7th Gen (2001-2005) Honda Civic DIY - Repair Your Rear Power Lock and Window Wiring Harness

[@NoNamesGiven_]

Thank you for posting this video, I had replaced my lock actuator but it didn't help (returned it to amazon), so I watched this again, and sure enough, the wires were damaged and split! Took it out, cleaned them, soldered them and put it all back together, my 15 year old civic now has its rear door lock working again, and it didn't cost me a penny!

[@piercedasian]

That is awesome news! Always happy to hear someone fixing their car for practically nothing other than your time!

[@caesarbravo]

Just fixed my wiring harness! We take the little things for granted, like your rear door automatically locking. Thank you for your video!

[@piercedasian]

Nice work!

[@davidtod6436]

I really appreciate how detailed, thorough and careful this video is. Although I'm not replacing my harness yet, I know I could after watching this. My daughter's car window was stuck down and using the information from this I was able to jiggle the connector boot between the door and frame to get it rolled up. Really appreciate your work here.

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome! Thanks for watching.

[@thromboid]

Thanks for this video! My JDM Honda Fit's rear right door isn't locking/unlocking, and I've determined it's a broken wire. Knowing that there's a connector inside the door pillar and how to pull out the door wiring harness should make the next stage a lot easier.

[@wilhoward252]

Awesome lesson. I have the same daunting problem with my front passenger side power window. I thought it was the window regulator motor. Purchased a window regulator but when I removed the door covering, I tested the power to the window regulator but there was no voltage. Then I checked the Honda manual and found that each of the four doors has a fuse. When I checked the fuse for the passenger side power window, it was blown. Voila! Thought I had my problem solved but when I purchased 5 - 20A fuses, I switched power on and one fused blew immediately. Then I disconnected the harness cable for the window regulator and connected it to the newly purchased regulator and another fuse was blown immediately. Now I know it is not the window regulator. Is it just a coincidence that the other 3 door windows work but the one on the front passenger side does not work. I knew that I had a wiring problem somewhere. This KZbin video shows me with a 99 percent degree of confidence where the electrical short is located. The only problem is that the harness boot is on the front driver's side instead of the rear door. Hopefully, I will be able to remove the rubber boot from the front with a little more effort than what is shown in the video. At least, after viewing this video, I know where the problem is located.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found the video useful! Excellent troubleshooting on your part and glad that you're able to pinpoint where the problem lies.

[@draoicht22]

Did u manage to diagnose and fix the issue with your power locks on your front passenger door ?

[@nogooddeedgoesunpunished]

Appreciate the time, detail and efficiency demonstrated in this video. I don't think it could be better. I have purchased a driver's side master switch new...twice. And the rear windows still won't work, although they do go up directly from the rear switches. I doubt that 2 new switches could be faulty, so believe that it must be related to the wiring somehow. A compromise between the rear windows and the master switch may be the culprit, and this video was comprehensive enough to make me feel confident to investigate. It is not viable to pay a shop for something like this, as the time and rate billed would be considerable. Thank you!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found the video helpful! My apologies for taking so long to reply. Life is hectic and replying to every comment can literally take me days to complete when I'm focused on my channel. Yes the wiring harness failures are VERY common on these cars and the fix is super easy to do. Hopefully you were able to fix your issues and your windows and locks are working perfectly again.

[@lorenhanson8295]

Great video on how to fix the door lock and power window. Thanks for your time in doing this!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you found the video useful! Thanks for stopping by!

[@MJC-GSXS750]

This video helped tremendously:). I just bought a 2003 Acura 1.7EL, for a winter car/work commuter. On my way home, I noticed the rear windows were not going done, so I kept playing with them, until the RR window went down a couple inches, then I couldn't get it back up. I googled searched and found your video. My wires wernt as crinkled up as yours, so I just straightened them out, then the window went up fine, and now works. The LR window doesnt work either, so I will give that a shot also. I'm just happy i got it up, and really never need to use them, but at least i know how to fix them. Thanks again.

[@piercedasian]

glad you were able to fix your issue! Hopefully those windows don't cause you any more grief!

[@michellenorman2752]

My wiring had good continuity even though one wire had 2 small breaks in the insulation that I taped up. I had a bad connection in the plug that connects to the window motor. I bent the prongs slightly and got a good connection. Window works again. Adding this comment in case your wiring appears OK but same symptom. Great video which was a great help disassembling the door.

[@piercedasian]

interesting fix. Not sure how your pins would loose up like that as Honda harnesses usually have solid connections. In any case that is a great tip to share with everyone! thanks.

[@ianmcclay1902]

I just wanted to thank you for making this video! On my civic the driver's side rear door window and power lock both were not working either and with this video I was able to find and repair both broken wires quickly. Cheers...!! Ian

[@piercedasian]

glad you figured it all out. Beats buying a new harness or paying someone to do such a simple fix.

[@BlGMANDAN]

Thank you so much for this video! My window was never working but now it will be with this!!! Thank you, you saved me so much money!!!

[@nickdeacon]

Appreciate your care in filming and lighting here. I'm a total novice and this makes perfect sense to me.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

[@captainkowalski5176]

Dealer want $465 to replace the wiring harness! You saved me. Thanks!

[@piercedasian]

whoa! They don't call them the stealership for nothing!

[@AndrewKasab]

Great job, descriptive steps and best of all, everything works! I am enjoying your Civic repair videos - thanks!

[@piercedasian]

glad you like my vids. Thanks for watching!

[@johnburnside7316]

Really helpful video. Gave me the confidence to fix the problems I'm having with my 2002 Honda Civic. Seeing how it's done is so much better than just reading about it. Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

a picture is worth a thousand words right ? :) Thanks for watching!

[@murraykriner9425]

This has ever been a fit with power windows and locks since they first started adding creature comforts. I just found one of my rear doors is acting the same way, with both the locks and windows not functioning. Pretty sure its the same problem in the harness. Appreciate all your help, and feel certain your outlined repair will solve my ill as well. Best wishes.

[@piercedasian]

hope it works out well for you!

[@murraykriner9425]

@@piercedasian sure it will be fine. Was essaying the body condition today, and even had a chance to realign the trunk lid, and bump some pretty bad dents out of quarter and front fender. The front valance is gonna have to be replaced since some one broke the clips and snapped two of the mounting points clean off. Timing belt/waterpump/head gasket/valve cover gasket/radiator/thermostat/trans-axle cooler. She's at 230k and has spotty maintenance, but I figured that when I got it. Really appreciate all your help with the electrics. Its just one door, but it will be good practice for the rest when they go.

[@piercedasian]

Glad to hear that your making progress on the car. Once things are all fixed up it will serve you well for a very long time.

[@murraykriner9425]

@@piercedasian I'm certain. I've tried these repairs on some domestics with mixed results.

[@AriesbayB]

Great!! This gives me the confidence to tackle the issue myself on my 2005 civic. The dealership wants to charge me an arm and a leg! Thanks for the vid!!!!

[@piercedasian]

yeah it's crazy how much the stealership will charge to do such a simple job. If I wasn't filming this video it would've taken me less than HALF the time to complete the task.

[@dbobdettmer1]

This video is as good as it gets. Well articulated and photographed with adequate details at all steps. Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the quality of the video. Thanks for watching!

[@FixitFreeman]

This can apply to other Honda Acura models in the same year sequence. Found your purposeful intentional descriptions and comfort with silence refreshing.

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!

[@kongtham6093]

Really a fantastic video. I had the same problem but this is the drivers rear power window. I did exactly as show on your video . I found that one wire is broken. But i solder all the wires .Thanks a lot for the video. I found out the cost of wire harness is around 35$ .

[@piercedasian]

Yeah new Honda wiring harness isn’t really that expensive and in some cases it makes sense to buy a new harness (for example if repairs aren’t good and wires keep breaking) but in most cases a simple splice and solder job works just fine.

[@matthewsmith9410]

Great video I wish all repair vids were this good

[@piercedasian]

I'm glad you feel that way. I try my best to give my viewers quality content although it can be tough since I am a one person production crew that does it all :)

[@TheMrcongvu]

Very detailed information, clear, and understandable.thank you so much

[@piercedasian]

glad you found my video easy to follow. Thank you for watching!

[@joseph2095]

Excellent video instruction and I think it will solve the problem I've had with my '02 Civic EX Sedan. Thank you!

[@piercedasian]

Glad it helped

[@matthewsmith9410]

One of the best repair videos I have seen Thanks

[@piercedasian]

You’re most welcome. Glad you liked my video!

[@PBQLead]

Great video (as usual)! I have this same issue on my 2001 Civic LX (Driver's Side Rear Locks) so now I know how to fix it... if I want to go through all the trouble, that is!

[@PBQLead]

Well, actually, wouldn't you know, but the wiring was fine. It seems to be a problem with the actuator. Pro-tip: be sure to check the plug with a test light to see if there's a current before you go fishing all the wires out!

[@piercedasian]

+Sean Stork good point. What I should have done was show how to verify that there is power to the actuator first before yanking the wires. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess. Well at least you figured out what was defective :)

[@Tomdragon91]

This is sooo useful my front passenger side door on my 2002 civic lost power completely im definitely going to try this!

[@piercedasian]

Good luck!

[@PadreAndretti]

thank you so much my rear driver side door lock stopped working today this helped so much!!!

[@piercedasian]

+YBKYungDre213 glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!

[@edca4318]

Showed all steps clearly. Great vedio as always.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the vid!

[@qazikhan8399]

Great video,I have the same car with same problem with both rare windows and after watching this video I have opened it and not sure I ll make it or no 😓

[@piercedasian]

You'll be able to fix it. Super easy. If you're not handy at soldering then you can always just buy the entire wiring assembly from Honda and just plug and play.

[@chientschang6798]

Thank you for the video! This was a lifesaver.

[@charleszhang674]

Looks great. My car has the same problem except it is the driver side back door. I am sure it is the same culprit. I’ll come back once I fix the problem.

[@piercedasian]

Thanks!

[@rightyouareken7587]

This was really well done. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!

[@qazikhan8399]

And do you think it's the problem with the fuse if yes pls let me know which one is the fuse for rare window in the fuse box, thanks

[@piercedasian]

Never hurts to check the fuses although I'd be shocked if the fuses were blown. In all my years of fixing these problems I have never seen the door lock or window fuse blow.

[@zaiah3044]

I have a 2001 honda civic ex and the front passenger window will not move. I have checked everything but i’m unsure how to get to the wiring to check if they are the issue.

[@brocky78]

Great job bought a 2001 honda HRV 1.6 vtec last week rear windows both sides not work from front or back also one door rear left not open from inside or outside what you think wrong please? Also have panel on worst door almost off but metal rod to handle with plastic cover still conect to handle dont want break but keeping from removing panel completely off any ideas how it come off?

[@piercedasian]

Just so I am clear, you cannot at all open one of the rear doors? How are you able to get access to remove the door panel without damaging it? The door handle rod should be just held in with a small plastic "wrap around" clip. You just need to swing it out of the way to unlatch it and then lift the rod up over the little wrap around retainer clip. Hope that is what you're referring to.

[@chientschang6798]

Excellent video. Thank you.

[@tteuvky]

very good video and nice explanation, i will try to repair my self now thanks

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!

[@israelsanchez3383]

Well done! Is the first video I am watching no offense with all the process congrats

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video!

[@xyz1007]

very useful, i learned some stuff about soldering wires... thanks.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!

[@shermanpup]

My 2001 civic blows fuses on the passenger front and the left front speaker that quit working is the harness too short and then wears through the insulation and then shorts to ground ?? good video '

[@piercedasian]

I ironically just repaired my front driver's door harness wiring not because it was blowing fuses but my driver's side heated mirrors stopped working recently.

[@GeorgeLouVideo]

Very interesting! Unlike the wires, which you have pointed out, most people will usually point to the actual lock and window motors. I'm having issues with my right side passenger door. The window will fail in extreme cold, and the lock doesn't always lock properly. I'm aiming to change the actual motors and not the wires. How often are the wires to blame?

[@piercedasian]

The door actuator motor I have seen fail on some Honda's but for this specific generation of civic it is more often the wiring harness. I made the fateful mistake once by ripping out the window motor (b/c it wasn't working) and damaging it the process only to find out the new motor I installed didn't work and that is how I traced it back to faulty wiring.

[@GeorgeLouVideo]

Thanks for the advice. I changed the door lock actuator and it fixed the problem. Take care.

[@piercedasian]

awesome news. Glad it all worked out for you.

[@qazikhan8399]

Should I replace the switch and check? Because when I check through electric jumpers my window went up but with the switch it's not moving

[@olmec_____5536]

I just removed the rear passenger side harness and to my surprise the wires are perfectly fine

[@olmec_____5536]

I checked fuses 24 and 25 and they are not blown. Can a fuse still go bad even if it is not blown out?

[@olmec_____5536]

Both windows are not functioning, should I check the other windows wires? Is it possible the driver side rear harness's wires could be damaged causing both to not work?

[@piercedasian]

Yes, the driver's door harness can have a bunch of broken wires that will cause your other windows to not work. Ironically I am working on my civic that has a similar issue to yours.

[@albert333pool]

Pierce... Question... The foam piece at 4:15 at the bottom of the door, what's its sole purpose? Mine was loose and was preventing my window from going all the way down. I didn't have any "goo" to re-attach it so just left it off. Thanks

[@piercedasian]

ah, the foam block is merely sound deadening material used to help make the interior a little bit quieter and prevent the door panel from rattling.

[@Paul_Pauline]

Could you kindly let me know the wire size in door harness for Hond CR-V 1997 (RD1)? Thanks,

[@draoicht22]

I have a 2003 Civic 4 Dr EU8 model with passenger and rear passenger door power lock problems. Any chance you could do a video on that model ? The front door wire harness looks harder to get access to

[@piercedasian]

I likely won't have access to an EU8 model anytime soon but the basic procedure and diagnostics on how to fix is exactly the same.

[@adashas4414]

Thanks for uploading this. In the process of removing the rubber door boot that protects the wiring on the rear driver side door, I found that the wire that connects to the rear wire harness, coming out of the front/middle compartment of the door, has almost no slack. There's so little slack that I worry in the process of placing a replacement wire harness (due to extensive fraying / severed wires within the rubber boot), I might damage the connector. Any clues as to how to find and perhaps feed more of that connector from the front/interior door so that it isn't so precariously tight?

[@piercedasian]

Honda engineers have done a pretty decent job of precisely working out the lengths of the cable to just fit in a manner where the cables won't stretch or be bent too hard such that they break. If you're doing your own cable repairs then you just simply make your wires a tad bit longer but if you're burying a new harness assembly, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The wires break over time b/c of the plasticizers in the wire insulation hardening and becoming brittle. Moisture then gets to the copper wire inside which then oxidizes the copper making it more prone to breaking and well... that's when things stop working or shorting out. If Honda made the wire too long then ironically the wires will break even easier b/c of the lack of flex in the cable. I've examined this harnesses in fairly great detail and have even made my own and I'm finding that giving cable that extra length may not always be the best solution.

[@adashas4414]

@@piercedasian Thanks for the interesting answer, I ended up ordering an OEM replacement wiring harness kit and was pleasantly surprised when the replacement had much less of an issue in terms of having just the right amount of slack without being too difficult to place and/or feeling like I was damaging it during installation. Looks like those Honda engineers were on top of things indeed! Cheers

[@larryhicks7558]

It will happen to you also just a matter of time but this is a great video to fix it up right .

[@qazikhan8399]

Thanks for reply,actually I got that whole bunch of electric cable part from junk yard I repleced it and checked the motor before doing that so motor is fine coz window was moving using the electric jumper but after installing this new cable my window is still not moving pls recommend where else problem would be I will really appreciate the help

[@piercedasian]

there is a good chance the junk yard harness is broken too. Wiring breakage/failure was VERY common on the 7th gen civics. Check the continuity of the wiring that you installed from the door jamb to the plugs on the window motor and I'm going to bet that at least 1 wire is "open". The best and most reliable solution is to buy a new harness directly from Honda and you should be good for another solid 10+ years before it fails again.

[@draoicht22]

Hi @Pierce Dasian: For power lock issue is there an easy way to check if the door wire harness is the issue or you have to take apart the whole door trim and expose all the wires ?

[@Catcvcv]

When i removed my quarter window. One of the washers fell inside the car door. I was removing the bolt that holds the long piece that divides the big window and quarter window. Where does that washer go? Does it go directly behind the door frame? I have a honda civic 2003. Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

While I can't say exactly where that washer should go that intuitive logic would say it goes directly under the bolt and then through the piece you're trying to bolt together. Worse case is you can pop the opposite door's panel off to take a peek to confirm.

[@eruizh0128]

Beautiful thanks for your video, I have the same problem,.good job ,.thanks

[@piercedasian]

You are welcome!

[@samj1012]

good video. many thanks. if this door only does not respond does it mean harness got cut ?

[@piercedasian]

the wires on the harness likely broke. The wire insulation cracks and fails with age.

[@dumpatronix]

This is awesome! Looking forward to trying this on my 02 Civic LX. Do you think this trick would also work on the passenger front door? I have the same problem there...

[@krzysztofczerminski5135]

dumpatronix hey mate did u solve the problem?

[@piercedasian]

yep the procedure to fix the wiring harness is fundamentally similar.

[@bdowns5231]

Excellent video

[@piercedasian]

Thanks!

[@aznnp77]

This problem just won't end. I replaced the harness and the regulator, and everything works great now, except when I put the door panel back on the door lock doesn't move up and down easily. Moves fine without the panel on, but I dunno. Maybe it needs perfect alignment or something, I've been trying to get it back on for like an hour. Edit: Okay took me like another half hour, but I think it's because I didn't fasten clip of the wire that connects to the window button to the door and it may have gotten in the way of the mechanism or something. Now everything works, except I get slight thunk sound when the window gets fully closed. I don't really care about that though. This window only gets opened like 3-4 times a year at most. But I learned a lot from this experience. That Hondas are very picky about how re-assembly and that you have to put back everything the way it is.

[@piercedasian]

hmm, you're probably not lining up the door lock plunger up properly. Make sure the rods that the plunger and related door links are not binding up on the panel or on something that isn't so obvious. The thunk you're hearing is likely due to the fact that you may not have tightened up all bolts for the regulator (look around the motor as there are 3 bolts that hold the motor to the door. A lot of folks install the motor into the "keyhole" slots in the door and forget to tighten them and thus the motor shifts slightly when the window closes. I'd definitely check to make sure those are tight otherwise you're going to have some window binding problems in the future.

[@aznnp77]

@@piercedasian I got it to work for the most part eventually. There is a faint sound like glass hitting something when it goes all the way up, but I'm fine with that. I don't open that window much anyways. But yeah it was both the regulator and the harness. My harness had been going bad for years. Maybe after 12-15 years or so. Then it magically worked one day and did for a actually a couple years after that. Then I lowered my window one day and it just died putting it back up.

[@piercedasian]

yep, old wiring is amazing that it will work one day and then not the other. I've had intermittent window issues for years and even ruined my perfectly fine regulator/motor assembly yanking it out thinking it was faulty. That was an expensive lesson for me.

[@aznnp77]

So I ended up replacing both my rear passenger side harness and the window regulator. Still didn't work until I reconnected the window switch for that door. That worked, and my driver's side switch started working after that. Pretty weird. The funny thing is I've had problems for so long that both my harness AND the window regulator were both bad. I tried swapping back in each of the old parts and the window stopped working again. So it is possible to have both go bad after 20 years. I actually think the harness went bad many years ago. It just started working randomly like a year later. Then the regulator went bad maybe because my master switch has sticking buttons maybe burned the motor out.

[@piercedasian]

Yes you have to install all the switches (both the slave and master switch) for the windows to work properly. Switches rarely fail and often it is messed up wiring that causes issues. Interestingly my window regulators have been perfect and in fact I was a dummy and replaced the regulator assembly before replacing the harness and ended up damaging my original regulator. Lessons learned that in these cars the most common problem is bad wiring harnesses which is expected given how old the car is. All cars eventually have wiring that breaks in the door. I used to be a GM guy and you want to talk about bad bad wiring…. Honda’s are near faultless compared to a GM.

[@TheUnknownHarbingers]

I couldn't figure out how to remove the plug that goes into the far right inside the door. I'm working on the front passenger side. It looks like the grey connector on the end of yours and you said to use needle nose pliers

[@piercedasian]

Sometimes patience and small hands are needed to get at certain connectors. can you unbolt anything to gain some room or shift the components you're trying to disconnect?

[@frankolivas8593]

Great video, this method could apply to a 8th gen civic coupe driver side too?

[@piercedasian]

Frank the front driver's side actuator is rather finicky and unfortunately it isn't the same and is a PITA to replace. I don't currently have a video for it but when I do you can be sure I will post it.

[@frankolivas8593]

I have replaced the motor for window, so I am thinking that it broken wires . I meant to fix the wiring would be the same process

[@frankolivas8593]

I mean, fixing wires is the same process.

[@unept96]

Would simply wrapping each wire with electrical tape have solved the symptoms since the conductors themselves were still intact? Thanks for the great video! We're still hanging on to the '03 Civic with help from posters like you.

[@piercedasian]

IF the wires are still intact you COULD wrap the wires in electrical tape but be warned that wrapping the conductors with too much tape can create too much bulk in the door boot joint and actually cause the wires to break even easier. They use relatively thin wires because they're the most flexible and taping up wires can add bulk.

[@glenndallinger4596]

hey... I appreciate the vids on the 7th gen honda civic. I have a 2005 LX coupe with about 93,000 miles on it. I'm thinking the heater hoses are about due for replacement, but I can't seem to find any videos for that repair. If you have done that on your civic, can you give me any tips? or, if you're planning a video, I'll wait. Thanks.

[@piercedasian]

replace the hoses at 93K miles? I've got over 300, 000 miles on mine and my hoses are still perfect. Honda hoses are very high quality and I have yet to replace a single one on ANY of my Honda vehicles. They're easy to change but honestly if they're not cracked then I wouldn't touch them. I don't have vids of changing them out because I never have found the need to do so.

[@glenndallinger4596]

wow, I've heard Honda hoses are of good quality, but to go 300,000 miles.... ok, guess I won't worry about it unless I see some cracks....thanks very much.

[@piercedasian]

yeah my 1990 CRX Si is still using the factory hoses and even though it only has 120, 000 miles on it they're still good and they're 25 years old!

[@georgedoughty6679]

Thank you, helpful

[@wandererinadistantland]

Thanks so much. Very helpful!

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome.

[@danieltejera5357]

Nice video! Can you tell me what wire wauge you're using?

[@piercedasian]

I was using 22 gauge wire.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

I jsut got a Civic 2001, its looks quite okay for such an old car. I noticed that only my driver lcok and tail lock open. Is that normal. I believe i got the Coupe model though i got 4 doors and a hatch. I thought hatchback had bigger trunk. Not sure what type it is then haha. EDIT seems its a hatchback model. I need to figure out if this locking behavior is normal.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

Though all 4 windows still work, its just the locks. But I'm not sure they are connected to the electric lock. PS wouldn't it be better to add some kind of connector, like male-female, to extend it instead of soldering. I mean now you have 2 weaks parts to every lengthened wire. Whereas the connector is simple held by a small screw. Can solder resist that much stress?

[@piercedasian]

not enough room inside the boot to add connectors without potentially compromising the connection.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

@@piercedasian ah yeah, they would meet be very small. I thought perhaps one of those small cubes where you connect the wires from both ends

[@qazikhan8399]

You are right fuse r fine motor is working properly electric cables r also good now I have been told by a machanic it's the problem with Programming which only Honda dealer can fix it 🙄

[@piercedasian]

That is a bunch of bull. So you thoroughly checked all the wires and they’re for sure not broken? If they are in fact good then you may have a faulty power window switch. Check that next at the rear harness to see if the lawyer switch is sending power to the rear doors.

[@slowgoat6089]

I changed both left side actuators and my locks still don’t work, my bast bet is digging into the wires?

[@piercedasian]

Yes if the actuators are still not working then you likely having a wiring problem in the doors.

[@gabrielsanchez4015]

Great 👍🏼 thanks 🙏🏼

[@jdray1634]

Great video! Thank you!

[@piercedasian]

You're welcome!

[@irvinglew6296]

I think maybe you should note - for all the rookies or novices, which would be about 98% of us - that BEFORE you tear all the wiring harness apart, that you have ALREADY tested and determined that it is NOT the lock actuator or window motor that is bad.

[@piercedasian]

Valid point. In most cases of this specific honda, the actuator rarely seems to fail BUT you are right in that it could be primary point of failure and not the wiring.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

PS isnt it better to cut even lengths for the extension so they all the same. I had the feeling you were free-balling here. Or doesn't that really matter? One thing you didn't mention but seems obvious, that wire which was still good also needs to be extended.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

Isnt it better to check if the connector works by connecting it before putting it back in place. I myself would be 100% sure of my solder skills. So if i could check it is working before doing all that tedious pulling and connecting.

[@alanamos5158]

Shouldn't this be a recall like the srs air bags. But thanks for the info. Of course I have 2 vtec's 01 ex and a 02 special edition. Well the 02 was totaled after I spent 2k on and now sueing for damages. And put alot of work into because my mom passed away in my sisters silver 05 civic so that's why I'm wanting to fix everything. I bought the 01 for 500 and no start so I have all the parts to replace everything. But wow what alot of work but it's worth it for me because my mom. I have never greived but the day she passed to be with our true father(GOD)!

[@piercedasian]

I it wouldn’t be a recall because with poses no safety risk that would endanger lives. Heck even the seatbelt buckles that are tied to the SRS system for honda vehicles sold in the USA have a lifetime warranty but everywhere else in the world you gotta pay to fix it after the 3 year, 60k mile warranty.

[@v.h.521]

can I just cut the 90 degree rubber area with a slit and take flash light to see of the wires are disconnected? just trying to avoid 6aking the door apart..

[@Arbknight]

chin trigger yea no doubt!! That is a lot of freakin work just to make ONE window work. My rear driver side window failed and is stuck in the complete down position and I live in Toronto, Ontario where it's been -15 for the last couple days....my Honda is not drivable because of this Honda issue....I just need a quick fix, could care less if the window doesn't work afterwards, i just need it to close fully and stay closed

[@v.h.521]

Arbknight I knew I can sense a that you were in canada.. im in markham you look like you know what the heck your doing can I come see you? email me [e-mail]

[@piercedasian]

The problem is that if you cut a slit in the rubber boot that chances are the wires are all frayed and broken that you might have trouble getting power to the window to get it to close. As far as effort is required to replace the broken harness you can opt to pull the entire harness as how I've demonstrated in my video but instead of repairing the harness (which takes a LONG time) that you can buy an entire wiring assembly complete with new rubber boot for about $35 CAD so relatively speaking it a cheap fix even if you purchased a brand new wiring harness which is plug and play. I just opt to do the repairs because I like saving money where I can.

[@dumpatronix]

piercedasian do you know part number?

[@dumpatronix]

Arbknight when my rear windows had the same problem (stuck open), I opened door panel, disconnected wiring for the window switch, then just used a 12V power supply (battery jumper) and some wire scraps to power the window up/closed. Then i just left the window disconnected and closed the door back up. Rear windows don’t open, but it’s better tan getting stuck down

[@pauloribeiro8759]

thank you so much (Obrigado) in Portuguese language.

[@piercedasian]

you're most welcome!

[@shawnbarrett4540]

Thanks! This was the problem exactly. I had three out of the five wires completely severed. The weird thing was, where the breaks were, there was e-tape over the wires. We had never been in that boot (my wife is the original owner). Has anyone else found factory flaws repaired in the doors?

[@piercedasian]

it could very well be possible that the factory or the dealership had to do on the spot fixes for the wiring.

[@AbuPaul]

How do you test if the harness is what's broken and not the motor?

[@piercedasian]

Statistically speaking the wires are far more likely to fail first due to the constant mechanical bending and hardening of the plasticizers used to make the wire insulation. I've replaced a TON of door wiring harnesses before I've ever had to replace a motor. Not saying motors don't fail but they're quite rare.

[@RobertMOdell]

piercedasian. Do you know if the rear door for an Accord is very different ?

[@piercedasian]

The designs of Honda's door latches and power locks are all very similar. I can't say with absolute certainly that they're exactly the same but the fundamentals of how to take them apart would be.

[@RobertMOdell]

Probably the only thing I'm concerned about is whether the harness unplugs without taking the wiring out of the door.

[@notowow2321]

I am installing a car alarm and need a wiring diagram for lock and unlock driver's side. I have honda civic 02 vii ep .. I found some info but it is for civic vii ep3 idk if it is ok... please help !

[@piercedasian]

you should be able to find one on the 12volt.com

[@allendomaoan1045]

Do you need a specific wire gauge @ 13:33? I need to purchase some

[@piercedasian]

I normally use 20-22 gauge wire for this kind of repair work.

[@ttsang1668]

Good video.

[@piercedasian]

Thanks!

[@JesusLoveToSkate]

Thanks a lot !!!

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome!

[@herro2015]

Thank you

[@piercedasian]

You're welcome

[@Divisionsixty]

THANK YOU VERY MUCH

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome!

[@jojo9982]

thank you for the help 😃

[@piercedasian]

you're welcome!

[@bizimkimyaci8296]

Eyvallah

[@piercedasian]

not sure what is supposed to mean :)

[@rickyboyz1006]

Just subbed!! Do you live in Canada buddy?

[@piercedasian]

Thanks for subscribing. Yes I'm a Canadian. Are you?

[@rickyboyz1006]

@@piercedasian Yep, just south of Toronto

[@alainarevalo724]

where can I buy a brand new wiring harness? thanks

[@piercedasian]

Honda

[@delvisvals3924]

Nice!

[@piercedasian]

Glad you like the vid!

[@aznnp77]

My rear passenger side window doesn't do anything anymore. I don't hear the motor, I changed the driver's side master switch. But the power lock does work. It's annoying because it's only open like an inch, with half an inch exposed from the outside, so when it rains hard I get a little water inside. Sucks cuz I only open that window like twice a year. It actually stopped working for like a couple of years and started working again on it's own one day. After that I tried to open it every now and then until it stopped. Longer story of the day it happened but I dunno if it's completely relevant or if anyone cares.

[@piercedasian]

The issue you're experiencing is the result of a broken wiring harness. If you remove your harness like how I demonstrated in the video that I am willing to bet that you're going to find some broken or partially broken wires. These cars are getting old and as time passes that the insulation on the wires naturally start to breakdown from temperature shifts and repeated movement from the door opening and closing. Definitely find the time to take it apart and start digging around in the harness. The great thing about the harness is that they're not too expensive to replace and in my opinion well worth it. It almost always starts out with the window working intermittently and the power door locks still working and depending on how the wires broke they can occasionally make contact such that they work again. Annoying problem but I've fixed so many cars that have these issues (all makes and models) and 99% of the time it is a bad harness.

[@aznnp77]

@@piercedasian I read on some forum some guy said he poured alcohol into the window switch and it worked, so I tried that, and I could actually hear the motor faintly for a second. I only heard it that one time though. I tried more alcohol and it never made the motor noise again.

[@aznnp77]

@@piercedasian My car is a little different than yours. It's a 2001 and I didn't have to pull it through the front door. But When I got the wiring harness out, none of the wires were split. Dunno what to do now. Maybe it's just the obvious thing. The window regulator.

[@shawnsheep6556]

@@aznnp77 It was a good video I it was a helpful I need help me a lot thank you

[@krzysztofczerminski5135]

Can some one please give me a tip? I have 01 em2 my passager window just goes down but not moving up back. My central locks work fine just this stupid window

[@piercedasian]

you likely have a broken wire in the door. There are 3 wires for the window. Ground, up and down.

[@MuhammadAyub-po3ow]

Im malaysian..i use honda civic 1.7

[@piercedasian]

The Honda Civic is a great reliable car!

[@dcwatashi]

sending you a private email Lol, had to replace mine, front door of my Camry girl :-)

[@piercedasian]

+dcwatashi Haven't had a chance to do a detailed reply to your email. Been so busy and tired with all the things going on.

[@RomboutVersluijs]

I guess i need to find that pry tool, didn't seemed very basic to me hahaha

[@RomboutVersluijs]

Kinda weird you need to destray that water shield. I wonder why they didn't make that easier to remove. Now you just turn it apart?

[@RomboutVersluijs]

Dang all the tie ig ot the feeling you were in a hurry, is that just me.

[@piercedasian]

not in a a hurry at all. I've fixed so many of these wiring harnesses that any reasonable length of wire being added is going to fit better than what was in there previously.

[@rh8278]

Nothing to do with my question?

[@piercedasian]

I'm sorry but what is your question?

[@rh8278]

My question was how to get more power from a running and driving 2004 Honda civic it will not pass another car

[@memphistenn77]

Fantastic video, thanks

[@piercedasian]

Glad you liked it.

[@jrelyuma9425]

Great video. Thank you.

[@piercedasian]

glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.