Plane Making - Hollows and Rounds

How I make hollows and rounds from scratch.

[@rostoi6985]

Congratulations and thanks for thé sharing.

[@beerymr]

Thanks for sharing your experience. You’ve done craftsman-quality work and should be proud of it!

[@usuariodelgoogle]

Thank you so much for this video!!

[@doczoff5655]

Thank you for sharing such an informative and complete 'how to' for the common man. I'm slowly collecting and restoring antique hollows and rounds for my own use, your advice in this video is immediate help in diagnosing and resolving a lot of the issues found in flea market planes ( and spotting those planes that are beyond repair). Ultimately I do aspire to making my own moulding planes and I will definitely use and benefit from your advise and experience provided here.

[@garykokx5214]

Thank you, fantastic videos! You did have a video on the making the jig that shapes the bottom of the hollow plane that is used with the 50” plane (Godzilla). Is that video still available? Thanks so much, Gary Kokx.

[@ROUGHCUT20]

Still available on Rumble: rumble.com/v26wzur-the-rise-of-the-giants.html

[@garykokx5214]

@@ROUGHCUT20 Thanks so much! I found it.

[@philpascel4144]

This really is a fantastic video! You provide a lot of food for thought on your build processes, which then stimulates all sorts of other ideas for creating jigs, increasing efficiencies, and general problem solving. It's nice to find these rare gems on KZbin! Question: Early in the video, you mentioned you had to locate a line on each end of the blank that was 7/32nds from the edge, and then you created a spacer that was precisely 7/32nds. I'm wondering what problem you needed to solve with the spacer, and where did you place the it? Thanks!

[@ROUGHCUT20]

For the 7/16 ths hollow, I needed to locate a point on both ends so the jig would work correctly. I did that one last since it took time to figure out I could use a drill bit as a spacer. I registered a piece of steel off the side, placed the drill bit against it, stacked another piece of steel against that, removed the first 2 and drew a line. Then did the same with a 7/16 spacer, but from the bottom. The "point" is where the 2 lines meet. Doing all that with a scale or tape measure would have produced errors, a stray pencil line would have been a problem and I don't have enough material for do overs.

[@philpascel4144]

@@ROUGHCUT20 That's the kind of detail you wouldn't intuitively think about beforehand and then not realize it until it was too late. Again, this highlights the value of these sorts of videos. Thank you!

[@ROUGHCUT20]

@@philpascel4144 My first answer was incorrect, please look at my edited answer. Thank You !

[@DavidSmith-se4ks]

Hey. This is incredible stuff. It makes it even more enjoyable that you have the exact same accent as my beloved uncle who grew up on Staten Island. Question: would you make hollows and rounds to sell? I would much rather buy from you than try to track some down from across the pond.

[@ROUGHCUT20]

I prefer "teaching you to fish" rather than giving you a few fish. The ball is now in your court. Good luck.

[@waynevanderveer6044]

Very nice is there any plans for the jointer plane and the jigs you used in the process?

[@ROUGHCUT20]

No plans, sorry.

[@michaelgates9072]

How did you taper your cutters/irons? So they lock in with the wedge…

[@ROUGHCUT20]

I've never tapered a blade in any plane I made. I did a video on the subject of tapered blades : kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIrYd5eupbmWaJY You can look through that, add to the discussion there, if you like. Personally, I don't feel the need to have tapered blades, they hold well enough if you fit the wedge and the pocket tightly. If anything, the taper helps with the removal of the blade, after you're done using it.

[@dutch1018]

when you temper the blade at 400deg for a hr, do you quench it in oil?

[@ROUGHCUT20]

Under the fire first, till non magnetic, then quenched in Canola oil....Tempered @ 400 deg for one hour. It's something that deserves more research, I'm not really an authority but my blades are serving me well, so far. Good Luck !

[@valdolandar534]

Why all the blades hollow and round (that I have seen everywhere) are asymmetric, and the design of the wood block too asymmetric. In the end they all have a weak little tail to hold them. Thanks in advance.

[@ROUGHCUT20]

If the plane body would have to be precisely as wide as the intended cut, small planes would be difficult to build, for me, with the wedge pocket getting very narrow and hardly any mass available to hold the plane together. The old timers who made the original planes probably had other reasons.

[@whdaffer1]

What is the clicking noise that happens at the end of each stroke during the initial molding of the bottom of the plane, say at about 5:35

[@ROUGHCUT20]

The sound you hear is the "device" hitting the stops.

[@whdaffer1]

Rough Cut Ok. Thanks

[@whdaffer1]

Do you have any videos of you making a molding plane that has a more complicated cross section?

[@ROUGHCUT20]

@@whdaffer1 I have a 2 part series on making ogee moulding planes...using the hollows and rounds from this video.

[@whdaffer1]

Rough Cut thanks. I’ll look for it