Does Liqui Moly CeraTec work? Let's find out!

[@fatdad64able]

I used to have to add oil every two weeks. Since I use ceratec, I add oil only every 14 days. Sometimes even only about twice a month

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@torrickhan9965]

Lokl,,🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@tnargskoorb1]

Ha ha now that’s some serious science.

[@amarauzirul7152]

Lol!

[@bigcheese781]

That sounds reasonable and about normal if you are talking about an AN2 Engine. Otherwise you should pick up some man-points and common sense and repair that engine.

[@rubencasas2413]

This guy is underrated and extremely practical/professional

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@spacepope-1]

So much underrated anymore with over 1 million subscribers 👍

[@dawidwojtaldw]

Yes hi is full time professional man!

[@mrincredible5492]

Right i watch him on my daily$hit or $hits some days normally finish watching after im done

[@reesespieces305]

@@ProjectFarm can i pour the whole ceratec into the engine oil after i change it

[@mengel420]

No one comes close to project farms videos, professionally made in the comfort of his own garage and property - no sponsors, no bs. Best testing on the web, bar-none! Thank you for your attention to detail!

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow, thank you!

[@superandresr]

Definitely ageed!!

[@wildfirewoodandmetalworx2409]

💯👍🏻👍🏻

[@Leo-fk9ch]

Heavy equipment owner operator with 32 machines in use daily, plus two Kenworths that pull 80,000 loads weekly. I have two full time mechanics, they both do all maintenance and overhauls. I’ve been extremely vigil about oil, using the best possible for extremely harsh operating environments. Five years ago we switched to Liqui Moly after years of using another highly recommended friction modifier. The real proof is when one of my diesels is overhauled, old bearing surfaces scrutinized and compared to industry averages. Using the Liquid Moly has given my equipment decent results. Mostly in camshaft and main bearing wear. We just finished overhauling the engine in the Kenworth, a T680 with the Cummins 650 horsepower power plant. 690,000 miles of extreme duty, used to pull our heaviest excavators and dozers. The camshaft and bearing wear were just under 50% of normal, pretty impressive. For light duty, cars and small pickups, I’d think it would yield as good if not better results.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@rfgon3727]

Did you use Ceratec?

[@wisenber]

After buying Liqui Moly CeraTec, I noticed an immediate difference in my bank account.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@rajrammbbs]

Lost more money?

[@wisenber]

@@rajrammbbs It certainly didn't go up.

[@Thunderstormworld]

🤣

[@chijen2010]

You must have a $40 or less bank account.

[@syedabbasshah6544]

You are still replying to almost every comment. After all these years. KZbin fame hasn't gotten up to you! You are a good man and i wish i could buy you a drink some day. Thank you for every single video you ever posted. I mean it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much

[@Adventure338]

I double that

[@md-run]

100% agree

[@syedabbasshah6544]

@Grizzly He seems too nice to be interested in those.

[@NL-fe4le]

She would probably just buy him a drink too.

[@dzlnitro]

My e39 M5 burned about 1 quart of oil every 750-1000 miles. I've been using Ceratec between oil changes and I made it to about 3400 miles before needing to add a quart. It's been beneficial in my use.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@TheWolfiet]

@You Wish sounds about right, but I guess that could still be cheaper than a headgasket repair or worse.

[@nickoD509]

@You Wish When I was an Autotech I used to say pay now or pay me later. Wind up paying more when you add up all of the bottles you bought plus actually fixing the problem. But it is handy if you cant afford to fix it first.

[@pbarangu]

@theunluckyscav Do you have a 2000 m5? I have a 2000 and she burns a LOT of oil. Now my next few statements is assuming you're not leaking any oil and you don't have any oil circulation problems (you must rule those out first). If you were lucky it's just the valve stem seals that are leaking and you must remove the vanos and the cams to get to them. A VERY expensive job. But usually nothing short of a full rebuild will solve this problem, so you may as well keep driving her. M-series cars have a maximum permissible consumption of about 1.5 quarts per 1000km. If this stuff helps, you might as well keep using it, since the 10w-60 the s62 requires can be very costly.

[@evolveautodetail6057]

@@pbarangu Why did you say "If you were lucky it's just the valve stem seals that are leaking..." That's the most difficult and expensive job hahaha

[@nigelbarratt6825]

I have been using this stuff for years, and without doubt I'd say it is the best you can buy. I'm 71 and have been fixing cars and using additives for over 50 years so I've tried most of them. I have a 2007 Audi A6 2.0 TDi which I bought in 2009 and has now done 322,000 miles on the original engine with no problems or major engine repairs, oil changes around every 18,000 miles and a can of this stuff at every change. It still sounds as sweet and smooth as the day I bought it with 17,000 miles on it. I also have a 2019 A6 Avant 40TDi, bought last October. It ran really well, but I added a can of Ceratec and the miles per gallon has increased noticeably now it's had the required few hundred miles to work-in, plus it's even quieter than before. I have several friends who have used it and every one of them is amazed at the difference in the way their cars run. I'll never run an engine without it in.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@rfgon3727]

which was the best of them?

[@nigelbarratt6825]

@@rfgon3727 Which was the best of what?

[@rfgon3727]

@@nigelbarratt6825 the best additive...

[@AdamsDuhStuff]

@@nigelbarratt6825 which was the best additive. You said you have tried most of them.

[@gonzalotapia1250]

IDK, but applied it to my 2010's 200k km corolla (120k miles) and the change is astounding. Engine vibrates so much less, it delivers smooth power, accelerates faster. It feels like the engine rejuvenated at least 10 years. It didn't affected fuel consumption (at least measurably), but the car feels so much smoother now. Effect isn't immediate. It took almost a week (100 miles) to get to current state. The restoration in power is measurable because now it don't have to downshift in uphill while cruise control is on, on light hills. Before, even the minimum hill made the car to downshift and jerk violently.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@GreatScottByJoe]

​@ProjectFarm hi guys does this help with the fuel injectors also?

[@KubiIay]

⁠@@GreatScottByJoeNo, your fuel injector is part of your fuel system. This is added to your oil (system), which is separate. Liqui Moly does have injector/fuel system cleaners though.

[@micahrobles5210]

I would like to see a "Leader Board" for fuel and oil additives similar to how Top Gear had for their celebrity lap times. This would help viewers understand where other products compare to the current video test.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the recommendation!

[@GabrielKish]

What a great idea!

[@nikhillobo8137]

Good idea

[@kaipos8601]

Additives are designed to do different things. This guy is only measuring the same things on every additive and not tailoring his tests for what the additives claim. Most additives don't claim to improve lubricity, however, this guy uses an ancient lubricity testing rig to test for it on every additive... doesn't really make sense... I mean all you have to do is find a product with lubricity improver (likely a diesel additive,) and you win that no problem and all you boneheads would be super impressed...

[@shaegrover9516]

I’m currently waiting until someone watches all his videos and creates a spreadsheet. Let’s you look up bearing grease and engine oil all on one page for one shopping list.

[@Traderjoe]

Really, nobody does testing any better than this channel!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@magnificentshine1]

traderjoes agreed!

[@Sanwizard1]

Totally agree. You rock dude! You give consumer reports a run for the money. I would pay for your results.

[@vinicius18103]

This is over 4 years later. I use this product in my 2020 Ford Ka/Figo. It has a 3 cyl. engine and the reduction of the noise was significant. I approve this product IMO.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@srhatfield]

This is over 3 years later, and something that I found out is that the gen 3 Coyote engines in 2018 and newer Mustang GTs have a "typewriter tick" problem from the factory, which drives people a little nutso... and adding a quart of CeraTec during an oil change actually makes this go away! So there's at least one good use for this stuff 🙂

[@madsupervilian.]

thats what I'm hearing

[@michaelfernandez7698]

I did same thing you are right it absolutely works so much better

[@anttiruo]

@@michaelfernandez7698 Try Xado, RVS, Suprotec Atomium, Ceramizer or RESURS next time for more permanent results. Those are European products based on the same Soviet invention. Cera Tec was actually develop because of the success of those products, but it's not as good and wears off twice as fast. This test wasn't properly done as the treatment takes 5000 km to complete (1500 km with the products I mentioned).

[@kirkstiefel2102]

I use CeraTec 3 times on Jeep GC WK 4.7. 25k total miles worth. Started at 80k. Every other oil change or so. The engine now has 105k & product currently in the oil. It does quiet cold start piston slap. Also stops slap noise much faster than without CeraTec...always long before the engine totally warms up. Matter of seconds vs 1-2 minutes without. Reports suggest it takes about 5,000 plus miles to work in an auto engine. That's about 150 plus hours run time for most. Requires metal-to-metal contact to burnish into metal surfaces over time. Oil prevents 'most' contact. He ran the mower only 5 hours. Amazon users claim glass-like coating on engine parts upon inspection. Hard to know for sure without more tests and proof.

[@Jizzzmani]

I started using it also in my s197 Way quieter

[@MikesGearGarage]

Love how you're actually using proper testing/scientific methodology to test. Well done.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@jusb1066]

wow , a great deal of time and effort goes to making these, thank you!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

You do your homework, all right!

[@russdavis1960]

Joe T getdrawings.com/cute-giraffe-drawing#cute-giraffe-drawing-62.jpg

[@garyclagett1848]

I just love your machine and product trials. Very comprehensive,thorough, and fair. Thanks😊

[@El_Chompo]

I know he has the time to sit there and run 5 tanks of gas through his lawn mower. Plus all the setting up and filming and editing. It must take a day or two to make a video like this. So nice to see such well made content on here.

[@matreyia]

When I used this the first time, I literally noticed immediate reduction of noise and increase in mpg as well as restored power. It was very unexpected. So I used this on every single car I work on and it is the same each time. Even clients notice and comment. So yeah, this works in my personal experience.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@bogeydope3022]

I think it depends on the engine it's used in and for sure the oil. I made better experiences with Mobil1 NewLife 0W40 and ceratec compared to some castrol variants in 10w40. It also seems to have an impact on coated surfaces on silica base, like Audi used in it's VR6 engines. On plane metal surfaces combined with a good synthetic oil like 0w40 i would recommend it anytime though.

[@kevinobrien9271]

I had the same, unexpected results in my 2016 Honda Accord with 30,000 miles. It has more pep, feels smoother, and is noticeably quieter at idle. I am very happy with Ceratec. It’s supposed to last up to 30,000 miles, but I think I’ll use it again at 45,000.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

@@bogeydope3022 oh on that Audi I'm sure he wouldnt have to worry about the engine wearing out, with all the plastic engine components they use something else is going to break first.

[@TheDieselbutterfly]

Judging by your name you are a liar or deceived or both

[@edmarkham2632]

I believe you have come up with the best type of non bias lubrication tester. Those who intervene during the test or touch the equipment during the test are affecting the results. Keep up the honest evaluation of products. Thank you.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@ABaumstumpf]

It is far from the best and far from real usecases - but it is very consistent which still makes the results comparable and useful.

[@Golgi-Gyges]

I concur. Don't ruin what you've built by giving out biased grades. Stay true to what got you your reputation.

[@puffnstuff12]

1% is well within the margin of error as there could actually be several mitigating factors and I wouldn't give credit to the product for it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point.

[@salsamorim]

The Expanse Fan and if you check a lubricity test, the ceratec only make things worse.

[@OlivierCaron]

Agreed; for example if the engine was warmer when it started with the Liqui Moly it could make a small difference like the one we're seeing here.

[@DuBstep115]

If the test was done 100 times and amount of fuel was added with pipette for that 0,0001% accuracy then i would belive 1% instead of margin error

[@Taydrum]

@@DuBstep115 fuel should be tested by MASS, volume changes incredibly with temperature. pipette-ing super accurate volumes would be inaccurate given fluctuations in temperature

[@briand.1694]

I have to admit, I truly appreciate that you FF through the more mundane parts of the video as to get to the key points of your tests. Great video as always. . .

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@Iwo26]

I have Bmw 535i (6cyl turbo engine) with 67K miles. I recently added Ceratec with my oil change and the engine got definitely more quiet. Especially at the start I can hear a big difference. Caratec might not be a world changing product, but it definitely works.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@walkawayjoe]

I have used this stuff for a few years and all I can say is it made a great difference in my 2013 honda accord. It's one of those earthdream 4 bangers with direct injection that are noisy as crap and vibrate alot. Definitely not the great honda engines I used to drive from the 80's and 90's. Although they feel like they make about 50% more hp now. I think they should be a little better on fuel than they are. The old Hondas got way better mileage. Like 40 around town. The first time I used this Ceratec stuff it immediately quited down the noisy valve train that always rattles on start up and mpg's went up to 27 from a little over 21 . That is around town mpg daily driven same route everyday to work and back so that has made for a pretty good test. I was shocked by the improvement. Seemed to improve more with every tank of fuel til it got to 27 mpg avg. It rarely see's any hwy miles ever. That's been my experience so thought I would share. I just came across this video and never saw any test on it before. Not much of a youtuber , guess I need to check out all your other stuff

[@ProjectFarm]

Great feedback. Thank you

[@ioanalexandrugabriel2199]

Great video! I have tested this product on my European car, a German made. I immediately saw an improvement. The engine was running more smoothly and the vibrations were reduced on higher rpms. It became my favorite additive and I am recommending this to all my friends. The cost of a bottle is pretty small and it worth trying it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting on this. Glad it's delivering great results.

[@Limou551]

I had a guy that said the engine didnt revolution so fast, but i discoverred later that he did put too much moly in it. Thas like everything , it has a quantity to use, in doubt always but a little less.My advise.

[@225supersix1977]

I have a classic American muscle car, a big boat V8 ... will it work?

[@v12-s65]

@@225supersix1977 pretty sure... but don't pour to much. Less is more

[@seeya205]

The cost is expensive, but it does seem to make it run smoother. In Canada, it's $40 for a 300ml bottle.

[@mpal2691]

I've used this product in my 2013 Infiniti g37 after 20K miles on the engine. I noticed about a 5.4% increase in fuel mileage. I was getting an average of 21.1 MPG in mixed driving and after using ...2 months I noticed I was getting 22.3 MPG....I was still getting the same mileage when I changed oil at 50K and added more. I just changed at 88k and was still getting the same MPG. I plan on adding more at around 94-95K on my next oil change. I use 5-30 full synthetic oil. This is based on the digital MPG indicator. I will reset just to make sure that the mileage is the same. Thank you for your review.

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive results! Thank you

[@JohnSmith-fe7nf]

After using this product for 9 months, my blood pressure is back to normal. Thanks

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@junior88fan64]

Hahahahahahahahahaha. Did you add .001 % in drinks to move blood pres down? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@danweecc]

Here's an idea for testing: Car Ceramic coatings - we see a lot of claims made for different types of coatings for cars. I think that would be something a lot of people would be interested in.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@sharms888]

I don't think it will make his lawnmower more efficient.

[@danweecc]

@@sharms888 It could make it look shinier.

[@benniethejew]

@@sharms888 perhaps if used under deck? on the blade lol ?

[@2jimmycrackcorn]

Daniel Wee Apex detail is a good source for that. Paint coatings are finicky. Lots of small variables should be worked at carefully because one small issue or mistake can cause a premature failure and make the coating look like it doesn’t work due to user error.

[@FntX-Video]

Long term tester here with a 2009 1-series bmw diesel (118d) I was testing it years ago and it really improved not only the overall engine acoustics but also the smoothness. I then ditched it after doing two changes after each 10.000km because I've noticed residues coming through the cyclones, and almost immediately the engine began to run very rough. I began to blame the oil but I was sure enough that the strange stuff coming out of the crankshaft ventilation behind the oil separators was a leftover of ceratec. 10.000 km later I switched back to my favorite brand of oil but to no avail. Next up I've re-introduced CeraTec and bam - everything was smooth again. Just from the feel of it it is an improvement but I never compared how much more fuel efficient the engine is. I'm just looking at the shift knob rocking around like crazy without it and resting still when this product is on duty. After accumulating a total of 200.000km with ceratec there's no issue so far. The camshaft and head looks clean so there is no buildup of the stuff either. So my conclusion is it leads to a much smoother running engine at least.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@arbrimehdija5821]

Sorry for the late reply. Are you still using this product? I am planning on using it on my Cdi Mercedes and I am a little bit sceptic how the turbo will react (mine is at 231k km now). Do you recommend it?

[@FntX-Video]

@@arbrimehdija5821 If your turbo is that old it might fail at some point in time and ceratec won't increase the likelyhood anyways. I'm now at 360.000KM and ever since used ceratec on any oil change so far. Last turbo which was the factory one failed at me at 240k. It still runs buttery smooth but i noticed an increase in oil vapor coming out of the crankshaft ventilation. I guess this is due to the fact that the oil is hitchhiking the ceramic particles which makes it easier for it to climb up the ventilation path through the cyclone. The loss however is nowhere near the amount which is communicated by BMW. After 10.000Km only 100-200mil are missing. BMW says it might be even 100mil per 1000km.

[@Alexander_l322]

@@FntX-Video hi is your timing chain ok? Could you hear any noises from the back of the engine like a rattle and with the ceratec the noise was quieter or still the same? Thanks

[@FntX-Video]

@@Alexander_l322 I'm now at 360.000KM and still no (abnormal) noises from the chain. On top of that you can't fix the chain issues with oil or additives - you can only extend the lifetime of the guides, chain and tensioner when issues are not yet serious. If your chain does the famous rattling noises, it's doomed regardless.

[@mr.sophistication3232]

In the multiple engines I’ve used it in the the difference in noise and smoothness is immediately noticeable. Currently I’m running it in my 351w ford Bronco mixed with amsoil signature 0w-30. Flushed the oil (liquimoly oil flush) added amsoil 0w-30 + ceratec. It’s so quiet you can barely tell the engine is idling at a stop light. I’ve run it in everything from direct injection diesels to my v8 351w with great results. Liquimoly motorprotect (a similar product) can be added once every 30,000 miles and I’ll try that next. I don’t believe all the promises manufacturers state on cans but this product is clearly delivering in my experience on the quiet operation and smoothness. Before you condemn it for the 2 stroke lawnmower performance give it a shot in a car engine. Thank you for the tests & awesome channel-. Also I’m just an average Joe car enthusiast from Virginia and have nothing to do with Liquimoly 😎👍🏻

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@PerformanceArt19]

This is what I've learned from this guy.. use high quality oil cause everything else is a gimmick. Thank you sir for all your hard work

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@CHMernerner]

@ColdPetRat2.99 0W oils

[@b.saulius3916]

@@CHMernerner 0w?

[@CHMernerner]

@@b.saulius3916 yeah. W. Low temp viscosity rating in motor lubricants. lower the number higher fluidity in cold weather. 0W rated (like 0w30 for Diesel engine with DPF that i use) automatically means it is very high quality oil since 0W rating is not achievable without high quality base oil and good additives. It's not like 5w oils are worse(most 5w oils use high quality oil and additives like 0w) but make 0W rated oil with any cheap ingredients is just impossible.

[@Shadows-RC]

​@iMernerner That’s not quite the case. The farther the winter rating is from the summer number, the more the polymer viscosity improvers there are; and viscosity improvers are not as robust as the base oil. 0W- oils flow better in cold, but have downsides with burning and evaporating away. They can also burn, then leave deposits on the valves of engines with direct injection. They shear out of their summer grade ('weight') rating much easier. The result of that is a decreased ability to 'hold onto' the ability of their additive package to be effective. That's why it's such a crime to take such a thin base oil with a ton of weak viscosity improvers, then recommend such long oil change intervals with these modern GDI and TGDI engines with low tension piston rings and fuel dilution. They're already much tougher on motor oil as it is. Comparing a 0W-30 with a 10W-30 is no contest when it comes to durability. 5W-20 will last longer than a 5W-50 even though it's thinner. More base oil. Think of an oils winter rating as the base oil, and the rest as liquid polymer....even though that's not entirely accurate either. They add a lot more anti wear additives to oils like 0W-20 to compensate for it's weak film strength. That only works so much. There's just no replacing thicker oil. Thicker oils with more base oil simply outperform 0W stuff when it comes to friction. It's a balance. The best oil for winter (unless it's Alaska or north pole) is a 5W-20. Best stuff for warm weather/climates are stuff like 10W-30 and 20W-50.

[@phazonxl]

This dude probably removes cylinder heads in his sleep.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback.

[@Baldur1975]

Aber Schweißen ist noch zu üben XD

[@ryanfrancis9893]

I read that as sheep, not sleep. I better go to bed and stop watching KZbin

[@trevors8577]

What I want to know is how many new head gaskets has he gone through so far!

[@GTrainRx7]

Also bet he buys those gaskets by the carton..

[@travisbrookshire9597]

I don't like the way it made the oil look. If I checked my oil and it looked like that I would think I have water in my oil

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point.

[@johnpossum556]

It looked like the engine was sick and a little kid _prescribed_ it pepto bismal.

[@Itsa_Mea]

That's the first thing I thought of too. An air cooled engine not so much, but a liquid cooled engine I'd be alarmed.

[@BL-yj2wp]

My dad used have an Opel Astra wich always had large amounts of water in the oil, there always were a few cups full of the typical yellowish slime on top of the oil when you opened the lid. However the engine ran just fine until the car fell apart after maybe 15 years.

[@o1mtbiker]

I would be hard pressed to put anything in my oil, let alone something that looked like chocolate milk. The oil I run states, do not run an oil additive as it will harm the oil and its capabilities. I honestly want to see a blind show down between amsoil, Mobile one castrol, and for shits and giggles brad penn. in 5w-30. I will even supply the oil.

[@Riley1524]

As long as you run a decent, snythetic oil, you shouldn't need to use any additives. Love your work, project farm!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@tarquineous]

These additives are designed to improve synthetic or conventional motor oils. I have been alternating between Ceratec, Motorkote and Bestline for the last 15 years. Prior to that, there was BG-MOA and Prolong. Clean oil is mandatory IMHO, with or without additives. My gasoline engine has 310k miles and the Diesel has 271K. They both still run strong and pass emissions tests. And it's fun.

[@DragonBuilds]

I have one of those Volvo 5 cylinder engines with the notorious oil consumption problem. It was running a little rough, burning lots of oil, and had reduced fuel economy. The dealer recommended an engine rebuild, so I was fully ready to sell the car for something else, but I decided to try Ceratec instead. It quieted up the engine, made it run more smoothly, reduced oil consumption, and increased my MPG. I will now use it every 30,000 miles as recommended and I hope it will allow me to get more life out of the car.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@celica78]

A number of years ago a salesman demonstrated a oil additive called "Power Up" to me and my Dad. He had a lubricity tester similer to yours plus a lawn mower engine. The mower engine was treated with the product.... it ran in the driveway for 15 minutes with no oil in it.... the salesman actually took the drain plug out and showed us! The results on the lubricity tester were amazing as well how ever I haven't seen the product in years.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@frankcobra6890]

Now it's called turbomaxx

[@gonesideways6621]

If my Grandpa had only had that drill when he cranked his Model T he would have been a happy man !

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point!

[@crazeguy26]

I think they made a starter kit for the model T. I think.

[@scottw550]

My Grandpa had a Model T truck, he told me a few stories, like not having enough power to climb a hill.

[@jagolago-bob]

He might still be alive

[@CA5H3W]

Ceratec has helped a fair bit with my R56 Mini's oil burning problem. I used to burn through about a quart of oil every 2000-2500 miles, with the Ceratec added it is more like a quart of oil every 4000-4400 miles. Eventually I switched to using a higher grade and heavier oil (Amsoil Signature Series 0w-40) I still add the Ceratec just because I still have some and my car has virtually stopped burning oil, it now burns probably less than 1/2 of a quart every 5000 miles now

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@scottp6761]

5w50

[@jackfrost-fu7hz]

I leave it to the engineers at Mobil and Valvoline to determine what goes into the oil, I use full synthetic, although many of them are just group 3 base oils.

[@blokeontheend]

When I put new valve stem seals in my Jeep GC, I noticed my camshafts didn't spin freely at all. Rather than spend big bucks on a new top end for an 18 yo car, I tried ceratec and it helped a lot. MPG improved 2 mpg highway and mixed. It does however seem to trigger the oil pressure sensor at stop lights after 3k miles. I replaced the sensor and got the same result - so I'm guessing as the oil loses viscosity pressure drop. So I just change my oil more often. NB: it took me about 200mi of hwy driving to see the change.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@RobertLeBlancPhoto]

1% increase in fuel efficiency is certainly significant, but there's still two more determining factors: The effective life of the product and its cost. If the cost is high, and the product must be reapplied too often, then the 1% may no longer be a viable result to justify the costs.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great points!

[@HAL-dm1eh]

Exactly. I like one aspect of the idea (increased efficiency), but the bigger picture requires factoring in cost of the product and how frequently it has to be consumed vs fuel cost savings.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

HAL 9000 plus realize that boron is already in every quality oil I've looked at including Honda Semi-synthetic oil 10w-40. It's not always in motorcycle oils, but it is always in synthetic oils for cars...excepting perhaps super cheap Wal-Mart Supertec.

[@veselskapravnicka5111]

But other factor to take in mind is that your engine can last longer because of the lower friction and thus lower engine wear.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

InglouriousSimon just use better oil and I'm suggesting this product is already in there.

[@Grone13]

I have put one can of Liqui Moly STOP on my old '71 Ford Falcon, and it basically removed 10 years off the engine, stopped smoking, reduced noise, runs smoother, solved a leak... I higly recomend this brand.

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive results! Thanks for commenting on this.

[@lordzed83]

@@ProjectFarm Wassup. I used Some of those products on my 100k+ Honda and Nissan more as an protection after getting them While doing full fluid and general maintenance. I think It's same stuff more or less and No MAGIC but fuel consumption and coolant temperature coming out of engine(Custon Defi dials) went down 5-7 while driving in same conditions. For what they charge on used car as extra maintenance I think its ok. Noone Should expect to FIX an broken engine with this stuff :)

[@bojacque6474]

I want to seriously thank you for your videos. Been a fan for a long time, and your in depth testing of these products has been extremely helpful and saved me money from not buying into the hype of overrated products. Thank you for all your hard work!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@RigepFroggit]

Same here, project farm videos are a godsend. They have saved me money in the past and will most likely do so in the future.

[@jdlech]

Higher RPMs with no temperature increase? Physics don't lie, it's doing something right. In the trucking industry, a 1% increase in fuel efficiency can translate into several thousand dollars over the course of a year. Some trucking companies would kill for 1% with just an oil additive. Thanks again for these videos and keep 'em coming.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome, will do!

[@jjprulz]

I like how the "effects" list states: "reduces friction and wear" and "prevents direct metal to metal contact". Isn't that what _motor oil_ does?

[@v12-s65]

Apparently, but it's supposed to reduce the friction even more

[@paultro8457]

Run just liquid Moly in the crankcase to see what happens.👍👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@unitaoperativaautomatica80]

Most of the additives are diluted in mineral oils or synthetic oils with a very low flash point. In just a few hours of operation, the additive will remain in the engine and the mineral oil will be evaporated, restoring the original level. Using only additive, after a few hours there would not be anything .. I used the ceratec in 2 different cars, one with 200,000 km and a new car. In the new car I did not find any difference, but in the old car a very positive difference. In the video we talk about having tested other additives better than ceratec, what are these additives? Thank you

[@texasblaze1016]

Paultro 84 No

[@paultro8457]

@@texasblaze1016 how about, yes

[@paultro8457]

@@unitaoperativaautomatica80 hahaha I just wanted to see how long it would run before it blew up. I wasn't saying it would be a good idea for MAXIMUM protection.

[@ehoberg]

My BMW 318i with a gasoline-engine (no Diesel!) was built in 4/2000 and now has 400.000 km. I use the Ceratec since more than 15 years and the engine runs better than ever! I do not want to miss it.

[@jackondursak2500]

First of all, i love your videos. I use ceratec all the time. It started with my problems with ticking M57d30 (3.0diesel bmw) it sounded like injectors but after change nothing changed, i tried a engine carbon cleaning and still nothing. Then i used ceratec and after few minutes idling. It stoped. After that i tryied that on my M54b30 ( 3.0 petrol bmw) this engine is known to consume oil.. mine did a lil bit like 0.5 liter per 3k km after ceratec the engine runs smooth and does not consume oil at all. But started again after 25 000 km ? Something like that i think. Added ceratec again and again it worked. So for me it is must have. My friend with Honda engine did not have same experience, i gues it depends on engine. But overall great video! 😇 sorry for bad English.

[@jebohim]

Hey can You tell more about that knocking problem In M57 ?

[@514aam]

I have actually used MOS2 and ceratec, ceratec is more inmediate, MOS2 takes some time to start working. Both are good protection for the engine when racing. We have been getting about 20% more miles out of our engines before failure when using either of them. It helps the most with bearings.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@metatronmen2431]

I contacted Moly by email while a go and they told me Mos2 is for old conventional engines and Ceratec for modern generations with or without turbo.

[@stonent]

Idea, cheapest test. The cheapest oil I have found were the 1/2 quart bottles from Dollar Tree for a dollar. So effectively 2 dollars a quart. I wonder how well it fares on the lubricity test? They also sell some $1 fuel treatments, and injector cleaners. Ultra Budget Shootout!

[@ProjectFarm]

Great video idea!

[@treyw3867]

Project Farm please try that one I'm very curious of how bad it is. I've always been told not to trust cheap oil

[@alcopower5710]

Project Farm ......I think this is a "must do".........if it turns out to be the same performance as name brand it could save folks lots of money.

[@dead-or-a-lively5096]

Do it!

[@stonent]

The stuff they sell at Dollar Tree is Semi-Synthetic also.

[@E140Fanatic]

Hi, I have a 2013 Corolla with 117k kilometres on it and I have used ceratec twice. The engine still runs silky smooth and it also helped with the slight oil consumption problem. I think it’s a good product for helping your engine run for a little while longer. Great video!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for sharing.

[@StonnieDennis]

You are, officially, the smartest person on KZbin!!!

[@FJDH11]

Not really. No.

[@treygriffin6318]

Nahhhh engineering explained

[@mantis_toboggan_md]

Are you gentlemen unaware that Stonnie is KZbin's designated "smartest person on KZbin!!!" awards person?

[@Alexander_l322]

Probably one of the most honest and not sponsored you tubers out here

[@ncooty]

Thanks as always. Personally, I don't think a single run (n = 1) is a sufficient basis to assume a reliable 1% improvement in fuel efficiency. I'm not saying you should keep burning gas; I just wouldn't put much stock in such a small difference in a small sample.

[@CycloneCyd]

I agree. 1% is well within normal expected experimental error. When I was doing lab experiments as part of my Mech Eng degree at Uni, we used to consider 2-3% as normal experimental error.

[@goldenmanuever1176]

Thanks for another video. I have used LM Ceratec and MoS2 numerous times with great results. Ceratec actually takes a while to work (5K miles). Yes, there is a suspended lubricant in there, however, the true action happens after repeated cold/hot/cold cycles along with pressure. The result is a rock hard nano coating that does fill in microscopic crevices. This has been proven by engine tear downs. Something to consider when testing nano products. In automotive applications, it may take MoS2 700-800 miles to full coat all surfaces.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this information.

[@tanthony3895]

total bullshit

[@supastarvfr9534]

My friend said it quieted his car down in 15 minute but, it took just over 500 miles in his 2018 Mustang to see all of the claimed results

[@tarquineous]

Likewise, I noticed an improvement at around 200 miles. The improvement seemed to be semi permanent, in other words it lasted.

[@Christerart1]

I've used it for several years in my Volvo D5 diesels after reading about it on volvoforums.org.uk - together with Shell Helix Ultra 5w40: www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=245521&highlight=oil+change+recommendation&page=2 It works - the engines run cooler, quite and get better mileage and starts easier. The oldest V70 now has 254K and keeps on going - but like stated earlier - it takes several hundred miles b4 you notice any improvement.

[@AVH8TOR]

Best channel on KZbin for testing hands-down. Unbiased and lets the numbers and results speak for themselves.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@Lexusislife]

So glad you have a review on this product! Can you please test more liquimoly products like their engine flush or their fuel treatment products?

[@kingcoolzn]

I have used ceratec on all my vehicle's and I can tell you it makes a difference. If you listen too when you start the lawn mower with the ceratec in, it sounds better and runs smoothly.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting on this.

[@freestyle8201]

My bike honda matic 110 cc use only 15 ML Ceratec (must 60 ML), my bike is good after 3 years odo 75.000 KM. 😉 Maybe only me at indonesia know this 😉

[@TheMule440]

NMF (No More Friction) is another additive to consider testing. Owner was USAF. They say their product can be added to everything basically. Oil, fuel, diffs, pwr steering. I'd love to know if its snake oil or not! Thanks for the elaborate testing you do. I learn so much from this channel. I second the idea of a leader board for products kind of like you did in the oil bracket ranking system.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@thelandofmisteroz]

@Project Farm would love to see this test of NMF now MoGlide.

[@TheMule440]

Dang, that was two years ago I posted that comment?.. I'm glad someone else on this planet has heard about it. Wouldn't have known they switched names. The product is really unique in that the consistency is like warm peanut butter. Strange stuff. I just want to know more honestly.

[@forestlehnerd2308]

​@@TheMule440 My Family Produced the No-Mor Friction ionic Friction reducer metal conditioner up until my Father Charles Lehnerd passed away in 2016. I can say that At the time Our Product was called No-Mor Friction and we manufactured it, It was a very honest and amazing product developed by my Dad and It was far from snake oil, my Dad didn't believe in Fancy advertising/Packaging or using models to sell our product He wanted to make High quality products that were a good representation of the term "made in America" and He wanted Everyones vehicles to be reliable and last as long as possible. When He treated people's vehicles He didn't plan the time or anything, he would ask the customer if we could film it with a camcorder and He let our customers be in the videos while we treated their vehicles in person. nothing was planned or scripted, we all knew that our product was real and we all enjoyed how it spoke for itself. We had customers who drove across the USA to buy our product and visit with my Dad. they would buy him lunch and Sometimes they would call us just to talk about how happy they were with our product and how well it worked in their mower or their semi or their motorcycle etc, He was friends with all our customers and dealers, and would often end up on the phone with customers talking about just life in general people appreciated my Dad. He was always helping people, anytime someone's vehicle was running rough He would pull out some of our No-Mor Friction that we were gonna sell and treat their vehicle for free because He genuinely cared about people and He treated all our own vehicles aswell. He was the brains of the operation and at this point That He's passed and it's produced by some of our relatives who we're not directly involved with, or involved with the product, I can't say for sure what the quality control or pride behind the product is, but I know I'd love to see it tested and if it's half as good as it was when we made it, it will make a great video for all the people who watch Project farm. I would also like to add that at the time my Father passed away it hit us all very hard and Put a halt on our business because we were all processing the change and It was at that time our uncle continued to produce it without us. However several of my siblings and myself have been in the works of restarting our business and when we do I can guarantee that any and all products we produce will be made with the same pride that my Father had in our family business in helping people and in delivering quality products that spoke for themselves.

[@forestlehnerd2308]

​@@TheMule440 I hadn't even heard about Moglide, But it appears it's also produced by my Uncle. I would be interested to see that tested aswell.

[@nikerunning1995]

5 years later and still continue to use this on the coyote engine platform the engine runs like butter no tick very quiet when at idle Al you hear is the exhaust 10/10 for the application.

[@ProjectFarm]

Nice!

[@christianwoern5624]

I love this channel and watched several episodes and this one already years ago. I tried "Ceramizer" before, but I can't tell if it worked (and I think it is without extensive testing - like in this video - hard to judge a quality of a product). However, Ceramizer isn't directly available in Australia; hence I bought (again) Liqui Moly these days. My thinking is: Oil and additives are cheaper than a new engine. I own a 2.4l Hyundai - the one with the problematic crank-bearing issue. I do every 7500km an oil change (recommended by people with a lasting engine) and add every third/fourth change or so Liqui Moly. The engine sounds 30min after adding the product smoother, making me hope that the "magic" happened. Years ago I talked to a chemical engineer in Australia (his company also makes all sorts of additives) and asked him about a story I once heard. The story goes that Russians removed the engine oil of a tank completely and ran it solely on a Russian product - apparently similar to Cearmizer... - because the oil would be so thick in the cold Russian winter that they trusted the lubricating effects of their "magic" product more than the oil. The engine apparently ran for several hours without problem until they filled warmed up oil into it again. The Australian engineer apparently read more about it and believes that the right additive can complement oil quite well and reduce friction. Enough information for me to add something like Liqui Moly, and as long any additive doesn't harm the engine, I am happy to occasionally spend $AU45 (the equivalent of 10 coffees). Probably companies like Liqui Moly love customers like me :-)

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing!

[@scottgalbreath5707]

Worth pointing out, All engine oils are formulated with an additive package that includes anti-wear, friction modifier, detergents, dispersants, anti-oxidants, corrosion inhibitors, extreme pressure, anti-foaming, anti-aeration, seal conditioners, etc... I'm not referring to the aftermarket supplements like Lucas, BG MOA, Liqui-Moly Ceratec...etc. It's not a good idea to use those aftermarket supplements as complications from additive clash and/or base oil incompatibiltiy are real issues that can do more harm than good. Oil formulating is a very careful balance to ensure no one additive (or additive type) overpowers another. When you go pouring some random supplement/stabilizer into that formula, you've now upset that balance. Oil Stabilizers/Supplements are 99.5% olefin copolymer (a waxy, rubbery polymer) and 0.5% polyisobutylene (tackifier). The polymer is a viscosity modifier with very poor shear stability (loses >50% of it's original viscosity after 100 hours) and the tackifier is only there to make it cling to those gimmicky plastic gears in parts stores to deceive people into thinking that's actually useful. Tackifiers are useless in an engine since engines are lubricated with a pressurized oiling system. In that system, tackifiers only clog up stuff. Tackifiers are useful in equipment that sees splash lubrication such as manual gearboxes and differentials. No aftermarket oil additive/supplement on the market will contain any useful additives, it'll only dilute the amount currently in the oil, shortening oils life, weakening anti-wear, and promoting both oxidation and aeration of the oil. www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29836/aftermarket-oil-additives www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29610/aftermarket-oil-additives

[@shanerasberry510]

Well said. I’ve used additives on two different occasions in my bmw 7 series and both times the motor idled and drove like shit. Both times a Vanos code appeared and I instantly had to dump good clean oil and replace it immediately. I’ve noticed certain American cars are good with additives but others not so much. As much as I’d like to mix this in with the liqui moly oil I’m currently using I just dread another Vanos issue. Luckily I didn’t destroy the solenoids figuring there 800$ a piece and I have four in my engine

[@masterwhopper414]

Ceratec is a concetration of molybdenum, an additive in most modern oils. You're basically increasing the dosage

[@hokehinson5987]

Years ago while doing business at a chevron commercial outlet became acquainted with one of the back office managers. He was distinguished as being the only field Engineer in the company who had worked is way up from the engine test labs as a funky to field engineer. We talked about oils told him about our regional trading site maintenance. This guy volunteered to drive over 120 miles to give a lecture about oil & lubricates to the students. Not only did he do an out standing job each student received a 3 ring binder full of information as did all the RTSM Cadre. Basically he said same thing the op stated. In his lecture he said in the industry all additives were called mouse milk. And the companies who produced them made millions. His advice based on years of experience choose a good quality oil & filter change under factory specified time use synthetic oil if possible change eariler than specified intervals. Keep up on prevention maintenance. Faulty spark plugs, wires or bad coil will wash a cylinder of lube advancing wear. He was a really humble man the kind that are rare today...full of actual field experience not opinions from books.

[@goclunker]

@@shanerasberry510 that’s because you don’t take care of your car. Zero issues in a e36 m3 and a e39 540i

[@jasontom6642]

So I changed my oil with Royal Purple 5w-20 on my Honda and added Certec in the engine. I went to LA from SF and came back today putting over 1200 miles. I noticed when going down to LA the car ran smoother and had better mileage. But I also cleaned my valves along with the oil change. I am not sure if the Certec was the only cause but I had better and smoother performance engine.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@-DrMohammedAbolghar]

I like how practical and unbiased you are , greetings from Egypt

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@subram2011]

Thanks for this test. I have been using Ceratec in my hyundai i10 1.2 kappa for the past 3 years or so. I run around 75km everyday in mixed traffic with max speeds of 100km/hr and ambient temperatures upto 42C. It's been excellent product. I have seen an reduction in engine noise, improved acceleration and slightly improved fuel efficiency. However also noticed reduced engine braking. Note: i believe that Liqui Moly changed their formulation around 2017/8.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing

[@honestguy7764]

What have you noticed after that date?

[@subram2011]

@@honestguy7764 I have seen a slight improvement in performance between earlier formulation and current one. Also the effect of ceratec remains for a few thousand Kms even after i replace oil and run oil without ceratec. However after these 2-3 thousand Kms, the effect wears away and i have to use ceratec to get back the same results. My car is currently close to 100,000 Kms and running very smoothly. I have been using ceratec almost fully since around 40,000 Kms.

[@shantanuchandra7291]

Hello Subram, what engine oil do you use along with the Ceratec, asking you considering you are from India? Also, if you remember, was the effect of Ceratec almost instant, or did it take a few hundred/ thousand kilometers before the effect could be felt?

[@subram2011]

@@shantanuchandra7291 the effect starts quite quickly - within 50kms. Possibly there is some bonding of the ceramic particles with the engine insides. Normally I use motul 0W40 engine oil for my i10 vehicle.

[@kristopherhasenbuhler5393]

Watching these adds so you get PAID! Keep bringing us good vids! We learn a lot from you

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback

[@whiskeybuilder6335]

Hope you are making more videos. During the lockdown I've been binge watching and I starting to run out. Don't let that happen!

[@ProjectFarm]

More to come!

[@wesmokepotcannabis3287]

Love the name

[@MilosStevanovic1]

By far the best KZbinr when it comes to testing products and giving the honest opinion.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@geor664]

Thanks for organising such a methodical and rigorous testing of Moly CeraTec. I always love watching your tests. . When you test under power load, you are showing the voltage and current, then Watts. When the load is inductive reactive (such as a coil or electric coiled heater element) some of the current will lag the voltage. The power will then be partly real and partly reactive ( non work producing). It is perfectly adequate to only show power in Watts (assuming the meter displays True RMS power). The display of frequency in Hz is useful to show constancy of loading as you did in the video. . Project Farm, I have a suggestion as an alternative to explore for filling scored cylinder walls and scored crank journal bearing surfaces. . Howard Hughes Senior built his fortune by leasing out oil drill bit heads with a difference to competitors. One of his claims to fame was the ball bearings used where of a softer iron. The ball bearings would deform but continue working without shattering . His competitors would use ultra hard metals which would eventually crack and fail. . With the same reasoning then, you might like to try ultra fine particulate solder paste mixed into the crankcase oil. The idea is that the fine solder paste melts at the friction hotspots and fills in the scored sections of cylinder wall and crank journals. As the friction hotspot is filled, its local temperature is reduced an the scored area stays filled with solder and also stays solid. The rest of the paste stays in emulsion throughout the engine with the cooler oil. In comparison, Molytec Ceramic is the opposite to solder alloy in hardness. Boron Oxide is a very hard material (hardness of glass-like B2O3 is of about 1.5 GPa , journal of super hard materials 2008, "On the hardness of boron (III) oxide") You are showing external engine temperatures of around 350 F. The internal friction hot spots would be higher. Solder melt temperatures can be selected from 190 to 840 °F depending on the solder alloy selected. I would mix together a small range of solders with different melt temperatures to cover different engine conditions and friction hot spot temperatures so you have a greater chance of achieving the correct temperature zone for solid filling solder into scored hotspots. Solder paste is used in the electronic industry for printed circuit board assembly soldering of SMD components (Surface Mount Devices) . Solder melt temperature should be selected to be just below friction hot spot temperature and above oil temperature. Yoiu will need to put a thermocouple with a DVM Digital measurement meter to measure temperature of the oil. Thermocouples for DVMs are cheap (around 10s of dollars) . You can drill a hole in the side of the crankcase, insert the tiny thermocouple and epoxy it in place with a non conducting epoxy or Black petroleum resistant RTV gasket forming compound (also non conducting so as not to short out the thermocouple two-metal leads coming through the crankcase.) . Solder paste particulate size (lead alloy granules) range from 100 micron (1E-6 m or 1x10^-6 metres) down to 1 micron. I would use the finer solder paste particulate size so that it is able to flow through all the oil journals without clogging them. . The amount of solder paste I would use is roughly 2 orders of magnitude more than is needed to fill the volume of scored metal within the engine. This would still be a minuscule amount of solder paste material as a percentage of the oil in the crankcase. I'm guessing maybe 1 to 3% of the volume of oil in the crankcase of the engine. The residual left over solder paste continues to circulate the engine until it finds and lodges into any new hot spot scored areas. . Sources of solder paste and Thermo couple for digital volt meters . Chipworks and Loctite both make excellent solder pastes These can be bought from electronic component sellers such as Mouser, Digikey and Element14 . I hope you consider this suggestion and I would be happy to help in selecting the solder paste if this is too foreign an idea. George

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@brianadler67]

I'd love to see an oil additive tournament similar to the oil tournament (that Amsoil won and Pennzoil got 2nd place) you ran.

[@brianadler67]

And then take the winner of the additives and add it to Amsoil (the oil winner) and see if there is an improvement over and above Amsoil alone..

[@ProjectFarm]

Great recommendation!

[@Ram0n20]

This channel is so underrated. This guy brings in the best videos in KZbin. Real science, a lot of effort, and very informative. Not counting that he takes the time to answer most of the comments on the video, this is amazing, counting the fact that he has almost 3 million subscribers. Please keep up the good work, and I would like to see a video on the Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@commandmodule6278]

Single cylinder Honda motorbike 150cc class… 1st a flush (liqui moly brand), then a “rinsing” oil change THEN the Ceratec mixed at 6% ratio with 0W-30 100% synth oil. Engine went from whisper quiet (before) to almost inaudible (after) Ceratec. Undoubtedly this stuff is doing something. Curious to see what it will look like after 5000kms in the drain pan guessing lil cloudy like cream in coffee. GREAT channel🏅 Thank you🙏🏽

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

[@carlosb6205]

Imagine this: You're a beat down lawn mower thinking your life is over. Then an awesome garage guru picks you up and uses you for his experiments and you become a famous KZbin lawn mower.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Robert Maybeth 1 second ago I tried doing that and it just made my weed whacker feel jealous

[@brucecoleman7412]

Great job, Todd! I think we are seeing a slight improvement in the short term. A long term test should be in order to see if the improvements become significant. What do you think?

[@donsummers5678]

On the longer run, should get better cause you cook the compounds. I think.

[@a_ricky]

I saw a 5% improvement (1mpg) in fuel economy after using Ceratec in my old VW CC VR6 w/130k on the ticker. After using Shell 93 for a while and got a bad tank of gas, I switched to Mobile 1 gas and had another 1 mpg improvement. I also had another 1 mpg improvement by switching Castrol 0W-40 to Liqui Moly 5W-40 Leichtlauf high tech. I'm getting a whole whopping 22 mpg in town now, smashing that EPA rating of 17 mpg. 😂😂 ...I was previously averaging 19. Before it even gets said, I still drive like a bat out of hell around town, as much as my 3.6L engine will allow. If I wanted to putz around, I'd hypermill a Honda CR-Z Hybrid with a six-speed manual and feel damn cool doing it. 👍😎

[@ProjectFarm]

Great information. Thank you

[@rsxonprogress9488]

@@ProjectFarm what oil additive do you recommend me for my acura rsx? It seems to have a ticking or knocking on the block and i want to eliminate as much as noise as possible

[@billysledgehammer]

@@rsxonprogress9488 liquid moly or marvel mystery oil

[@joseduranjr4963]

For 40 years I have always changed my oil every 3,000 miles. Each engine I’ve had in every vehicle has lasted more than 500,000 miles. I use 1 tablespoon of Prolong grease in the paper oil filter and 2oz of transmission fluid from Lube Guard instant shudder fixx and 0W-20 oil from liquid moly. I have no idea how these interact with each other but my engines have always been clean with zero sludge, run ultra smooth and very quiet. My next test vehicle is a 2017 VOLVO XC60 with the 2.0 supercharged and turbocharged engine. So far it’s very smooth and purrs better than when I got it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@joseduranjr4963]

@@jalove7 greetings! I have an oil change self service soon. My supplies are arriving. I’ll demonstrate the process I follow religiously. Jose

[@JayHutchG]

Ya know I almost bought some of this for a tired old RV with 125,000 mi, but I stopped. Said to self "wonder if Project Farm has looked at this stuff?" Well Todd you did it again with a scientific approach to tame snakes. Also I must say that as a gear head I trust your videos more than almost anything I see or hear. Nearly always more than what I read. Dang, I can't let myself buy a tool unless you've tested it. Love what you do on Project Farm.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@user-go6te5ux2d]

We need vedio about liqui moly flush engine

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@StJerihon]

@@ProjectFarm can you say something about it now? Because i will use it tomorrow :D

[@gufiaito69able]

@@ProjectFarm yes please

[@igotaction]

Oh that stuff works!!!!

[@sharms888]

@@StJerihon Yes !

[@drexellake4051]

You're going to have a huge difference in outcomes between these little engines and say a V6 or V8. I would be very interested in hearing about what worked better.

[@LorenzoCalgaryRealtor]

I agree.

[@SFSraptor]

Of the many tests you have conducted there must 1 or more that stand out & you would recommend. A video covering them & your opinion of these outstanding additives would be very interesting, in my opinion. Further, the investigation could be further broken up into specific classes, wear resistance, longest life (apply every 50,000 miles), price to value, Least deposits, added rpm's, most attributes in a container, etc.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@jasonmcelroy1938]

I used Ceratec with every oil change in my E90 M3 with the S65 V8 that were known to have rod bearings fail due to lack of lubrication. Every Blackstone analysis came back just like the test before it (little to no metallic material in sample) and I never had rod bearing failure so, take that for what you will.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@FourFour2theFloor]

Every oil change seems over kill, instructions say once every 30k miles or so. However you can use the mos2 friction reducer after every oil change

[@v12-s65]

@@FourFour2theFloor 30k kilometers... not miles lol

[@v12-s65]

@@FourFour2theFloor can I use engine protect mid cycle... 4k mimes since the last oil change on my passat

[@electronicsNmore]

The color of the oil reminds me of Starbucks iced coffee in the bottles. LOL. Great video as usual!

[@ProjectFarm]

lol. I agree. I'd think headgasket failure had occurred if this was the oil from a water-cooled engine. Thank you!

[@marc-oliviercabot3380]

A friend of mine used to put a couple of bottles of Ceratec in an old Bailey's liquor bottle and terrified newbies at the engine shop he worked at by telling them his truck really liked a dose of Bailey's. Those guys faces were epic!

[@DeerKoden]

@@marc-oliviercabot3380 hehe, nice one :D

[@lastpally]

electronicsNmore taste the same too.

[@JohnDoe-gm5qr]

It looks kinda like caramel but you would probably end up in the hospital if you drank it.

[@riderrider516]

I spoke to the liquiMoly rep at SEMA 2019. Was curious as I work in a BMW dealer collision center and see a lot of BMWs that burn as much as a quart a month. Was told this product was developed specific to stem some of that issue. My own 2002 Avalance 5.3 with 220k plus has been using about 1 qt half way through its oil change cycle. Figured I would try Ceratec for the hell of it and see what happened. Lifter noise reduced and when my change oil light came on I hadn't lost but maybe a couple of ounces of oil. Good enough to convince me. I'll add another bottle after a few more changes.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@purplelizardtoes]

The amount of time and work you invest in these videos, brother! Top notch! I especially appreciate you having dedicated so much time to this particular product, for my own self-serving interests. Thank you!

[@sgeine]

for $300-400k p/year from youtube videos alone, he should

[@jellofuel]

This is the first video I've stumbled across from this channel, and I have to say, I love the empirical analysis! The anecdotes on these company's sites are just that - anecdotal accounts with no scientific approach at all. It's videos like this that answer te questions a critical thinker will have, like "does it actually perform as advertised?" and if it's even worth it. Good job!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@JoJanDiezel]

This additive works great, it just need time to build up and stick on the metal parts. Remember, this is not oil, this is coating witch needs time and proper temp, and once stick to the metal, it can last 2 to 3 oil changes (on 10k km intervals) without adding it again.

[@hurleyman77]

Is there anywhere we can find a summary of your other engine oil additive tests (or the rest of your tests)? I'm curious what performed better in the past...

[@simpesfaip]

engine restorer and lucas

[@legioner9]

@@simpesfaip Those did better than Ceratec?

[@arttafil6792]

While I don’t use additives in my oil, I do exclusively use Liquimoly oil in all of my vehicles. My personal feelings are that if you use a quality base lubrication you will not need any. Additives.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the feedback

[@ashishpatel350]

You're like the anti-snake oil salesman. 🐸

[@ProjectFarm]

lol. My goal is to provide each product a fair test. It just turns out that most additives don't seem to deliver results.

[@Enjoymentboy]

This brings up an idea. How long will an engine run on actual snake oil? :: If you can't find it maybe try something like clarified butter or lard in the crankcase.

[@HarmonHeat]

He is the bees knees

[@TBPony]

thats why we love this channel, he tells the truth and he does it in an even better way that we can through very strict and fair home testing. thank you again @Project Farm

[@spaert]

Agreed. Most of them are a waste of money. And hope.

[@PhillipRhodes]

I've spent most of my life thinking of most oil additives as being pretty close to 100% snake oil, and have never used any. So I am a little bit impressed to see that this stuff does actually have *some* beneficial effect in terms of lowering internal friction and improving fuel efficiency. Not sure I'd bother putting it in my car or anything, but at least you showed that it's not total B.S. 🙂

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@someusername121]

There's always a tradeoff though or else engine oil manufacturers would just included this in their additive package themselves.

[@mrcoolhellyeah252]

​@@someusername121 yeah you have a point, can u suggest something that could happen to engine in long run? just anything ❤

[@GokuInstinct1]

@@someusername121nah it’s supposed to be separate because it coats everything and adding this to the oil would be too much because it’s only used every 30k miles. The Liqui Moly engineers know what they’re doing. They also make oil.

[@oldmercedesdiesel]

I just ran across this after thinking about using it in my grasshopper diesel mower. I’ve used liquimoly diesel purge for 20 years to bring many old diesels back to life and keep the fuel systems running smoothly. From your testing I think Ceretec is at least worth a shot. Thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.

[@Bikemad24]

Can you do a final test on the top 3 additives? Amazing videos. You really go above and beyond

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@buildanddrive]

@@ProjectFarm when you say there is a better product than ceratec... And it's not mos2... Then what is the better product?

[@ioannisstavrou2677]

Mos2 make the oil thick! It’s a thickener so is masking your engine issues or your wrong oil and quality👌🏻

[@prathyushavarma7659]

The test must have been done with xado and polytron as well..

[@lesleyshipley7]

I like these videos, good unbiased information. I would love to see TriboTEX on the lubricity tester as well as a worn engine vs new head to head competition .Good stuff as always 👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@2002Cally]

I've been watching for years. Excellent reviews! No B.S. Todd, you could absolutely have your own TV show!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@joshuaparnell8891]

Love the oil testing videos. You have a very professional and unbiased view of all things. Would it be possible to do like a annual recap of your best products, best additives and such? So many on the market its very njce to see the scientific comparisons. Me personally I have been a long time LM MoS2 user. My truck is a 95 F150 with 200K and still runs and sounds great. Thanks for the awesome videos.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.

[@Davido50]

F150s run a long time w/just good reg maintenance (quality engine oil & Motorcraft filters). -Ohio

[@maxiturbo08]

7:05 that front camber 😍

[@ProjectFarm]

Drift mower, lol

[@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi]

Awesome idea about the shortcut video about how the lubricity tester works! I really love your videos! your the only youtuber without a brain washing agenda. Thanks for the intelligent practical videos!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@GregPentecost]

Absolutely love CeraTech! Put it in two cars and definitely noticed in both within about 5 miles. I’m a believer 👍🏼 and will continue to use 👍🏼

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@madhavdpune]

You mentioned testing additives with better film strength and better overall. Could you name some? Thanks

[@glasser2819]

yes, what are the better engine snake oils? [Do not mess wit ATF snake oils... kills the clutch friction !!]

[@benniethejew]

@@glasser2819 I have had results from seafoam trans additive, smells of acetone i thinks it frees up sticking valvebody components

[@timmyboy2495]

Nice vid! What in your opinion is the best additive to use? You mention in the end that liquimoly has some benefits but isn’t better than some of the other products you’ve tested.

[@windwalker682]

Guess I'll stick with motorkote. Thanks for the testing keep up the good work.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@trugani569]

It’s rare that I feel the need to comment on a KZbin video. This is one of those rare occasions. This video is so well made, professional, and scientific. I love it!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@FEGTTTSDH]

Superb test, but probably the ceratec need more time for coating, in a engine probably after 1000 km makes a better result (sorry for my crap english) Regards! PD: I have the ceratec with a Renault Laguna 2.0s and the difference is incredible

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for commenting on this. I'm glad the Ceratec is helping your Renault Laguna.

[@wrath407z]

Hello! So what’s the best product you’ve tested for these claims? Thank you!