Planter Work

We get to work removing the main drive on the 7200 John Deere Planter.
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[@ethandegnitz5247]

We rebuild the drive shaft, seed chains fertilizer augers and the seed boxes last year and it worked great

[@zacmurray1848]

The stuff you always have to fix is the hardest to get to. Never fails. Great videos. Keep them coming.

[@ih1206]

Haha had to make a run to the toy store. I love going there, as long as I'm not paying the bill haha

[@lukestrawwalker]

Kinze has a better idea with their "scrub wheel" drive wheel that contacts and drives off the ground tire when the planter is lowered-- less risk of damage, particularly from rocks. The Deere planters driving off a cam-release chain-driven sprocket can skip or jump when the teeth on the clutches get worn and start to "jump teeth". We've replaced those on the BIL's planter because of that. They're also harder to keep adjusted and all that, and are down under the bar in front of the carry tires, making them susceptible to rock damage. Our 7100 Deere planter doesn't have the cam-release clutches to disengage the transmission when the planter is lifted, because the carry wheels are fixed to the bar instead of having lift cylinders, since the 3 point lifts the planter (it's mounted on the 3 point hitch rather than towed from the drawbar). So, when the carry wheels lift off the ground, they stop turning, stopping the seed flow until the planter is lowered and the wheels touch the ground. The BIL's new (to him) 1780 12/23 row 15 inch bean planter has all the carry wheels mounted in front of the toolbar, since there's no room to mount them behind the bar between the row units that are only 15 inches apart. It uses a scrub wheel like the Kinze planters and puts everything up higher and much less susceptible to rock damage. Later! OL J R :)

[@georgiaswampman4542]

People don't realize that being a farmer means that you have to be a very good mechanic also, to save on repair costs.

[@FendtMF]

Ya need some row clutches on that beast!

[@waterskiingfool]

Dang rocks wrecking stuff

[@jacob-ze1ed]

I see you got the 4640 out of the shed!!

[@jak9506]

Great vid

[@woollyacres]

we have that exact same planter only ours dosent have the dry fertilizer on it.

[@michaelcarley7016]

Just a small comment, do you fellas ever wash anything?

[@thecornishdairyboys5679]

will the large amount of chans on the planter do u guys go around every so often with chain lude or something and lubricae them or is there some sort of auto oiler like on the big square baler head drive chains

[@woollyacres]

the trick we use on our planter is to take all the chains off and soak them in diesel fuel over the fall and winter. then you won't have to lubricant them during planting season

[@thecornishdairyboys5679]

fair enough me being me though id go round it every so often to lub em up cuase lubricants done last that long

[@muddysprings9746]

How warm is it there

[@lucasvannest3600]

awesome

[@farmvideos3390]

Is that the new planter

[@farmvideos3390]

+John Haas ok thanks was not shure

[@redandshirley3568]

put a contact drive wheel on there from pequea planter

[@douglasbuhr5741]

gears and chains. how dose that planter work?

[@johndeerefarmer5993]

Douglas Buhr vacuum

[@lukestrawwalker]

The carry tires (the big tires that lift the planter off the ground) turn a sprocket on the hubs that drives a chain. The chain drives a one-way ratchet clutch on that bar they replaced, so the one way ratchet clutch acts like a differential for planting on curves (faster outside wheel drives the planter, inside wheel ratchets). When the planter lifts on the ends, it pulls that level at 2:40 he's fiddling with, which activates a cam-operated clutch that is forced open, disengaging the planter transmission from the drive wheels, allowing the planter to stop planting when making a turn at the end of the field or going down the road. When the planter lowers to the ground, the cam releases the clutch which allows the ratchet teeth to reengage, turning the planter transmission. The planter transmission is a set of sprockets driven by the drive shaft they replaced, which can be seen at 1:01 in the video as the cluster of different sized sprockets directly below the black vacuum blower. The sprockets are selected by moving them back and forth on short hex shafts using spacers and the charts in the book to select the proper combination to plant a given population with a given seed plate or disk, for various crops. The input shaft and sprocket of the transmission is driven by the driveshaft between the wheels (that they replaced) and then chain-drives the output shaft of the transmission with it's selected sprocket, which drives the planter shafts out either side of the transmission behind the toolbar, which itself drives the individual row units through another chain and sprocket on each row. The row unit sprocket drives the seed plate, turning it in a fixed proportion to the ground covered through the sprocket combination chosen for the planter transmission. The seed disk turns inside a housing at the bottom of each row hopper, with the seed on one side and a vacuum produced by the central vacuum fan on the toobar, which is plumbed to each row unit through a pipe along the bar and individual vacuum hose on each row to the seed meter in which the disk turns. The vacuum sucks seed into pockets on the seed disk through little holes in the disk, the disk turns and lifts the vacuumed seed stuck in the pocket up to the top of the housing, the rest of the seed falls back by gravity, and if two seeds are stuck in the pocket, one is knocked off by a small brush and falls back to the bottom of the housing. As the disk continues to turn past the brush, it moves past a vacuum seal on the back of the disk that cuts off the vacuum supply, and the seed falls out of the pocket (or is ejected by a small roller with pins that poke through the vacuum seed hole as it turns) and the seed falls down the seed tube into the trench created by the planter's opener disk blades, located between the two small depth wheel tires just below the seed hopper, which are adjustable to control how deep the disk blades cut the seed trench into the soil. Plant debris and old stalks are brushed aside by two spiked cleaning wheels operating right in front of them, adjusted for proper depth beforehand to move the debris out of the path of the opener disks and depth gauge wheels. After the seed drops into the trench, small "paddles" firm the seed down into the bottom of the "V" shaped trench, and another pair of small "V" closing wheels pinch and crumble the seed trench shut, rolling on either side of the small seed trench, covering the seed with firm moist soil so it can germinate and come up. If the planter is applying fertilizer (either liquid or dry) it is usually emplaced about 2 inches to the side of the planted row and 2 inches deeper (2x2 placement) by disk openers located in front of the planter units, usually on the front of the planter main toolbar. Planters are sometimes equipped with "pop-up fertilizer" applicators that dribble a small amount of low-salt liquid fertilizer or inoculants directly onto the seed in the seed trench, using small tubes installed on the seed firmer "paddle" running in the seed trench. Some planters also apply granular herbicides or especially insecticides as the seed is planted, by the smaller hoppers located behind the seed hopper on each row unit, which is also driven off the row unit drive chain driving the seed disk, using yet another small chain to turn an agitator or measuring wheel past a graduated size slot opening, which dispenses the granular insecticide down a hose that then dribbles it into the seed trench ahead of the closing wheels, or through a small triangular distributor that scatters the granules in a path a few inches wide ahead of the closing press wheels. Later! OL J R :)

[@РоманСмирнов-ц7х]

А можно к Вам приехать в гости ну и помогать на время проживания?

[@randomtvusa]

That laugh!!!

[@brentwhitesell4949]

Pod you plant soybeans on 30 in. Or 15 in

[@rtzapper]

how does a drill compare to a planter?

[@thecornishdairyboys5679]

+rtzapper drills normally use air pressure to push the seeds through the system to distribute the more evenly the planters are the old stlye and will use an auger like system controlled by the speed the wheels turn its not as acurate and harder to tune in as u have to stop and change things and then get back in and try it compared to a drill u can normally press a few buttons and there you go

[@lukestrawwalker]

Drills are a "measured spill" for the most part, as most drills use a rotating fluted feed wheel rotating past an adjustable "gate" to meter out the seeds "en masse", whereas planters use seed disks in combination with brushes, air pressure, or vacuum to singulate the seeds individually and meter them out into the seed tube... Even double-run seed meters on drills using internally fluted wheels that simply "scoop up" a quantity of seed and shovel it up and back and drop it down the seed tube, instead of metering out each individual seed as modern planters do. The closest seed drill meters that approximate planter singulation of seeds is the "SI Belt Meter" seed meters, or the Great Plains "drum meters" with individual seed pockets, but they don't really truly "singulate" since they rely on "average size" seed holes that CAN hold more than one seed if the seeds are substantially smaller than the seed pockets in the belt or drum... similar to old style "plate type" planters that relied on seed plates turning horizontally on the bottom of the planter hopper to measure seed out, that fell into pre-determined sized "slots" around the periphery of the seed plate. That said, drill meters are "accurate enough", especially for high-planting population crops like wheat and small grains, and usually soybeans. The other big drawback of grain drills is that their placement is usually far less accurate than a planter, as is their seed trench and closing mechanisms to cover the seed. Modern planters use twin seed trench disk blades to cut the seed trench in the soil, flanked on either side by gauge wheels that control the depth that the seed trench disks cut into the soil at the point where the seed is being dropped from the seed tube into the soil, resulting in extremely accurate seeding depth (in most cases). Drills generally rely on a single seed disk with a single gauge wheel (to accommodate narrower row spacing where the rows are closer together) and rely on a "seed boot" to hold the trench open and control the release of the seed, usually from a corrugated seed tube, rather than the smooth straight tubes used in planters, which can affect seed bounce and spacing. Some drills use two disk blades to create the seed trench, but have NO gauge wheel to control depth, or rely on depth bands or the closing wheel to control the trench opener blade depth, which can be different than where the press wheel is located BEHIND the opener disks, affecting seed placement depth. Drills also commonly use a single press wheel to close the seed trench, either by running directly over the seed in the seed trench, pushing the seed down into the soil as it firms it, and then relying on dirt "caving in" around the seed after the press wheel rolls forward to cover the trench. Some drills use a single angled press wheel to one side of the trench to "pinch" it shut by forcing the soil sideways slightly, opposite the direction that the drill opener disk moved the soil to create the trench, thus pushing the soil back around the seed... This is the old "slit-n-smash" type John Deere no-till seed drill, which works well in some conditions, but not in others. Planters meter the seed much more accurately in population, depth, and placement (spacing between seed) in the soil. The drawback is they're more expensive and more moving parts, and cannot accommodate very narrow row spacings. Where the seed population and placement is less critical, due to high populations of seed being planted, the requirement for very narrow 6-10 inch row spacings, etc. the drill has a decided advantage over the planter for such work. Where spacing and depth control and population seed singulation is more important, planters do a much better job. More farmers are switching to planters because as seed costs increase, they're finding that singulation of seed can save enough on seed costs to pay for the planter in the long run, and do a better job as well. Planters capable of planting down to 15 inch rows, as well as reduced disease pressure in wider rows in crops like soybeans, have promoted the preference for planters for soybeans over grain drills which were commonly used for "solid seeding" beans in 7.5 inch rows in the past. Later! OL J R :)

[@mala0197]

👍

[@Super_Tedd]

2.10 Peter griffin!!!

[@DesertDigger1]

"Juan Banado"