PPprint - a solution for 3D printing with PolyPropylene? Let's find out..

[@avejst]

I have used PP on normal PEI with a brim with no problem, but the extruder was fighting with the filament, and more than ones, I have to dismantled the extruder. Thanks for sharing this new bed-solution :-)

[@cowboy124aa3]

PP is similar to printing Flexible, you should use a Direct drive extruder when printing, and in most cases you should use a heated chamber to prevent warping. It is harder filament to print then other plastics, I have heard that some can print on PEI and some that can not, and some suggest a PP print surface or PP glue stick for printing PP. It might be the brand of filament that you are printing that will determine the out come of the print. I have yet to print it myself but I may in the future for some food containers and the like.

[@rudimentaryganglia]

I ordered a 1.5 mm thick sheet of PP directly from a plastics company here in the uk to try and use as a build plate to see if it makes printing PP easier without bothering with tape or proprietary bed adhesives

[@David-ty6my]

Did it work?

[@brisance]

@@David-ty6my I tried this myself. The PP became part of the sheet.

[@FrancoisMathieu]

I just use packaging tape for adhesion. It sticks very well and it’s easy to clean.

[@karlosss1868]

I second that. Works well

[@theglowcloud2215]

What bed temp do you use?

[@Fullcorex]

4th to this, mighty packing tape does the job extremely well on moded E3V2.

[@FrancoisMathieu]

@@theglowcloud2215 60C

[@bcc1955]

Exactly, as this is polypropylene tape. The challenge is sometimes to make it not stick too strongly, which is a much easier problem to fix.

[@ripoffrecords]

Thanks for your little demo. PP is going to be massive in 3D printing once they iron out obvious but fairly simple issues to overcome. Because there is no shortage of PP materials already and it's flexible, durable, thermal, water resistant, recyclable and has far more applications in useful industries like food, medical, automotive and so on. Too many god damn unicorn lover channels and virtually no channels exploring useful development & applications for 3D PP. Do more PP prints please!

[@riba2233]

unicorn lover?

[@inmyimage1081]

Good observations. I have a roll of 150mm wide Kapton tape I bought when I got my printer. I haven’t used it because each roll of my Overture filaments came with a print sheet that works extremely well, but it seems like the Kapton tape could be a good protective layer between the print bed and the adhesive for the PP print sheet. Disappointing that they didn’t send you enough material to do your normal test procedures given that they must be familiar with them since they contacted you.

[@capcloud]

Which overture comes with print sheets?

[@inmyimage1081]

Every kind I’ve purchased so far: PLA, PLA Plus, ASA and PETG

[@cowboy124aa3]

There are places that sell PP print surface sheets for most standard size print beds on amazon between $10 to $20. unlucky for me they dont have a 355mm x355 for my bed surface. These sheets are a thin add on that can most likely be placed on the back side of a flex plate with PEI on one side and PP print surface on the back side. I may end up ordering a custom size for my printer!

[@DevilZcall]

The soft sticky sheet seems an interesting idea, but using it with small object footprints looks like it's asking for trouble

[@xnc0913]

I use PP Filament from Recreus, they send liquid primer for the heating bed with the filament.

[@AndrewAHayes]

It would have been nice to have been sent at least a quarter Kg of filament and a full size build sheet so the full library of test parts could be printed and tested.

[@MyTechFun]

Are you using it with glass? How hard is to remove the liquid after printing?

[@etzmannschnappuleck1181]

Das war wohl ein Schuss in den Ofen und schlechte Publicity, Leute! Ihr wisst doch, dass Igor immer sehr umfänglich testet und schickt ihm so eine jämmerliche Portion Fillament!👎🏻

[@xnc0913]

@@etzmannschnappuleck1181 no entiendo nada de lo que dices. Pero noto a que dices que hago publicidad o algo así, pues no para nada, recreus no me paga nada.

[@xnc0913]

@@MyTechFun o remove the primer I use a scraper of those used for cleaning windows. Very easy to celan the glass.

[@frankbauerful]

I've used FormFutura PP on my CR-10 and didn't find it challenging to print. The only thing I did was take ordinary PP packing tape and taped it onto my glass bed where the print would be. Removing the packing tape later is easy. When the bed is heated it will peel off easily and any residue can be cleaned up with alcohol. It's less messy than cleaning up glue stick. I think it's an urban legend that PP is hard to print.

[@brandoneich2412]

Maybe use the sticker on a prong steel sheet (on that only has PEI on one side, then use the PP Sheet on the other side. :) That way you can put it in the center. :)

[@MarkoFQ]

Those part cooling ducts should be pointing at filament coming from nozzle ? Based on the camera angle I see it's cooling the nozzle instead.

[@BogdanKecman]

PP prints best on double sided carpet tape (e.g. I most usually use white TESA 0.15mm two sided sticky tape - yellow cover, white tape). You remove carpet tape after print and put on the new one, since tape is super cheap it's ideal surface for printing PP and HDPE (you can print other materials on it too but no need if you have printbite or pei or ... for other materials) ... but problem with PP and HDPE is that they warp much more than ABS or even Nylon so you really need to have enclosure (I print it in heated enclosure at 80C) and they love to be printed slowly, I print between 12 and 20mm/sec, never faster if I want to high quality parts... I personally use 3mm filament (easy to get locally) and 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle but 0.4mm nozzle works ok (much more turbulence), below 0.4mm I would not suggest... especially when you go slow, 12mm/sec takes ages to print so you want big thick layers so your print finishes during your life time :D

[@BogdanKecman]

@@parsu1313 I build my own printers, I doubt that names I give them would make any sense to you :D, especially for enclosed printers I use for PP and HDPE that are not based on anything commonly seen out there (movement is similar to ultimaker but everything is custom)

[@dmax9324]

So the main issue with PP is if you are printing larger surface area parts that are somewhat thick. Corners tend to pull up, and if the adhesion is poor, the part will warp. I've had mild success on various print surfaces. However, it looks like the instructions of the test kit were not followed: clipping it to the bed would not work very well as shown in the video. PPPrint is working on doing a permanently bonded print surface to steel sheets which would eliminate this issue. I think the first layer was not dialed in here so it's not a fair showing of whether this solution works. Packing tape works, but it is appealing to have a fuss free surface to print on without messing with tape etc. Thanks for showing the kit and materials though.

[@dmax9324]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6LIoZhugMt_oM0 Shows a much better example of how it is meant to work. I'm looking forward to getting my own test kit!

[@BeefIngot]

I've been meaning to use PP as an alternative to tpu for designs needing flexible components on otherwise hard prints as my X1Cs AMS doesn't do flexibles. I'd be curious to see you do a video on this idea/how well it works and am also curious if you've heard of this printer and what you think of it.

[@MyTechFun]

Flexible? Maybe I should try timing belt. TPU flexible, but too ellastic. Nylon not flexible enough. Maybe PP(?)

[@pechinma]

any progress with PP on the X1C?

[@neilfpv]

Hi sir. Is PP stronger than TPU?

[@MyTechFun]

Since, I don't have detailed PP test so far, I don't know for sure. But they are different materials. TPU is flexible. But one thing for sure: PP is harder for 3D printing (warping and bed adhesion problems)

[@TMS5100]

I thought the go-to for FDM PP was PP packing tape?

[@MyTechFun]

Yes, but this should be more elegant solution, no need to stick/replace the tape.