Primefilm XAs: A Dedicated 35mm Film Scanner

Just to clear up any confusion: This scanner is identical to the Reflecta RPS-10M.
If you're looking to up your 35mm home-scanning workflow then you've probably heard of Plustek, but have you heard of Primefilm/Reflecta? This scanner is able to achieve 4000+ Dpi and even has autofocus and batch feeding functionality.
In this video I go through its operation and features and show some example scans, one black and white and one colour negative.

[@teriyakipuppy]

The device looks like a sanitizer dispenser.

[@thaum1]

Thanks for the video. Some great info in it. I loved he scale at the beginning of it.

[@2071photo]

good to see you back! ^_^

[@godscola]

Hey Johnathan, I'm glad more people are covering the XAs! I've had mine for maybe a year now and it's so much better than any flatbed scan I've ever done, even with ANR glass on the Epson holders. My one and only complaint is that for some reason, the scanner does NOT like the original Acros 100 emulsion, and it "slips" from the advancing gears. I've not had this problem with any other film stock, just original Acros. Very weird, and very annoying!

[@peterfarr9591]

I just got one of these and found in the manual that they actually stress you need to scan with the emulsion side up, and flip the image later in your preferred image editor of choice. I was shocked at just how much sharper it was emulsion side up (after calibrating focus)! Just wanted to pass this info along

[@synistralyssw2275]

Hi! Are you using vuescan? I’m curious on how you manages to calibrate the focus of your scanner, I’m in the process of doing it for mine but I’m at a loss haha

[@peterfarr9591]

@@synistralyssw2275 I use silverfast and use the manual focus option shown in the video

[@yuriy.marushchenko]

Yes, it's confusing that the label on the scanner and the manual recommend different things. I insert the film as directed in the manual (emulsion up) and select "Mirror" checkbox in VueScan.

[@soundmixervegas]

@@yuriy.marushchenkoThe label and the manual are correct.

[@yuriy.marushchenko]

@@soundmixervegas Yes, the manual says to put the film emulsion side up, but the label on the scanner shows frame numbers (1, 2, 3) not mirrored how they should be if emulsion is up.

[@zguy95135]

I'm very impressed that it actually has autofocus, I might pick one of these up. I've been camera scanning for years but this is far more convenient (and still keeps the high quality) even though it's considerably slower. I don't have the time or will to scan hunched over a copy stand lately... this would be nice to have.

[@ericlombart]

Hey Joseph, any interest in a used one that’s in perfect condition? I still have the original packaging, too. I recently bought this same model and used it a couple times, but started shooting 120mm soon after so I had to switch to DSLR scanning. Yes, I’m that guy hunched over a copy stand now 🤓

[@lukaszs4041]

@@ericlombart hey Eric are you still selling it?

[@brubecktime]

Thanks for the review! I'm actually trying to find info/comparisons between the output of this scanner and something scanned in a mid tier DSLR/Mirrorlesss setup. Would be great to see it in one of your next videos. Have a great day!

[@JonathanNotley]

No problem! DSLR comparison coming either next week or in 8 months based on my upload schedule

[@JonathanNotley]

Coming out tomorrow morning!

[@TapijtReiniger]

I'm currently using an Opticfilm 8200i, also a dedicated 35mm scanner, and I'm wondering if changing to the Primefilm XAs would be a noticeable upgrade, what do you think?

[@765934]

Well done.

[@huzizach]

Hey Jonathan, any chance you’ll provide a link to a b&w uncompressed unedited sample image from this scanner? I’m seriously toying with the idea of buying one. The v850 just doesn’t cut the mustard for all the effort and good glass I invest into with 35mm. I see the scanner has its quirks but they all do to some extent right?!

[@Guairenito]

nice video Jonathan. Would you be willing to do a video showing us all the settings and values you use in Silverfast to get the most out of this scanner?

[@JonathanNotley]

Look at my silverfast videos, just search silverfast 8.8 on my channel

[@nakedexposure964]

Currently rocking a Silverfast 8100 that I’ve been using for a couple years, it was such a step up for me from my Epsom flatbed! But I’ve still been craving more, only half way through the video but I’m sold on this Primefilm, gonna start saving for one now I honestly didn’t think there was another step before a Coolscan 9000 ED which I could never afford (but always dream of haha)

[@thomaszhang4765]

It’s weird that the Primefilm XAs and Reflecta RPS-10M are the same machine, but their prices are vastly different. The XAs sells for around $500, while the RPS-10M sells for €900 here in Europe.

[@thorstenjaspert9394]

I thing it is caused by different tax settings in EU and the USA. The one is the best device in the 35 mm range.

[@devon2430]

Many thanks 👍

[@poniatowski3547]

Would be interesting to see the comparison between dslr scanning and the scanner. I use a Z6 mounted on a durst colour copy 350 with an enlarging lens attached (el Nikkor f2.8). I have found the negative holder is key to ensure a good ‘scan’

[@joeltunnah]

I’ve done it, there’s no comparison. 5D + 100mm L macro vs Plustek 8200i. Dedicated scanner is far superior. Plus with a proper scanner you get IR dust removal.

[@JonathanNotley]

I'm planning on doing a direct head to head with a DSLR scanning setup and this scanner. My plan is to scan the same negatives and display them beside one another, similar to how the autofocus box worked in Silverfast in this video, then talk a bit about the workflow and the speed for 36 frames.

[@JonathanNotley]

Also Joel is right IR dust removal is amazingly convenient, I think that photoshop dust editing should be counted as part of the time if I do a 'whole roll' race

[@joeltunnah]

@@JonathanNotley yes. Whenever I see videos or articles promoting dslr scanning, they leave off dust removal. It’s incredibly time consuming in Ps/Lr.

[@JonathanNotley]

I just filmed this video and it’s incredibly close between the camera and the scanner. Honestly the camera is sharper and the scanner has better colour separation but the camera has more dust and the scanner has more noise.

[@user-hc6lv5jz8x]

My RPS 10M just hung. After hours of sounding a loud beeping noise while stuck on one neg frame, that it or Cyberview did not like, I cannot get it to work. Power off/on which fixed this before when I was present and took fast action, this time no luck as I was away from the machine for hours while it was calling for help. It now just sits and makes a grinding souns. Advice? Can I open the case and release something. The neg is intact - no pieces are stuck inside, but it is very confused.

[@RobertLeeAtYT]

I have a Nikon CS5000 and CS9000. So, a few comments: 1. The CS5000 can scan an entire roll of film at a time. It does require a modification to the strip film adapter. You’ll have to be comfortable with basic soldering. Basically it means having to jumper across two solder pads in the adapter to disable the 6 frame limit imposed by the firmware. A whole roll scan of 38 exposures takes about 30 minutes but is unattended. 2. The commercial minilab scanners like the Nortisu mentioned or Kodak Pakons actually provide lower quality scans than the Nikon. The minilab scanners provides lower spatial and tonal resolution. Dense films, e.g., deep shadow areas of slide (E6) film will completely block. What the minilab scanners do excel at is speed. A 36 frame roll takes just a few minutes to digitize. Not surprising right? This is how the shops in the 90s were able to offer one hour turn around from drop-off to print pickup. 3. The Imacon virtual drum and true drum scanners each offer only slight incremental digitization quality but at dramatically higher cost. Not worthwhile. Lastly, in 2022: scan with your digital camera. This is the highest quality digitization method available to amateurs currently. I use a Panasonic G9 in the 80MP mode and a macro lens. Take multiple exposures and focus stack to eliminate film flatness and film plane angle issues. I have some old film negatives and Velvia from years ago that were Tango drum scanned. If anything, the G9/macro lens scans are a bit better.

[@ErwinSerle]

Would really like to see the American street with the Chevvy you used for the comparison of the Epson and the Plustek

[@ErwinSerle]

It's there as well, too impatient we are

[@julianrozental525]

According to the manual, film should be loaded emulsion side up and not down as the video mentions. Not clear why the label on the machine would indicate otherwise.

[@randallstewart175]

The ability to batch scan a roll of film is a positive feature, but it may be offset by a more than clumsy ability ti scan single frames, unless they are first placed in slide mounts. Snce most folks store 35mm in strips of 4 0-6 frames, this may not be an issue for most people. The quality of the output image seems highly dependent on the brand of software used,with the scanner, and its version of Digital Ice spotting management is not the best, as noted. All that said, it seems to be the best general use 35mm dedicated scanner on the market and a bargain. Far less hassle to use, and far better imaging result than the popular technique today of using a digital camera and macro lens to photo process film image.w

[@SneakyCaleb]

Definitely not far better. I have both this machine and a dslr scanning setup with the valoi system and my a7iv. They are both good.

[@AxelSmidt]

Jonathan, what’s your experience with this scanner’s autofocus? I bought this scanner about a week ago, and the autofocus seems very inaccurate. Have you experienced any similar issues? Thanks!

[@JonathanNotley]

First check film orientation and software. In silverfast you can move the AF point around and do a 100% focus check with one of the options.

[@AxelSmidt]

@@JonathanNotley thanks for responding! I’ve got the Reflecta RPS 10M, (which is identical to the Primefilm XAs) and the user manual for that scanner says to scan with the emulsion side down. After I posted the previous comment, I downloaded the user manual for the Primefilm XAs, which says to scan with the emulsion side up. I’ve tried it out a bit and, so far, the results are much better and sharper.

[@ThePwig]

I am really intrigued by this scanner. But all the moving parts kind of scare me if it breaks.

[@stevenstevensteven4]

looks like a modern Pakon f135, but I'm sure the Pakon still gives a nicer rendering

[@lensman5762]

This scanner is marketed under different brands in different part of the world. The good thing is it is a proper scanner, the bad is that it is made in China. I still curse Nikon for discontinuing the Coolscan series of scanners. Mine is getting old like myself. Still, this scanner is better than nothing. BTW, the true optical resolution of this scanner if used at its max nominal resolution is about 4100 dpi. The 25 year old Nikon Coolscan V has a true optical resolution of 3900 dpi and it can scan a B&W neg in less than 30 seconds.

[@odukar2315]

The Perceived Quality (Noise, Buttons,..) seems very poor. Does it make sense to scan with 5000dpi with B&W 35mm film? My experience is that 2400dpi is mostly sufficient.

[@JonathanNotley]

Have you ever seen a scanner with high build quality? Even my old Minolta Dimage Scan Elite II had awful feeling buttons and an awful plastic stand despite its metal casing. The noises are weird but consistent so I'm not sure its parts wearing out of a damaged servo... just a quirky piece of design. 5k dpi is way too much but because of the slight disconnect between nominal and actual DPI I prefer to 'scan high to resample'. Essentially 5k resampled to 2400 dpi has more detail than a file scanned at 2400dpi. Look at the adjustment I make around the 12:00 mark.

[@odukar2315]

@@JonathanNotley I use a Canon CanoScan 9000f Mark II with Silverfast 9 Software. Perceived Quality is ok and the noises are acceptable. The scan results (2400dpi) are sufficient. Final improvements in LR and PS are mandatory. Unfortunately, there are no "new" scanners on the market which are able to scan 35mm, 6x6 and 4x5 inch scans. Hope that Epson, Canon or another manufacturer will come to market with something new, fulfilling more customers demand in quality, noise and useability.

[@Seeattle]

My main question would be if it outperforms the Nikon Coolscans of back in the day

[@JonathanNotley]

It outperforms the Nikons in that you can buy it new from B&H

[@soundmixervegas]

I am sorry but : Insert the filmstrip with emulsion side UP from the left film entrance to achieve the best quality scans.

[@geoffhoward2171]

Hi Jonathan, it looks very much like a rebadged Reflecta model. Any comment?

[@JonathanNotley]

It’s a Reflecta RPS-10M

[@geoffhoward2171]

@@JonathanNotley Thanks for reply Jonathan I have a Dimage Elite 5400, using Silverfast8, how would you say they comare

[@marinelaboi]

Also looks like an old Kodak RFS 3600

[@erichstocker8358]

Certainly a nice review and you did a great job. However, reading the reviews on these, many people say they went through 4 or 5 before they found one that works. Also, some reviewers indicated that it worked for a few months and then failed (typical of Chinese built electronics). Reviewers also indicated that they difficulty with the vendor getting any real customer service. Do you have any information about this aspect of the scanner?

[@wtf1992lynx]

That thing sounds exactly like a capsule coffee machine ahaha

[@JonathanNotley]

It does!

[@RedStarRogue]

3:30 wait...Coolscans can do that?! I own one and there's no slot on the back to fit a take up spool?

[@JonathanNotley]

Not all of them can I’m afraid, and some of the ones that can require user modification if you can’t find obscure parts from 20 years ago. If you want to look into it try typing the model name you own into Flickr or maybe try googling “model name batch feed mod”

[@RedStarRogue]

@@JonathanNotley Blah I own the V LS 50 ED. Only the 4000-5000 take the adaptor.

[@chronicconja420]

very interesting after seeing horrible reviews for quite some time now

[@jheelan]

Has anyone been able to find one in europe ?

[@finn4240]

Nope i searched for days but ended up buying it from amazon US

[@tutzu4]

I find the sound too low

[@stephan.scharf]

Hey Jonathan, needle ear is scanners optic. Keep in mind the whole film scanning process is soooo slow and you are not willing to do it again in future times after recognizing of getting much more quality with an old schooled coolscan. I highly recommend Coolscan or Minolta film scanners, their prime lenses are unbeatable in quality. Primefilm/Reflecta scanners are chinese mass products and I doubt their lenses are of superiour quality. But maybe I'm wrong. Nice to see you again, we missed you!

[@buyaport]

The great thing about analogue photography is that you can scan them anytime again. Who knows what scanning technologies will come up in the future -- perhaps "AI" based?

[@ptrbask640]

Hi could you do direct comparison with Plustek? I have plustek and I am pretty happy (switching from Epson V700). For the small price with Silverfast it does amazing job. It is not auto feed but I can live with that. Kyle McDougall did compare Plustek with CoolScan9000 and the differences are small kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZmxlZynZ9B-qJo So I don't want to believe that XAs is significantly better than Plustek . Also in Europe these scanners are sold by name Reflecta and are slightly more expensive than in US

[@Frisenette]

Slightly‽ Close to double the price.

[@joeltunnah]

I don’t agree with your ranking the Plustek down near the bottom. I’ve directly compared Noritsu top tier lab scans with scans from my Plustek 8200i, and the Plustek produced better results in every way.

[@JonathanNotley]

Were those Noritsu scans full size? I'd chose Noritsu over flextight/drum most of the time. I used to have an 8200i and whilst the image quality was decent it was a real pain to scan whole rolls and the lack of AF always left me wanting more. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJ6mZohrls6Wotk This video shows the same image of the car on both an epson V850 and a plustek 8200. I think the Primefilm has a slight edge.

[@joeltunnah]

@@JonathanNotley yes, they were full size Noritsu scans I paid $24USD per roll to get from a well regarded lab often mentioned online. And FYI, I run my 8200i at 3600dpi. I also rewatched your 8200i vs V850 comparison... the Plustek completely destroys the Epson, sorry.

[@blato017]

Great content but for the love of god fix your sound levels

[@azzalos]

Why isn’t any video of this scanner show the actual scanning process with it? Beats me.

[@JonathanNotley]

Try 14:51 in this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fpmXZnSFgtF3jqM

[@azzalos]

@@JonathanNotley I must be crazy but what should I be seeing? I meant showing how the actual roll goes into the physical scanner and how it is batch processed, not the monitor and the software part. I want to see how fast it moves through the scanner.

[@godscola]

@@azzalos it's slow. If you scan at 5000dpi and use IR dust removal, each frame takes roughly two minutes. BUT, once you set it, you can completely ignore it and go do the dishes or walk the dog in the meantime!

[@JonathanNotley]

Imagine we’re reviewing paint colours. I show the resulting walls not how to apply it and how long to leave it to dry. The film uptake slot is on the left of the scanner, it takes around 3:30 to scan a single frame in colour with infra red dust removal.

[@azzalos]

@@godscola thanks Jacob! That's what I wanted to know.

[@Mionwang]

Bruh normalise your audio to 0 dB! Great content otherwise.

[@JonathanNotley]

I tried to normalise it but it never seems to work as I intend it to ☹️

[@Mionwang]

@@JonathanNotley did you use a hard limiter? If not, use a hard limiter to normalise. Normalisers would bring the peaks down or up to the set level, assuming it uses true peaks, while with a hard limiter you can amplify everything while not letting anything clip.

[@JonathanNotley]

I use 'Normalise Audio Levels>'Sample Peak Program'>'-9.0dBFS'>'Relative' in Davinci Resolve. Should I try moving that -9 to 0?

[@Mionwang]

@@JonathanNotley yes definitely. You might still wanna add a hard limiter or compression or both to even the levels out in case you don't already.

[@finn4240]

Bought this scanner, I'm now into my second model and both of them are broken (out of the box). After hours and hours of trouble shoot I'm done with this crap and getting an optic film. Also the drivers dont work with silver fast any more either so if you have a working one be ready to pay 70 bucks for silverfast. if you rely on Infrared (like me) dont get this the infrared scanner is garbage

[@dummatube]

Pointless comparison when you keep sampling the images down!

[@JonathanNotley]

You’re watching this on KZbin. There’s going to be resampling.

[@valentino__tarantino]

Invest in some preamps for your mic mate, can bareley understand what you‘re saying without having my headphones on maximum volume. Feels like listening to mumble rap...