Printing on the World's Fastest 3D Printer

[@aaamott]

Pleeeease for the sake of open source patent the extruder idea as soon as you can and release it under an open license before Fystec patents it like they've done with the Orbiter extruder! I suggest you file a provisional patent before your release then set up a Kickstarter or something to gather the funds to pay for a patent lawyer. Just make sure you beat me to it! I've been working on the same kind of idea! The important thing isn't who gets it, it's that Fystec and other companies who *didn't* invent it don't get to patent it.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Can you provide me more infos on that? If possible DM me on discord

[@Max-tj7bp]

Well this video is in the public domain, therefore it introduces prior art, what should make this invention unpatentable for others, as far as I understand, but im no lawyer or patent attorney

[@aaamott]

@@Max-tj7bp you'd think so! But apparently patent lawyers don't Google! Fystec's patent on the Orbiter extruder was a blatant copy. They didn't even put any work into it.

[@aaamott]

@@MattThePrintingNerd about the patent or my own ideas? I'm not on the discord yet, but I can join! For the patent, you just file a provisional patent in the US. It's like $60. Not sure how other countries handle it.

[@ernsthaft6929]

In German this means. Stand der Technik .. prior Art. I don't know but I think, I believe this should apply in Germany to.

[@squidmissile750]

I finished my 100 a few days ago, it prints great and already made a few functional parts for around the house. One problem I've been having is the bed tilting like crazy when it homes z, I have the longer version of the linear bearings arriving Monday I'm going to try those out and see if it holds bed more flat

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Hey nice to hear, my bed also tilts a bit, like 3-4mm when you press really hard. Did you noticed any artefacts on the printed parts?

[@squidmissile750]

@@MattThePrintingNerd no artifacts on the parts at all, prints are coming out looking beautiful, I've noticed I've had to baby step up roughly 0.2mm at the start of every print to avoid digging the nozzle into the bed on the first layer. I will try to record a video tonight

[@hd-be7di]

Omg dude you put the whole printer on Printables you rock

[@joewynn2445]

Wow i admire your work and the fact that your putting this out there for everyone to take advantage of owning. Ive been wanting a faster printing printer but dont have $500 and up to spend on a printer. So im going to start printing this. Thank you so much!

[@joewynn2445]

@@jrl1685 how fast does that one print? Is that the one that's advertising 600mms?

[@XA--pb9ni]

That´s the bambulab clone@@joewynn2445

[@B0A2]

Super excited to continue watching the development of this project.

[@1fareast14]

6:39 you can squash the z dimension down in the slicer for steeper overhangs, that's what I do for benchies

[@lickytime9683]

Increasing line width helps too

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah that's a good tip!

[@JonLaRue]

@Guys Shop has been talking about making this on his Podcast after he get's his Voron 2.4 completed. He's a big fan and holds you in high regard.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Didn't knew that, now I have to listen to his podcast, thx for the info

[@notchipotle]

I'm sold, I already have a lot of the parts from the previous project

[@kodmod-z7b]

Месяц назад я купил свой первый ендер 3v2 нео. И теперь Я знаю что он мне напечает, действительно полезного. Это колоссальная работа, вы молодец.

[@Bruceanddenise]

Great work Man!!! Proof is in the Pudding.

[@hokoon]

Impressive cooling performance.

[@edwardnardella6854]

I am confident that the final limit of FDM thermo plastic 3D printing will be cooling. Eventually (possibly years or even decades from now) the volumetric flow will be high enough that even chilled liquid (in not even sure you could find a way to reliably print while using such a cooling system) cooling will be insufficient to prevent deformation as more plastic is added. At that point, the only mitigation available will be some kind of supports, which may well result in slower prints. The reason I believe this is that there doesn't seem to be any meaningful (as in, one that will come into play any time soon) fundamental upper limit on maximum speed and acceleration of the print head. The recent development of induction heated nozzles suggests that volumetric flow may not have a meaningful upper limit either. And even if there are meaningful limits in these areas, multi tool printing with fancy slicing and control could allow a designer to dodge them. Cooling on the other hand has fundamental limits that are well within the realm of being hit by FDM thermoplastic printing in the foreseeable future. You can only cool at a limited speed based on surface area, as you approach this limit, it becomes dramatically more difficult to increase performance. I'm so many things, especially at the limits of what is theoretically possible, cooling is the limit. From literally every kind of combustion engine (rocket, jet, ICE), to high speed atmospheric vehicles, to computation, to power storage, to power generation, the ability to cool its the eventual limit.

[@LincolnWorld]

Wow! I'm happy to have speedy prints, but I care much more about the quality and accuracy of the prints, and this printer seems to take of all those categories to fantastic levels. I have an old wooden makerbot, and a 6 year old Qidi printer. Both are core x/y. Do you think I could convert those machines into something like this? I'm thinking that they already have most of the parts, but maybe I'd need to buy a new mainboard for each. I would use the case's and belts as is if possible. Add some new extruders if needed, but not have to print the whole structure of the printers. Would it make sense to do that? If so, what things would I definitely need to swap out for new components? Thank you for sharing your fascinating work with the community!

[@SynthaPak]

Great job Matt

[@pj8979]

The alpaca is amazing, I am inspired 😊

[@Jerico64]

Hopefully I will receive the parts soon and can start building! I'm very keen to test see direct drive!

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Welcome to the dark side :-)

[@erroxcoder]

Hmmmm I think I'll soon build something like this instead of a voron 0.2😅

[@jacoscholtz2887]

Hay Matt. I LOVE your work. The 100 is the best thing since slice cheese. It's to bad I can't have it. Things are tough is South Africa. Keep up the good work. 😮

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah, I have friends in Eqypt and every time I visit them I come with many new sneakers. It's sad that not every country has access to such technology :-(

[@kimballhutchins957]

Does the 100 work in an unheated enclosure? I'm curious if putting it in one for some time would warp the printed parts and cause issues?

[@3sotErik]

I wish I could use you tool head dual 5015 blower system on my heavily modified Ender 3 v2. I'm using the Manta system and don't love it.

[@Vido89]

@MattThePrintingNerd please can you give me link of that bearing that you printed ?

[@Vido89]

Awesome printer and even better print's. I cant find that model of bearing I want to test my Hyper Cube with it ... can you give me a link ? tnx

[@dennis8019]

thats cool.. lots of fast printers that print air videos. but finally a real working one 😉

[@solinvictus1213]

good job! do you have the tolerance test stl seen at 1:54?

[@robhood-c2o]

Crazy Speed 😵

[@ameliabuns4058]

this is really a cool design! what filament is your frame printed out of? world's fastest is a bold claim but I still love this printer!

[@josephsmith601]

Subscribed! 💯💯💯👍👍👍

[@AndrewTheRadarMan]

Damn that printer is fast!

[@naren4wood560]

what kind of filament do you use? and do you have anay recommendations?

[@maximkurochkin6855]

Hey, Matt! Appreciate enthusiasts like you doing own perfect product. Speed and quality impressed me, but I have some questions for your after reading specs on Printables: 1) Why do you use obsolete Bowden extruder? Will you remake it with Direct later? 2) Why bed is 230x230, but build volume is 165x165x150? Is it possible to scale printer and printable area to 300x300x300 for example? 3) What is firmware on this printer? Is it possible to make it on Klipper? 4) Have you tried another filaments, except PLA and PETG? For example, ABS or Flex? Thank you.

[@TheToric]

Can answer for the first one. Bowdens are lighter, as the mass of the stepper motor isnt on the gantry. Less mass on the gantry=faster.

[@kloboucek]

3) since the BOM lists Banana Pi M2 Zero - I dare to guess it is based on Klipper firmware already. You can generally Klipper-rize any printer as long as there's firmware available for given mainboard which there's a lot, even for the very obsolete Arduino Mega 2560 :-)

[@maximkurochkin6855]

@@TheToric yea, I know that Bowden is lighter, but I am very interested to try this on Direct, because is more modern stuff for printing

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Bowden was never obsolete, the faster you print the less sideeffects you get with a bowden setup. I never had the typical retraction is clogging my hotend problems, neither the pressure advanced problems. The problems I describe in the video are software related, so a direct drive would be a workaround

[@Devills_hill]

Really want to build this thing just to learn. Would it make sense to print the parts in petg instead of pla?

[@kokodin5895]

well so far i spend 20 hours on printing the printer bed on stock clasic ender 3, doesn't sound much impressive knowing how fast this printer work, but i did printed whole bed, all 3 pieces and one of them even twice during this time. and obviously like a crazy person i printed them all from petg using 0,8mm nozzle, i was initially trying to print abs but it was too warpy without enclosure so far i am impressed with part clearences and how things fit together i did however encounter one huge setback during printing of the bed. the middle part went with no issues, but the sides have those nasty to print overhanging panels and that don't really agree with printing petg and 0,8mm nozzle so initial piece was a failure, mostly because removing support material with a router didn't go as planed, but i printed support plugs, covered them with masking tape and printed both sides with no issues with no support structures in gcode, just put a block into the hole when print got to 10mm in height , the only problem i got from that i will have to shim the ears at the edge because of how much it warped in the corners so there is a question given how hard it is to print sticking out ears like this wouldn't it be better to just have 3 screws instead of 6 on each side and make them shorter so they could be printed with small plug with no warping, or the middle part fliped upside down so it is easier to print all 3 pieces? i mean fliping the middle part would help to print the side pieces with no support and there would be no changes to the middle piece itself and slight difference in the finish would be covered by the bed anyway so people with ocd would probably not even freak out other than screws heads facing down

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah I feel your pain, printing chunky parts in PETG is pretty hard, especially with the overhands the wings have. We have people in the community that build THE 100's out of PETG, maybe you should join our discord and ask them for a couple tips

[@kokodin5895]

@@MattThePrintingNerd i have no intention of using discord, my main email was used multiple times by someone else in a phishing attempt to force me to create account in there so i really don't like the service since they took ages to process my request to cancel those accounts, kind of long and bitter story so no discord for me as for my pain with printing the printer i have noticed bottom part of it can be printed with no supports if you just slice the motor mounts flat and print the sliced part as a separate piece so i am almost done with the bottom and back, but the top might be tricky i will most likely have to do some dummy plugs for the motor and print it that side down but then i will probably have to print the bottom bars as separate pieces in my opinion models are good and chunky as is to use as a printer but some of them are not well optimised for printing them, because well optimised printable model has no supports at all if i figure it out i will probably post a video with muy list of changes so you won't be missing out on this grandpa ideas if i live long enough to post it that is :P have nice day and have fun printing

[@patrickberger4115]

What size is the biggest part of the printing parts? Able to print this on a Voron 0.1 ?

[@andybonnp.4330]

what is the model of the 3D printer you used?

[@Quepiid]

My stock ender 2 can do that print in 42 mins at 20% infill and .28mm layer height. 52 mins at .2

[@alexanderjuarez5663]

Just wondering, is there any benefit to using carbon fiber linear rods? Just wondering if there is any merit to using it as a solution for the gantry.

[@peterclegg2609]

Sorry in advance for my ignorance, if I build the printer do you provide a source for the firmware as I am clueless regarding klipper, thanks.

[@3dexperiments]

Brilliant!

[@shumailriaz9204]

OMG, the speed is mind blowing 🤯. All great at the madness level, now the ultimate question is; what will this kind of speed do to the printer or its running parts?

[@3sotErik]

Are there larger variants of this, even if not as fast?

[@alexanderscholz8855]

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@essentials1016]

Do Layer directions matter when printing the 100?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah they do, have a look at our paper printing guide, there are pictures of the orientation for every part

[@essentials1016]

@@MattThePrintingNerd thanks!

[@essentials1016]

I can not find the pictures you are talking about. Could you send me a link, please?@@MattThePrintingNerd

[@aaamott]

Update: using my first physical preheater, I'm getting just over 25% improved flow!

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

hehe, yeah that really improves the performance, also if you have 2 heaters try to overdrive the filament in the first place and cool it a bit down on the main heater, that will improve the flow even more without burning the filament

[@aaamott]

@@MattThePrintingNerd that's a great idea. My "preheater" isn't a true preheater - it fits inside the volcano length nozzle. This version only takes another 4.5mm of length. I'll make a video on it soon.

[@CarloVaccariPlus]

The cooling power is impressive.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Thx man

[@timdoink6873]

Which brands filament do you use at this kind of speeds?

[@wildcard328]

I love your printer. I only have an ender3 v2 but want to build your printer. One question do you plan on creating a dual exteruder verstion? I really need to print in 2 or more colors

[@Lordkillerus]

How much of the printer is going to change with next version? Or rather which parts are least likely to change? I'd like to start working on it but If there is new itteration comming soon-ish that makes me question that.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

The next version of the printer will come in Q1/Q2 next year so there is a lot of time until the next update. I will focus on the top frame in that release

[@basarkuzucuoglu8174]

Direct drive 🎉

[@John-qc6of]

Thats insane wow ... I want a 650mm x 650mm x 400mm build volume one that double the sppex of the last print in this vid. I'll pick it up next week ok 😂👍👍

[@SinghKhalsa-o7c]

Hi dear, plz share the name & company of the printer. I want to buy it

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

It's my own design, it's open source, so if you like you could build one by yourself

[@sb53-systemssc28]

good job bro

[@no1be4me2]

I wonder by building one on your own in Canadian dollars how much would it come up...

[@John_Mack]

I applaud those who like to DIY or Tinker endlessly with settings, but I am not one of those. I want to push play and print. Can I buy a tested, assembled, and fully functional printer?

[@ronsone8373]

Would like to see an enclosure and see some abs tests

[@xoriso3d]

what do you think about the ender 3 NG?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

I don't know.. on the one side im a fan of upcycling, so it might be a good thing to build one. On the other side so many people started with a $50 craiglist printer and every ender 3 could be one of those printers that convert someone new to the dark side ;-)

[@windowsmacgenius]

I wonder how this will compare to 247printing and his setup

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah me 2, I already reached out to him maybe we will start something in the future ;-)

[@artart1774]

Can we buy this anywhere ?

[@strhunter666]

i wana build one of these but first i think ill have to modify it for a cr10 bed size

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Sure! Have a lot at our discord, we already have a small group of people building a bigger version of the printer

[@WHYYTEwtf]

6.23min with no Tuning for the Benchmark. VZbot Goliath 2WD 24v,. Will try it next week with 100k+ Accel. I change to 48v and awd :D

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

That's a great start, did you face any issues with underextrusion on the seam lines?

[@WHYYTEwtf]

@@MattThePrintingNerd not at all. was pretty good. i just cranked up my allday Settings. But rn my Stock tronxy Motors are the Limit. ill try with Speedys again. 50k/600mms is Limit. 2walls 3 Bottom 3 Top 10% Infill But ur Hotend will be interesseting. Do u really think, it will be better than Goliath?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

I would not post something when I would not be 100% sure that it was faster. But we are talking about a prototype vs. a market ready product, so we compare here apples and oranges. Im even not sure if that Hotend will make it into massproduction.

[@GraemeGunn]

Hooray! More junk for the landfills!

[@heinzkup]

hey matt, whats about ultra soft tpu?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Since the current setup is bowden based I would not recommend it. I already printed harder TPU variants and it worked well with a capricorn bowden tube

[@johanneskampfl6794]

Hi guys, is there anyone out there who has experience with printing ASA or ABS with the 100? Is it even possible to print these materials with the 100?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

We have an enclosed version of the printer in the community, but I personally have no experiance with it

[@johanneskampfl6794]

Thanks for the fast answer 👍

[@johanneskampfl6794]

I will look into it

[@deandavies1462]

My 100 is now about 60% printed, im more waiting on the slow delivery from china, if mine ends up printing half as fast I will be happy

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yeah I feel your pain :-)

[@deandavies1462]

​@@MattThePrintingNerd At least it gives me time to finish printing parts while I wait for all the missing parts to arrive. Checking Ali express order page is becomming a bit of an obsession....

[@DJProPlusMax]

Is that still the CHC Pro volcano hotend?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

No for maximum flow rate I've upgraded to a Rapido in UHF config

[@DJProPlusMax]

Oh, but how much more does it cost in comparison to the CHC Pro? I want to build THE100, and I would like to achieve as much speed for the best value..@@MattThePrintingNerd

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Than go with the BOM, all the changes on top that i've made on my printer are not worth the money. But dont expect print speed like 1300mm/s at 160k accel. The BOM is designed for 400mm/s at 100k.

[@nitronaf]

what hotend does he use?

[@shubhamgupta6984]

Spool Holder?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

That's something I hope the community will develop in the future, my focus lies on speed

[@markbreidenbaugh6033]

Maybe someone here can share some insights into the claims of flow rates from the companies that make hotends it seems that i have ti turn the heat up far past tye recommended temperature to to achieve anythibg even near what they claim. For example i have a pahetus dragon uhf hot end claims up to 70mm/s^3 flow. I have a cht melt zone extender which is better than what comes with it, a 0.5mm cht nozzle, i have a 70w heater cartridge, pt1000 sensor and all of that installed with slice engineering boron nitride. I have compared with and with out the boron nitride. At recomended temps 230c~ for pla i am getting 38-40 on my flow and if i turn it up to 260c-270c then i can hit close too 60 flow and fpr abs i have to turn it up too 300c to reach 60 flow. This is all installed on an flsun super racer with a custom hotend mount, haldis lgx lite extruder and a cpap remote setup for cooling.

[@markbreidenbaugh6033]

Also running klipper on this.

[@slonktonkster9680]

Are you familiar with VZBOT?

[@vankesselable]

How are there comms here from 6 months ago while this is live ???

[@SianaGearz]

I do wonder how Project Binky is getting along...

[@JZM006]

why not carbon rods?

[@Immolate62]

Matt is trying to keep his hotrod accessible to the masses, so his materials list focuses on economics. Right now, you can build one of these for a bit over $300. He's also working on a version that uses premium parts for marginal gains. I think his spend target on that is $500.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Also carbon fibre rods are way slower since they are not compatible to steel ball bearing bushings

[@kleber1983]

Is the video in real time?

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Yes it is

[@kleber1983]

hot damn!@@MattThePrintingNerd

[@fastslash25]

Your new hotend will beat the goliath?

[@colinfielder6695]

Where's the Benchy?

[@zlmitchell]

How loud is this printer? :D Working on sourcing the parts right now! Thanks! How loud is this printer? :D

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

Emm.. yeah.. it's on the louder side printing that fast, but if you reduce the speed by a bit you're able to run the cooling system at 50% which is a bit more silent than for the cooling system of a normal printer

[@t3chninja_official]

I really want to build this 3D printer but it claims it needs a bed larger than my 220x220 bed. Has anyone printed it on my size of bed?

[@andreyansimov_diy]

no way this robolama is real 600

[@nanobot5365]

for the algorithm

[@jrivera1]

WHERE CAN I BYE IT?

[@محمدحميد-م6و]

Can we use pet Filaments ? From water bottle recycling

[@yuoplan]

The guys from Russia are watching you. Good luck!

[@VladislavKurashov]

Bowden? No thanks.

[@MattThePrintingNerd]

For a fast printing machine it's mostly irelevant if you drive them as direct drive or as bowden. The faster you print the less time the printer has to create those bad sideeffects of a bowden setup. For example I use retractions of 0.4-0.7mm for my setup

[@astroplutonium]

This is a very disruptive project i would not be surpised if someone bought your product and removed it from the market. However good job :)