Pocket Doors in an Old home.

[@coreviewer4276]

OMG, I finally figured out my door with somewhat of this issue. My rolling hanger was still on the track but the front corner of the door had fallen off the roller. I was able to reattach without removing all the trim. The hanging roller looked EXACTLY like this one but was still attached to the track. I can help you solve this problem. I'l try to describe, but really just contact me for a walk through. So you have a door that the top corner isn't attached to the hanger and you got a hanger hanging from the track and moving freely. Two things need to happen. First set the roller into the door. First take off the vertical piece of trim on your leading door edge. On bottom of of loose hanger is 'female' |_ _| grommet (in section) and on the top of the door is a 'male' -||- piece of hardware. You need to slide the female hanger into the male protrusion. So kinda like |_-||-_| . Thus the hanger bottom holds up the door's hardware and the door. This is done by creating a lasso around the hanger and pushing it inward (toward the wall) past the door's hardware. Then stuff some cardboard under the door while lifting it up to basically touching the very top of the trim. Now with your lasso, you have to pull the hanger's female bit into the elevated door's male bit. If you did this right, you should be able to take the cardboard away and the door should hand. CONGRATS, you did most of the work. Now it's time for the anchor looking bit attached to a screw, Then tightened this should raise up the hanger mechanism and thus raise the door, when reversed it drops the door. Hopefully your anchor-screw is still adjusted, don't fuck with it if you can. If you must raise the door to keep it from scraping the floor or lower it to keep is from scraping the top trim around the hanger, adjust as needed by turning the anchor-screw appropriately. No all you need to do is sit that hanger anchor into its own door grommet. Make sure the anchor looks like this ][ and has the two pieces of metal running vertically. The top of the door hardware looks kinda like |- -|. The hanger's ancor needs to hammered into the door's receptical, so it kinda looks like |-][-|. This locks the anchor into place both ensuring the door is at the proper height and when pushed/pulled into/from the pocket it don't slip off the hanger. Holy god, that makes like no sense I'm sure! So if you need help email me (be a human and not a machine learner and figure it out) anonCOreview //=\\ =||= Gmail || )) (( )) =||= com I hope I can help :)

[@russellroesner2995]

So this is basically impossible to fix unless your runner is still affixed to the top of the door without tearing out tearing the entire frame out. These doors are solid wood weighing hundreds of pounds so to lift up the door and re-seat the wheel on top of the track is almost impossible unless two EXTREMELY strong men lift together and hook it up on the track again.

[@Drewster317]

Funny. This is the exact layout of my 1910 home in Waltham, MA. The pocket doors stick a lot.

[@sj8233]

I have almost the same set up in my house too and the same color of wall paint so I flipped for a few minutes lol I think it's cool that we all have a similar layout I love the fact i can have basically an open floor plan or i can block stuff off

[@Alice-oq4jm]

Hi did you solve it

[@Well_This_Guy_Says]

I have the exact same doors as you do, same trim and everything, my house is a 1900.

[@ClarksonFisherIII]

Hey all, I too have one pocket door of very similar style here at my 1929 (I think) house in NJ. When I moved in, additional trim was installed over the pocket but I could tell there was likely a door inside due to depth of wall. Removing extra trim revealed a door off its track inside wall. Not too hard to remove by getting the flat end of a pry bar under the bottom edge and prying up off the floor just the small amount that it would go. Then sliding strips of cardboard or something under it and repeating until there was enough cardboard or whatever nonabrasive material between bottom edge of door and hardwood floor. Then I just yanked it out. When all the way in closed position, shims were used to lift it a half inch or so, ensuring it was level, then securing the old hardware which is still quite sturdy but had just come loose. The issues with mine are this though: while door was stuck, numerous attempts by other people decades ago to pull it out mangled the hell out of the edge. The mortise is missing and the stile is only 3/4 the width it originally was. Also, when electricity was retrofit, someone drilled a hole straight through the door to snake a wire inside wall, lol. I don't have that broken off piece of stile nor any trim. Still, I use the door, and I intend to eventually restore it. But im not sure how it's supposed to work in a few ways. Like what keeps it from banging around inside the pocket? The trim I suppose but how? Has it got a felt surface or something? Please share any knowledge. Also, were there meant to be any hardware for bottom edge like wheels or anything? What I want most is a mortise for this thing. Any sources known for these old pieces? This is a single pocket door. Thanks all!

[@JohnFiorello]

Thanks for sharing!

[@jeffhalpin7269]

Thanks for posting but I wish you were a bit more restrained in your camera movements, couldn't finish!

[@sj8233]

Looking up videos like this on how to fix my pocket doors at home and flipped after noticing your walls and the color paint choices the yellow what looked like gray and the other what looked like purple idk if it was just the lighting in your video but we have those colors in our house we just bought and your set up kinda looks like mine at home

[@johnparli8410]

Ever solve it? How'd Tourette roller out btw? Trying to figure out a way to lubemy roller to no avail.

[@fixitmann6685]

That's some old hardware, alright! Any metal over 100 years old, I'm shocked it's holding together and not metal fatigued and basically powder. I did notice screws holding the trim on. You can probably remove the trim to get the door off without too much trouble (can reach the screws in the top of the door, for instance.) Also, if you want to just remove the track & replace the rollers and track with a modern double track 3 or 4 roller set, rather than bypass door single track 2 roller type, you'll probably not have any trouble for many more years. If you really want to use this old single roller and track style, good luck finding any replacement parts. For its time, that is a really well designed roller & track set, though. MUCH better than the bypass door tracks (typically installed where the entire track is visible, not half inside a wall) the builders installed instead of real pocket door hardware from the 1960s through the 2000's, which I replace all the time.

[@NordicWorrior-xx5vq]

Sorry to all that have this. But you must remove full trim on certain track styles from 1940 and earlier and open up walls in upper location to expose track mount and top bracket on single door. If you have double door you can slide door completely and remove time and molding turns door restore. Then reverse steps use Brad or trim nailer. Good luck.

[@geminijustgemini7784]

My screws pulled out of the wood on one side. I was going to take the wood trim off to see if I can access from above. We have plaster so I bet I have to cut it all out.

[@danbiss87]

@@geminijustgemini7784 Just think when fixed it will be another 100 years before it needs to be done again..lol