Promaster Van Build DIY Roof Rack and Clip System Detail Video for Vanlife Promaster Sprinter design

[@Growyourheirlooms]

Whoever told you to use stainless steel bolts is wrong. Stainless steel is a carbon steel alloy and very reactive to aluminum. The best thing to use is aluminum or zinc plated bolts.

[@VanOfAction]

Grow Your Heirlooms - thanks for taking the time to comment ! As a carpenter I'm happy to say I don't understand any of the talk about this stuff. maybe I got lucky and just happened to have the right kind. So far no signs of any kind of breaking down. I'm on the roof to clean the solar every couple days when we're on the road so keeping an eye on it will be easy. Switching things out if necessary will no be a big deal. Be well

[@michaeljuers574]

This is way more complicated. I don’t believe an aluminum bolt would be nearly strong enough and a zinc bolt is likely to have the zinc plating scratch off and the corrosion would be worse. You can use isolation washers but the general consensus is stainless is a good option. To quote a supplier “While many people worry that stainless steel fasteners, such as screws, bolts, nuts, or host of other options, won't work with aluminum due to the risk of galvanic corrosion between the two very different metals, the truth is that stainless steel is the metal of choice for fasteners to secure your aluminum materials”.

[@janemack1933]

Thanks for re-visiting this part of your project, Dave. Excellent recap and good to see the clip didn’t seem be causing any rust problems around the T-Pin. I gather our version of it will be constructed on our van next week. 👏👏👏 🥳

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Jane - thanks for visiting and commenting - yes no rust or breakdown at all !!! I'll be keeping an eye on it. Be sure to send my some photos of your rack !! Be well

[@kevingalloway9338]

Yep brilliant again.

[@VanOfAction]

Thank you Kevin - if you don't use it yourself please share - roof racks are an aftermarket racket I believe .... be safe from VanOfAction.com

[@jamescoler866]

We solved the wrench issue and the head of the nutnthickness issue by using carriage bolts and filing our holes square. Loved your solution and we are using it!

[@VanOfAction]

Hey James. That’s great. I didn’t have the ambition to file the holes square. When you’re done send. Me some photos [e-mail]. I want to put together a compilation of how others made my design better. Be well and stop back. Dave.

[@mingueyox]

A crack of a job. Hell of a beautiful place you are living in. I love Canada and BC... Why not use carriage bolts to avoid the spinning and the low clearance problem? But of course, you would need squared holes in the aluminum... Just an idea. Thanks for your vids 👍👍👍

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Mingueyox ! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes we are really blessed to live where we do - it was a covid move (I thank the stars every morning that my kids didn't all find work in Saskatoon !!) You're right ! Carriage bolts would avoid the spinning issue, and you're also right I'd need to drill square holes. WAY ABOVE my pay grade !!! Be well and stop back.

[@rogerdeaver9038]

That's what yard sales are for , extra wrenches. I have followed all of your videos.👍

[@VanOfAction]

Thanks Roger !!! I really hope you find something useful.

[@TOTALLYRELAXED]

I of course watched your original video making the clips to mount on top of the Promaster manufactured ones…but, I have to be completely honest: in all the eight years since retiring from the trucking industry (2015) I have watched a LOT of videos about mounting solar panels AND roof racks…I have NEVER EVER seen one that was as, firstly, better than any manufactured one than yours! Secondly, for being a carpenter and claiming not to know anything about metal you have surely done a superb job! Thirdly, absolutely beautiful, perfect spacing on both sides of your the solar panels, and, the precise way you ran the electrical wiring was very pretty as well! And, fourthly (is that a word? Lol), your attention to detail and your fabrication abilities amaze me! I’m not easily impressed usually, but, your work blows me away! 👏👏👏 Onward to your next video of choice! Safe travels! ~Jim~ (PS: what are you and your wife’s names?)

[@VanOfAction]

Hey Jim - this roof clip system and roof rack really turned out much better / cleaner / easier than I could have ever hoped. I shoot my videos as I go - so the process is captured and this one really makes me smile. The system has been copied by DIY Van builders in the UK, Canada, USA, Australia and New Zealand - which makes me really happy and I just know how the builders feel when they see the results of what they did ........ I love getting the notes or being mentioned in their videos ..... it's been such a hoot !!!! ( last week I added an awning and it looks like it grew there) Dave

[@cgauthier5094]

great job man !!!

[@VanOfAction]

Thanks for watching and the positive energy !!! I'm having so much fun with this .... be well and stop back .. Dave

[@ToddyWestbeach]

Brilliant design. I’d love to pick your brain. I am looking to add a roof system on my promaster to transport long tubing that won’t fit inside the van. I’m thinking about stealing your clip idea and mounting two on one side, then maybe mounting some rubber on the clip and roof for anti slip. I would then simply place the tubing directly on the van roof (rubber) and vice clamping to your clips. It doesn’t solve my issue with the vice clamps potentially loosening and material sliding forward or backward during hard braking. Mainly would be used to transport stainless steel 1-1/2” square or round tubing. Thanks for your time!

[@VanOfAction]

Hi SpeedChaser - Thanks so much for watching and making such a nice comment - My whole life there's been an ongoing debate about how much brain is actually up there but you'd be welcome to pick away as much as you like. I'm afraid I don't really understand, from your comment, what you're trying to do and what problem you see yourself having. If you'd like to kick around some ideas maybe best to email me ..... [e-mail] and we can go from there. Otherwise be well and stop back .... Dave

[@Ellie_Melloy]

I already watched your bracket video but this is just brilliant. I hope you don't mind but I'm going to steal the whole idea for my van lol.

[@VanOfAction]

Elliot !! Thanks for watching and steal away. Send me some photos when you’re done !!! [e-mail] Be well.

[@heathers_home_videos]

Did you notice much of a change in mpg since adding the rack? I guess it doesn’t really matter haha you gotta have it! I believe I’ll copy your design and enlist the help of my machinist uncle! Thanks for the videos!!

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Heather - I noticed no significant difference in MPG after the rack was on. Truthfully, I don't pay a lot of attention to MPG, as we travel we find the price of gas varies so much form day to day that it all gets lost in the conversation. There are several videos about the roof rack on the channel ... starting with this one kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJLOpal4nc-aeNE - i It would make me smile if you copy it - send me some phots and let me know how it goes .... On a side note this week I installed an awning !!!! Really excited - video this Saturday !! .... be well and stop back. ...... Dave

[@robertserra9790]

Excellent video and content. I took your advice and built similar brackets made from 3x3 aluminum angle which a 1 inch rip cut was along its 3 inch length resulting in a 2x3 x1/8 channel. Instead of hex head bolts I used carriage bolts to prevent the need to hold the heads from turning below the bracket. I cut slightly smaller holes in the bracket and then pounded the carriage bolts heads into the channel to cut the square holes for the carriage bolt heads. Then finally I mounted 2x3 box aluminum as the long side rails on the outside of the brackets to gain more width between the rails. I then installed 3 roof trac (solar rails) between these 2 long rails each with 4 1x1 aluminum brackets with bolts and pop rivets. All hardware was stainless steel to prevent corrosion. Thanks for providing such detailed instructions.

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Robert - so good to hear from you !! Thanks for reaching out. Is there any way you can share some photos ? There are a number of people around the world that have copied / modified / improved my clips and I'm trying to put together a video thinking the variations may inspire others. Email to [e-mail] .... I'm sure I'll have questions ..... Dave

[@iancooke8055]

Brilliant! Everything is so well thought out. Thanks for posting. Love your channel!

[@VanOfAction]

ian - thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment - I enjoy doing these videos and hopefully this is helping others along the way - be well

[@seelafever]

I really like every detail. I have thought about doing it this way for a while but saw how the commercial units work and have second thoughts. My one question is...The way you attach to the nubs all the pressure is down on the nub. Other systems actually put the weight on the roof on either side of the nub once tightened down. I was just wondering how these different methods compare. Great work and I really appreciate you putting this video together. Cheers.

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Chad - thanks for watching and taking the time to share your thoughts - in the conversation everyone wins !!!! I understand your question. This is the way this carpenter looked at it. Yes - almost every other clip design I've seen seems to put some weight on the roof. I'm not certain if that's for the purpose of holding the rack in place by putting downward stress on the NIBs, or for holding stuff up. But the one thing I'm certain of is NONE of them used anything other than the NIB to hold the rack down. And some of the commercial racks are designed to carry hundreds of pounds. I figure if the NIBS can be relied on to hold a loaded roof rack in place (down) in a accident at speed - then they must be able to hold the rack up as well. How would the steel know the difference ? In my case the rack is only for the solar panels so total weight - including the roof rack is less than 100 pounds. I've very comfortable with the results. Let me know your thoughts .... and stop back .... Dave

[@seelafever]

@@VanOfAction Thanks for getting back to me. Yes that does make total sense. Also if the horizontal sheer strength of those things must be pretty incredible to survive an accident as you stated. Therefore the vertical strength is probably more than sufficient. As usual I will probably take many ideas and create my own version and share.

[@VanOfAction]

Chad - agreed !! Be sure to let m know how you make out and if you can make any improvements to the design. I've had folks from all over the world copy it - and let find that they could do it. Which really makes me smile :) ..... come on back !! Dave

[@seelafever]

​@@VanOfAction Hey Dave, Well I come up with a solution using mostly materials I had. I used a lot of your ideas and added my own. The mount pictures are very crude and of a quick and dirty prototype buy you get the idea. Final product was much cleaner and worked great. I used thin aluminum unistrut for the rails. Given a redo I would use 2x2" angle but it all worked out fine. My biggest challenge was the fact that my panels are 59" and the center to center rail/pins are 60" so I had a heck of a time figuring out how to connect the panels to the rails. If the panels were any more than 1/2" shorter or longer it would have been easier but I was able to offset the rails on the mounts a little and make it work. There are 5/16" inserts in the unistrut with vertical bolts going through the angle. I used zinc plated steel hardware and loctite. I'll definitely do periodic inspect but there is a lot of redundancy in the overall system. I wish I could attach pictures to the post. I'll email them to you. Thank you so much for the inspiration to try it myself.

[@VanOfAction]

@@seelafever Thanks so much for the update !! I received the photos and they Look great !! I have some questions. Let me get back to you so I understand it and then I'll share the design with the community ....... Dave

[@timothylanier3849]

Do you sell any of the clips especially the ones that attach to the roof t-shaped factory mounts?

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Timothy. Thanks for watching and asking - the answer is no I don’t sell these brackets. First because they are so easy to make I can’t imagine being paid for them. And secondly because I am now on the road. Currently travelling in Prince Edward Island - Canada. Without tools (or a good internet connection). If you visit my channel you’ll find several videos that explain a step by step method to building. They’ve been copied all over the world. Be well and let me know know how you make out.

[@Dan645ci]

thank you, i i have purchased the sections for the clips, not sure about the bolt size and the drill bit size to make the holes for the bolts, if you would help please,

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Dan Thanks for your note and taking on the project. On my van the drill size was just under 1/4" You want it to be a close to the pin a possible to ensure the greatest purchase on the pin. Try making a sample out of a piece of wood or hard plastic. I'm not sure if you're seen them but these videos may help with the fabrication ... kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJLOpal4nc-aeNEsi=v6tIl2tWc_nToOeh ...... kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpzcmYewoN50hassi=yVMlQth3kEFtLlur .... and then you will be ready for an awning !!!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoCxdIKqd8Shg9Esi=b8Z6bXYdXXGg1gre ... Be sure to take some photos and share them with as you go !!! email to [e-mail] ... Cheers and be well Dave

[@Dan645ci]

@@VanOfAction thank you for the information, i will make sure to take some photos as well,

[@AlexCailliau]

MC4 connectors are designed to withstand rough weather conditions, but they're still the weakest link of any solar system. If you want to enjoy your system long without issues, you should put those connector under the solar panels. That is of course if your cables are long enough ;-) (otherwise it's maybe not worth the hassle). I did residential installations for a year, and this was a point we couldn't get around. if connectors were in contact with the roof and visible: installation was seen as rejected and we needed to correct this to fit the NL (or EU?) regulation.

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Alex thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. That's the first time I've heard about this - do you have any idea what the possible breakdown is ? (weather in the joint, infra red light from the sun etc>) If so maybe I can correct it where it is. Thanks and be well.

[@AlexCailliau]

In theorie thee are IP68 graded. In practice not always. If they’re not assembled 100% like it should, they aren’t 100% waterproof. It won’t short circuit, but rust and current aren’t best long term friends

[@VanOfAction]

Thanks for this information Alex. I have to admit they looked like a possible concern when I looked at the total system. I think I can take steps to protect them where they are. I really appreciate you letting me know.

[@southernbreezeenterprises4361]

If you were to do it again then a conduit or uv resistant channel or another piece of scrap c channel would be good to route the cables through underneath the support crossmembers This would provide mechanical, uv and reduced moisture on the cables and connectors but with your design it allows access for maintenance or repair, great work for a first timer

[@Dan645ci]

thank you again, i was wondering if i can use a shorter profile c channel for the clips, 1.5 instead of 2", what do you think?

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Dan - here is the reply I posted in your other comment - not sure which you'll see first - thanks for coming by and I hope you'll join the community ..... Hi Dan - thanks for watching and taking the time to ask. I used the 2" material for 2 reasons. First- it's what they had in the scrap bin. Second - it was recommended to me by someone who has had roof racks before that the rack should be at least an inch off the roof to prevent whistling as you go down the road. The Promaster roof isn't flat, there is a crown in the center and with 1.5" stock I think you would be getting pretty close to the metal. Now I don't know if it would whistle or not - but I know mine does not...... Hope you'll join the community .... and stop back .. Dave

[@Dan645ci]

@@VanOfAction thank you, greatly appreciated.

[@yvesvanhuffel]

Fantastic! Would it be strong enough to add the awning?

[@VanOfAction]

Hello Yves - The short answer is YES - I just picked up an awning last week, I'm inspecting the roof rack this Saturday at 10:00 am my time LIVE - and then the awning install the week after. Because I only added the cross members where required for the solar panels I may have to add another (maybe 2) .... I'll know more Saturday. ....... Be well

[@yvesvanhuffel]

@@VanOfAction Thanks for the reply, think I'll copy your complete design for the roof rack and solar. Did you get all that solar equipment in Kelowna?

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Yves - It's really easy and you'll save a ton of $$$$ copying this design. There are several videos about the rack on the channel. Document your progress and send me pics / videos when you're done and I'll share them with the community. The more people who do it and share how easy it is - the more will try. All I bought in Kelowna was the aluminum at the Metal Supermarket - (I got the material for the clips from their "off cut" rack for $ 13.00. And I had 3 MC4 cables made because Renogy was out of stock. All the solar components came from Renogy. Panels, MPPT Controller, DC-DC Charger, 2000 Watt Inverter and Lithium Batteries. I don't know enough about the electrics to mix and match. I felt safer buying parts that were made to play with each other. And they did right out of the box. Here is a link I think gets you 10% off .... renogycanada.refr.cc/davechomitz .. Keep in touch ..... Dave

[@dwaynetoney3429]

Dave, where do you get all your materials from? I was trying to find somewhere local (Utah) but for the life of me I can't find anything. Online the shipping is more than the item. Crazy money!

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Dwayne - I buy from local machine shops. There will be at least one in every town, for aluminum you may have to go to a city with a population of 30k or more. Most machine shop / steel fabricators will be building for other local industries. They will be able to get you what you want - but more importantly they'll have a rack of off cuts, left over pieces and mistakes. That's where I go first. This they typically will cut to whatever you want and sell by the pound. Where are you ???? I'll see if I can find a place close to you .... Dave

[@dwaynetoney3429]

@@VanOfAction Thanks Dave! I am in the Ogden, Utah area. I am sure there must be something around here. Don’t put yourself out on my account! Stick to making great videos! 😊👍thanks again! Dwayne.

[@VanOfAction]

Thanks to Mr Google these things take seconds - search "Ogden Utah machine shop" - after a quick glance I would call Cooney's , JD Machine - if either those don't have aluminum scraps I'm sure they could tell you who does. You live in a beautiful area - we spent a night in the Willard Bay State park in May on our way to Santa Fe. Loved it and want to return for a slower peak around. Let me know how you make out ..... Dave

[@dwaynetoney3429]

@@VanOfAction Awesome Dave! Thank you! I will give them a call! I’m glad you enjoyed your stay in our state. Utah is a beautiful state with lots of things to see and do! 🥰

[@dwaynetoney3429]

By the way if you do come back down here for a peak around let me know. You are welcome to park up in our driveway and plug in and fill your water up! 😂😉 -. Dwayne

[@rogerdeaver9038]

I like your design better.

[@thesplinteredfinger]

Great videos, I just subscribed and I like the way you explain things! My situation is a bit different than yours, I am adding a roof rack to a shuttle bus. In this video your long tubes are 1”x2”. I did see your updated video using 80/20 which I like a whole lot better! I am going to be adding 6 solar panels weighing about 20 pounds each. Do you think I could get by using the 10 series (1”x1”) 80/20 instead of the 15 series (2”x2”)? In comparison, your aluminum in this video is 1” x 2”, so other than the height factor I think the 10 series would be sufficient. Also looking to save some money because there is a big cost difference between the two. Appreciate your thoughts.

[@VanOfAction]

Hi Splintered Edge - thanks for joining the community and thanks for taking the time to comment. Unfortunately you're getting your KZbin channels mixed up. I have never used 8020 anywhere in my build. At first is was because I simply couldn't source easily during Covid - but then I came up with the design I have and I think my total material costs were pretty close to what the shipping alone would have been for 8020. For the rack - I would use rectangular aluminum tube. For size, 2 things to consider: 1. the space between the supports from the roof. The 1" x 2" x 1/8" I used is plenty for the Promaster - biggest space between supports is 4'-6" and it is RGID !! No flex or give at all under my weight. 2. You need enough material to be able to get the frame together. If all you, like me, are holding up is solar panels 8020 would be way more expensive than what I did. Be well and be sure to stop back !!!

[@saidt.8200]

👍

[@jamescoler866]

Oh and we used nylon nuts so we didn't need lock washers.

[@VanOfAction]

Yes. I replaced all mine with nylon this spring before I mounted my awning…… thanks for contributing. It helps everyone. Dave

[@mamatuja]

You probably never heard of a round file to make a slot.😂😂😂

[@VanOfAction]

Hi mamtuja - Thanks for watching ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I've been asked that before .... it seemed like to much bother !!! Be well ... Dave