for the guide bearing on the router bits to ride on. It's always a little tricky making the initial template, just be very careful while setting the height of the router bit. Always err on the side of setting the guide bearing a little low; too high and you'll cut into the old pickguard instead of tracing it.

[@jadonx]

@@guitar_md Thanks, one other, I was thinking if it would be better to put the pg upside down on mdf template so bearing doesn't ride up bevel and would follow the outer edge.

[@guitar_md]

@@jadonx I haven't tried this yet but am curious. The idea makes sense and I'd say give it a try and see how it works. If it's a superior method I will definitely be switching to that.

[@jadonx]

@@guitar_md I did it and worked its good you drill through the non counter-sinked side original too.

[@miidlytoxic1641]

Yo Matt D I have a 78 Kent SG I just bought it off someone and the pickguard is cracked I was wondering if maybe I could send it to you and you redo it? I would love to know if you can do it and a price of what it would be if so. I'm just getting into this guitar stuff and don't have nearly as many tools as you

[@guitar_md]

I could make a new one based on the cracked one for 60 bucks plus shipping. Are any pieces chipped off or is it a fracture?

[@miidlytoxic1641]

@@guitar_md a little chip near a screw. And how would I go about buying it, and thanks

[@guitar_md]

@@miidlytoxic1641 You can send me a message here if you want, or e-mail me at [e-mail] for details. There I can give you my PayPal email and address to ship the pickguard to. Thanks!

[@miidlytoxic1641]

@@guitar_md ok thanks

[@doctormario777]

Matt, Do you have a website or anything where I could order a custom pickguard from you? I've got an old doubleneck guitar that I need a pickguard replaced on and I don't have nearly the same tool setup that you have.

[@guitar_md]

I would, but am not currently offering any custom work. I'm curious though, is it a carbon copy of a pre existing guard or does it need one designed for it? I don't have a website yet either but I've been asked that a lot lately, so maybe I should get on that!

[@doctormario777]

Matt D it’s a Robin Octave double neck. Apparently there were only about 25 made and it’s got a non-standard pickup configuration

[@guitar_md]

@@doctormario777 Looked it up. Very cool looking guitar and pickguard. What's wrong with the pickguard on yours? I've been thinking about it, and if you're interested in sending me the pickguard, I could take a look at it and see if I could whip up a replica for you. If you're interested, shoot me an e-mail at [e-mail] and we'll see what we can work out.

[@doctormario777]

Matt D That could work! The pickguard on mine is slightly warped and stained with what looks like years worth of cigarette smoke and probably beer. This guitar had some real stank on it when I picked it up. What’s your email address? I can send you some pictures of the guitar and guard if you’re interested.

[@guitar_md]

@@doctormario777 my e-mail is [e-mail]. Will be looking forward to hearing from you!

[@brankojer4850]

Hi..can you tell me how you call this machine and tools on english? Sorry, i not speak well english.

[@guitar_md]

The main tool is the router, which is put inside of the router table. The router uses flush trim carbide router bits. Band saw and drill press are the other two. The drill press uses Forstner bits and regular drill bits (1/8" for drilling the pickguard holes).

[@brankojer4850]

@@guitar_md thank you that you take time to help me.

[@guitar_md]

@@brankojer4850 sure thing!

[@Randy-ul5hy]

Geez....theres more work in making the template than the actual pick guard!

[@toulousedarling55]

taping original face down would reduce difficulties copying the shape to template.........

[@guitar_md]

I have some newer videos on my "Pickguard Making" playlist on my channel, if you're curious. Face down does reduce difficulties in some ways -- but you have to be very careful. I want to do another video on this at some point. I've never used a pin router, but pin routers use a stationary pin. When using guide bearing bits like I'm doing here, they can *very easily* dig into that fine beveled edge. With the pickguard the 'wrong' way, you might lose a little on the perimeter of the pickguard when tracing it, but you're much less likely to gouge out that beveled edge. What happens with the gouging is -- now you've got a huge divit in your template, which needs to be filled in with superglue/baking soda, re-filed and sanded down. So a pin router is probably the best way to go to copy pickguards without damaging them. The second best way is, like you said, mount them face down -- but you need to make sure your router bit is in great shape, with the guide bearing in great shape, and be *extremely careful* not only when adjusting the bit height, but when routing. Even a *little* too much pressure against that beveled edge, and the guide bearing will melt it right away. It'll eat right through it in a flash. So I find these days, mounting the guards face down, I have to almost freehand the rout. You can only barely press the bit up against that beveled edge with the lightest possible touch -- any more, and you're toast. If I could afford a pin router, and had the shop space to have a pin router, I would be trying that. A stationary pin and an overhead router would solve all of these problems and I really wish I could try it. I don't think I've ever even known a single person in my life that owned a pin router -- very specialized tool, it seems

[@hansegg08]

Thanks for the tutorial! However, what’s up with the strange comments and cursing? Listen fro about 6:40 on...

[@guitar_md]

Ah yes, I forgot about that. This was a while ago. That all was just from doing multiple, multiple jobs for customers and getting paid probably about 1/10th of what they were worth, and also having more than a couple people screw me out of over $1,500 worth of work and disappearing or refusing to pay, etc., and just being burned out all the time, and frustrated. Things are not as stressful these days :) I'm aiming to make more tutorials these days, and really cut the fat back, like keep them as short as physically possible while still covering all the necessary bases. I've learned quite a bit since I made this video as well.

[@chrisbliss7]

@@guitar_md punk rock