Portable RV Solar. What they are not telling you.

[@geoffmolyneux9173]

For parasitic draw, just plug chargers into a switched power bar. Turn off the power bar switch when you do not want to use your chargers. We do that with our TV entertainment stuff in our home, as well as all our RV stuff. Also install a master switch on your rv battery. So it has no parasitic draw.

[@johndiezel5781]

Two items that draw a considerable parasitic power when off are the entertainment system (DVD, VCR, and cable box), and by far my microwave. My microwave when off draws 6 to 7 amps from the battery bank, just sitting there plugged in. Like someone else mentioned, I use a power strip on both, and turn them off when not needed.

[@paulgreen2303]

The question in the email said, he had a "Winnebago Flex". Well, Winnebago doesn't have a Flex model. What he has is a very new, very special Winnebago FLX - likely a Micro Minnie FLX though they make other FLX models. The FLX has 2-190w panels wired in SERIES and they have a 320 amp hour Lithionics battery. Unfortunately, Winnebago hasn't been consistent in how they wire the outside port on the side of the RV. The user should put a multimeter on the Zamp style SAE port for external panels. If they see 38 to 44 volts then the outside port is wired to their controller. If they see 13.5v then it's wired to the batteries. Talking to a Lithonics Electrical Engineer they meant for the outside port to be wired to the Charge Controller - but many times it's wired to the battery. Only a voltage test at the port (preferably during sunlight) will tell the emailer what they have.

[@RVingwithBandit]

Great video and explanation. I had someone give me a great tip for limiting the draw while using your inverter. Put everything on surge protectors and keep the surge protector in the off position. Only turn the surge protectors on for the things you are using. It won't eliminate all the draw but should certainly limit some of it.

[@markpfeifer1402]

In addition to my factory 150W of rooftop solar, I have a 100W individual panel. Like you said, I started fresh. I bought a cheap 10 amp solar controller and ran it between the battery and the panel. Then, I ran a cable out my storage door with an Anderson connector.

[@markharvey8706]

The Chargers will draw power without a device attached. They can be plugged into a power strip then turn off the strip when not in use.

[@lancewulfers2502]

If you need to trace wires, get a hare and hound (tone and probe) kit. You can trace the wires in the walls on an RV and then find out where they terminate.

[@vincebotkin1960]

Side ports usually are hooked directly to the battery. Controller always required. Other uses for those ports. Plug in for masonator. Plug in for lights or any other 12 V item. But always install an inline fuse for the device you are using.

[@StuPedasso]

Todd, thank you for all the different topics you cover to help us idiots out, very much appreciated! 😁 Your videos and knowledge are priceless...no really, we pay nothing for it. I have a pretty big battery bank relative to my solar panels - 600AH Lithium batteries to 800W of solar panels. My demand exceeds the panels output a little bit everyday so I run a gas generator or plug-in to top off when needed (roughly every 4 - 6 days). My question is: Does NOT fully recharging a Lithium battery regularly have consequences? (i.e. shorten life, reduce total output?) Thanks BeardMan!

[@jackstitt1395]

Thank you for all of the explanations about the different panels and charge controllers. My question that I had is no matter the solar array I have on top and the batteries I have feeding from them. If I hook up an external suitcase style charger to assist with charging as long as it has a built in charge controller I should have no issues correct?

[@andyenloe9250]

Hey Todd I have a 5th wheel and I've sanitized the fresh water take and water lines with bleach solution and let it set for 24 hours. Also cleaned the water heater with vinegar over night and replaced the anode rod. I turn the water on and still have an odor when I run the water...any suggestions?

[@livingwithrob]

The factory wires the roof panels of the FLX in series. They wire the solar on the side port in parallel on these rigs. Ask me how I know. 😢

[@zzbear317]

I have a Rockwood with a similar setup. I got a 200w portable panel to assist my one 190w roof panel. The side port is not connected to the controller. I got an inline controller, but I also had to reverse the polarity. For whatever reason, GoPower tries to make their setup proprietary. I just needed an adapter, and all is well. I like the ability to point the panels to the sun and it more than doubles the speed of charge to full SOC.

[@paulgreen2303]

It's not GoPower that's making it require a polarity adapter. It's from the Zamp branded SAE port on the side of the RV. See, an SAE plug doesn't have a standard for which slide is positive and which side is negative. Though it's more common to see the Male side positive and the female side negative. Zamp reversed that "for safety." They felt the positive should be on the female side of the plug to prevent shorting. So, all of their plugs (and panels, etc) are built that way. Portable panel manufacturers that use a SAE terminated cable follow the common Male=positive SAE wiring. But to plug into Zamp external ports you need to change the connections of the cord with an adapter.

[@karlsmetal]

If there's a parasitic draw of about an amp from my DC board (or anything else), as you say, why doesn't my shunt battery monitor register that? It registers the 0.05 amp draw from its own backlight when it is on. I did not "zero" the monitor either when I set it up and I'm not aware that the monitor I currently have has that function. The monitor positive is tapped at the battery post and nothing is before it or the shunt on the negative side. My monitor reads 0.00 amps when nothing is on.

[@rcdad2]

Not sure if the side port on Winnebago is connected to controller or not but the old go power controllers were all PWM and need the panels it parallel. The new mppt can have the panels in series. I would put a volt meter on the port and check nominal voltage to see if it is connected to the panel side of the controller or connected to the battery if connected to the battery then add a cheap controller to your portable and not issue as it will work independently from the roof solar

[@shadowsrwolf]

external plug on E-PRo is to the power center DC. Long long long run of #10 wire to then turn around and run out to the battery.

[@SweetBabyFreezus]

Hey Todd, love the beard, and the videos. My wife and I are full timers. We are currently in an area that gets frequent high wind gusts. I’m talking 50 to 60 mph wind gusts a few times a week. When the wind is blowing in the right direction, and the AC is not running, the wind is blowing through the plenum, and it causes my AC fan blades to spin in the opposite direction. And it spins so fast, that when the AC kicks on, the fan will continue to spin in the WRONG direction. The fan motor is not strong enough to change the direction when the wind is blowing that fast. Which means the AC is not pulling air through the evaporator, and it freezes. This happens mostly when we are at work, and we have 2 dogs at home. We came home one day and it was 83 degrees in the rig. Is there anything you can think of to prevent this from happening? Besides moving to a different location lol. Something that will give us some peace of mind while we are at work.

[@davidnestico932]

Could you use a volt meter on the side panel, if the voltage is the same as the battery voltage, then you could safely assume you need a charge controller?

[@mattwaters6987]

Makes sense.

[@robertl9065]

I have a setup with 400 watts on the roof wired in parallel. The side port on my rv is wired to the same charge controller as the roof. I have a 200watt ground panel from the same manufacturer as the roof ones. My ground panel adds to the solar power coming on just by looking at the increased charging amperage on the controller when the ground panel is hooked up. Works great!

[@karlsmetal]

If the DC board has a parasitic draw of up to an amp, as you say, why wouldn't my battery monitor register that? My shunt based monitor registers the draw of its own backlight, when on, at 0.05 amps. It reads 0.00 when off. Its positive is tapped at the battery terminal and there is nothing tapped between the shunt and battery on the negative side. I did not "zero" the monitor when I set it up and haven't seen it has that function.

[@romeostpierre282]

Always looking forward to your wisdom. Odd thing you mentioned that Go Power Solar Controller doesn't like panels being run in series. When I bought my 320G I had the dealership install 4 -190 w panels in a Kit that Go Power offered which included the Solar Controller and IC 3000 watt Inverter. I'm on my 3rd Inverter and 2nd Solar Controller. Go Power installation instructions showed panels run in Series? This might explain troubles with the Controller charging at the full amps without occasionally restarting it. I will be going to a Victron Solar Controller when I get tired of restarting it

[@DustyGeek]

That statement made me raise by eyebrow as well, but he did caveat it by saying he wasn't super familiar with the GoPower lineup. I suspect Todd was referring to (GoPower's) PWM (pulse width modulation) controllers which are included on many rigs because they're cheap (and much less efficient, like 75%). They CAN'T be hooked up in series due to how they function, which is effectively turning the panel->battery connection on/off rapidly and adjusting the exact "on" pulse timing (pulse width) so the average voltage is something that will charge the battery without destroying it. It works OK with lower voltage panels like 18-24V, but becomes problematic at higher voltages. The GoPower 30A MPPT my rig came with says specifically: "MPPT solar controllers optimize an RV’s solar charging in all sun and tilt conditions, and are ideal for series wiring configurations." in the description on the GoPower site. MPPT controllers usually have a max VOC (Volts Open Circuit) they can accept (100V in the GoPower 30A MPPT case), so as long as your panels' in series combined VOC doesn't exceed that, you should be golden. Efficiency is much better (like 95% or better), but you're usually paying more for the solar controller.

[@jmbisaccia]

Hey Todd, greetings from Vermont! Thanks for all your super helpful information. I learn something new every time I watch a video. Here’s my question… I have installed a 280 amp hour 12 V lithium battery in my camper but the converter/charger was for standard liquid acid battery. I understand that it will not charge a lithium battery to 100% so I top it off with a portable charger made for lithium batteries. I have been unplugging the shore power before hooking up the portable charger in fear that I would be giving the battery too much voltage. Is that a necessary step? Or can I leave the camper plugged in and also use the portable charger? Thanks in advance! John

[@paulgreen2303]

Not Todd, but both your Converter and your Aux Charger are both voltage sensing devices. They should be smart enough to not apply too much voltage. It is possible that your Aux charger has higher amperage capability and turning off the Converter is likely good because the LFP capable charger will apply a better LFP charging profile. If you don't have any solar panels, you might find that 200w on the roof would be enough to make up for the non-LFP Converter's inability to fully charge your batteries.

[@jmbisaccia]

Thank you Paul!

[@rideordietheyretring2tranx382]

Thanks

[@SolarPowerMyRV]

What’s up Todd!

[@lancewulfers2502]

To cut down on parasitic draw you can put thise devices on a switchable power strip and then just turn the strip off.

[@yatesdoan6197]

Todd When will the 2025 classes come out?

[@breaking_bear]

Hahahahahahah! Amazing video, with exceptionally hilarious bloopers!(my fav). One of the techs at the RV store I bought my RV from said I could pay them $2500 to install a solar sytem that will run my air conditioner. Does free money exist? I think not, so I figured I'd checkout the validity of his claim with you, Todd. What do ya got for me brother?

[@paulgreen2303]

Not Todd, but to run your A/C without shore/generator power you need 3 things and each cost more than $2,500 each installed. You'd need first a 3000w or larger inverter. You'd need ~1,200w or more of solar and you'd need 800 amp hours or more of Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. And even then you'd only be able to run your A/C for a few hours. So... no surprise, your dealer's tech doesn't have a clue or he's lying. One of the two.

[@robertl9065]

I have 400 ah of lithium with a 3000watt inverter and 400 watts of solar. I can run 1 ac for several hours with just that. To run continuously you’d need more panels and battery.

[@breaking_bear]

@@robertl9065 awesome! And how much did your system cost if you don't mind me asking?

[@TwistedOff]

👍

[@dannylayton1106]

I'm a deplorable and proud of it! Go TRUMP 2024

[@TheLasVegasRefugee]

I think 80% of RV people are. 🇺🇸

[@robno5223]

How is that working for y'all now that Donny is losing both his mind and the election. Donny likes trailer trash because he can sell them overpriced trinkets while taking a crap in his gold toilet.😮