Porsche 924 Fuel Pump Removal - Part 15

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In this episode, I will walk through the steps of removing the fuel pump and pipe fittings on my Porsche 924 2.0L.
It's one of those jobs that can be messy and painful as all the components are situated on the outside of the rear quarter panel which means everything gets rusty together.....oh joy!
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[@GBOAF216]

Well if you ever get the dreaded hot start problem ( vapour lock within the fuel injector lines across the hot engine) you can always do the quick and dirty 'mod' and put a switch across the cold start valve! As you pull the non responsive engine, just press the fitted button to squirt fuel out the '5th' injector, and it will start the car I had that on my 77, and my 82 model

[@Witty924]

Sounds like a plan. Will drop you a line if that happens 👍

[@christophergarrett4433]

You got me worried now. Didn't even see all this stuff when I was under it this morning. I won't be delving into any of that.

[@laurencewaters]

For seized on nuts or fittings I’ve had success with a cotton wool ball, pull off a small piece role it into a sausage wrap it around the nut or fitting and soak it with penetrating fluid and leave for a while, it acts as a wick and keeps wet so soaks into the stubborn fitting…. re soak if necessary…

[@Witty924]

Thanks for the comment and support Laurence, great tip, thanks for sharing 👍

[@marty9248]

I am in the middle of this job. I just cutted the fuel pump and accumulator rubbers and used grip pliers as you did. It sure was a pain. I had to use a saw to remove the inlet hose of the accumulator. It was fused to the accumulator. Now I need to remove the outlet hose of the accumulator connected to the hard line, which is located above the gearbox. Still thinking on that last one.

[@Witty924]

@@marty9248 hey Marty, thanks for the comment and support. I feel your pain, it's a tough job especially if the hoses haven't been touched in decades. They are open to all the elements so they get pretty rough in there. With the accumulator, I used lots of penetrating fluid and good fitting spanners to crack the nuts, once cracked I kept turning back and forth until the nut spun on the hose fitting as it should. Getting to the end connected to the hardline is a pain if you are on jack stands. Let me know how you get on 🤞 👍

[@antipornunicorn9453]

I seen this in your other video's and I was like start spraying wd40 it will help later on 😂

[@wetoolow8750]

The part about 28:35 is a regulator. In this case a fuel pressure regulator.

[@lizard944]

Hilarious! That's exactly how I got those rubber bushing plates off of my fuel filter bracket on an 86 944. Great minds think alike....or fools seldom differ. LOL

[@Witty924]

Thanks for the comment and support lizard 👍 let's go for great minds haha 😄

[@uh3what]

This is a lifesaver of a series, can you make a video going over tightening and re adjusting the clutch cable? Unless yours is hydraulic the nvm

[@Witty924]

Hi What, thanks doe the comment ans support and good to hear it helps out. Always happy to try and add more vids that help our fellow 924 owners out 👍🤞

[@stananchetaii1689]

Cheers my friend - interested to find out where your sourced your parts. Looks like I'm in the same boat!

[@Witty924]

Hey Stan. I will be doing a video putting everything back together this week. I will put all the parts list in the description with links to help 👍

[@GBOAF216]

Witty 924 Hi matey, on my 85 lux, they had done away with the accumulator, and put a one way valve within the sleeve thread that went into the pump. With a spring and ball bearing arrangement. It was a way to stop the hot starting problems that had plagued the design through the years..... looks like that ‘hat type’ fitting is an earlier option to try and maintain fuel pressure after shut down. I had to replace the ball valve fitting once on my car, when it failed, and the car was a pig to start when hot. Good luck! I’ve had 924’s since the late 70’s, they’re great cars.....got a 968 at the mo now.

[@Witty924]

@@GBOAF216 hey there, thanks for the message and great detail. I know the hot start is one of those fun issues. Fortunately I havnet had that on mine although the cold starter seems to be a potential weak spot. That said I will know for definitely once I refit all the new parts for the fuel system and give it a test. I'm hoping the pump was on its last legs and simply didnt have the psi output it should have which was the issue. 🤞

[@henkdevill]

I am doing this exact same job right now. I finished the fuel pump replacement, but I broke my spine trying to get the rusted bolts off of the accumulator, was it just penetrating fluid and sheer strength that did the job for you?

[@Witty924]

Hi Dominic thanks for watching and the comment. So the challenge is the nut on the pipe that connects to the accumulator should spin freely but most are locked by rust. So lots of penetrating fluid. Get 2 good spanners on 15mm to place on the accumulator captive nut and a 17mm on the nut connect to.the fuel pipe and pull the spanners apart and then together. This movement helped crack the nut of the pipe from its rusty position then slowly it screwed off. Hope it all comes apart for you 👍🤞

[@flapbean]

Came across your video and struggling to find an answer anywhere online. We have a no start scenario. Pump doesn't prime even when connected to a 12v battery (presume just negative and positive!) so thinking both the in tank and separate pumps are fubar. Lots of rumours bouncing aorund online you can remove the in tank pump and run just the standalone pump and replace the in tank with the strainer from the 944. Any knowledge or experience? Thanks for taking the time to upload!!

[@Witty924]

Hi Flap, thanks for the comment and support. So you are right, you can delete the tank fuel pump and have a single high flow external pump. As long as you are getting the recommended psi in the system you will be good to go. The injectors need 40psi plus to.ipen and work efficiently. Pumps are relatively cheap so should be a good fix. Let me know how get on. 🤞👍

[@flapbean]

@@Witty924Cheers. I don’t suppose you happen to know if that’ll be the same PSI for a 1979/ 1980 2.0 turbo ? 🙏🏻

[@Witty924]

@@flapbean OK so all models with lambda injection including turbo need a system pressure from 5.4 to 6.0 bar. Models from 76-79 on the k-jetronic injection need a pressure from 4.5 to 5.2 bar. Hope that helps 🤞

[@peterhill-cottingham1663]

I'm about to tackle a similar job on my 924turbo and will replace the external pump with a genuine Bosch item and also replace the pump-to-pump hose like you have done. I will also remove the in-tank pump to check it's condition and see what deposits are in the tank. Did you consider checking your in-tank pump especially as the rest of your fuel system is rather crusty?

[@Witty924]

Hi Peter, thanks fornthe comment and support. So I knew the in tank fuel pump was good and as I tracked down the source of my fuel system challenge it led me to the WUR which was at fault. That being said, the out fuel pump definitely needed renewing and the rubber pipes in that area. The rest of the fuel lines are where in good condition so I have been fortunate there. I know many need the fuel lines replacing if they have had a hard life. Hope all goes well with the job and let me know how it goes 👍

[@pauldavies8638]

That fuel pipe is a DIY bodge job

[@Witty924]

So glad I decided to do this job. Has ended up getting a little bigger as I removed the accumulator too but worth it. Now have refurbished everything ready for the refit. Video coming soon 👍

[@pauldavies8638]

@@Witty924 same with me the dirt in the bottom of my tank when I took the in tank pump out was unbelievable, changed pump I thought the positioning of the pump was silly, I am toying with the idea of moving my secondary pump and fuel filter and mounting them on a frame in the right boot well.

[@Witty924]

@@pauldavies8638 Hey Paul, sounds an interesting idea. The pump is certainly exposed where its located. I will be under sealing around the key component pieces and joins once I have refitted just for more protection from the elements once it's back on the road. Will you be doing a video of your changes, be good to see 👍

[@antipornunicorn9453]

Oke replaced the fuel pump they already replaced it in the past with a wv Audi fuel pump so I needed to improvise with the hose because the original hose wasn't there So I tapped the old scew in the new pump and that saved me some time and money Will need to check if it will leak or not but now it seems to work fine So when I tried to start the car it took some time for it to react but it has some life in it only for a few seconds and it will die again so it's doing more than before but it still won't start and if I push the gass it will bang and it shuts of After a few tries it starts up again but it won't idle it just slowly turns off again Any idea what I should look at next? The fuel inside is 12 years old I think so I will put in some new fuel Again I'm not experienced like you are I'm just someone who bought a project to learn it lol

[@Witty924]

Hi Danny, sounds like you are on a good mission with your 924. So have a look at the WUR the warm up regulator. This will no doubt have some dirt if it's old fuel. The WUR must be clean. Check this video for help. 👍🤞 kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZojGq4mKoql6ibc

[@antipornunicorn9453]

@@Witty924 thank you will do that I'll let you know if anything comes out 🤘

[@Witty924]

@@antipornunicorn9453 good luck. We can solve it dont worry. Let me know how you get on 👍

[@antipornunicorn9453]

kzbin.infohdl5ILrLOkw?feature=share Well witty this is the result My 924 doesn't look as good as yours but it finally starts I will keep you updated Next up is the brakes 🤣 no fluid in it so I need to check for leaks If the brakes work I can take it for a test drive 🤘💪

[@antipornunicorn9453]

Well I was busy with the brakes hoping all the nippels would come lose but my luck the left front one is stuck and it broke off so I think I need to replace the hole brake unit or is there a way to get the broken nippel out ?