PINCH Multipitch Tutorial | EDELRID

Introducing the PINCH - an all-around brake-assisted belay device ideal for single rope multi-pitch climbing.
In this video Daniel, Head of Innovation at EDELRID, demonstrates how to utilize the PINCH for multi-pitching on single ropes.
Chapters:
00:00 - 00:23: Introduction
00:24 - 01:03: Belaying a lead climber
01:04 - 02:00: Belaying a second
02:01 - 02:23: 90° steps of orientation
02:24 - 02:34: Lowering a climber
02:35 - 02:48: Installing a pulley system
02:49 - 03:16: Rappelling
03:17 - 03:34: Conclusion
Uncover the versatility of the PINCH:
- Single rope multi-pitch belay device with direct harness attachment
- Ideal for lead climbing, belaying a second, lowering, and rappelling
- Body- and fixed-point belay in swapping leads
- 90° steps of orientation
For more information, including FAQs, visit our website: edelrid.com/int-en/sport/bela...

[@climbing4life23]

This devices is sooo cool, well done Edelrid!!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Thanks for this video!

[@bifty9]

If connected directly to the harness for lead climbing how is it prevented to open accidently? I don't see a full locking mechanism.

[@sebastianestrada4690]

There is a button that you have to press so that the device can open

[@camstorrs]

@@sebastianestrada4690 In addition to the button, their is an safety feature that blocks the device from opening when attached to a belay loop.

[@ichwillquark]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqGlg5qriKZ9g5Y In their new talk they finally show the lip up close. The moving half of the device is held down by the belay loop as well. So as long as there is any kind of light load on it, it cannot really open. Would need a multi-step freak accident for that to happen.

[@brakza]

@@ichwillquark true. But that stuff does happend at times, at this is not redundant for that spesific case. I find it really strange they didnt engineer and design a more redundant system regarding this! Makes me a bit more hesitant to buy it.

[@edelrid]

The opening mechanism requires a multiway action: swing open the side plate whilst pushing the button at the same time. Furthermore, the geometry of the side plates prevents from accidentally opening the device under load even if you manage to press the button. You can optionally use a carabiner as a backup using direct attachment method, or chose the conventional method using a locking carabiner. Of course, the device is field- and lab for both attachment methods. Each of the methods can have its advantage, and since the PINCH offers both, it is up to the user to decide whether the direct attachment or the conventional method suits best. Check out our tutorial video on basic functions of the PINCH here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/imHZh5xjZbproNk

[@user-ne4hn1lz9h]

Danke für die Darstellung. Wie fixierst Du das Seil beim Abseilen an einem Strang?

[@edelrid]

The rope can be locked at the anchor like shown in this video at around 03:00 minutes. A separate video tutorial for different techniques is in preparation. Abseiling on single ropes is not a new technique and advice can also be found in alpine climbing courses or educational books. 🙂

[@RobouVideos]

When is the Switch Adjust lanyard available in Europe?

[@MrHassancehef]

cool device, I really like the idea of the screw to remove antipanic! 1:52, so you can belay a lead climber in fall factor 2 onto that device?!! What would be the force onto the climber? did this device allow more slippage than competitor? Many action on single (bomber) anchor (0:14, 3:03), it's interesting how much climbing culture can be different depending of the country, in some it would unthinkable to show that. at 2min, the pinch cam is oriented toward the rock (and then install in a more confortable orientation), is there a risk of non locking (cam pushing against the rock) as with similar products?

[@edelrid]

The PINCH offers 4 attachment points in 90°-steps of orientation when fixing it to the anchor point. A preferable orientation would be where both the lever is accessible and the cam works freely (as in minute 02:18 in the above-video).

[@german_arborist]

Den Pinch werde ich mir eh als Hansesicherung zulegen, aber was sind das für Handschuhe bei 2:02?

[@jsollien127]

Since Tommy Caldwell had a Finger in the development of the pinch, could we please get a video of him using it? (No disrespect to mr. Gebel, I'm a big fan of Daniel as well)

[@Noetherium]

What are the advantages over using a Grigri in the same way?

[@procerator]

You can't clip GriGri directly to belay loop. Clipping directly to belay loop gives you extra 20-30cm when you give out slack.

[@edelrid]

That may depend on the claim and requirement of the individual user. However the main advantages towards other cam assisted braking belay devices can be defined as the option for direct attachment to the central loop of your harness and the 4 attachment points in 90°-steps of orientation when fixing it to the anchor point. Please check out our various tutorial videos and our website for more detailed specifications on the device.

[@Zorbas75]

I don't see the difference to grigri other than the option to clip it onto the harness without using a carabiner. Right?

[@joshbrainerd]

I believe their are three selling points all related to what you mention. but I could be wrong about any as I haven't used and also am not actually saying any have merit. (1) You can have more orientations for things like belaying from top. When you clip without biner, (2) you can save a biner and (3) you can also get the device much closer to belay loop.

[@edelrid]

Please watch the full video for all details about the PINCH: - There are 2 options to connect the PINCH with the harness (01:10 - 01:45) - Direct harness connections has safety and handling related advantages (01:45 - 02:30) - Left-handers can use same method to pay out rope - While lowering a person: grooves with breaking rips give extra friction when using a very thin or very soft rope (04:14), allows linear rope feed - When lowering a very light person or lowering with a lot of friction in the rope system, the anti-panic function has a second breaking unit / can be overwritten (04:50) - Anti-panic function can be deactivated (04:50) *note: expert use only! - Certification according to EN-12841 in progress

[@user-ph3md9oi2x]

To make this a perfect device for multi-pitch climbing, it should have the feature to install the rope while the device is still securely connected to the harness, similar to the Petzl Rig/I'D type of devices. The design of the Pinch is almost there with the button-operated side plate, so why didn't Edelrid incorporate this feature?

[@SteveMcMief]

What kind of rope bag are you using while rappelling?

[@edelrid]

That would be our TILLIT multipitch rope bag! ➡edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/backpacks-and-rope-bags-shop/tillit

[@travelandeat8157]

Bin mit vielen Edelrid Produkten sehr zufrieden ! Aber wieso gibt es kein deutschsprachiges Video ?

[@ralfrussel1950]

3:03 Why do you rappel on a single point?

[@jsollien127]

Is this rhetorical?

[@MichaelBrodmann]

smart alpine is still the most versatile belay device

[@z1522]

Concerns about random opening if clipped directly to the belay loop or anchor should not be dismissed. In a longer 45 minute video, the interviewer casually opens and removes a loaded but unweighted Pinch from a belay loop, simply by giving an inch of slack to the loop. No 90 degree rotation needed, and worse, earlier prototypes were revealed to have had a more typical three-step release protocol, but they dropped it as too complicated - even though the UIAA has vigorously pressed for two and three-step locking biners in belay applications. I've lost half a dozen acquaintances in the past two years, in mostly avoidable circumstances, and I am tired of memorials without anything learned. If a rare sequence of events can happen, given enough user hours, it WILL happen, and some belayer messing with their anchor will manage to unclip a loaded Pinch, and watch it go skittering out of reach, a now unbelayed and clueless climber on the other end of the rope. Immediate recall, or certain lawsuits - their choice.

[@masoudkhanjani1820]

Edelride already developed Eddy why design new one?

[@edelrid]

At EDELRID we strive to improve our climbing gear to corresponds to the latest technologies materials and developments in the markets. For example, one innovative technology of the PINCH is the option for direct attachment to the harness which the EDDY does not feature, amongst other major differences between the belay devices.

[@TrueHelpTV]

Dear God this is Death -15 year Radio Tower Specialist *@Edelrid you should add a little spring loaded pull pin on the gate so it can't swing open unless you pull the pin to release the swinging side while simultaneously pushing the button. To preserve the ability to make it a one handed operation, the pull pin could have an added feature where you pull to release the gate, but you can pull then twist the pin to lock it in the open position. Relying on the rope to be what prevents the gate from swinging open should the button get depressed means you're now also relying on the stiffness and diameter of the rope in addition to the weight on the rope which might actually make it easier to flip the gate off the rope, or if its taking a side loaded fall and needs the rope to save the day because now your alignment to make the feature even work is gone on a side loaded fall with a panicked person death gripping and squeezing the button. PLEASE add a secondary lock feature that requires the user to enact a force to the device which is opposite of the button. IE you need a force from the left to push the button, you need a force from the right to pull the pin.. no nobody will death grip it during a fall and open it, or side load it, button pops and the gate bypasses the rope and swings open.. But hey, I would love to play with one if youll send me one to test and send you some ideas.

[@TheArmyKnifeNut]

I won't have true confidence in something like this novel attachment method until channels like Hard Is Easy or HowNot2 get their hands on it and start testing it under less than ideal condition. This attachment method is really cool, and I think it has the potential to be amazing, but part of me worries that it will have some flaw and we should wait for version 2.0 or some other company's imitation that addresses the concern. I really wish that there was some sort of two part mechanism instead of a single button that "shouldn't" be able to open up during use. Other than the unique attachment method and it's ability to rorate by 90 degrees when hanging from an anchor (2/4 of which depend on thay attachment method), this does really little to differentiate it from a Grigri or other similar caming devices. And if that unconventional attachment method is anything less than 110% bomber, it will be a pass until it is. Now, to Edelrid, if you want to earn some good will from the community, send some samples out to gear testing channels prior to release with no strings attached. If the product stands for itself in their tests, you will sell out of your first run. If not... well, you'll have gotten a head start on your redesign

[@chrisowen4723]

I can assure you that whatever testing Edelrid and their engineers have done is significantly more robust and trustworthy than amateurs "testing" things in their garage. To suggest that a respected manufacturer needs to have some internet personality conduct some slapdash testing on their gear in order to validate their work it is absolutely ridiculous.

[@TheArmyKnifeNut]

@@chrisowen4723 That's hilarious. Let me guess... you also take MBS as gospel truth and believe that everyone will only ever use gear exactly as the manufacturer intends. I believe that this device (like all gear) complies with published testing standards according to standard procedures, but automatically assuming that they went the extra mile without indepent testing is optimistic at best, foolish at worst. Watch the long interview on the channel. The guest asked about why it wasn't certified for 11.0 mm ropes in the professional certification. The Edelrid employee admits that it failed the test and they couldn't explain exactly why. While I appreciate his transparency, it highlights that they aren't infallible engineers and there's at least a possibility that there could be unintended failure modes that could conceivable arrise under routine use. So yes... I will gladly await the "amateur" "slapdash" testing that focuses less on ideal circumstances and more on the worst case freak scenarios that might lead to a one in a million in real life accident. But you do you guy.

[@shLSS]

@@chrisowen4723 I second that!

[@sampfeiffer3372]

​@@chrisowen4723I do believe that your argument is true, however, edelrid does not publish videos of how they test it (understandable to be honest). Normal people are able to understand better and relate to the device capabilities by having these KZbinrs, with good intentions, test the devices.

[@pawsnpistons]

​@@chrisowen4723 If that would be true for any company with many engineers how come that automotive companys with literally thousands of engineers are recalling their vehicles for safety concerns (newest example would be tesla).