Process a Board with Machines | Flatten and Square Wood

Process a board with machines. Rob Cosman teaches you his method to flatten and square wood with machines.
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[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

If you liked this video check out our woodowrking machines playlist here: kzbin.info/aero/PLqUOljnY0d9cLQZ7igp6k1OT4SnAAB2qD

[@joelw6215]

I would give anything to spend a day with rob in his Shop. He is by far my favorite teacher. Thank you a million times for making videos.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You bet. Thanks for watching them

[@MrSharper802]

Take his class and you can spend 7 days with him

[@geoweb8246]

Joint one face, plane the other face next. This makes sense. If you go from jointing one face to jointing the edge, you only have a 50% chance of the grain running in the proper direction for jointing an edge. Simple, yet profound. Thanks Rob.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

It’s a method for efficiency, especially considering none of these are going to be my finished surfaces.

[@MrKrikkefy]

Even if this is something I do constantly, hearing you explaining it step by step is invaluable. It's the small tips and tricks that makes the difference. Thx Rob!

[@backcountrytourn5089]

By far the best woodworking channel on the web. I was LMAO when you said you didn't need the push sticks at the table saw and proper technique at the jointer, ALL of this while you have a giant band aide on your finger LOL.

[@somethingwittyhere]

Just got my jointer in today. Always making relevant videos right on time!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Great to hear!

[@carlwebinar1571]

Rob, I love your style of teaching. Your videos are really helpful. I'd love to work in your shop. And a special thanks to you for all the support you provide to veterans.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thnaks...Happy Veterans Day!

[@robertbamford8266]

Aha! Had to go back and rewatch your convex/concave comments when you went back to the jointer after jointing and thicknessing the board. You were referring to the shape of the edge since the faces are flat and parallel. Very useful tips. Both faces then one edge - with concave edge down!

[@williamshaffer2562]

Another informative tip Professor Cos. Semper Fi Brother.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Oh-Rah

[@couz10]

Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated

[@felipehuibonhoa7338]

Learned something again. From my jointer to the thickener then back to the jointer. Thank you Rob! 2 thumbs up! 👍

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Glad to help

[@watermain48]

Great lesson Rob, thanks for sharing.

[@ciptajatiabadichannel81]

Amazing...👍👍

[@joshuachambers4017]

This is very informative, though I'd really like to see Rob do this again, but with a much bigger and far more wonky cupped board. 🤔

[@kenstewart687]

Thank you for the video. Most of my work is with machines at age 75. I was amazed that I do things similar to the way you were doing them. Guess I have been watching the right person. 😃👍

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Thanks for watching!

[@Suicaedere666]

Very excited for this, I got into your channel for the hand tool stuff but I am a hybrid worker for the most part.. so thank you very much, very nice to see your process🙌🤘😄

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I am a hybrid woodworker too!

[@teamvtube]

Great video. My only suggestion would be to move the fence when jointing the edge grain so you don't have as much of the cutterhead exposed which reduces risk of significant injury if anything goes wrong.

[@nikoscuatro7251]

Can you beklieve that i have had about 4 woodwork teachers in my official courses and none has ever talk about the direction of the grain when processing the wood. And I can guess that they never has heard about that. It would be nice a good and clear video about the grain.

[@adrianburghelea9353]

Hi ! Your name I found in Romania. You have same relation with Romania ? You make great work !

[@Brough_builds]

Great video thanks and hope all are well or at least on the way to being well 🙏

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

We are in recovery

[@TheTranq]

Hi Rob, I usually put almost all the pressure on the outfeed side on the jointer but you said you do 50/50. What’s the reason for this? Thanks

[@brentfowler2317]

Rob, I know you wouldn't if I'm the only one that's interested in seeing it. But I was wondering if you would show how to joint a board on the tablesaw. Like you mentioned in you last video. About your 4 favorite (but i think It was actually 5. Lol) or have you by chance done a video on that subject? Lmk Thanks - Brent.

[@Exodus5K]

Rob, I've heard competing opinions about what kind of planer is best for hobbyist woodworkers. Some folks say that if you can afford a 15" (or even 20") floor model that it's a luxury worth having. Others say that the maintenance required for the floor machines is too much for a hobbyist and that you're better off just getting a top-of-the-line lunchbox planer. What's your opinion on the matter?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I would always take a full machine over a lunch box if I had the power, sand space. If either of those are an issue I would then consider a small planer. The maintenance is very minimal and similair on both styles so thats a wash (its blades, bearings and motors). The big machines definately do a better job (More powerful, much less vibration, usually bigger capacity). New ones are expensive but I prefer older ones ( 1980s of earlier) you can get them for pennies on the dollar

[@MMWoodworking]

If you are fine with spending the money, and don't have the space for a floor model, the DeWalt 735 with a Shelix is about the best you can get for the "portable" planers. It's about 100lbs, so it will still need a cart, but you can then put it out of the way when not using it. I love mine, even with the stock knives. I've never had an issue, and the upside is the knives seat themselves, so you don't have to spend time aligning them! If you have the space and money, floor models are great. I've used a few and yeah, they are awesome. But as a hobbyist, well, hobbyist who sells some work, I am very happy with my DeWalt 735. I wouldn't trade my smaller space for a floor model, if that makes sense.

[@lewisway6811]

Good video!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@vanshankguitars]

I remember eyeballing some 10 to 12 foot long boards sometimes snapping a chalkline on the more crooked ones and getting a decent edge on the tablesaw. It wasn't exactly the safest way to go but it was quicker when you needed the full length.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I hope you used sled to cut thestraight line.

[@bruinflight1]

For checks in the end of lumber, is there no way to fix them? Glue? etc

[@andabien3]

At 11 min., don't you have the work piece wedged between the saw blade and the fence, and doesn't that suggest kickback?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

No, I have total control of the board. Control prevents kickback

[@bobhiggins5773]

I agree that is a very bad practice, the wood being cut should only ever be against one fence, he says he has total control. If that board skewed even hall a millimeter and caught the blade its gone from your hand. In that scenario the fence should be behind the blade only for reference length and the wood should be clear of the fence before the blade starts to cut.

[@e.t.preppin7084]

Can you recommend a basic layout for a 30’x60’ shop. Tool placement basics similar to what you have. Thanks

[@cabinboi1511]

Ques: what is an optimal size for a work bench; my shop area is 11’x17’

[@thijspluis9998]

but if you put a lot of pressure on the board on the plainer, cant you exedentaly bow the board?

[@ekul42]

Is there any advantages on cutting the ends of the board off with your table saw rather then a chop saw?

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Accuracy

[@johncoops6897]

Yep - if you check carefully, a chop saw deflects in all sorts of different ways which can be amazingly inconsistent. Some of it comes from deflection of the mechanism itself, but I found another issue on one of mine... Recently I've spent many hours dialing in one of my small sliding chop saws, getting ready for some on-site use. Despite it being set up 100% perfect to 90° / 90° with my squares, it kept giving me odd results. Totally inconsistent, drove me CRAZY. Then I worked out that the milled/ground baseplate was not flat. There was a slight dip in the center (towards where the bolt goes) probably from stress on the casting, and one side of the round rotating part was about 0.5mm high of the infeed area. So depending on where you apply pressure to hold the work, it could skew slightly down and away from the blade. On longer stock it would span the problem at the beginning of the cut, then drop down as the cut progressed, causing a slight curve on one corner! The solution was to shim it with tape (up to 4 layers in some places), then add an MDF zero clearance "table overlay". Yet a sled on my table saw "just works" LOL

[@cerberus2881]

If you could only have one tool which would it be, thickness planer or jointer? I know you have more important things to do than satisfy this question!

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Planer....I can always joint by hand or table saw

[@nyanziuthuman9897]

Hi, Rob, I'm a Ugandan carpenter, I want to you please, I here by asking for your hand . Currently I'm now here in dubai

[@timmarsden9723]

2P10 will fix that check never see it after finishing

[@user-dy4xh8rf6w]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

👌👌👌👌

[@barryomahony4983]

I've been doing more and more joinery by hand, but I see no point in flattening and squaring boards by hand. Once you're done with the machines though, it's important to go over the faces with a hand plane. I can't believe how many finished pieces I see where you can see the scalloped pattern from the planer.

[@MrSharper802]

Don't discount hand tools before you go to the machines. A few well places scrub plane passes can save you several passes on the jointer and probably some board thickness. Same thing with using a handsaw to break down big boards. Can me much safer than the chop saw if the board has twist or internal stresses.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

Yup, the hand tool brings out the final touches really well

[@benjamin111084]

The point of flattening and squaring by hand is craftsmanship, joy, less lung damage, a beautiful soothing sound rather than ear damaging noise, and a great exercise

[@barryomahony4983]

@@MrSharper802 I agree on using the scrub plane at times, although as one gets adept with the jointer those occasions get less. I think the chop saw is fine although I've noticed I give it a lot much respect that many folks do. Many seem to use it very casually but it gives me the willies at times. I clamp down things more than most people and keep my hand well away from the line of fire. Still faster than using a hand saw.

[@jakeo2600]

Rob, you have an extremely bad habit of leaving the saw running while doing something else!

[@EverydayPeople744]

And be careful, in hospital right now with 2 fingers reattached from table saw accident.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

I am so sorry. Please buy a SawStop

[@AdamKirbyMusic]

Rob I love ya but your editing is atrocious. 😛. E.g. 0:09. You do this all the time lol, it's endearing in a weird way.

[@RobCosmanWoodworking]

You expect that we are prefessioanl video editors????