Add Diesel to the Engine Crankcase? Let's see what happens!

[@joshchavers7391]

What I love about this Chanel is it's pure science. Results are results.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@E620SE]

that's not how sciences works

[@brocksterification]

Decades ago we ran 100% turbine fuel (kerosene) and no oil in an old inline 6 cylinder engine that was rattling like a tin full of marbles for a few minutes at idle and couldn't believe how much crap it flushed out when we drained it. We repeated this until the turbine fuel came out clean and the engine purred like a kitten for years. No damage, no metal, no loss of compression. Secret is don't rev or load the engine and don't run it for too long. You have one of the best channels on YT!! Thank you!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Impressive! Thank you very much!

[@forrestpittman1667]

Excellent demonstration, I have been doing that sence 1968 In the military we had a hard time getting oil filters, so I would wash the filter the best I could and flush the engine with diesel mixed in the oil, but only at an idle. Drained the oil and diesel, then pour a final quart to flush any remains left in the crank case put everything back together. and was able to go another 50 to 100 hours, with the hour meter. I kept track with the machines log. until I left the service. I still do the flush today and now the filter are easy to get. This allows me to run my vehicles for years. I have sense gone to senthetic oils which are better. However I still like to do the flush on my engine, it keeps it really clean inside. I am now over 74 years of age. I like to practice what works for me. Berrymans 12 mixed with the diesel and oil works wonders to remove gum and varnish from inside the engine with each flush. I ncver race or rev the engine this prevents thin oil problems with lubrication. Always be willing to try new tehnology but with care. As well as fore thought.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great information. Thank you!

[@Pesach65]

Sorry I am a bit late to the show. Love your work!! In the early 90's my Dad gifted me a 1977 Caprice Classic for my 25th birthday. He had purchased it with a 1984 Camaro 305 engine installed. The guy told him it was a "low mileage" engine. Well, it barely ran. I brought it o work and an old guy by the name of Hubie that hailed from "middle of the sticks" Missouri , told me that I had either a flat cam or stuck lifters He told me to buy 4 oil filters, 17 quarts of oil and .75 gallon of diesel. Drive the car at least 100 miles on 4 quarts of oil and 1 quart of diesel. Then change it out until you get back to straight oil. He then says, "If that don't fix the problem, bring her over and we'll tear her down and rebuild her." I didn't know what to say. The guy was the nicest old man I ever met but I didn't want to toast the engine. In the end I took the leap of faith and I am not kidding you that the car ran right as rain by the last oil change. I another 80k miles on that car before selling it to get a truck. Old Hubie never steered me wrong. If he is still alive I bet he would love your channel!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Awesome! The old timers are smart! Thanks for sharing this experience!

[@Tore_Lund]

This story needs to be a movie.

[@23thebull]

Oldie but goody...old timers know there stuff😂😂😂😂

[@fido139]

And that is why us old buggers should be listened to. :P

[@nickking1510]

Daniel J agreed

[@austinallmond7211]

You use 10W-30 as a baseline, but could you run a bearing dry in the lubricity tester to show how well a product works compared to nothing at all?

[@ProjectFarm]

Great recommendation!

[@pieseasmyseas]

O yea burn it up

[@tannert8361]

Thats a great idea! Itwill give us a better baseline..

[@jcr8834]

Austin Allmond you wouldn't run an engine dry so it's pointless

[@tinncan]

Dang, you did my recommendation 8 hours earlier than I did... Have some random KZbin hopefully beneficial interaction...

[@saleen367]

Back in the 70's I worked on a dairy farm. Every time they would buy a used vehicle for farm use, they would drop the oil and run diesel fuel in the crankcase for about 5-10 mins, drop it again and presto! - a sparkling clean engine. Since I was in my teens at the time, I had no idea what they were doing. But I watched it with my own eyes one day on a car that had always been run on Pennzoil. We removed the valve covers and it was caked with sludge. After the diesel flush, it was amazingly clean. Since we never ran it over idle during the flush, the extent of wear on the bearings in particular may have been minimal, but that was a time and place when anything that ran was a good thing. They even taught this in the local HS shop class.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting!

[@mixter7x7]

mix oil 50/50 with diesel to do an engine flush on old motors. works like a champ. for old v-8's add 1 quart of automatic transmission fluid for winter oil changes. this prevents the lifters and pushrods from growing sludge and clogging.

[@Driver-UK]

saleen367 POP

[@loudandfastpodcast9174]

You hit the nail on the head this was never meant to replace oil it was meant to clean dirty engines and it works!

[@williamescolantejr5871]

@@loudandfastpodcast9174 yes he did and yes it was.grew up childhood years in 70s in central pa. and this was a norm mostly for farm tractors but I guess lot of other engines as well.also,added marvel mystery afterward to keep them going good

[@davidsommerfeld2955]

I had this happen by accident on my John Deere chore tractor one winter. It never used any oil when I checked it, it was always full and it never dripped when parked. Left it idle in the yard one day and I caught it dripping. I have no sense of smell so I couldn’t detect the diesel. Engine oil analysis showed mostly diesel in the oil and a 5% viscosity of what it was supposed to be. The company even called me and said don’t use the tractor. Rebuilt the injector pump and problem solved. Since then I do an oil analysis every change and I cut open the filter. No noticeable loss of power and it’s not making metal that I can see at oil changes. What saved me is it never ran at high rpm while feeding the cows and never more than about 10 minutes at a time. Enjoy your videos and usually learn a bit from them. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@russgoyer]

I acquired a GM vehicle with a 400 small block. The previous owners had never change the oil in 75,000 miles. They just kept adding to it. The amount of sludge was indescribable. I manually removed as much sludge as I could before flushing with diesel. Fully draining the crankcase and reapplying straight diesel, I ran the engine for 15 minutes. There was no visible evidence of destruction. But the Removal of sludge and deposits was extremely evident. This was an older engine, not subject to any warrantee so risk is minimal. The engine and vehicle lived to travel the roads another 20 years to my knowledge.

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow! Glad diesel did the job!

[@nickking1510]

russgoyer diesel cleans for sure but I would have rather had oil and diesel to add some lubricant and ran 15 left over night ran 15 left over night + small block Chevy engines were fantastic engines

[@nickking1510]

russgoyer I worked for a gm dealership as a kid after school ( it was not considered child abuse in the late sixties and seventies to work after school 30 hours per week and 48 in vacations ) any way we had a leased Chevy van leased to a tire sales company . The 1970 chev van had 300 hp 350 and at 50k miles it came in for noisy motor , I pulled the dip stick the oil looked like tar .later Gary the mechanic remove one of the valve covers it had 3 inches of sludge covering every thing except valve springs,I went got Bill our boss he said I just can’t believe it they have not changed the oil in 2 years he made the company buy the van and a rebuild engine plus labour . Since that day any used car or truck considered to purchase I stick my middle finger in the oil fill tube or valve cover if it sludgy to any extent I pass on buying it as it has not been serviced regularly lolol

[@Tracert-mc1hu]

@ahawnt Now, you can even use a boroscope camera to look inside. Depending on the shape of the valve cover, you can actually see quite a bit. Or it can be put down the dip stick hole to see the crankcase

[@williamtea9662]

I'm about to change the oil in my early 90s chev V6 and heard of using diesel. Any tips would be great

[@markusgarvey]

Yes, when I first started working as an apprentice mechanic in the early 80's, we would get cars in the shop from elderly people who would never let their engines reach operating temp that would be packed with sludge from the condensation and oil mist mixing. The condensation will form when you shut your engine down no matter what. The key is letting all the condensation burn off before you shut down the next time you drive . It was a really messy job and it would work bout 50 % of the time. Sometimes the sludge was the only thigng holding them together, because they would never change the oil or rarely. We would fill the engine to the brim and let it sit overnight in the worst cases. Pull the valve covers and sometimes the intake as well and EGR passage would be packed and why the car would quit running.. There would still be layers of sludge that would need to be knocked off even after sitting overnight. We would run the diesel fuel through coffee filters and use it to flush the engine and then flush it with clean at the end to make sure the stuff at the bottom of the pan and pickup would get pushed out, You would have to keep pusing a a screwdriver through the ol drain hole to keep the chunks flowing , Finally fill with oil and let it get hot hot, change once more and send it down the road. 50/50 chance the engine would survive, Mostly big V8's Cadillacs, Buick' Olds, Crown Vics. Mostly elderly people. Not really an issue with 4 cylinders since they heat up a lot quicker and back then old people drove big American cars with V8's. We had one Mercedes V8 that didn't survive. The Timing chains on the overhead cams would stretch out from the dirty oil/ no crankcase ventilation. and wouldn't be worth fixing.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@grinningfish7313]

Every third oil change on my Toyota diesels, I add diesel to the crankcase and allow to idle for several minutes. The sludge that comes out when drained is astounding, and the engine runs very smooth. I’ve been doing this for just over fifteen years to the same two engine and it’s never let me down. We did it often on ship engines in the Navy prior to carrying out crankcase inspections too. Thank you for the great projects you do, I enjoy them all very much.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@apfelsnutz]

great video! I ran an Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 420,000 mi. and flushed the engine once a year by adding a quart of diesel to the dirty oil before change. The engine was super clean at rebuild... Just let it IDLE for 10 minutes. Very effective.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing

[@bazrobb6242]

You put a lot of time and money into your vids you deserve a lot more views and subscribers .Thanks .

[@ProjectFarm]

I appreciate that!

[@ronaldcoward9576]

We saved alot of old sludged up engines back in the day by adding 1 qt of diesel with 4 qts oil. But it was very important that the engine be idling as low as possible. This really just circulated the thinner oil until it reached operating temp. The lawn mower was running way too fast which will cause damage for sure. Love your page! Please keep up the good work!!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.

[@unclematt3]

I've started adding a half cup of diesel to my son's breakfast cereal every morning.

[@earthling94]

unclematt3 kids these days need more diesel in their diet anyway

[@boomwithpeter623]

Ahahahhaha

[@sullivan5639]

It's been a year. Update? He still runnin good?

[@nitehawk4067]

woot woot !

[@johnbeckman8916]

Did it make his nuts drop? 😃

[@alexpaulsen1487]

Idk when I’m ever going to find myself in an emergency with only diesel and no oil but I still find myself watching all your videos lol. Your scientific method approach to these tests really helps me believe the results!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@AchtungGefahr]

Your videos are awesome thank you for them. I watched many of them and realised with the intense things you put your engine through as a pro I as a amateur should be able to fix a engine with some tlc. I took a 1954 car that has not run in at least 30 years from my dad. Not only did you give me the courage but also a lot of trick and tips. I now have a working 1954 willys jeep. Happy thank you.

[@88e303stanggt]

You, sir, are someone to be looked up to and respected. This was 3 years ago and you continue to respond every single time. You might not be the BIGGEST “KZbinr” out there, but you’d be damn to find someone with more work ethic, authenticity, consistency and commitment. I like some “manly things” but I’m not a carpenter, mechanic, land scaper, etc but I find every single video totally interesting. You’ve helped me with several purchases and will continue to do so. You’re the man, please never stop and I’ll never stop watching.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@luxtempestas]

The feeling you get when you are looking for answers and find a 3yo video from PF giving it to you and you know you can trust it!

[@ProjectFarm]

I appreciate that!

[@TheJohnmatchettiero]

six year old video now with same amount of trust

[@dalemitchell8006]

I rescued a 1966 Austin Healey BJ8 that had been parked for 28 years. It was not hard to get the engine running and I just started driving it and changing the oil every 3000 miles. Each time the oil immediately turned black. I idled it for about 5 minutes with just diesel in the crankcase. It came out black. But subsequent oil changes looked brand new until the next one. I parked the car for 5 years. Now I am bringing the car back to life using your testing as a guideline. Thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

Glad to hear!

[@HP3.14]

My experience with diesel in engine oil is from when my friend bought an old Honda (car). When we opened the cylinder head on the engine, the oil had dried in so much that it looked like gravel. So the choice was to completely take down the engine or try to wash / dissolve the old oil. Here's what we did: We first drained the old oil, then mixed 10w40 with 50:50 diesel and poured it in. Let the engine run until it got hot. Drained the oil. For the second round, it was 75:25 oil: diesel. Drove the engine at idle for about 5 min. Then emptied it again. For the third time we drove in pure 10w40 to wash out the diesel. Then we drained the oil and changed the oil filter and poured in new oil. Six months later and the oil was still like new

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@shiddy.]

couldn't do that today ... the oil cost would be crazy

[@mattkrier5856]

​@@shiddy. for heavy weight diesel oil you can usually get 5 gallon buckets of it fairly cheap at the end of the season. Cheapest is 15-40 in the fall

[@neonjohn10]

@@mattkrier5856 I know that this an OLD post, but.. no one was talking about diesel OIL.. it was about using diesel FUEL as a cleaning agent for inside the block.

[@Airway222]

@@neonjohn10 I think Matt was suggesting to use Diesel engine oil in a Gas engine, as it can be cheaper. Especially in bulk. From what I hear, there shouldn't be a problem with this.

[@wamgoc3637]

Old diesel engines had oil dilution systems so that you could bleed a little fuel in the crankcase in extreme cold weather. It was an accessory on engines used in places like Alaska, north Canada, etc. The engine wouild start and when it got hot the fuel in the oil would boil off. Aircraft engines had this too, such as the Rolls Royce Merlins in the P-51. But you never wanted to use too much.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@sammorgan2390]

That's great info, sort of a history lesson

[@dragoon9082]

I absolutely have... Did a head gasket on a 3.4 Grand am... Surprise surprise lol... "Cleaned" the engine with straight diesel before the initial oil fill and start up, just to make sure it was clean. Simple cycled the engine over without the fuel pump relay a few times, and I was amazed at what came out, even after having the head cleaned and plained...

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@gazzasinkers4140]

I had to clean out an engine with a blown head gasket too, but from a 1980 Holden Commodore (oil had turned to mayonnaise). First we emptied the radiator, removed the coil lead and sump plug, then put a garden hose in the oil cap. Turned on the water and cranked the engine to remove as much gunk as possible, we washed out the oil filter with the hose and put it back on. Changed the head gasket and inspected the head, which was fine. Next we put the sump plug back in and added about 4 liters of diesel and ran the engine until warm (about 5-10 mins). Changed the oil filter, dumped the diesel out and ran some cheap oil for about 500km then an oil and filter change. The engine died about 2 years later due to an oil pickup blockage from plastic......but that is another story. All up cost of fixing the gasket in the backyard was minimal

[@williamstidham2163]

Who else comes here before we do our shopping list, Great to have a honest man to tell us the truth about the products. Thank You

[@jpop2499]

Back when I was a teenager when it came time to change the oil in my 6 cyl, 60 chevy, I added a quart of an off the shelf motor flush prior to the change. I noticed that it was a clear thin solvent. I also noticed that the idle speed was lower after adding the flush. This told me that the flush had lowered the overall lubrication of the oil. I was not thrilled with that observation and never added a flush to my oil prior to change or otherwise after that time. I don't think the 5 or 10 minutes idling significantly damaged the engine, I just did not want to subject it to that lower lubricant quality again. Fast forward 15 or so years and my dad experienced a diesel injection pump shaft seal failure that dumped a gallon or so of diesel fuel into the fresh rebuilt engine's crankcase along with the 8 to 10 quarts of motor oil. Most likely it ran this way for a few days or weeks before he discovered it. We both thought the worst, that surely engine damage ensued. However, that was 25 years ago and the tractor is still running fine. Of course he changed the oil upon discovery of the issue. So, I was actually surprised at how your lubricity tester showed visually more wear with the diesel fuel mixed with the oil. I enjoy these videos and tests. I would also like to see you split the case and inspect the bearings before and after these types of tests.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing this experience.

[@punkgunzzyoutube7728]

I've watched every single video of yours. I always give a thumb! Thank you for your videos!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!!

[@normhodgkinson6965]

you present your videos in a manner like you were talking with us, as if we were in the shop with you. you have a great presentation. when i watch your videos, i feel like i'm in the neighborhood, and i'm just stopping by to see how things are going. thank you for doing these tests.

[@dannykozuba2458]

35yrs ago i bought a56 ford f100 it had a 348/409...powerglide which was plowed up.someone offered a 68 350ci race motor/400 turbo i ran 2 qts desel on top of oil...old ran for 45 min motor looked like new..sold it to my regret...can crankcase desel do that?

[@undergod1987]

I too love your Vids.. Thanx for the time and effort.

[@homefront3162]

Halablaba Ai I did it before you!!! Lol

[@e.s.l5861]

An old timer friend of mine let me use his lift when I had to do the rear main seal on my truck. Since I was having to pull the Cats off anyways, he recommended that I do a diesel flush in my crank case. This is a guy Who I trust very much. He’s level headed with a lot of expieriance. His instructions were to put 5 gallons, yes you read that right, of diesel directly into the crank case. Then start the engine and not touching the throttle at all let it idle for five minutes. Having both cats removed was imperative he told me. I followed his instructions except I added 5 quarts of oil just because I was a bit nervous. Lots of stuff came out when I drained the block down, not terrible mind as although having high miles my truck has always gotten regular oil changes. It ran perfectly fine afterwards. I have put close to 20,000 miles on since then, with no issues. I recently had to drop the oil pan and there was no signs of shavings or anything in it.

[@Phearless7485]

I have been binge watching your videos for weeks; don’t know how I found ya but glad I did! No cussing, no agendas, just straight facts (often about products I will never own or use enough to be a factor).

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching!

[@chrisivanchev]

I've been working with diesel engines for more than 20 years. You can be concerned if some of the injectors start pouring diesel in the cylinder because eventually, it will go in the crankcase and mix with the oil but it's not a disastrous event as long as you fix the problem and change the oil. Diesel fuel has some lubrication properties but I would never recommend using it to clean the engine. I wouldn't recommend any engine cleaning product anyway. The best course of action is to change the oil on time and let the engine live its life.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point.

[@Krankie_V]

Preach brother I always try to tell people not to use any kind of engine flush

[@t7emonic792]

What about using fresh oil as a flush

[@mauriciocasotti6248]

In my engine this is happening, the diesel is going to the carter.

[@Krankie_V]

Um.... that's not a flush, that's called an oil change, guy.

[@FloridaCoastalGuy]

In 1993, I swapped 4.9L straight-six engines in a 1976 F-100 I heard about putting diesel fuel in an engine crankcase if the engine has sludge built-up. So I poured: 3 quarts 30W engine oil 1-quart transmission fluid 1-quart diesel fuel New oil filter I started the engine, I’m sitting in the driver seat watching the gauges, oil pressure needle showing pressure, just listening to the engine run; after less than a minute of running, the oil pressure fell to ZERO, I turned the engine off and drained the oil pan. I installed 5 quarts of 30W motor oil and a new oil filter, started the engine, it ran normal with good oil pressure! That truck was driven for 15 more years! I have NEVER tried this again and I would not recommend anyone else does it either. Moral: The diesel fuel thins out the engine oil too much and a cam driven oil pump cannot pump it, it’s not thick enough (Viscosity too thin)

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow! Glad the engine wasn't harmed.

[@Aj-tb5vm]

When you do a near half and half mixture why would you think that work not cause issues? Half a quart of trans fluid should be more than eno8gh

[@n2cable]

i've had great results of cutting oil with diesel before oil change. But have seen diesel work on the sludge that was clogging oil resending pick up and it jarred so much sludge loose it clogged it but that was the effect of "the diesel loosening" all the soft and hard sludge from an engine. I let it sit so all the cut oil with diesel would sit at bottom of oil pan where oil pick up got clogged again from the hard sludge. Waited a week. Drained oil/diesel (goopy mess). Did the same 1/4 ratio of diesel to cheap oil. Ran it again for 15 minutes while watching all gauges. Drained it. and oil was a little thin (as expected) and the sludge still noticible but barely there. Add just oil and filter...never had a problem again. Sheesh...I loved that truck!!!

[@JaceJackson]

You also gotta realize those engines are nearly indestructible. There has been people who have sought after to destroy one under normal circumstances. Example running with no oil, one guy ran a ford 300 which is the 4.9 for 3 years with no oil in it. He then put oil in it and ran it for another 10 years with no issues as far as I know.

[@lovotcore6946]

It had pressure at the beginning, and it took a while for the pressure to drop, sounds like it worked TOO well and it clogged the oil pickup with sludge or something.

[@harveybishop]

I used 4 qts of kerosene to clean crank case my 1949 IH Farmall Cub tractor. I ran it until the engine RPM's started to go down only a few minutes, then drained it out and changed the oil and filter. The results were great.

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

YEP...kerosene is a perfect substitute for diesel fuel. It'll clean the engine internals equally as well as diesel fuel. Just keep engine RPM between idle 2000. Best regards, Ben

[@1jonat]

I have an old chevy 350 with about 130,000 miles. It was my grandfathers so it had sat for a long time and I found a lot of sludge in the pan. It began to tap real loud as if a lifter was stuck. I removed the pan and scraped the sludge out, installed 5 qts. of 5W-30 and a pint of diesel. When I started it, it tapped and then freed up. I ran the diesel/oil mixture for about 6 minutes, drained it filled it with fresh oil and it has never tapped again. Everytime I change the oil, I add 1 pint of off-road diesel to a cold engine, run it for about 5 - 6 minutes, drain it and fill it. This really worked for me. I also do this to my small engines but with of course a lessened diesel amount. Great video thank you.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@williamsquires3070]

It’s a new Gasoline-powered parts washer! :)

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! Heated, gasoline powered parts washer--you're right!

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Darn, there goes the old saying: Gas is for washing parts, diesel is for fuel!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

That's what I use. Good paint thinner too for oil base!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

A-PLUS!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

YOU 2!

[@hiquality_distraction4084]

You're a cool dude. I don't say this much, but i like you.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@Mr.Humphrey60]

Filler_Erodo You are cool as well

[@allthehandlesweretaken]

my father tells me that mixing 1 or 2 liters of diesel into you gas tank. will help clean up the engine internals and carburetor and fuel delivery system. can you please try to mix diesel and gas at about 50:1 and see if it helps clean anything?

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this video idea!

[@waltermorgenroth7872]

Interesting... seems counterintuitive because devil is less pure than gas... I’d love to see the video!

[@milkamania69]

Walter Morgenroth yes the DEVIL is not pure are all. lol

[@bigjim5551212]

Mateo_Cafe big time smoke

[@BustedWalletGarage]

What the hell is a carburetor ? Is that where you tie the oxen to your covered wagon ?

[@Danehavenlane]

Old 6.2 diesel 230K miles. Drained oil, filled with diesel, ran 5 min cleaned out and changed oil 2 times in a week. Not sure if it made a difference but made me feel better about the abuse the engine had in the past, another 100 K so far. I was afraid of ports getting clogged, but no issues. Keep up the videos. Thanks.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks, will do.

[@franknewling1139]

I think that if you try the same test with ATF, you'll find that it cleans just as well without the damage. Mix about 1 to 10 with the oil and run it about 15 minutes, after it warms to running temperature, and check the filter. No extra metal! If you do that once a year (spring time is best for small engines) it will keep 'em happy for a long time. I use it for my vehicles. About half of a quart in the crankcase just before a oil change. And you can put the other half in the gas tank when it's down to a couple of gallons for the top end. Seems to do about the same as MMO but I think it's cheaper, around here anyway. Great videos. I like the way you try to keep it on a pretty much equal footing. Keep up the good work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@brianatherton4916]

Frank Newling I am firm believer in atf also for crankcases. diesel fuel systems. And even gasoline two cycle fuel systems

[@jameshall4385]

I don't put anything in my oil for cleaning. I just change it regularly and keep up the maintenance. I never had a sludge issue. I have bought used cars that had seen a lot of abuse, I change the oil several times and they clean right up.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting on this!

[@nicholassmerk]

Same here, I've never had sludge in my own vehicle. But I've had to deal with sludge in used vehicles.

[@kfstreich4787]

James Hall this works best with synthetic as it has better cleaning properties

[@kg4boj]

Fact of the matter is all modern oil already has detergents in it. You don't need to add anything, just change the oil and go!

[@theupscriber65]

Man I just love your videos. Reminds me of when I was 14 and used vegetable oil for a two stroke mix. My friends all said I couldn't but my moped smelled like I was making french fries and it ran fine. Only did it for one tank but didntt see any damage when we tore the engine down.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@davidmiller6010]

Laughing my ass off!

[@nickking1510]

I use diesel and veg oil cheapest I can find and some chain bar put in a garden sprayer and on a hot August or September day after leaving the sprayer in the trunk to get nice and warm I undercoat my car and truck doors rockers sub frame chassis trunk rad mount pillars fenders hood . Only way to stop rust even on summer only cars . Also only way to get over 12 years on daily drivers here in Ontario 🇨🇦

[@od11bj]

My dad showed me this trick years ago. The time/quarts in oil pan/diesel used ratio was way more than what I was taught. I used this trick on my S10 and it ran 15 before I gave it to my nephew and its still running strong. Thanks for the video I really enjoyed it.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@pokerface828]

Could you do a lubricity test with a dry bearing? I would love to be able to compare the 10w30, whatever we're testing, but also no lubricant at all.

[@ProjectFarm]

I need to do this. Thank you!

[@wills.5762]

I suggested this a while ago - I love PF and all the various product testing he does, but we sorely need a control to see what sort of difference we're actually seeing.

[@koopametalpack]

Oh yeah pleas do that man, i see all of your videos =)

[@natefigueroa]

Adam I too would like to see that. Higher viscosity equals higher pressure lower flow. Lower viscosity equals lower pressure better flow. In my mind you would think higher viscosity would cause more engine damage. Even with higher pressure you're going to have reduced flow.

[@jaakkopontinen]

Have to say that it should also be.made clear that the dent made to the bearing bears (pun not intended) much more significance than might be apparent, since the bearing widens as the dent progresses. So, a 4mm long dent and a 8mm long dent could look like "oh, it's double the wear" when it is, in fact, more like 10 or so times more (I don't know how to do the math of a volume of an indentation on the side of a cylindrical object). But yeah, I think this should be pointed out in the video as it drastically increases the significance of different sizes of dents we see - as it should. Thanks!

[@earlcowher5262]

I worked on Diesel engines for a major manufacturer. When the truck engines had a little fuel in the oil, it made a huge difference in the cleanliness of the engine, with no harm. You could see a dark ring around the wear pattern on the bearings if there was fuel in the oil though.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@jimmyp2108]

Absolutely use 1/4 diesel to oil in crankcase to clean engine. Works like a charm. Have done it on many ‘new to me’ vehicles, as you dont know the maintenance schedule followed,even if there is no signs of huge sludge build up in oil pan or in valve cover. Last one was a ‘08 G5, it had 138k km on it already, but was obviously abused. It cleaned up nicely and there is now 232k km on it. So sign of wear, runs great.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@richardross7219]

In 1967, my first car was a 1963 Pontiac with 56,000 miles. It had never had an oil change. My old man had me drain the oil and put in 3 quarts of kerosene and 1 quart of 30 wt to the crankcase. We then ran it for 15 minutes and drained it. The crap that came out was amazing. I then changed the filter and filled it with 30 wt. I used the car for 5 hours and changed the oil and filter again. I then drove the car for 3 years but had to overhaul the engine. Those old engines had much bigger tolerances than modern engines. I wouldn't do the kero again. Good video. You might think about changing out those glass baby food jars on the shelves for plastic pill bottles that won't shatter when dropped. I'm now using potato salad containers to sort my fasteners. Good Luck, Rick

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the suggestion.

[@michaelquillen2679]

Good video. The last two vehicles I had where I added diesel to the crankcase, was back in the day with my '61 GMC with a small V6, and a '69 International Harvester with a V8. I only added the diesel (a quart) just before an oil change and idled it for 5-10 minutes. I never really noticed any problems in doing this and I think it removed a considerable amount of gunk. In the early 70's I discovered Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO) and now, top this day, use it. I put the MMO into the crankcase when I am 500-1000 miles away from an oil change. With today's modern synthetic engine oils (which I use), it is probably overkill, but I still do it and do not have sludge problems with engines. Again, good video. Thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome. Thanks for sharing.

[@precool]

What’s your estimated % of diesel fuel in MMO? 🤔

[@rakmanyt]

It would be interesting to see the compression after re-running the engine with oil

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea.

[@thomascatford2627]

Modern diesel is like pish , im sure your engine would have survived with red diesel from 30yrs ago

[@robertmaybeth3434]

At the end OP mentions there was extra engine wear and a loss in compression.

[@m8s4lif]

@@ProjectFarm Regular oil around the rings should increase compression compared to only diesel. So, if you had drained the diesel and then added back oil, then ran it some, I would think that you would have gotten the compression back. Then again, I have been wrong once or twice before. Another of your great videos. Thank you for your tests.

[@landonhall1451]

When I was a Volkswagen dealer mechanic back in the 70's I encountered on several occasions vehicles that came in with an issue of high gasoline usage (pour mileage). in nearly every case (except for fuel injected cars) the problem was a leaking mechanical fuel pump diaphragm. Fuel would leak from the fuel pump down into the crankcase, thin out the oil, vent off from the heat into the crankcase ventilation system and then on to the carburetor causing a very rich fuel mixture and performance problems and smoking as well. These engines typically were in okay shape because the customers brought them in "in time". before any serious damage. We replaced the fuel pumps, changed the oil and adjusted the valves and sent them on their way. The interesting thing was the internals of these engines were extremely clean. Sparkling clean, all be it, with a slightly shorter life span.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for commenting!

[@ltr4300]

Even run across the runaway issue with a Rabbit (Golf) diesel in the 70's? Where it takes off under load starts smoking real hard and making detonation sounds, but pulls like a bear and won't back down? Then after you fight it down with the brakes you find the crankcase a couple of quarts low and the air filter sopping wet with oil? I finally had to find the 'old diesel guy' at a VW dealer to tell me why this was happening. I was working as a mechanic but this was my first diesel and I was not understanding how it was happening. The solution was pretty interesting...and simple...

[@indraexe7735]

Best content of KZbin, sincere and enjoyable, not controversy or drama, just entertainment.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks so much!

[@GreasyMoist]

I was watching your video "2-Stroke Oil in 4-Stroke Crankcase? Let's try it! " wondering how diesel would work as "oil" and found this video in suggestions... Man you never fail to amaze me with your ideas, keep it up, love you vids!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@tomadams9308]

You are easily amazed

[@nodriveknowitall702]

@@tomadams9308 Ease is relative. Though it's difficult for many, one can have a thought and not express it.

[@thegingerpowerranger]

This mower is indestructible. It's been thru so much. What happens if you put avocado inside the crank case?

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@marknelson8435]

Guacamole!

[@FredFlintstone21]

The avocado should help it run better

[@sullivan5639]

In all seriousness, avacodo oil? It's the healthy kind of fat so it may help with weight reduction in racing engines

[@kingjesus872]

Must add equal parts banana

[@ej254]

This guy must become the US president. The whole earth need good guys like him ✌😁

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching.

[@pauljachens4181]

He replied what this 1 year old

[@ej254]

@@pauljachens4181 You are 2 weeks old 😅

[@pauljachens4181]

@@ej254 I still don't know how you got a reply

[@ej254]

@@pauljachens4181 He is a good guy and I respect him. Lets just enjoy his work/videos and not argue 👌

[@andrewgunnels4192]

I know this is an older video, but to add my personal experience- I had a jeep a couple years back, and it was horribly neglected, sludged up… I first drained the oil, left the filter with oil on it, and added diesel… probably 80% diesel mix… idled the engine for 15-20 minutes, drained it all off, new filter, and ran 50% diesel, 50% 10w30, idled for another 15-20 minutes. Finally drained it all, and went back to 100% oil and a new filter. It did a good job clearing sludge from the valve cover, and top of the head. I believe the key is to not load the engine, or rev it… that jeep is still on the road today with no knocks or any noises

[@gregoryfairchild2460]

Just a side note. I would only do this on extremely dirty engines where the sludge is more of a danger than the diesel. Not on a slightly dirty engine.

[@derikhackney9582]

I had a 95 Camry, for some reason oil wasn't making it to the oil filter. I put a quart of diesel in it ran for 5 minutes. It unclogged it. Changed the oil and filter it was fine after that.

[@jeremiahpike6372]

I've heard of people cleaning specifically the oil system with diesel but never running the engine with it in the crankcase. Keep spinning up the oil pump to clean all the passages out.

[@nickking1510]

Gregory Fairchild my experience doing this is only add a pint or 500 ml and only idle the engine till warm do not drive it , on really badly slugged neglected engine I would remove valve covers and manually remove it or you risk plugging oil pick up screen and destroying what’s left of your neglected engine .The main cause of sludge is not changing the oil ,plugged PCV system and not enough oil changes

[@jeremiahpike6372]

Our shop has had good results replacing 1 quart of oil with 1 quart of WD-40 and idling the engine for 3-4 hours to clean them out. WD-40 is at least "A" lubricant where as diesel really is not a good lubricant.

[@Oblithian]

Well most of these tricks work by thinning the oil to make it brake down sludge. But I would rather go with added detergents than thinner oil.

[@AndroidAppGuy]

Suggestion for the "grand finale" of that engine - use dish soap in the crank case. I bet it blows some good bubbles out the crankcase vent before it dies.

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! What a great recommendation!

[@throttlebottle5906]

it would start and seize about as quickly as it started with minimal smoke show :)

[@AndroidAppGuy]

Maybe throttle bottle - but if you've watched his other video's, there's been some surprises for what does and doesn't happen when you put "non-oil" in the crankcase. :-)

[@DjayLSD]

would be nice to see how much boost a stock lawnmower engine could take from an IHI RHB31 Turbo ^^ Could also be a fun gokart project ;)

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this video idea!

[@DjayLSD]

YOURE WELCOMED and keep up the good work!!!

[@martijnvandijken2157]

Yeah a turbo on a lawnmower engine I would like to see that

[@johns3655]

Has to be a Tiny one

[@whatsinanamethatthecaptive577]

A turbo would be really cool. 30 years ago I installed a car smog pump as a blower (super charger) on my go-kart engine. Mounted the carburetor on the intake of the pump and the output to the engine. It is belt driven just like in the car. It doubled the horse power with about 7 to 10 PSI into the engine. A smog pump was used in the late 70's and early 80's to pump extra air into the exhaust to help meet the exhaust emission standards.

[@shawn576]

It's great that you have so many videos going back so many years. I was watching random sludge videos and the comments on those said to try putting diesel in the oil and flushing it that way. I search if anyone has tried that, and your video was the top result. The comments on this video are fascinating too. This channel has the best community.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@pospc2]

Revisiting this can't believe it's been 2 years already. You seem much more comfortable on camera now. I have never used diesel as a flush but have ran about half a quart of ATF and half quart of MMO mix as a cleaner for a neglected engine(2 oil changes in 5 years and 60k miles) for the last 50 or so miles before the change. I don't know if it's working or not but haven't seen any concerning amount of metal and no strange sounds. Honestly if something happened to the engine it gives me a reason to crack into it 😂. One thing I have always wanted to see is if dish soap and water misted into the intake would clean the engine.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@jacknorgan8706]

I appreciate all the hard work you do on these videos. Regarding the diesel in the motor to clean the motor. In an extreme case of sludge in an old Buick motor my friends father took off a valve cover and saw all this sludge built up in the head. It's was almost like a jello mold of the inner valve cover. So we all got a turn scraping the gunk. So in order to rinse out the rest. He put in 1/2 kerosene and oil. And ran the engine and drained out the oil. It was all black and lumps were plopping into the drain pan. So bright idea to put straight kerosene and go for a drive. After dumping in a gallon or so he takes it for a short drive. He got on the freeway in his trust wildcat and after along time their house phone rings and its the old man a few miles away the with a thrown rod and hole in pan. So after getting it home and him having to take the bus to work all week we pull the motor and put a junk yard motor in the next weekend. Thinking the oil pick up got fouled and spun bearings until 2 siezed and the rods came out. One was stuck in the frame in a hole it pierced. I follow your channel all the time is a favorite. Thanks

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks and you are welcome!

[@joeveto]

After watching this video, this morning, I pulled a quart of oil out of my '95 Jeep YJ 2.5 cyl with 165K, and replaced it with a quart of diesel. I let it run 4 minutes. The engine was warm. Afterwards, I changed the oil and filter and took it for a drive. First thing I noticed, as you'd expect, the oil was very thin and poured out of the crankcase quickly. The second thing I noticed, was that the oil pressure took a solid 3 Mississippi to register and hit normal. I don't remember this happening before. I don't notice any change in the way the engine sounds or runs. It's still pretty noisy, though I think that's just the way this thing is, especially when cold. I don't think I'd do this again, as I didn't really see any benefit. I also don't think the engine was dirty to begin with, just has a noisy lifter or two when cold. I hope this feedback helps.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@aland7236]

When I was a kid I was helping my Grandpa service a mower just like yours. We ran the engine with the spent oil in it to get it warm to get it to drain more easily. After draining the oil out we filled the crankcase with gasoline and let it sit for a little while. Later on we kind of shook the mower around a bit and then drained the gasoline out of the crankcase and let it sit open on both ends to let the gas evaporate off. Then we put fresh oil in and went on cutting grass. I suppose the case was cleaner than before, but we didn't take notes. We had to throw out the gas, which is wasteful, but this was in the days of something like $0.90/gal fuel. Thank you for your research and demonstrations.

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.

[@michaellittlejohn8723]

I Recommend this Show to every Intelligent Human i encounter. Next time show us something that you use religiously on your motor vehicles but haven't shown us yet. Keep up the Fantastic work.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you very much!

[@bigglesthwaite]

By the way, thank you very much for your videos. I’ve watched several of them and they are all informative, well presented and educational. Great work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@KowboyUSA]

This going to solve some mysteries that I've pondered for many years. I've used diesel mixed with motor oil as a crankcase cleaner, but have always wondered what straight diesel would do to engines.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@Toro-Tor]

@ 4:03 Thank you for investing in our product (the red lawnmower). I´m sure it will give you many more hours of trouble-free service - if not, give us a call just kidding

[@ProjectFarm]

lol Thanks for watching.

[@johnnyo3fan]

Is it possible that metal flakes were already present, suspended in the gunk in the engine, and the diesel just helped to rinse it out?

[@geongeo]

That was the first thing I thought of when I saw all of the metal in the drained oil.

[@ohyeahthatsright3155]

Absolutely not.

[@slew6961]

That what I thought also

[@cwbutler47591]

@@ohyeahthatsright3155 Why would you say "absolutely not" It could have very well been in the pan What would you base that assumption on?

[@kookookala6251]

Just want to say thank you for doing all these tests. Very interesting to see how all products work. Keep up the good work and God bless

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the positive comment!

[@DiHandley]

Definitely one of the better KZbin channels! 😀👍

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@sirsweetness8332]

David Handley You are so right! PF is awesome and is my go to YT channel. If I am doing research or need to know something I put it in the search field followed by “project farm”.

[@DanneyTanner]

I've been working on small engines and car engines for 40 years. I would never suggest to anybody to put straight diesel in a crankcase. But what I found has worked very good for cleaning the inside of a motor is atf. That has never caused any damage to an engine that I've had. And if you're really worried about sludge just change your engine oil a little bit earlier every time instead of later. One thing that sludge is the engine up pretty fast is if you drive it short distances in cold weather. And you don't give the engine time enough to get good and warm and get the moisture out of it

[@HarmonHeat]

I'm not mechanic but I'd bet the best thing is to change your oil with some cheap oil, wait a day or two after driving and then change it again with good stuff. I'd think that would help clean it without the chance of damage.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point!

[@o1mtbiker]

justen sr or just change when it’s recommended and don’t go over your mileage. If you use cheap oil. Make sure you know what they put in it, as paraffin is popular in cheaper oils.

[@bicboi1930]

Agreed. Maybe with top oil and a top filter changed every 5-6k wouldn't even build up sludge In the first place....

[@o1mtbiker]

Mark Wright umm if you say so, If it has no additives then how do they get it to be 10w30 and not just straight 30? Lol that’s right with additives. Never said it had detergents in it.

[@HarmonHeat]

Like I said, not a mechanic. But I bought a truck with over 250,000 miles and I would like to know how to remove carbon and sludge without taking it all apart. The info in this guys videos is pretty darn good.

[@PapiDoesIt]

I inherited an old LTD that had only one oil change in 82K miles. I removed the valve covers and could not see the rocker arms! I added a quart of diesel to the crankcase and let it idle for 10 minutes. When I changed the oil, it looked like black cottage cheese! The car lasted another 3 years.

[@ProjectFarm]

Wow! It seems to have helped a lot! Thanks for commenting on this!

[@GoPaintman]

What happened after those 3 years?

[@splash5974]

ByteVenom He sold it at Barret-Jackson 🤣

[@AtimatikArmy]

Haha, awesome!!

[@colinkraus7139]

splash ha ha ha ha!!!!!!! Hilarious.

[@heavymechanic2]

Don't use Bio-Diesel (B99) because it swells all the seals. As an oil change flush, diesel really cleans out burnt oil with minimal effort. I believe Marvels Mystery oil works equally as well but takes longer... I put 5% diesel in my oil and drove the car for a minimum of 100 miles and it really cleaned out some deposits causing drivability problems (sticking valves). A little diesel was also added to the gas tank during the cleanout process, and it made a huge improvement.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the video idea!

[@bearingef]

I bought a cheap used car. On the drive home it turned out engine was leaking oil. The oil light turned on and I shut it off and added all the oil I had brought on the trip. Later when the oil light turned on, I shut it off and managed to coast to a gas station. It was the middle of the night, the shop was closed, so my only option was to fill the crankcase with what they had at the pump. I used diesel. After diluting the oil with lots of diesel, I had to keep it at a high rpm to get sufficient oil pressure, or the oil light turned on. The car reached home that night, but developed a bad noise... The engine seized the next day when I drove it to town to buy oil... Thanks for showing the lubrication properties of diesel. Now I gave a better understanding of why thar engine didn't survive that! =)

[@tarquineous]

I've used a small amount, like 5 percent right before an oil change. It does help clean out the engine. I think the important factor to consider is having enough anti wear additive in the crankcase lubricant.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@johndownes9342]

I had a friend who, when working on a dirty engine, would drain the oil, fill with diesel fuel, and run the engine for about 10 seconds then drain and fill with oil. Claimed it cleared the sludge without damage.

[@et76039]

@@johndownes9342, the running time is probably key. This video does make clear that the loss of lubricity in diesel does do damage. If your friend was running the engine only ten seconds, then it didn't get warm enough to thin out the diesel fuel. Whether that would be enough time to do the flush and clean would be the subject of another test.

[@mmllmmll22]

Here in poland few people using diesel as cleaner are doing like 50/50 with oil. Fresh oil, clean diesel. Let it run at ~1500rpm for around 15 mins (in some cases up to 30) and drain. Fill with oil and go.

[@tarquineous]

I would say that's a maybe, but only if the diesel and motor oil is mixed well before filling the crankcase. I would add a few ounces of anti wear additive such as Bestline or Motorkote. My only concern is the anti wear ability of the mix. Remember his first test at 1:30 to 2:00, using motor oil vs pure diesel fuel. The scoring on the metal was much more with the diesel fuel. How they work after mixing would tell us a lot! @@mmllmmll22

[@igotajopamerica3040]

I have an another IDEA for you!!someone told me I'm crazy, but over the years I've taken some vehiclesthat sat for years never started. 1.I first drain the oil then put oil plug back in. 2. Then I put the vehicle on a trailer pull up to gas station and fill up the engine oil area (crankcase) with diesel fluid to the top. 3. I drive around for a couple hours on back roads shacking up the diesel fluid cleaning out the sludge. 4. Pull oil plug on trailer, making a catch system to a bigger container on the ground. 5. Then change plugs,wires,etc. 6. Put oil plug back in with new oil and filter run a little while then drain and do another oil change. Clean motor. Worked everytime, you should try this so people don't think I'm crazy.😂

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for the video idea!

[@rivervalleyfarm482]

Remember old diesel had a high sulfur content which added to it's lubricity. Diesel fuel after 2009 I think has no sulfur, and diesel injection components have to be built out of other stuff now.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point regarding ULSD.

[@mercedes-amgforlife3237]

It was 2007 when they required ULSD. It was 500 PPM and now it is only 15 PPM. Might want to add a diesel lubricity additive like Power Service or such and see what it does. Also would like to see the Motorkote oil additive added with the diesel to see what happens.

[@markmiskolczi233]

In my truck or any of our equipment I always use additives seems to help old wore out engines from smoking as much and such

[@CaptHollister]

Kyle Throckmorton modern diesels don't need any additives and many manufacturers specifically recommend against using them. If you have an older diesel and are worried about injector pump longevity, a simple and effective solution is to add a small amount of two-stroke oil to the fuel.

[@nigel900]

I drove a heavy diesel truck for many years. There was a situation once where an injector seal failed inside the valve cover resulting in a phenomenon called “making oil”, (when diesel fuel leaks into the engine oil causing overfill). The first indication while driving was the oil pressure gauge starting to gradually dip, and eventually triggering the low oil pressure warning light that automaticity shuts the engine down. Checking the oil dipstick showed 2 gallons over fill (normally 10 gallons of engine oil). When in the shop we pulled the oil pan off to inspect and found it to be very clean. Only 2 gallons fuel mixed with 10 gallons of 15w40 was enough to critically thin the oil. Didn’t drive too far, but I’m sure there was excessive wear. Good video.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@waltercox4577]

Loved the video, how about comparing diesel cleaning vs over the counter "engine flush"

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@seanerobertson32]

Basically the same thing, motor flush is kerosene which is almost diesel.

[@timmywalton9009]

I always flush with diesel every service

[@jeeptrail08]

Kerosene is pretty popular to add to the oil for cleaning the block

[@ProjectFarm]

I might try this if there's enough interest

[@boots7859]

Yep, my dad was a hot rodder and master mechanic in NY. Kerosene was what was general used to desludge, not diesel.

[@northroad1]

Kerosene aka diesel #1

[@o1mtbiker]

I don’t remember the exact name of it but it was motor flush, came in a can like oil use to. It was nothing but kero, and cost like 5-6 bucks. Someone got rich of that repackaging lol

[@lewiemcneely9143]

Works better than diesel but you can't run it as long OR add more oil with it. Thins out everything more.

[@ifvaly]

I have been using diesel to flush engines for years, and the results are remarkable. Oh Well another amazingly documented video from PF. Great to have you on this platform!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks!

[@thepubliceye]

Diesel has changed and now is a really poor lubrication as the sulfur has been removed.

[@mukundthorat5672]

How are your engine oil seals holding up

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@thepubliceye Kerosene is a perfect substitute for diesel fuel for cleaning the internals of an engine. With either, it's important to keep the engine RPM at 2000 & below. Best regards, Ben

[@jayballuk]

2022 testing methods here, it's great to see how you are constantly updating the testing methods also like adding a 'splash guard' on the bearings test for example

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@trevorcunning6248]

I have a infiniti g37 with a very complex engine due to the vvel systen and variable valve timing. I got the car with 160,000 miles on it and holy sludge. I've use strait diesel to flush the engine and didn't notice a difference. Then tried 4 quarts oil, 1 quart kerosene and that did the trick. Cleaned all kinds of nasty stuff out.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great information! Thank you

[@GeyserPumps]

When you used straight diesel how long did you run the car for?

[@trevorcunning6248]

@@GeyserPumps 5 minutes at idle. Don't rev it. Don't drive it just let it idle and do it's job. It flushed out soooooooo much shit I actually had chunks of shit come out.

[@LemmingRush_]

@@trevorcunning6248 that's awesome, thanks for the information. I feel like five mins is pushing the length, but at idle it's probably fine. Is your car turbocharged?

[@trevorcunning6248]

@@LemmingRush_ definitely not. N/A all the way! with a car with that many miles on it if I turbocharged it it most likely would become a grenade.

[@NitroGuyJH]

I love your little engine window. Pretty darn nifty man!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you

[@anthonygreenfield123]

Enjoyed it too 👍🏻

[@Timbre4E]

"Loss of Lubricity" sounds like a terrible Lifetime Original Movie.

[@allthoseclips582]

"Starring Meryl Streep and J. K. Rowling"

[@spirorevelis7100]

Which leads to another great idea....Use ky in place of oil. After all it was formulated especially for rods and to assist with pumping pistons.

[@spirorevelis7100]

@@EAMitch Thank you sir. Sometimes a good laugh is the best medicine in a world that's gotten way too serious.

[@scottyj6226]

Why do you only have 80-some-odd likes? That's hilarious

[@donaldmurphy8435]

Our son has a Subaru that had at least 2 overheats before getting new cylinder head gaskets. It was down significantly on power and low end pull. Put 1 quart of diesel in the crankcase before an oil change, idled it for 30 mins, revved it for 5 minutes at 3000 rpm (no load). Drained the oil/diesel mixture. It had a VERY dark & sooty color as it was draining. Filled it with new oil and most of the power was restored. It had the typical off-idle pull that Subarus are known for back. My guess is that the diesel helped restore cylinder ring seal that had been affected by the old oil baking around the rings, and the diesel helped to un-sludge them. Hooe this helps. God bless!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@brade5874]

I've used diesel only to clean and remove water from engine. Only run it for about 10 minutes until lifters start ticking and getting warm. Works well for inboard engines that have filled completely with water from sinking or boat fills up with rain. Gets the starter every time

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@WineScrounger]

Lawnmower: [arrives on Todd’s farm] so many new friends! Later: 😭

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for watching!

[@ArtVanAuggie]

These tests have their origins with '60s and before engines. Valves and seals were crap back in the day. Almost always, a valve job was necessary at 40k miles. Engines would carbon-up because of exhaust gas going pretty much wherever it wanted. We used to clean (flush) an engine by getting it hot, draining the oil, filling with kerosene (sometimes a quart of oil to the kero), starting the engine and running AT IDLE for 10 minutes, the drain and refill with oil. Never hurt an engine that we could tell.

[@ProjectFarm]

Great point. Thanks for commenting on this.

[@horiatomescu]

Completely agree, tried it too, and works

[@modelnutty6503]

yup, did it to un-gum a lifter in my '71 Nova too. 1 quart kerosene in the oil and let it run 1/2 hr kinda fast idle no load, then oil change. it was quieter for about a year anyway, always 1-2 of em start clicking as they age.

[@ltr4300]

i've just overfilled them one quart with kero or diesel, drive it around 15-20 mins, and change the oil. Some amazing shit has come out of some of the more neglected ones. I tell them to change it again after 500 miles, get out any solvent residues and any shit that was slow getting to the bottom. But yeah, it never hurt anything...but these were neglected motors that were in bad shape to begin with and would have died without cleaning up the oiling system. One's return holes from the top were so narrowed with crud that if you ran it over 2000 rpm for more than 10-15 seconds the oil light would come on,...the crankcase was going dry, it was all up in the top...crazy...

[@kennethsouthard6042]

When I was in the Air Force, many of our trucks would just idle pretty much 24/7.. Supposedly this would build up carbon deposits in the valves. Every so often on midnight shift we would get permission from the tower and run the vehicles flat out and make three or four passes down the ten thousand foot runway. This was supposed to clear out the catbon. Don't know if it's helped or not but it was sure fun.

[@Tezvt]

I’ve used it as a flush on a Hyundai with an oil pressure issue. Pure diesel & idled for 10 mins. Fixed the issue & car still runs fine 8 years later.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing.

[@richardperry21]

FYI: In the aircraft I learned to fly 1932 Beechcraft D-17, It was an approved procedure for cold weather opps. to turn a valve which adds fuel to the 5gallon oil reservoir. Fuel would evaporate after a few hours of operation.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for the feedback.

[@OhHeyItsBilly]

You’ve got a great channel here and it’s extremely interesting! I love it! Keep up the good work!

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@electronicsNmore]

That engine sacrificed it's life for a good cause. :-)

[@ProjectFarm]

LOL! Always great to have a comment from such a great KZbin channel! Thank you!

[@carriersignal]

May it rest in piece.

[@evil16v1]

No bit you can use it to break it loose, clean it, but dump it out and pump oil through before starting. Quickly change oil again after that...

[@evil16v1]

Keep in mind the sulferbis gone out of the diesel now.

[@specialagentdustyponcho1065]

DUDE SPOILERS

[@clintmcdonald6838]

My Dad was a very good Mechanic and did things his own way!! I learned a ton from him!! He use to put a pint to a quart of diesel fuel (kerosene)in the crankcase of his engines, Car, Truck, Tractors, it didnt matter,,,,,, every winter. He used it to thin the oil, so they would start easier when it was really cold. I DON"T EVER REMEMBER HIM HAVING ENGINE TROUBLE.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing!

[@Dave_Menz_p4p_number_1]

How much destruction will there be if you use heavy gear lube like 90w in stead of oil

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this video idea!

[@pizzablender]

90W is actually not that heavy. The number is high, to stop people mixing up gear and engine oils (additives are very different). See www.autoangels.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/viscosity_03_600-450x374.jpg -> 90k gearbox oil spans the range of SAE40-60.

[@Dave_Menz_p4p_number_1]

according to that chart it is over 10 times thicker than 15w

[@rogertycholiz2218]

Radial (round) engines during WW2 used SAE90 crankcase oil as it was manufacturers recommendations.

[@ltr4300]

In a motor that depends on pressurized film (hydrostatic) bearings it can be a problem if the oil won't physically "fit" through the system well enough. In a small engine like these that splash -oil and use rollers it probably wouldn't make much difference UNLESS it proved to flow too slowly to maintain the correct level, slow return to crankcase. I knew a guy that was nursing a POS '83 Ford Crown Vic with over 300,000 miles on it. The mains were terribly worn and the thrust bearing was so shot the crank had about 3/8" in-out drift, he ran it on 80w90 and it worked for quite a while because those mains were so wallowed it couldn't hold oil pressure to the top with a regular grade of oil. When it did fail finally it was a very cold morning and it spun the oil pump drive rod into a neat piece of ornamental metal...spiraled it before it snapped. Pretty neat.

[@TachySteve]

I want to see what astroglide does inside a motor and on the lube test! I was told that you could park a Cadillac in a dog house with that stuff.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this video idea!

[@TimothyMichaels]

TachySteve Cadillac/Doghouse... lmao. 😂

[@compzac]

I've heard the cadillac doghouse idea with astroglide, but in an engine id image quite a problem, astroglide is water based so it would burn off quickly and well as far as i know with astroglide it becomes quite sticky when the water burns off

[@saxdogg69]

zachary carlson trust me, yes it does 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@TachySteve]

zachary carlson *insert sticky pushrod joke here* lmao

[@MiscerVids]

Do a video on the best and fastest rust removal. CLR vs Evaporust vs naval jelly vs vinegar vs wd40 vs electrodes in baking soda water vs whatever, etc etc etc

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you for this video idea!

[@Anonymous-it5jw]

Project Farm If you use vinegar for such a project, try 30% vinegar slightly warmed, with no dilution (Amazon sells it, you can’t get it locally). I think you’ll be happy with the results. If you do electrolysis, use washing soda, not baking soda, for best results - both sold under the Arm & Hammer brand name. (Refer to videos by Shopdog Sam, who really understood the electrolysis process.) Keep up the good work.

[@MrTylerg506]

Fluid film

[@MiscerVids]

Fluid film is great stuff

[@larrystrayer8336]

The above would be interesting and very informative.

[@nettles89]

Not on purpose. I bought a used truck a few months ago, quickly discovered it was leaking diesel into the crankcase at very fast rate. I spent a very stressful and expensive week finding out one of the injectors was cracked, and since they weren't stock and weren't identifiable, I had to replace all six. As far as I know, I managed to address the problem before it caused any major damage inside the engine, but I still need to do an oil analysis next time I change it. Your vid helped me see what it actually does in an engine, thanks!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@mylanmiller9656]

Your test methods are great keep up the good work! And thanks for all the effort you put into your tests!

[@ProjectFarm]

You are welcome!

[@CentralOregonShenanigans]

you do a great job on your videos keep them coming

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@smjones4238]

This was in 1976: Bought a 66 Pontiac Tempest with a 389 2bbl in it. Oil was BLACK but full on the stick, drained out 3 1/3ish quarts of hot tar, changed filter. Filled with 5 quarts of diesel, showed about 1/2" over on the stick. Idled for about 15 minutes. Idle oil pressure dropped from 30 with the tarry original oil to a little over 15 on the diesel. Drained out about 6 1/2ish quarts of mud. Changed filter again filled with 5 quarts of diesel again. Idled for 10 minutes oil press still at 15+, drained out about 6 quarts of very dirty diesel. Replaced filter again, filled with 5 quarts of Valvoline 20 wt. Idled for 10 min, oil pressure rose to about 25. Drove 25ish miles. Drained out a little over 5 quarts, kinda dirty, including filter. Replaced filter again, filled with 5 quarts of Valvoline 20w50. Engine had gained an immense amount of power over this experiment. It had multiple noisy lifters when I started the process, they had quieted down nicely by the end. Exhaust / blow-by smoke was pretty bad at the beginning, nothing visible by the end. Numerous oil leaks popped up on the valve covers and one on the rear corner of the oil pan, snugging the bolts fixed them. I used new cheapie filters with the diesel to make sure they didn't plug up, used Napa Gold for final. On the next oil change, I added a qt of Slick 50. HEY! It was supposed to work! (1976) I wouldn't have done anything so severe if the engine was in better running condition to begin with. Have had several friends copy my method with several different vehicles with mixed results. Consensus is: if it may be a basket case, not much is lost by doing this and it may find a gem in hiding. I will do the add a quart of diesel, not to exceed 25% of total oil, to a warm engine and idle for 10 minutes before changing oil if oil is dirtier than normal. Stopped the Slick50 years ago. Not very scientific, but dead reckoning tempered with experience, sneak up on doing this, you could cost yourself some serious money. There are NO miracles, only little tweaks. Good Luck! 68 yr old retired electronics geek. Michael in Colorado.

[@ProjectFarm]

Very impressive results! Thank you for sharing this experience!

[@nickking1510]

Hi Mike agreed I used slick 50 also back then even added a few oz to my 50 hp evinrude lower unit and sometimes to gas oil mix had the boat 10 years got my money back when I sold it and it caught lots of fish lolol. Project farm had a great review on motorkote been using it ,my experience is it lowers friction as witnessed on my 14.5 used mower and weed eater also add to my mint2006 2.8 cts and 2006 gxp ls4 and 351w 1977 searay

[@nickking1510]

Project Farm sold on motorkote , I bought a mint but uncertified 2006 cts cheap from a new Kia dealership, it was sluggish but motor was in good shape no chain issues.I did an upper induction cleaning and decarboning ran a pint of diesel at idle no load in the engine and drained a while later and added new oil filter and 6oz motorkote cleaned mass sensor did brakes new good years oil undercoat safety checked . The car ran like new way more power increased gas mileage 32mpg imperial gallon Canadian on freeway 👍

[@derekdobbins7869]

I tried that diesel with oil mix one time on a older car,it cleaned the crank case to good caused a rod to knock, the car was closed closed to wore out before that,did a inflame overall fixed that issue, I've done a lot of projects in the past much like yours,I would like to see wood gas engine projects, I'm trying to find the time to them to get her myself,I have enjoyed your videos,they have saved me a lot of trials and errors

[@ProjectFarm]

Thanks for sharing

[@tcmtech7515]

I've been doing the diesel flush in ratios up to the better part of 50% for 20+ years and have never had a problem with any engine regardless of its age or application. Same thing for flushing hydraulic systems with 100% diesel as well or for winter hydraulic oil thinning work where it's common to mix things to 20% diesel just to get fluids to work properly in -15F and lower temps. Zero issues ever there too.

[@ProjectFarm]

Thank you!

[@karryhardman8735]

You do know that most hydraulic fluid systems are made for nonflammable fluids and there is a reason for that?