Planing Jig - How to Use Your Planer to Joint Wood | Woodworking Jig

In this woodworking video I show you joint wood using a homemade planer jig you can easily build.
Jointing wide lumber boards on a planer can easily be accomplished using this planing jig and few wooden wedges.
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** Read Full Article on How to Use Your Planer to Joint Wood: goo.gl/OTRT9w
Anti-slip material: amzn.to/2ilkNO1
It's not too often you can adapt any of your woodworking tools to do other things, but when you can it's like having a brand new woodworking tool in your shop. Such is the case when you can turn you planer into a wide board jointer.
Normally a thickness planer is used to plane wood to an even thickness after one face side has already been jointed and is flat and even. If you are in a situation where you have a board that is wider than your jointer, it is possible to joint on face of a board using your planer. The simple trick to this is to make a planing jig from a flat board like a high density fiber board. The idea is to insert wooden wedges in the gaps between your jig and your board to be planed. What this does is prevent your board that is being jointed from rocking in the planer and coming out as warped as it was when it went in. By forcing it to be be stable, the planer has a chance to shave the top edge of the board, thus giving you one flat side. To make your board an even thickness, simply turn it over so the flat side is down and plane your board to thickness and in no time you will have exactly what you are looking for, a wide, flat, evenly planed board ... all with the help of a simple planing jig.
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[@danparks8894]

The anti slip mats are amazing. So glad to see you use them as some of the 'complex jigs' I've seen are ridiculously over-engineered and don't produce any better results. Thanks for the really helpful video.

[@richlindecker461]

Here's an alternative method. I had a piece of walnut that was twisted, and I had no flat base to put it on. So, I cut two strips of pine. Lay the walnut on a countertop that's flat, and attach the strips of pine to each side, so that they touch the countertop from front to back. I used panel nails to do this. Then run it through the planer. The strips form the flat bottom, and you can easily plane a flat surface. Then, remove the strips and plane the opposite side. Works like a charm.

[@ChiDuly]

This is 100% the way. because if you make those strips a couple inches longer than your board, you’ve simultaneously solved another huge problem….planer snipe.

[@realtrax1586]

How would you adapt that to process an abundance of material? I’ve got 200 8-14 inch long scrap Pieces of wood from pallet I’m trying to reclaim and looking for the most expedient way of doing it

[@michael.schuler]

I use similar sleds but run them through the planer with the cleat at the front instead of the back. As the power feed rollers move the work piece through the planer, the work piece naturally brings the sled forward with it. Also, for thinner work pieces (say less than 4/4) and/or shorter planer tables, the sled can take the form of a carefully constructed torsion box to assure flatness.

[@jrgal27]

But it would depend on what you are pushing through workpiece or sled

[@sj-kp1ks]

This confuses me, too. I've watched several KZbin videos and have also seen plans for a planer sled in woodworking magazines. Most have the cleat at the front but some have it at the back, as in this particular video. My understanding is that the rollers turn to move the piece (and sled) forward through the machine, and the cutter heads rotate in the opposite direction, against that movement. If the workpiece and sled were solidly affixed to one another a cleat would not be needed. If the workpiece could slide forward over the sled - moved by the rollers - you need the cleat at the front. If the workpiece could slide backwards over the sled - moved by the cutterhead - you need the cleat at the back. But this situation can't happen because the pressure and movement of the rollers resist the movement imparted to the workpiece by the cutterhead. So I think the cleat has to be on the front. Can anyone explain why I'm wrong?

[@basketballjones6782]

@@sj-kp1ks You're not. The cleat needs to be at the leading edge. We don't care what the cutting head is doing, since it is only applying forces to the board being planed; we only care what force is imparted on the sled by the board being planed. If the rollers which force the board through the machine were on the bottom instead of the top where the cutter is, then we'd want the cleat in the back, because the rollers would be able to slide the sled out from under the work piece. In this case, it's the opposite, so we want the cleat in the front. It's amazing how often I see people mistake this fact, as well as the one about it being required to even the amount of rock/warp from one side to the other. The only thing that does is require less passes through the planer at the expense of longer setup time.

[@craftedworkshop]

That's awesome Colin. Really dig this idea. My jointer can be inconsistent sometimes.

[@knecht105]

+Crafted Magazine Glad this was helpful for you

[@kscamara123]

Great! Thank you! BTW, if the planed vs. unplaned part of the wood surface will not be that visible, I "scribble" the surface of the wood with chalk and that helps.

[@jeffdeluca1153]

I see you say you used High Density Fiberboard, is that better than MDF which is more readily available?

[@christianbuzio9468]

as usual a clean, useful, video! and will never stop to thank you for tour so-clear speech understandable for english dummies Luke me😁 hugs from Italy

[@knecht105]

+christian buzio Thanks buddy, I appreciate the kind words and your feedback ..

[@giantpune]

Thank for the tip! Never seen anybody glue boards with mustard before. I may try that. Sams has 5 gallon buckets of mustard on sale and it would save me a ton if it works.

[@keithbryan9567]

Makes great hot dogs one day and then holds your carefully hand cut dovetails together the next. Just watch out for overflow unless you like your wood to be died yellow! LOL

[@joshisms2pesosonaquascapin164]

Kids eat glue, while wood workers use mustard to adhere wood...

[@akbychoice]

Soon you’ll catchup

[@cosmai23]

Mmmmm....mustard glue.

[@condor5635]

Nothing better than gluing up 14 panels with mustard and then turning to the grill for some dogs!

[@rfcilia]

what a great video, learn something new every time I watch your videos, thanks Colin!

[@knecht105]

+rfcilia Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate that ...

[@MichaelDavis-cv6rr]

WoodWorkWeb

[@jthomas2853]

I have always heard to get a planer first as you can edge joint on a table saw or router and face joint with a planer.

[@nodnal1329]

Mike P exactly what I thought as well. A jointer will flatten sides but not necessarily make them parallel. But you can do both with a planer so planer first in my book

[@asabot4you683]

WOW...Really nice video Colin!! I just got my planer and am watching some videos on this exact topic. YOURS is one of the best! So simple, but you explain everything perfectly. Thank you so much for clarifying this all for me and saving me some money! I don't think I need a jointer just yet and will use your technique.

[@EricRShelton]

Much simpler solution than some others I've seen! Thanks so much!

[@ChickenDinnerz]

Thanks very much for this video. Do you have any advice for running long boards using this method? So far I'm really struggling to keep the board the same level all the way through the thicknesser.

[@seattlevkk]

Great review, thanks for sharing. Any pointer to the anti-slip mat you used?

[@JS-rp7qb]

Know this is old, but its area rug underlayment. Also great for holding pieces while edge routing

[@digidandan]

You have placed the wooden fence at the wrong side. piece of a wood is moving forward, so it’s logic that the fence needs to be placed in front of a stock. Fence placed at the back does nothing.

[@maryellenking1863]

Whoa! I’m still recovering from serious injury from kickback from my planer. Emergency room and all! I’m so grateful for this video so I’m not afraid to use my planer now, because of the stop at the back.

[@jrgal27]

Daniel you are a clown ,you should not be comenting on something you simply do not know about the blades of the planer are trying to move wood back therefore stop at back

[@nino3798]

Very good explanation Colin! Greetings from Italy.

[@captaink118]

Would you do anything differently for boards that exceed 6 or 7 ft long?

[@phillipdoan9919]

I have a planer. I thought I will have to buy a jointer. Not anymore. thank you very much.

[@wuddude1599]

If you can afford and have space for a jointer it's a good idea to get one. For squaring up stock the jointer gives a nice clean edge.

[@jamessnyder1637]

What material would you recommend using to build a larger sled 10' long by 12" wide? Even if I could get away with an 8' long sled will the high density fiberboard remain flat?

[@JamesKelly89]

I think, from my experience, that you need a torsion box for anything longer than a few feet.

[@daveknecht5252]

Before I got a jointer I used this idea too, and it works well. The anti skid pad is a great idea! One thing I had to deal with, is the sled and the board you are working with can be pretty heavy together and if the board is long, it can be a little unwieldy. I had to fashion an outfeed extension to help support the weight of wood as it came out of the planer.

[@knecht105]

+Dave Knecht Yup ... that's where the anti skid really helps ... even the very thin stuff works great

[@aaron4376]

Omg THANK YOU SO MUCH. I knew there had to be a way to use a plainer as a Jointer, i made a table for it..... lol i didnt SHIM IT. I was halfway there. Using the old tools of my grandfather and father and 80% self taught from AMAZING KZbinrs like you and a touch of cleverness. Thx

[@54ChickenHawk]

If you run your uneven board thru planer where it barely takes any wood off then turn your board over and run it back thru without resetting the planer, do this a number of times and it will true the board up. I have proved this to non believers time and time again. The trick is not to take much of a bite as you go. It does take longer to do it this way but it can be done. Thanks for your vidio's.

[@jtp1389]

You spelled video incorrectly (vidio), and you're trying to one-up the professional in the video. You're an imbecile

[@mo-ni]

Hm, you have a new dust mask.. what can you tell about it, is it good for MDF sanding? It looks more comfortable than 3M respirators.

[@mo-ni]

+m Ni ok, I understand in previous videos...

[@iamthekwan]

Wow this is crazy clever, I just came here from another planer/jointer jig video and this is far simpler - less fancy but hey whatever works right? Awesome stuff, thanks so much!

[@BronkBuilt]

Another method is to use your jointer to flatten the 6 inches, leaving the other 2 or so inches. Then take a known flat board that is 6 inches wide or more. Place your stock on the known flat board so that the jointed surface lays flat on your board with the other 2 inches off the side. then run it through the planer to flatten the top. Not sure if I explained that well or not. Just another way of doing it, although your removes the need for the jointer which is great.

[@carterscustomrods]

6:29 I realize the anti-skid material is thin (when compessed) but does it end up altering any aspect of thickness and/or flatness? Shouldn't the anti-skid material cover as much of the base as possible?

[@davidwisniewski1505]

Thanks a million Colin. So helpful! I just finished my 9ft planer sled. I have a jointer but it’s clumsy to do long boards so I’m using my planer now. Let the machine does the work!

[@glennfelpel9785]

I believe this technique produces a better result then the jointer. And, I use a laminated sub-base on my 15 inch planer as well, I feel like it reduced planer snipe on my planer completely.

[@knecht105]

+Glenn Felpel Hi Glenn ... interesting comment ... I am still getting a wee bit of snipe, thanks for your comment going to check mine closer

[@scrapplepig]

Is mustard good for bonding two pieces of wood together?

[@WoodenCreationz]

Great Advice. I have seen this done with hot glue, but the non slip pad is way easier! ty

[@knecht105]

+WoodenCreationz I have done it with the hot glue, only problem sometimes it sticks so well you have to almost chip the glue off ... double sided tape works great too ... thanks buddy, good comment for others to learn from too

[@WoodenCreationz]

+WoodWorkWeb back at yA man! For sure a great channel and one I have learned a lot from! Ty for your time! Hope you get plenty of time to play and build in your spare time as well as teaching us! Brian

[@dsingh1183]

This is great! I’ve been in a pickle recently. I have slabs too wide for the jointer, and I don’t want to create a router jig, but I can easily create a planer jig as you did here!

[@WoodByWright]

Fantastic Idea! Almost makes me want to get one now! thanks for the inspiration!

[@knecht105]

+Wood By Wright lol ... all things in good time I say, thanks for your comment

[@TheShavingWoodWorkshop]

That's a great technique and jig Collin !

[@knecht105]

+The ShavingWood Workshop Thanks Tommy ...

[@mae2759]

Fantastic. Just bought a bench top planer and this is exactly what I need!

[@fododude]

Works great on 3-inch thick stock but thinner boards will flex under the rollers, necessitating more and more wedges. You're going to have trouble.

[@thetruth5366]

High Density Fiberboard, where do I get it? I have looked at Home Depot and Lowes but they only have MDF.

[@FryChicken]

This is great. I plan on doing this. Where the @#%# do I find a suitable piece of HDF. Seems impossible to find.

[@KleshGuitarsOfficial]

I really like this idea. I'm building my shop out right now and think instead of getting the big 10" jointer and 20" planer, I really just need a small (and affordable) 6" jointer and that 20" planer will take care of the rest

[@fonstersnickare_johansson8375]

There are another point with doing this, which I like and that is that it is safer. You don't have to move your hands and arms across the cutter.

[@jeremylowe7029]

Thank you for this! As a new woodworker trying to decide what to buy this makes life so much easier. Not just that, but the space savings is pretty great as well.

[@emilmetzger4177]

This isn't "jointing", it's flattening. I've made a 90 degree jig that allows me to square up 2 perpendicular sides to each other using a thickness planer, I should make a video of it. It's a simple concept, flatten one side, use the method shown in this video if necessary. Then secure the work piece in a 90 degree jig using the newly flattened surface as the reference. Run that through the planer and there you have it. There are, of course, some limitations to this, and that would be the height capacity of your planer. For instance, my planer can accommodate 6", and with the bottom of my jig being 3/4", that leaves a max workpiece height of 5'1/4".

[@bobbg9041]

Was that French's yellow glue? ok where you find the yellow glue seeds? Ok I'm joking, but pay attention people he's crafty he's using a empty mustard bottle to hold his glue thats crafty he didn't have to rush out and pay 12 bucks for a special glue bottle it was free after eating a bunch of hot dogs. I'm going to tell you my wife buys a lot of fruit cups that hold applesauce pudding pears peaches pineapples I make her save them, wash them out they are great for holding glue when assembling projects and there free. get it dirty put somthing in it that won't come out throw it away no big deal. You haven't wasted a lot of money on special cups. in cooking " Not city in china" they call that frugal! I'll bet the long infeed outfeed helps with snipe too.

[@Razor1rot]

So did you used to be a high school shop teacher? because you talk to your KZbin viewers like ignorant high school kids. Not really complaining, I like your content. Its just a bit off-putting sometimes and having been a HS shop teacher would completely explain it. lol

[@ronc5386]

Great tip on using the thickness planer to help eliminate a warp on a wide board. Thanks for sharing Colin, also nice looking wood that you will be working with.

[@knecht105]

+Ron C Thank Ron, yes thats some Garry oak, actually I used that on the top for the standing desk for a better look.

[@Marrio49]

Like most of your videos. I’d like to correct you on jointer terminology. What you’re doing is called ‘’ Surfacing or Facing’’. Jointing is running a board on edge with it against the fence to attain an angle usually 90 degrees or square to the face or now the reference side of the board. Another common misused term that people very often use is ‘’squaring the table saw fence to the blade. Incorrect! It is called setting the fence ‘’ parallel to the blade.

[@DonnieKluck]

How thick is your piece of HDF? Could you use MDF instead if I am not able to find HDF? I seem to see some HDF but it is only 1/8" (3mm). So just wondering so I can make my sled.

[@b3owu1f]

So I take it the main reason to get both a jointer and a planer is to avoid having to rig/shim on a planer? I am a hobbyist at best with limited room, just got the 735x planer. My thinking is this with helical blade setup (extra addon I gotta install), and a jig like this would work well for my occasional twisted board and not need a jointer? Just curious though this looks easy enough to do, unless you are having lots of wood that needs jointing and then planing, why not just use a single tool with a simple jig like this all the time?

[@diggerdeb]

Great video. Not having a jointer, this will come in handy. By the way, do you like that face mask you were wearing? Is it better than a half face mask ?

[@knecht105]

+Deb Malloy Hi Deb ... next video will describe that mask for you .. thanks for asking, good to know you are helping your lungs ... I need to be more vigilant at it too

[@TheConcretelizard]

I tried this, but the wood I planed came out slightly bowed. I am trying to narrow down what is going on here. I used MDF underneath and wedged the board on both sides. Could it be that the MDF underneath wasn't perfectly flat? Or could it be that the tables on the planer were simply not within the proper adjustment? Anyone with thoughts about what is happening. I drew all over the top of the board with pencil, and only took off a tiny bit until all of the pencil was removed.

[@Justicejamesb]

Mr. Knecht, awesome video sir! Thank you so much for sharing the art of woodworking with the younger generation. Absolutely love your channel!!

[@mundlkalli4396]

Great video and demo. Thank you. !! I am new to a planer. Have not used it yet. You mentioned that your first piece will be ran thru a few times. What was your setting on the planer. I.E. was it the lowest setting ? 1/16 1/8. ?? Thank you again !

[@lisamackarous5239]

Hi , I ve got a dewalt planer jesus its so fustrating I ve done all the shimming part I built a sled and I still cant get one side flat and now I ve got some of my black walnut all different size s I need help on what to do cause I don't want to waist my wood I ve gone from 1" to 3/4 and some are at 1/2 .

[@adamntrace]

Actually I would probably disagree with the cleat at the back your fears of pushing the timber back off the sled aren’t warranted. The infeed rollers will pull the timber straight off the sled forward leaving the sled behind. I know u put matting down to prevent that but a cleat by itself at the front of the sled means the matting is not required. Other than that great video always love watching your videos mate.

[@arielalejandrito]

You’re a genius I’ve looking for a video like this for almost 3 months now thank you for sharing you got a new subs here keep up the awesome videos

[@ninosirianni7687]

Enjoy all your videos. Does it matter which end of the sled goes into the infeed of planer. Some KZbin videos have the heel go first to offset the rollers pulling the wood forward. With sharp blades I would guess that you do not have much force pushing back. I would like to know more on your thoughts with the heel going last to offset the cutters rotation. Thanks.

[@rexseven6907]

Wouldn't it make more sense to use the sled in the opposite direction, with the stop block in front? As the feed rollers pull the board you are cutting through it could try to pull it through while leaving the sked behind, but I don't see how the sled could move forward with the board you are cutting staying stationary.

[@epeiusgarage]

Perfect! About to buy my first planer. I’ll need this for sure as I do not have room for a jointer

[@tooljunkie555]

good stuff colin! I am about to begin building a dining table for my wife and I'm having the exact same issues with some 5 feet long 2 inch thick Cherry boards I just went and grab them and didn't bother to take the time to see if they were Warped or twisted.. all five boards are twisted thanks for sharing this video it's giving me some hope LOL

[@andreasengst7048]

Hi, i don't know if it's been already mentiont in the comments here. The little stop board always belongs to the end of the jig. The danger is on the infeed side of the planer because of the speed and force of the cutterheadmovement. the outfeedside is less critical, the transportrollers are to slow to cause real danger. Honestly - you should not show such dangerous usage of a planerjig to people here.

[@jeffdeluca1153]

I have the same planer. Great machine. It does cut about .014 lower on one side than the other and there is really no adjustment to my knowledge. Could I make up the difference by setting the knives .014 out of level to compensate. Or maybe measuring these tolerances with digital calipers is way good for woodworking. I think its like 1/64 of an inch which in 15 inches is undiscernable . Thoughts? Thank you

[@tatiwamoto6767]

Hi, just saw this video, and have a question. Isn't the sled used in the wrong direction? Since the rollers on the planer is pulling the stock, it seems the stopper on the sled should go in first to prevent the stock from moving on the sled. Am I getting something wrong?

[@robertpierce2519]

Great video and clear instruction. Why do you American boys call them planers, it's a thicknesser and the jointer is a planer.😂😂😂

[@danwas44]

Great idea, quick question, can the base sled be 7' long? i have some long boards i need perfectly flat.

[@CWK09]

Daniel Richards I would say you could as long as your planar table was long enough or stable enough to support it entering and exiting the planer.

[@stewall101]

Thanks for a great demonstration. BTW I was recently looking for a simple yet efficient face mask. I like the look of your but where did you get it?

[@knecht105]

+Stephen Wallace Great comment on the mask Stephen ... next video will explain it all ... thanks buddy!!

[@mgeez6147]

what do you think about the jet combo planer and jointer vs de walt 13 inch planer -- which one would you get? 10 inch is about the same price as dewalt

[@orbepa]

I love your videos Colin - but this one is particularly brilliant and massively relevant to me. I really struggle planing longer boards and this is excellent. Can't wait to try it this weekend.

[@jamiewatson9886]

What is the solution for planing long planks of lumber that is twisted? Most jigs I have seen are shorter than some of the lumber I would plane down.

[@flatbaroque]

uuhhh 3:54 is my jam

[@TTSetters]

@08:14 Yes, the snipe is there though. Once you see, you can't unsee.

[@A6Legit]

What's the edge joint hack that renders jointers useless?!

[@paideiadistribution2786]

I wish I would have saw this video a long time ago!!!

[@dougprentice1363]

The stop should be on the leading edge, not the trailing. True the knives are pushing towards the trailing.... But the feed rollers are pushing it on the opposite direction.

[@Hylanda11800]

Colin, if you place a "half" wedge under both ends, I believe you don't lose so much wood thickness on one end So the planer will cut in two areas and therefore will be quicker and save wood. what do you think?

[@knecht105]

+Mcleod Duncan Depending on the board, yes that is possible to do

[@johnnybarbar7435]

Rethink what you will save after turning the board over and completing the planing on the second side. You either remove all the twist from one corner on the first side and none from the same corner on the second side or use your " half and half " process and remove half the twist on both sides of the same corner. After both sides are planed, there will be no difference in thickness.

[@basketballjones6782]

@D Incorrect. When doing this, one will be removing wood to the minimum thickness of the board, regardless of where it lives in the wood, and as such, regardless of how and where one shims the board. By the end of the day, THAT is all that matters.

[@hardnox6655]

Great demo Colin. I have the same setup and it works great. I put one coat of poly on the sled then waxed it on bottom. I use hot glue to hold the shims.

[@knecht105]

+Hardnox I have used hot glue but I find that it sometimes sticks too good and I have chisel it off after ... good quality double sided tape works good too,

[@gerhardbotha7336]

Why not use the jig with the lip at the front? You still wedge at the back, but let the planer rollers pull the piece in against the lip. Turn the jig around

[@paulchamberlaine6757]

Thank you yet again, You explain your methods beautifully clearly. You make my late adopted hobby so much more enjoyable. Sincere thanks.

[@rorygray2975]

You are feeding the wrong end of the jig into planer, the strip of wood glued on top at the end of the jig must be your front. If your work piece is not secure it's going to shoot out the front of the planer.

[@Samlol23_drrich]

Ok, here is my problem; I have seen this method before, however I have seen the little 3/4 inch support in the front of the piece of wood and fed through with the piece of wood going through the planer first. You send it through the opposite way, with the support piece going through last. Which is the right way? Does it matter?do all planer blades rotate in the same direction? Thanks

[@gaultjt]

+samlol23 Obviously, I'm not the OP, but you want the support piece at the back end. All planar blade rotate against the feed direction, otherwise they would just pull the wood through. The only reason I could think to have a support piece in the front would be for added stability on the sled itself, making it more sturdy. Having the support on the back end is a must, though.

[@XJWill1]

Absolutely wrong. The stop should be in front. The planer has rollers to pull the board forward against the force of the blades (which push backwards). Obviously the rollers are stronger, since the board is pulled forward. You need the stop in the front to prevent the rollers from pulling your board forward past the front of the sled.

[@clarkgarber5495]

If the rollers are missing, what feeds the wood through against the rotating planer knives?

[@johnedwards1968]

Rollers are just allowing the wood to move easily. The motion of the cutters/ planer knives pulls the wood through.

[@jrgal27]

Despicably Irascible Rapscallion absolute rubbish the rollers stop the blades from throwing the wood back at you

[@mattr0815]

He is not talking about missing feeder power rollers but rather the free rollers his player had on the bottom of the material instead of a flat bed like most modern planers have. His planer still has intact feeder rollers.

[@dm.2023]

Only French's mustard will work to really stick that wood strip down btw

[@TheNewports]

Would it not be better to put the thicker end in first? I am thinking that it would help u better gauge what to take off with each pass using the depth gauge and then allow it to taper off toward the thinner end.

[@jonyq04]

I would have though that the stop goes in the front of the jig not the back....

[@williamweatherall8333]

Jony Q yep, the planer has anti kickback knives dangling before the first feed roller. The only risk is the feed rollers pulling the board off of the mdf

[@jonathanmathews7673]

I was confused as to why you were putting yellow mustard on everything 😂

[@nicknolte6006]

Are you shure? What I learned today is: in MY planer, a Metabo DH330 the blade is cutting AGAINST the movement of the wood. This is important to know cause its also important to watch the layers oft the wood for best surface results: they should not move against the blade. (sorry for my english!) The stick pad will be compressed and lets the wood move down a bit, when the pressure comes on it. This will make a incorrect surface, maybe... Nice peace of flamed wood! I want it!

[@corvuscoronoides]

great tip man, and very clearly explained, thanks : ]

[@j.h.4570]

Expertly explained "ex" usual ;o) Always enjoy watching your videos and totally like your way of teaching/tutoring. Btw - judging from your family name, I suppose your ancestors were German/Austrian maybe? "Knecht" is the German word for a person working as a farmhand (supposedly you already knew of course)

[@TheAndymazz]

This was such good advice for me unfortunetely too late for my little project in making a Ladder shelf with wood i knew was warped.. I even tried to clamp the wood and soak in water for a week or so, but it didnt bring out the warp one little bit...So i carried on in making the shelf knowing the vertical struts were warped in the hope i might ba able to twist the warped wood back into shape whwn assembling!!! Big Mistake!! Now i have a nice Ladder shelf that looks like the shape of twisting DNA LOL... I'm going to save my pennies and buy a planer/thicknesser as i am boune to have future projects.... and any woood i buy in UK is usually warped and still at a premium price..

[@jimgreene3863]

good way to get it done but you need to joint the edge that will be sliding on the band saw table so you will have a flat & square plank after you resaw it

[@racma8698]

Hi Colin, that's a very very good trick. Excellent, thank you.

[@knecht105]

+Robert Matter Thanks Robert, yes it works well

[@horsetowater]

😱came here having misread the title expecting a little jig for a hand plane. sorry

[@RollinShultz]

Your far better off with a makeshift table than rollers anyway. Laminates are a low friction plastic, it would be hard to get a more low friction surface w/o moving to a more expensive UHMW which is a special plastic used for bearing surfaces. I like your idea and I will try it when I need it. I have opted to do w/o a joiner in my garage/shop to save room, so I'll use this on depth cuts and the table saw on width cuts.

[@Jshanks19]

If the wood is cupped should you plane the convex or concave side first.

[@missingegg]

I'm having a hard time deciding if I think this is unsafe. The thought of running a loose multi-board assembly through a high HP planer does make me a bit nervous. The problem with workshop accidents is that they're often a result of getting complacent about practices that work 99.9% of the time, and then it's the 0.1% that sends you to the ER. On the other hand, I like the idea of not needing to buy a 12" jointer. :-) If I try this, I'll probably make sure to stand off to the side to minimize injury if it goes horribly wrong.

[@WigWagWorkshop]

Mind Blown again Colin! What a great tip! -Steven

[@knecht105]

+WigWagWorkshop lol ... thanks buddy, another quote for my "best KZbin quotes" ... thanks again buddy !

[@TobiasCBrown]

Does this work with say cupped and other disfigured boards?

[@sailer5373]

I tried using the shelf non slip, but it slipped. The piece of wood also slid on the flat sled, and I had to try to reinstall the wedges each time. I finally double sided tape my work down to the sled, and that worked well, but now I have a lot of snipe in the work piece. Now I'm going to make a sled with pieces of sacrificial wood, longer than my work board, that will take the snipe before the planer blade gets to my workpiece. They will be glued to each side of my workpiece. Hopefully you will be able to understand what I'm explaining.

[@mitch58100]

Thank you, I just bought some 7' X 8/4 lumber the other day and I also bought a 4x8 sheet of fiber board and will use that to make a planer sled with a stop. I also purchased some sheets of 120 grit sandpaper and will put that on my sled and with the shims I purchased flatted the lumber. Very good video, great idea!

[@andreasgum3718]

I really enjoy this channel. You're very methodical when explaining. I have a question though. At 4:15 you mention why you can't use a planer to make the surface entirely flat: the piece will still wobble, hence the jig. Despite mentioning that, (since I haven't bought and used either a planer or jointer yet) I have a hard time understanding how the jointer can make a plane surface, but the planer can't. Why would the wobble still be there? You say it would, but the top would still be planed. It is because the jointer planes underneath and the planer on the top side? Thanks in advance to anyone enlightening me about this!

[@ignae]

Most videos on jigs are extremely complicated, cleam and simple. Anyone can do this. Great content.

[@JRS986]

Colin, Great approach with a good explanation. But I have a concern with the use of the cushion layer to prevent slip. I will agree it will prevent movement, but the proposed sandpaper will work fine. However, the cushion layer is compressible and the rollers in the planer will force your wood down into cushion layer creating a snipe condition. The sandpaper will be much less likely to snipe your board. Have you encountered the snipe or has anyone else seen this condition?

[@starseeddeluxe]

Wow. This is the best video on this subject, because it doesn't use hot glue or double stick tape. The anti-skid pad is a genius solution, and it's the first time I've seen this method. I did find that felt also does not like to slide against wood. I think felt sheets might work to completely stop the movement. After seeing the ease of this technique, I am starting to wonder if a jointer is even worth owning, considering the horror stories about them?