Finishing 3D Prints 101: How to Glue 3D Printed Parts Together

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HOW TO GLUE YOUR 3D PRINTS
Gluing your 3D prints can be a powerful post-processing method if you’re looking to combine multiple components of an assembly, or create a model larger than the build volume of your 3D printer.
In this How To, we will show you some of the best practices associated with gluing your 3D prints.
Working time will vary depending on your model. The process shown took us about 20 minutes from start to finish.
SUPPLIES
3D Print with multiple components
Cyanoacrylate glue
2 part epoxy
Rubber bands
Paper towels
Scraping tool
400-1000 grit sandpaper
Respiratory mask
Gloves
Eye protection
STEP 1: OBTAIN YOUR MODEL (DESIGN OR DOWNLOAD)
For our model, we chose a prototype hair dryer created by Ferro from GrabCAD.If you’re designing from scratch, consider where you’d like the components to be joined.
STEP 2: PREPARE
A. When preparing models for gluing in MakerBot Print, keep in mind how your print settings will affect the gluing process.
Consider: Print settings, print orientation, and number of build plates
B. Because of the size of our model, we chose to print on our MakerBot Replicator+ Desktop 3D Printer in MakerBot PLA.
STEP 3: ROUGHING
Supplies used: Needle-nose pliers or flush cutters
A. Remove prints from the build plate
B. Remove rafts
C. Remove large pieces of support
D. Approach smaller pieces and fine details
STEP 4: INSPECT JOINTS
Your model is ready to glue when all surfaces and joints are smooth and fit together as intended.
STEP 5: SECURE COMPONENTS
Supplies used: Rubber bands
A: Join model components using rubber bands
Join model components using rubber bands as they will better conform to the shape of your model.
STEP 6: SPOT GLUE
Supplies used: cyanoacrylate glue, accelerator, paper towels
A. Begin gluing by, spot glue around your model
(this will ensure that your model is evenly attached in all places)
B. Apply a small amount of glue to a seam in a central location
C. Wipe away any excess with a paper towel
D. Use an accelerator and spray the area you just glued
E. Once glue has cured, remove the rubber bands
STEP 7: COMPLETE SEAMS
A. Apply glue evenly to the remaining unglued seams
B. Wipe away any excess
C. Spray accelerator
STEP 8: INSPECT
Take a moment to examine the fit.
STEP 9 (OPTIONAL): FILL SEAMS
Supplies used: Bondo, 400 & 1000 grit sandpaper and putty knife
If you find that your seams are rough or have gaps, you can use bondo or filler to smooth them - this works especially well if you plan to paint your model or create a silicone mold around it.
Fillers like bondo come in two parts - filler and hardener.
A. Pour small amount of filler on a tray
B. Spread small amount of hardener next to filler
C. Mix and spread generously across seam
D. Allow to cure
E. Sand lightly using 400/1000 grit sandpaper

[@LaugHaRiot708]

Instead of bondo, you can use spot putty. It’s easier to use, and drys much faster

[@charlesalexanderable]

That dust mask looks like it is not for fumes, maybe a 3m one rated for painting/volatiles would work better.

[@Luke101]

Awkward audio cut at the end

[@radimhluzek2859]

Can you please advise me some suitable adhesive for gluing 3D printed plastics (PLA, ABS, PETG, PET, etc. I do not care about the material primarily), which could be unglued so that the 3D print is not damaged and can be glued again?

[@kapoof2]

Hot glue

[@crazysnarfy861]

So, you didn't use epoxy on the large joint, only super glue?

[@mozkitolife5437]

I wish you'd go into what "Bondo" is.

[@proto3000_]

Hey Jason, Bondo is a thick two-part paste that is primarily used as an automotive body filler to fill in dents and scratches. In the case of 3D Printing it is ideal for hiding build lines and creating a smooth surface finish. We will make a video in the near future on how to use bondo on your 3D printed parts, so thank you for the question, stay tuned!

[@mozkitolife5437]

Proto3000 Many thanks. I have a white lithophane in three parts. I needed a white filler because I don't want to paint it. So im going with a white silicon, usually meant for tiling. Even a wood filler wasn't as white as the PLA. Thanks, again.

[@youravantgarde]

You just lost your man card

[@mozkitolife5437]

And you gained your "I'm a know-it-all macho jerk" card. Sorry my testicles are not as big as your titanium man nuggets.

[@JoelyRoley]

@@mozkitolife5437 helllo good sir, i represent jon sparrow and i would like to return your man card after that burn. Additionally, here is your comedy card. I think you already know how to use it. :)

[@pictureframe2104]

what a pain I'm just gonna sand then use hot glue and sand off excess

[@MrHanBrolo]

Hot glue is soft and prone to break more easily. A proper epoxy / hardener will be more like holding one piece completely and won't break apart as easily under stress or if you drop it

[@ItzFarhan]

My 3D printed object doesn’t stick with superglue

[@proto3000_]

What kind of material were you 3D printing with?

[@ItzFarhan]

Proto3000 I don’t really know?

[@ItzFarhan]

Proto3000 it’s from school, I’ll ask my teacher

[@jbe6697]

I have the same problem with pla

[@supplice-03-aaliyah]

bro really took 5 years to ask his teacher

[@cayborduin]

Is the gluing tray made of glass?

[@proto3000_]

Glass or acrylic should be fine

[@cayborduin]

Thanks!

[@brianmitchell305]

Bondo is not mixed 100%. You need to mix throughly

[@santiagocabascango6514]

Woow

[@m-stat9]

not really helpful if you want to glue already colored parts together.

[@proto3000_]

Thanks for the feedback! Will keep that in mind for future videos