Pressure Fermentation Tips and Tricks

[@BrewabitRick]

I love pressure fermenting and always transfer like you do. I love the idea of capturing the c02 I’m definitely going to adopt that. Nice one cheers 👍🍻

[@Metatr0n]

For the closed loop transfer, depending on situation I would not advise to go by your method of having higher pressure in the fermenter above than in the keg below and connecting both gas posts later. As the fermenter is mostly very cold (cold crash, lagering) and the keg is at room/basement temperature, there is CO2 released from the beer, causing foaming in the keg. If on top of that the pressure in the keg is lower than in the fermenter, it will release additional CO2 from the beer, foaming up even more. If the keg is somewhat larger than the beer volume in the fermenter, that's not a problem but for me for example, my batch sizes are always exact keg sizes, therefore I can't allow for any foam to be created. Therefore I make sure the pressure in the fermenter and the keg is equalized by a gas jumper cable even before I connect the liquid jumper cable. On top of that I store the empty keg in my Keezer for a night, together with the fermenter to make sure that both vessels have the same temperature. This keeps foaming to an absolute minimum, allowing me to completely top off the keg with beer.

[@KegThat]

It's a good point that the pressure can't be too higher, but in this case there's just a slight difference and I've never had any bad foaming. Something else which can help is having a narrow liquid tube so the transfer is slow. I also store my kegs in my keezer so they're usually quite cold before transfer.

[@NW-lj6oo]

Great video and I’ll definitely give this a try.

[@DrunkDelilahBrewery]

So once the pressure in the fermenter and the collection tank (CO2) equalises - surely it will prohibit the CO2 from escaping from the fermenter?

[@KegThat]

Yes that's correct. The setup is a spunding valve on the fermenter set to 12-15psi, and then a spunding valve set to 12-15 psi on the collection tank. This method will pressurise the fermenter a bit quicker. Ultimately the pressure will be dictated by which ever spunding valve is higher.

[@DrunkDelilahBrewery]

@@KegThat You’re missing my point mate. If they are in a closed position (loop) then the fermentation will produce more than the set amount on the spunding valve so it will continue to increase in the tanks….as they can only vent to each other…if this exceeds 35-40 psi it could split the fermenter. If is fine if one of the spunding valves are open, but in your closed loop they are not as the fermenter vents to the keg and the keg to the fermenter…so upon equalisation they will both pressurise until the fermentation is over.

[@KegThat]

The closed loop bit only happens during transfer, not fermentation. During fermentation there is a spunding valve which vents extra pressure during fermentation into the air, not back into the FV. Is that what you're querying?

[@DrunkDelilahBrewery]

@@KegThat Ah right - yes, I must have missed that mate. I thought you were trying to build up lots of pressure in the capture keg lol....all good. Glad it works for you.

[@kitobi10660]

i also use the king cubby and junior, i ferment in the chubby, and transfer to the junior to serve with a closed loop, i just got a 19l Oxebar to add to my 2x pressure fermenters, it has a simple sugar wash inside that produces more CO2 than i require, i also have a 4l one to push starsan through my lines etc, i like the sound of a coffee vanilla stout, im doing a 30 bottle wine kit for the wife next and ill give this a whirl after

[@bigsqueegie]

Clear and concise as usual, great informative vid. Pressure fermenting definitely happening this year.. just need to decide on one... Are you prefering the Apollo over the Chubby?

[@KegThat]

thanks! They are both absolutely fine for fermenting, but the Apollo has some features which make it easier, like the dry hop port and thermowell. Also it's conical which is good for fermentation. I think both are good but Apollo is my preference. What are you thinking of getting?

[@bigsqueegie]

@@KegThat thanks for the info. Probably a toss up between the Apollo or unitank version and the Chubby or All-rounder.. so probably the Apollo overall from what I've seen and your advice

[@TheMattMustain]

What is your number of vanilla pods to beer ratio? I've had varying results most likely due to the quality of vanilla beans.

[@KegThat]

I have found quality makes a huge difference. The first time I made this recipe which was a while ago now, I went to Waitrose and got the best vanilla pods I could find. Those really added a strong vanilla flavour. I've also found leaving them for longer can help too. The pods I used were from an online shop I've never used before and it took a week of steeping to get a fairly strong vanilla flavour from one pod. So I'd say 1 really good vanilla pod for 20-25L beer steeped for up to a week should do it, but if you don't have access to that then more pods should also work.

[@johanschynski]

🍺🍺🍺

[@KegThat]

🍻🍻🍻

[@markluxton3402]

Price is not the only factor to consider between plastic and stainless steel. Food grade plastic is a joke IMO. Plastic absorbs and imparts flavors, and holds bacteria. Plastic can break and melt. Silicone hose over Nylon. Glass and stainless steel over plastic. Polyester brew bags over Nylon, cotton over both.

[@KegThat]

Interesting points you raise, I'm actually planning a video on stainless steel vs plastic where I discuss the pros and cons of each, I think these are valid and will discuss. I've personally never tasted the previous brew in my beer from plastic, but do you have a different experience?

[@markluxton3402]

@@KegThat I have made 3 brews in a "food grade" bucket. The smell of beer/hops can not be removed from the bucket. This means the plastic is permeable and has exchanged compounds with the brew. Further I have known since long before BPA free, working with Environment Canada scientists collecting data and samples, they can not make plastic that does not contaminate water. If you can smell plastic, it is off gassing. Watch this YT video for a bit of education on this: "How to Reduce Your Exposure to Harmful Microplastics | Dr. Rhonda Patrick" IMHO Food Grade plastic is FDA lies, for industry. I have only just got back into brewing. I have three more glass carboys on the way, different sizes, second hand, along with all the fellows brewing gear. I will get more stainless when I can afford it. I have a stainless beer thief on order. I will be getting stainless steel racking cane and bottle filler ASAP. An example of something I heard, but have not verified, is that microwaving food(bad idea no matter what) covered with plastic wrap, causes pure dioxin to drip onto food. There are many nasty chemicals that leach out of plastics. They were forced to remove BPA, which should never have been used, but they were calling plastics "food grade" before this. FDA does not work for the people, it is an industry revolving door.

[@markluxton3402]

@@KegThat I wonder if they could use transparent ceramics to make fermenters? May be more expensive, but would be heat proof and very hard to break, and I assume more "food grade". The window on my wood stove is ceramic. Very heat proof and harder to break than tempered glass.

[@markluxton3402]

@@KegThat Not all stainless steel or glass is the same either, with reactions to liquids/foods.

[@markluxton3402]

@@KegThat As usual lately YT censors any truth telling. Watch this video:" "How to Reduce Your Exposure to Harmful Microplastics | Dr. Rhonda Patrick"