POR 15 Paint Tips/Tricks/Review

[@starmy5150]

Fwiw 12 years ago I used por15 on a 1972 truck frame. Drove in Utah snow, ice, salt and sand for 15 years. Took the bed off this summer and the frame looks brand new. I used the metal etch and the stuff is bullet proof. Good luck!

[@jonzeyjonzey4874]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial... been looking all over for a video like this!!!

[@anthonypage1510]

Sweet! Just finished removing all of the suspension on my 91 miata. Now I’m prepping for por15. I ended up getting new upper ball joints, so i’m not worried about getting blasting media in them from sandblasting the FUCA. I don’t want to sandblast the front or rear uprights because I won’t be replacing my wheel bearings. They’re WAY more rusty than my control arms, so I bet it will take a while to get them cleaned up with a wire wheel/wire brush. If you have any tips on how you prepped the uprights, let me know!

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I used several different size wire wheels from Amazon, 1/4 in and up, to clean the uprights. Then brake cleaner. Then flame to outgass. Then mask and paint.

[@toddtonis]

Thanks for making this video on POR 15. I've had all the same problems you described in your video. Great description of how to resolve them. How did you come up with the torch method. Seems like an unlikely process.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I saw it from another video where they used a torch to outgass a metal part before welding. I figured if that burned oil off then it should help for painting too!

[@jobsearch5871]

I went down the por route myself , these days I just use a alkyd paint, oil base paint. Rustoleum with a hardener added can be brushed or sprayed and is very durable for chassis parts.

[@micowikstrom7182]

Nice info, thanks!

[@patrickcowanjr1]

No problem!

[@joshuathomas4934]

This stuff really likes to have something for it to bite into and anchor itself. Sticks well to pitted steel. I also heat my parts of with a flame before using por15. It helps get oils out of all those microscopic pores in the steel. Then the por15 can flow into there and anchor itself. Sticks well then. Lots of people put this stuff on wrong.

[@Corona_Paul]

I just got the spray can version of this. Im also working on a miata 😂 hope its easier with the spray can.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Let me know how it goes!

[@mrvango3648]

Been using this stuff for probably 20 years it is great. I just clean the surface rust chunks off, wipe it down with lacquer thinner and apply, it is super strong and lasts for years. One thing that I always do is to wear gloves. If this gets on your skin it is going to take about a week before it comes off.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Very true about wearing gloves! That was a mistake I only made once. Even Acetone struggled to remove it.

[@darkartauto1511]

Harbor freight sells a touch up spray gun I use to spray por 15 for "best look" I dont reduce it just put it in the gun and spray it. You can still get runs but no brush strokes. Looks like powder coat till the sun fades it lol.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Thanks, I'm going to try that next time.

[@Cachapeluo]

Did you use the POR 15 Metal Prep?

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I did not. I sand blasted some parts, others just a wire wheel. Then used Acetone and white rags until rags came back completely clean. Then applied the POR 15. So far this has shown to be extremely tough with excellent durability and adhesion.

[@craigiefconcert6493]

Thanks for the video! These tips will surely be useful. I’m prepping my frame for por15. There’s a lot of areas that are pock marked. I’m wondering how hard it will be to get the paint in there. You didn’t try spraying?

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Let me preface this by saying I'm not a painter. Well, I think I'm an excellent person to prep surfaces and put down primer, but not for topcoats that need to be pretty. My thinking with a brush, is I can brush paint into tight spots that I could never spray paint into. Like little spots where a paint gun just couldn't phyically fit, or, if you did spray a paint gun enough to fill a tight spot, it would have runs in the area. With a brush, I can work a thin coat of paint into a spot, then brush the area even. My thought is brush until ready for finish paint, then spray.

[@seanhoude]

Talk about NOT reading directions! You must use the degreaser (to clean the surface), then rinse with water, use the metal prep twice (so it will bond to the surface), rinse with water again, and then two thin coats of the rust preventer. This product cures with moisture! Done correctly, plus the top coat product (to protect it from UV) and it's damn near indestructible.

[@carnut1921]

Waaaay to much trouble and $

[@harleymccravey4285]

Can you rough measure the front tubing? the plate to end of the tubing at the weld of the crash bar. Then put a line on the weld connecting the tubing to the crash bar and measure from the line to the farthest part of the crash bar.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I don't quite understand what you're asking for, but yes I can measure it. I built the entire thing in cad, so I have every dimension.

[@harleymccravey4285]

@@patrickcowanjr1The length from where the square tubing is welded to the frame to the end of your core support. I noticed when you test fit the body panels how close it is

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Just uploaded a video with information regarding dimensions of the assembly.

[@Ruben-rs8im]

Hang with strong wire or put on vice

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I don't know why I didn't think of that, but great idea. I actually have another set to do, I'll hanf them next time.

[@dancox3251]

I've been using POR-15 for many years and I don't brush on their top coat product as it doesn't flow very well. The top coat is also not very durable and takes a long time to fully cure. It's really meant to be used as the name suggests - as a (UV stable) top coat. I use the _aerosol_ top coat and spray over regular brushed-on POR-15.

[@leerevell5998]

I thinking of this but i hope it doesn't come off 😮 there's lots of people on here saying its failed hope there wrong

[@patrickcowanjr1]

100% for sure.

[@norm4907]

Couple of comments to help you out. Based on the can this was not POR15 per seay but their TOP COAT. This stuff is shit, there’s no other way to describe it. I believe acetone will cause problems as it will embed in the metal and off gas. I sandblast all my parts, spray with their metal prep and keep wet for 20 minutes. Rinse with very hot water and allow to dry or blow gun. I always hang my parts, put on a coat of Original POR15 (red can), I lay it down thick and heavy like you wouldn’t believe. Go back every 15 minutes or so and brush off drips (reason for hanging). It won’t look nice after brushing but POR15 bonds to itself and will flatten out. Once no more drips, do not touch for 24hrs. I get a glass like finish every time. Couple of tips, pour into a clean container what you think you need, do not re-introduce the brush to the original batch and don’t put leftovers back in. When I open a can, I immediately pour it into a mason jar, the simple reason is I can wipe the rim of that jar very clean and it won’t stick. I can keep POR15 this way for over 6 months. Best of luck.

[@jonhluk]

Gloves ?

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I typically use nitrile gloves.

[@MH-re3kb]

A good quality 2k epoxy primer and a topcoat is so much better. POR changed the recipe, youtube is full of people who show failed por15. Look up repair geeks videos on por.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I've read it also doesn't hold up to sunlight very well at all without topcoat. I know now.

[@davidcarpenter4346]

Runs are difficult to prevent. Additionally this paint splatters more than any other paint I have used.

[@geraldturkeyhunter]

Use high end trim brush

[@gariya8113]

No metal ready? You must like doing things over and over again. Use the degreaser, then metal ready then let it dry by it self.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I do things over all the time! Common theme on this channel.

[@glenhenning9261]

I am NOT posting this comment to be a hater, just want to alert viewers to watch videos of peoples experience with por15. I will never use it again, no matter how it's prepped it WILL start flaking off, sometimes in sheets leaving bare metal that will rust fast if you don't catch it in time. There are products much cheaper that are sooo much better, look around. I won't mention names because people will think I'm getting paid to endorse them. Now at least you can't say you weren't warned...

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Good point. I didn't find out about the better paints available until after I bought the por 15. But I read similar stories. I am curious if you know of a better alternative?

[@nimster64]

Post the names of the other products help us out to avoid going through the trouble 😎 😊

[@MH-re3kb]

Mastercoat is so much better. Sadly I cant get it in Europe. The best is sandblast, 2k Zinc Epoxy primer and a Topcoat.

[@Dixler683]

@glenhenning9261….if the por-15 is flaking off the #1 problem is YOU. The surface must be prepped exactly per instructions for proper adhesion. The temperature and humidity are very important as well. Applied correctly this paint will not flake ,chip or peel. This is not an advertisement for por-15. Other companies have copied the formula , improved it and I no longer use POR-15, but projects painted with it has held up for decades.

[@nimster64]

Post the names Who cares what people will think.

[@SteveNicholson-tk2se]

That is por 15 top coat its not the por 15 rust encapsulator two differnt products the solids in bottom ar pigments or pigment powder and other solids to give the paint more durabilty

[@TheDalyman]

The first couple minutes of this video tells you all you need to know about por15. It's like no paint you have ever used. It takes time and money to learn the application of por15. It's not worth your time or effort. The reason the paint is separated is because no one buys it and it sits on the shelf for years. A fresh can will have some mud on the bottom that stirs easily , an old waste of timeand money can will have a solid rock on the bottom that does not stir well or completely out. It's a nightmare. You can pick up an unopened can and feel it there is a solid rock at the bottom of the can. Just sand blast your stuff , wire wheel your stuff then use a phosphate coating. Top coat with your favorite epoxy or paint line.

[@geraldturkeyhunter]

Buy correct brushes and mix it correct and do it slowly before you paint anything do a test piece first make sure it's clean clean clean never use cheap brushes it's still be cheaper and way harder than powder coat or spraying

[@bernardmauge8613]

you needed a paint shacker

[@gariya8113]

You not supposed to shake it, it creates bubbles. It must be stirred.

[@Supanova70]

You could not give this stuff free to me.sorry. Test yourself with some brake fluid. Peels off like dead skin.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

I have a part I painted, I'll try that. How long does it hold up under brake fluid? I thought all paints failed under brake fluid if it stays on them.

[@Supanova70]

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[@Supanova70]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/inKliIN-qtmeY6M@@patrickcowanjr1

[@joshuathomas4934]

@@patrickcowanjr1 Brake fluid destroys any paint. Brake fluid is nasty stuff.

[@geraldturkeyhunter]

Don't do it try fix it wet do it correct first and be like powder coating on steroids

[@Dixler683]

This is kinda a weird video. The man creates problems and states the obvious. He is dispensing advise and much is incorrect. The problems encountered are all addressed in the instruction sheet and he failed to read them. One can had thick goop at the bottom so he buys 3 more and repeats the mistake before consulting directions. It amazes me how some people try to sound intelligent but really are Jethro Bodeens.

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@paulthompson1654]

Paint stores have paint shaker machines ,, then stir thoroughly .. Minimal effort required . When spraying any colour 1st coat will often be a little transparent . Even the 2nd coat for orange /yellow will do this . 2nd black coat will often give over 90% coverage min. Tip ,,,,2 medium coats will cover better and have better appearance after 2 coats than 1 or 2 thick coats . Thicker coats will not spread flatten/ float out as good as med coat . Heavy coats can have a high risk of runs or sags . Media Blasting with crushed glass, or garnet is ok for steel surface prep.Its all about the surface profile . Walnut/ Soda/ Glass beads will often leave NOT ENOUGH surface profile . A fine garnet is fine for alloy and metal prep .

[@patrickcowanjr1]

Thanks, that's a lot of good info!