3D Printed Threads - Model Them in Fusion 360 | Practical Prints #2

[@irql2]

Who is downvoting these videos? Some bot maybe? Thanks for making these. I enjoy watching them and learning new things.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Mike! As always, I truly appreciate your support and kind words :)

[@xeraoh]

I saw another video (+10K view omg) where the uploader don't mention anything about the tolerance... maybe that guy :-) This video is perfect!

[@Ken-zg3ze]

I instantly upvote when I hear this guys voice on a F360 tutorial.

[@Linkman-fm2in]

@@Ken-zg3ze Yeah!

[@autorepairbymike1356]

They should hit the dislike button twice. That'll work out better for them.

[@avramgrossman827]

Kevin. I find your teaching style to be VERY EXCELLENT. As a new Fusion360 student and new to 3D designs, your explanations are very helpful. You are slow, articulate and demonstrate where to find the button clicks and methods clearly. I find just learning the steps and sequences difficult. I have problems learning how to undo mistakes...I think I get the timeline method to go back. I often have to hunt around to find what is needed next, but to be honest, watching your tutorials repeatedly helps to reinforce my own understanding of what, why and how. Thanks for producing a great series of shows.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

TIMESTAMPS 0:48 | Creating a new component 1:03 | Creating a cylinder 1:45 | Activating the thread command 2:36 | Making the thread modeled 3:00 | Adjusting the thread length 3:33 | Selecting the thread type 4:27 | Setting the Designation 5:36 | Defining the class (tolerances) 6:05 | Selecting the direction 6:20 | Remembering most recent threads 6:44 | Creating a nut 7:33 | Adding the internal threads 8:27 | The default clearance 8:47 | Copying and pasting the component 10:00 | Offset faces to create clearance 11:37 | Debossing text to label the clearance 12:05 | Creating the third copy 13:54 | Adding fillets to the thread edges 16:15 | 3D Printed test results

[@Jacob-ol3zb]

I'd consider myself to already be quite familiar with fusion. I still found your video tremendously helpful. I pulled this video up just to see if there even was a dedicated thread tool and I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted with a clear and descriptive tutorial. The advice you gave and the explanation for altering the tolerances will definitely save me some time. I also appreciate that you don't skip over anything. I've never seen the option you used to view a cross section and I'm glad I'm aware of it now. If I'm looking for more fusion tutorials, I will definitely come here. Thank you for such high quality content.

[@jmr]

This tutorial worked great but I can't believe I printed completely functional M2.6X0.45 threads on an Ender 3 V2 with 0.4 nozzle. Even the entry level machines are becoming so amazing!! Thanks to your tutorial I even got it on the first try!

[@brianwelch9299]

I've watched a few of your tutorials now and have picked up a number of things. You do a great job of illustrating a projects steps and capture a lot of the interface subtleties that I've struggled with as a novice. I have a suggested improvement to add to the printed thread. You video go me to the goal of figuring out the filets/offsets for my machine but even with the perfect fit initially getting the threads mated is problematic. I solved for this by adding a taper to the end of the threaded bolt end to trim away that initial thread. I do this by extruding a cylinder matching the bolt diameter and length and coinciding with the finished bolt. After I have that cylinder in place, I chamfer the end, on a m16 x 2.0 bolt, the chamfer is 1.5 horizontal and 2.0mm vertical. Next I do a Combine and select the intersect option. That effectively trims away that real sharp initial thread and now fitting it to a nut is easy. Without this fix I think many will continue to offset the threads to get easy insertion but maybe end up with a little wiggle in the fit. Again, thank you so much for your very well produce videos... you clearly have a gift for instructing. I'll be watching and learning.

[@jason-things_to_do]

This channel has the best content in the universe to learn Fusion 360

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Jason. Happy learning 😁

[@bruceogletree7995]

I'm not sure why, but I found that using the "Q" shortcut option (14.25) would not successfully perform the Offset Face command. When I selected Offset Face from the Modify dropdown in the Solid menu, it worked fine.

[@doc_d4566]

I just spent the last 2 hours following step by step through this video 100 times.. I was about to throw my monitor through the window. WTF? Can anyone explain this? When I selected that face and pressed Q, the distance is pre-populated with 16.00mm. And while you can change it by entering something different or by dragging the handle, it doesn't change the face. But as Bruce kindly noted if you choose "Offset Face" from the modify drop-down, the distance is populated with 0.00mm and you can then change it. I also noticed the dialog for the "Q" version of "OFFSET FACE" has an "Offset Type" input field, while the dialog for the modify menu drop-down version of "OFFSET FACE" does not. This is the kind of stuff that is maddening about Fusion 360. So much is contextual but it's documented NO WHERE. Lastly if you use the "Q" version, if you set the "Offset Type" to "New Offset" it does seem to work.

[@dnesfeder]

@@doc_d4566 Same thing. Almost down one MacBook. As you mention, going from the main menu or changing to "New Offset" makes it work. Glad I read the comments. Thanks!

[@charlesbrewer6552]

Thanks for this video, it is very timely for me. I have a project where I am printing working 3D threads and was looking to start experimenting with thread tollerances. Your video is perfect for me. Up until now I have been printing my prototype theads with a thicker wall and running metal tap and dies down them to size them correctly, This of course takes time although it does work well. It will be much more efficient to print them at the correct size from the start.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Charles! I do find that using Tap and Die sets work well in certain scenarios. For example, when one of the parts is not 3D printed I find it to be really helpful. But when both parts are 3D printed I've found this method does same quite a bit of time. Cheers, Kevin :)

[@spudnickuk]

This is a great video, wish i seen it a long time ago. Tip. If wanting to print fine threads then setup your printer to either a 0.2 or 0.1 Nozzle and Use PLA+ works well down to M6

[@johnhawkes7681]

Nice video. I found another way to create the required clearance is to use the scale command on the bolt (after the thread is added) in the 2 dimensions of the thread in your case X and Y by whatever value works, say 0.99 - don't scale in Z as that will effect the pitch. This has the advantage of maintaining the original thread profile - if the diameter is not ridiculously small - and doesn't require subsequent filleting but more importantly increases the flank to flank distance as well as reducing the two diameters. It is the flanks that rub against each other if clearance is not taken care of one way or another.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tips! Thanks for sharing, John :)

[@outsidebrendan]

Excellent video! I needed a refresher and this was extremely thorough.

[@wbplomp]

Kevin, again an excellent video. I just started with 3D printing and Fusion 360, and your videos helped me enormously getting familiar with Fusion 360. Thank you very much!

[@AMTheTinkerer]

Hi Kevin - I followed this tutorial and was able to create a threaded shaft and nut with M30 x 3.5 mm threads and printed them out. They worked very well on the first try! The reason I chose this thread size is an assembly I have has a 30mm shaft. When I tried to cut the threads into this assembly, the threads on the nut would not mesh with those on the shaft when viewed in the section analysis! I printed my component fully knowing that the threads won't mesh. And sure enough, they didn't. I'm flummoxed as to why I'm having this issue! The only two differences between my scene and this tutorial are one, the shaft in my assembly has been created by extruding a center-circle whilst in the video, a cylinder is used to create the shaft. And second, the nut in my assembly is a body within the same component whilst in the video it's a separate component. To confirm, I created a new component within my assembly and repeated the process outlined in this video and the threads in the shaft and nut meshed! Can you please let me know why this might be happening? thanks for such an excellent video! Agreeing with another viewers comment, I don't understand why someone would down thumb such excellent tutorials.

[@danbeare5263]

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a similar issue where the thread on the nut doesn't align with the thread of the bolt. Is my only option really to rotate one of the components? :(

[@AMTheTinkerer]

@@danbeare5263 I have to look at the design to see how I solved it.. will let you know

[@AMTheTinkerer]

I revisited the steps in the construction of the threaded subassembly and it's been a while. Therefore, to the best of my recollection and the steps followed, I have the same thread on a shaft that is divided by a collar. One side of the shaft is longer than the other. In my first effort, I modified the shaft to have the collar . And then I added the threads separately on each of the shafts separately. This obviously failed! In the second approach, I removed the collar, added the thread on the entire shaft first. I added the threads on the nut last. This approach fixed the problem.

[@ashleydavies282]

I've referred to a few of your videos now. They're really well made and crucially, your pace is spot on for me personally. I've been using Fusion for a while now and other CAD packages for a while longer but I always learn something new, even if it's just a keyboard shortcut (I love a keyboard shortcut).

[@airwavested]

Another great video Kevin. I found that it works out a little better if you split the tolerance addition between the nut and the bolt threads equally. I also found it useful to add a chamfer to both nut and bolt before adding the thread as it eases printing and threading them together when finished.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Amazing...great tips, Ted! Glad you shared these :)

[@terrychamulak3557]

@@ProductDesignOnline Really appreciate the extra effort to develop top-notch tutorials - thank you however had trouble successfully repeating the 0.15 m fillet added to the inside of the nut thread. Would get an error and a red highlighted line-segment as the thread intersected the nut face (either top/bottom). Considered maybe someone posted a comment on KZbin and then read's Ted recommendation. As it turns out adding a chamfer prior to threading the nut solved the fillet error issue I was having. Thanks folks!

[@davidfernandez2721]

Okay, There are few things more frustrating that trying to learn all the co-dependencies and intricacies of Fusion 360. Forget to check a box or choose an option and it is off to bang your head against the wall as hard as you can just so the pain stops when you quit banging your head against a wall. Your video is better than on-spot. I have viewed a nauseating amount of videos to create a working nut and bolt. By far, this video is more comprehensive than all I have viewed. Thank you for taking the time to explain the various tools to create threaded nut and threaded bolt . Then you go further to explain how to modify the threads surfaces to make a perfect fit. Fantastic video. Keep them coming.

[@martylinda5639]

My latest challenge was to make a garden hose thread for a special nozzle to be printed on Ender 3 v2. Fusion does not offer this thread, but Machinery's Handbook had the specs. Basically, the thread profile is the same as UNC. There is a UNC 1.06 - 12 thread (1 1/16) which I used. However, what I really needed was a 1.06 -11.5 . I then scaled the z axis only to 12/11.5 which stretches the thread to the proper TPI of 11.5. It worked well except the thread did not fit all hoses because of tolerance so I created clearance by scaling x&y by 1.03. In fact , this does alter the thread profile slightly but not enough to notice. Thanks for the videos

[@sledgeHammerRulez]

TIP: for people looking for the "paste new", it is not on a body but on a component level! This tip may safe you 15 minutes of your (design) life :p

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tip, sledgeHammerRulez! :)

[@kingofcastlechaos]

Thanks. Regarding samples- I always put a full length axial hole in samples and then keep them on a sample ring made of ball chain. The sample's movement can be checked without removing them from the ring this way.

[@Otaku437]

Thanks for the idea to fillet the threads to make them more robust. I also chamfer the bolt and nut openings a bit before applying the threads. It makes it easier to align the parts and begin the connection.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tip, Robert!

[@ceajay7613]

AWESOME - Just starting 3D printing and slowly learning Fusion 360 - You did a great job of teaching me how to create the threads for my small project - Good Job!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JustCuzRobotics]

I've had a lot of experience recently with printing threaded holes in plastic parts for use with standard metal fasteners in my combat robots. Personally I find it easy enough to secure a long enough machine screw in a printed hole with modeled threads even down to 8-32 (roughly M4 diam) threads printed on a Prusa Mk3S in Nylon. I was able to get this to work with the threads oriented both vertically and horizontally and even at arbitrary angles so long as the screw doesn't need to be removed and screwed in over and over, with no manually added clearance at all (though selecting a looser tolerance class helps). I also tried this with 6-32 screws but under load the screws pulled out too easily. I'm going to look into self-tapping screws in 3D printed non-threaded pilot holes next and see how they compare. I also tried threaded inserts but found that my parts would literally split in half along layer lines before the point where the threads stripped out and this remained true when threading directly into the plastic with 8-32 screws. I've also had this work with PETG and PLA though both of those have pitiful impact strength compared to Nylon which is my primary concern. Also when printing smaller threads you definitely wanna set your vertical resolution no greater than 0.2mm, and I often use 0.15mm.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great stuff, Team Just 'Cuz Robotics! Thanks for sharing all of this. I've printed lots of things in Nylon, but haven't done much in the realm of screws. I'll have to give that a go. I've also experimented with threaded inserts. They work well but can be a pain to get them to work on many accounts within the same object. I may make a video on that topic for the series. Thanks again!! Cheers, Kevin :)

[@andrewbrown8148]

This is a great video for the project I'm working on~! I'm trying to make a 4" threaded flange as a dust collection port for the cabinet of my disc/belt sander combo. I've searched for a 3D printed example, but found nothing, so I'm giving it a go. This video should work great in supporting my attempt at a threaded adapter. Very clear & concise instruction for a pretty intricate operation. Not sure that I'd ever by able to do this in SketchUp. Thanks much~!!

[@DiiaaamoondsLair]

I never really sat down and watched any videos on fusion 360 and rather fiddled on my own, but I learned a lot from this video. Thanks a bunch, I'm making a large thread for mounting a chuck on.

[@alexeyisme]

I'm new to 3d modeling. This video helped me to bring idea to life. Thanks a lot.

[@cigaro_kaz5401]

Excellent video, very well explained. Learned alot. Thank you much!

[@ArenINMotion]

Great explanation. I.m learning Fusion 360 and this is the only video I found that gives me a solution for making threads on my Ender 3. Finally I have a bolt and nut that works. Thank you 👍

[@serenelychaotic]

Thank you. Your videos have been invaluable to this disabled inventor.🛠️♥️

[@keithsimpson8612]

Found these videos by accident and they are so informative. I am working through them one by and learning so much. I always thought Fusion 360 was hard but now it seems easy to create models. Thanks

[@alana314]

Super helpful video, thank you. I used this to successfully make a plastic female 1/4-20 camera mount for a metal tripod mount. The plastic needed thick walls to hold it in place. I think it may help to try screwing the metal bolt in right after printing while the plastic is still warm and pliable.

[@daveoutlaw9890]

❤ this is one of your most useful tutorials .. I have used the screw and internal threads several times to avoid Gluing parts together . Not sure how to share a picture of my project but it may help others see how to use this in theirs Kind regards Dave Outlaw

[@davidviau2522]

Keep coming back to this video, amazing tutorial and well constructed! Well done mate

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks for your support!

[@erikahammer4337]

I really appreciate your videos. You're video on a beginner project, just n making a stamp, equipped me with the knowledge I needed to make a rough design of a roller skate wheel, and this threading video is going to help me finish designing the mold template.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Erika! Would love to see some of your projects if you're open to sharing them in the free PDO Community space - community.productdesignonline.com/

[@trumpatier]

Wow, I learned so much about Fusion from this video! Including what I was looking for! Very well-made video, thanks a bunch. Earned my sub!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks for watching :)

[@13osco]

I often struggle with threads, and now that i come to see your offset solution.. it seems so obvious.. Thanks, much appreciated.

[@slowride4511]

Thank you for leaving these posted. They are easy to follow. Thank you!

[@claudiralle]

Thanks to Kevin and a practical report to this tutorial: On my Prusa MK3S printed threads fits together perfectly if you reduce and round ONLY the external thread by 0.1 mm. If you reduce the external AND the internal thread, the connection becomes too loose.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Sweet - Thanks for sharing your results, Ralle! There are lots with the Prusa printer...so I'm sure this will be useful to others :)

[@divencia]

As always EXCELLENT, the best tutorials with the best quality

[@JoseArevalo-Fester]

Thanks Kevin... this is the best tutorial. You are a good teacher.

[@tcratius1748]

You are the best, I was just thinking, "I hope Kevin Kennedy does a printable thread in Fusion", and "Bam!", yes you do. :)

[@Platttraining]

Outstanding video and I will get a lot of use of this, especially for the 3D printed thread on a writing pen design I am working on. I really appreciate your quality, concise instruction and the application in using a 3D printer.

[@RichieVos]

The Modeled ✅ was my problem. Thanks for the quick to follow guide!

[@kingofbingus468]

This guy has balls for asking people to dislike, other people need to learn from this.

[@davidedwards4125]

Just found this and its perfect, no nonsense and exactly what I need. Thanks.

[@girlmastergeneral]

Another amazing video. I get better everyday watching these!

[@odw32]

Maybe this helps someone: At 14:27 I couldn't get this offset operation to work, until I changed Offset Type from "Automatic" to "New Offset".

[@jhtar]

Thank you, I had this exact same problem.

[@partonprints]

I would like to see how to design organic 3D printed models. We do a lot of functional prints, but I think something like organic, maybe even sculpted would be fun tutorial.

[@G0ldbl4e]

I would suggest looking up some Blender modelling tutorials for something like that

[@bennylloyd-willner9667]

@@G0ldbl4e Good idea IMO. Every tool has its perks depending on what we're aiming for, and Blender is better at that than parametric software. I'm sure it can be done, as well as it is possible to do some parametric stuff in Blender (with add-ons), but the best way is probably Blender for organic stuff and Fusion 360 for precision parametric design.

[@gstrickland560]

You're my go to when it comes to Fusion 360 design for 3D printers. I'm currently having a problem where orientation matters. For example a bolt that when screwed all the way in has one face of the bolt pointing in a specific direction. My first attempt has it 30 degrees off, but it seems that fusion 360 determines where to start the threads and doesn't allow you to change them. When I try to duplicate your steps in this video the threads in the two components don't line up like they do in yours. I believe that's my underlying problem.

[@gstrickland560]

Figured it out. I had to grab the object after I added the threads and rotate it until the threads lined up, then I could orient the features that are direction dependent. Wish that was all in the thread tool.

[@patrickrichard2106]

Very well presented; it helped me fix a nagging problem. Thanks a bunch!

[@Jimgoodwin846]

Excellent video. I’m a newb at fusion 360 you’re a very good instructor. Thanks 😊

[@EEtransmit]

Perfect! Little tip: buy yourself a Spacemouse! Perfect for demonstration as the al the movements are much smoother! I’ll make a donation to help you out.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Hi, EEtransmit. I actually have one and use one in my regular work. I originally didn't use it for the tutorials because too many people where commenting on how I was moving smoothly and how I didn't show them what i was doing, etc instead of the content of the tutorial... :') Maybe I'll start using it in the tutorials. Cheers, Kevin :)

[@SharkyMoto]

@@ProductDesignOnline can you make a tutorial on how to actually use one / show how its used and its benefits? i'm planning to buy an inexpensive one, but i have no idea what it benefits me and so on

[@dadevilshalllive]

wow, this is a really good tutorial. i have been following along with your Learn Fusion 360 in 30 Days. Still have a long way to go. i have one challenge. say i created a shape or model i need to print but decided to create a negative model so that i can use as a mould for other materials. do you happen to have tutorial for that? do i need to create from scratch or the software can automatically create it? and once created, is it possible to break the model (mould) into sections? looking forward to hear from you soon and keep up with the excellent tutorial videos, cheers!

[@TBevins]

I'm a mill guy and I recently started playing w printers, GREAT vid! Thanks!!

[@rapiddescent]

Thanks as always Kevin! Would love to see your take on cam style clamps, they have a multitude of uses from securing lids to making clips for bags.

[@maximthemagnificent]

Was making some custom filters for my paint respirator and your video enabled me to get the threaded caps to work on the first try! Would've had to experiment to get a proper fit otherwise, I'm sure. Thanks.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Maximilian! Cheers :)

[@erikm9768]

I would be very interested in learning how to create things like snap-ins and similar techniques for reducing number of screws required for assembling printed components.

[@fe4rurdaddy446]

Oh my gosh it is sooooo much better, recently made a mount for my heat gun with snap in parts. Holds very well and was much much easier overall to create with snap ins.

[@drifterz28]

Thanks! I would love to see videos on snap fittings

[@gabrielfuchs9323]

I have been searching so long for this information! Great video!

[@ahmetonur]

First of all, thank you very muchfor this useful and instructive content. Even though I couldn't get the exact result I wanted in my first print, I got the result I wanted by changing the offset settings. Then I made a sketch for the M8 and printed it and the result is still excellent. I had downloaded Fusion 360 before, but I had never used it. Thanks to this content, I both made an introduction to the use of Fusion 360 and learned to draw the part I wanted. Thanks again.

[@williamdelahunty3677]

I knew I didnt have a calibration issue. Thank you so much for this information

[@haavard812]

Awesome video and spot for solving my issues! All my thumbs up! 🤗

[@dfontanesi]

I wish you would have made this one earlier :). I created a lamp in two pieces that screw together and I had to do all of this thru trial and error. Your video would have made that a lot easier. Thanks for these great videos.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Dan!

[@andall4286]

Excellent tute, except for the 'ANTI-Clockwise' comment :) Not even sure how you learned that phrase but it is traditionally COUNTER clockwise. Interestingly, you CAN interpret 'anti' to mean 'the opposite' which fits perfectly for your explanation. You taught me Two things today!

[@Daekar3]

Everyone in Britain says anti-clockwise.

[@Somun-a]

10:40 Adding the clearance to the nut would be a better choice as the male thread is weakened and gets sharp corners as you can see.

[@omar10wahab]

Did you watch the whole video? He literally goes over that and mentions his he was going to go over that at the beginning of the video

[@edmarfilho2000]

Great video. You are helping me a lot. I didn't get if you made the 0.1mm offset in each face of the screw, or in the screw and in the nuts.

[@FelixWimmer-ph2bc]

Thanks for the great tutorial. I got stuck when I want to offset the face of the thread wtih the fillet. I cant offset it by -.1mm, I get a warning that the cylinder has a problem with that... Do you have an idea what Im doing wrong?

[@pavtha]

I had the same problem..when doing the offset, change the "offset type" from "automatic" to "new offset" and then type the distance of -0.1mm. Worked for me

[@scornex]

Thank you Kevin for this tutorial..my attempt to print threads ended up like first example. So this will helps me a lot👍

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Ivan! Glad to hear you'll make use of this :)

[@No-ub5ju]

wow, thanks alot. super well detailed and no time wasting either

[@michaelandrews4783]

Top notch explaining the modeled option

[@johanvanhaarlem1332]

Indeed great solution! I did also an offset from outside and inside diameter face.

[@BillDreisbach]

This was great! Exactly what I was looking for - plus good tutorial on basic Fusion functions. Thanks!

[@ericwilbanks4746]

Thanks for the tutorial, it was helpful in the project I was working on.

[@blabistour]

Hi Kevin - Thanks for your excellent content! I am drafting a threaded component for a project that requires an M12 bolt and nut with a pitch of 1.75 mm. I followed along through this tutorial and need help with the fillet on the edge of the threads. Do you have any recommended tolerance settings for this size thread and pitch?

[@mechsparks]

Wonderful series.....Please video on plastic joint

[@s.sradon9782]

tip: if printing a bolt it might be a good idea to remove the threading from the fastener where they will not be engaged to save on print time and increase the effective strength of the part by effectively turning it into a threaded pin.

[@DavidKaden369]

From my XP the offset depends on a lot of factors, like: Layer hight, material, diameter of thread etc. There is no way you can 100%ly do this without trying. Example: ABS parts need more offset then PLA. Huge Diameters need more offset then small diameters, 0.1 layer hight needs less offset then 0.3 layer hight. Then if you want to mix materials like SLS Nylon with FDM ABS you also need to make some studies. Most of the time I was printing things twice because they were to tight. But I almost never had something to come out to lose. So you always can apply an offset of 0.1 or so. Also keep in mind that you settings will NOT be interchangeable with same kind printers or your slicer programs because of slightly different settings. You will always have to make studies first. :)

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Very true! Testing (a small print) is always the way to go :)

[@funkynerd_com]

Thank you! Again! I was really stuck trying to figure out clearances on my first 3D printed threads and yet again, you've given me the info I needed to get it done.

[@MultiLoganM]

This video was a ton of help. I was previously just trying to scale the female component up in size.

[@SilIyBurger]

Thank you for explaining this thoroughly!

[@grayham6998]

Thank you. Had this problem today trying to make a simple holder for a variable beam splitter. Just a simple spindle and locking nut. I have an SLA printer as well but this was still a problem. I never had any problems with the FDM but I think Autodesk made some changes to the tolerances in one of the updates. Anyway, really useful. Thank you

[@Archnemesis88]

Wow, learned so much from this video! I used to think I was pretty good with Fusion360, look forward to seeing more of your videos!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Michael! Glad to hear you're learning a lot. Cheers! :)

[@Steel_Revenant]

Loving your content. One thing I'd ask is can you explain the shortcuts used a bit more. Being brand new, I struggled understanding the text command part of the video.

[@OneMHz]

Same here - maybe I'm trying to skip ahead a bit, but I'm guessing there are some keyboard shortcuts that aren't being mentioned out loud. I can't figure out how he does the move after placing the text.

[@truegret7778]

One 3D printing workflow I struggle with sometimes, is trying to build support structures into a complex Fusion 360 part design. Generally, I can manipulate a model in a slicer and leverage the use of supports (typically tree supports), especially now that the more popular slicers (Cura 5.3.0, Prusa 2.6.0-alpha) support paint-on supports or custom tree supports. I would like to figure out a way to include in the F360 design ways to add break-away supports that I can't generate with the slicers.

[@stephandevriesere3667]

This has been a great help for me. I always struggled with bolds and nuts, they just never seem to work. Now i know why lol. Thank you for this tutorial, very helpful.

[@toddcoello6461]

I can't wait to get home and try this. But I have issues following your steps for some reason I don't always see the same options. I'm going to think about what a good project would be. You're awesome. I try I can't waite to get better with this program

[@ProductDesignOnline]

What options are you not seeing? I'm on the latest version of the Personal Use license (2.0.7046 Active Plan: Fusion 360, Personal) Cheers, Kevin :)

[@ronsone8373]

Printed an working m6 nut and bolt using this tutorial thanks! I am still amazed what you can do with a 3d printer

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Nice work! :)

[@Juiblex]

Nice tutorial. By the way can you give information about the experimental slice tolerance option in Cura? Does it work?

[@preludecurtis]

Great resource! I've been beating my head against the wall with threads all weekend and one video answered all my questions! Subscribing! Thanks.

[@TheosResearchDiary]

I come back to the video and again and again. Thanks Kevin! #evergreen

[@FuriousImp]

Fantastic channel, great quality, on all levels. Crazy how your channel only has just under 100k subs.

[@M00000oooo00000]

when making circular fittings i always try to use the revolve function on a sketch of its cross section. in this way you can quickly create pretty complicated fittings.

[@andrebecker7350]

What a kick-ass tutorial, thank you so much.

[@bennylloyd-willner9667]

Great video! I do think (with my nit-picking grumpyness😂) that the sound seems a bit overcompressed/filtered. To me, it sounds like you have recorded in a slightly noisy environment and turned the noise reduction a tad too high in post? It's no biggie, but more a friendly question/suggestion that you check audio quality to produce even better videos.

[@tianmarin-83]

You fix a problem I didn't know I had. Thank you!!

[@milehighslacker4196]

Thanks for this wonderfully informative video! I think I followed it all, and if I did - is it fair to say that the Nut stamped -0.1 is identical to the original Nut (the one with no stamp at all)? I didn't see any modification to the second Nut. Did I miss part of the video?

[@porthospatel1683]

well, I'm creating rings (jewlery) and it's hard for me to make intricate designs (like an animal ring, or one with a tree like mesh). If you could show how you make an intricate ring, it would help a lot. Love your content btw

[@MrDeluche]

My hands were bleeding today from a screw I designed in fusion. Thanks for the video, this makes my life a lot easier

[@indyspud]

This is a really informative video, thank you. I'm having a problem applying the fillet to the edge of the bolt thread. I can do both to 0.9 but it still gives a slight flat edge, not a complete round-over. The second I try 0.1 I get an error, and it does it with anything larger than 0.92 as well. I can't do it at all with the internal nut thread, I get an error with anything greater than 0.0. What can I do to achieve the complete roll-over? My experiment is using an M20x2.0, so while the overall radius of the test is larger the thread pitch is identical to the example. edit: managed to achieve a similar result by doing a "full round fillet" and selecting the two other faces of the threads to form the roundover between. Now to print and see how it goes.

[@Kek5kopF]

Thank you so much! The solution to increase the thread gap is so simple but I didn't get to it on my own.