I did the Bear build and the Bear Extruder upgrade a few years back. Love it. Started as a plan to upgrade my mk2.5 but ended up making it a mk3. The Bear extruder upgrade requires its own firmware for calibration and then flash the latest Prusa firmware. Easy build. Your KZbin has many good points emphasized when doing build.
@Sembazuru5 жыл бұрын
You are forgetting the maker's mantra: "Repair it until it doesn't work". X-D
@markferrick105 жыл бұрын
Looks nice. Looking forward to the rest of the series. One thing to add, IMO, always use a square, even if the parts are machines.
@Decadentotter5 жыл бұрын
I just finished my bear build a few weeks ago and I wish I had this to watch before doing it. The instructions for the build are great, but something about watching someone else build it and talk through it seems just as helpful to me. I can't wait for part 2.
@zambiagrowl36322 жыл бұрын
what is the bear kit exactly?
@Decadentotter2 жыл бұрын
@@zambiagrowl3632 the bear kit is a frame upgrade for the prusa mk3 printer.
@SixOThree5 жыл бұрын
For anyone doing this or any other 3d printer build, I highly recommend screwdriver style hex drivers.
@Stahlfabrik5 жыл бұрын
I used a 90 degree square tool as recommend from the bear author. Took me three evenings - like 6 hours or so - to get the frame really perpendicular
@zerofox3d5 жыл бұрын
I love my Bear, made a huge difference to the noise my 2.5 made.
@jim.c67805 жыл бұрын
Those red extrusions look so nice that will turn out to be an awesome printer
@GregAllen25 жыл бұрын
Cool... I don't own a Prusa but could imagine that the extruded aluminum will be much more rigid than the stamped frames. I purchased 3 Anet A8's a couple years ago for the electronics etc and built them as AM8's. They print really well and the frames are rock solid. I use them for client prints. I am planning to upgrade them to linear rails. It would be great if Prusa added linear rails to this design. Coupled with his innovative software they would be amazing.... Cheers, Greg
@halsaresnowpaw5225 жыл бұрын
Greg, they are not stamped frames. They are cut aluminum sheet.
@GregAllen25 жыл бұрын
@@halsaresnowpaw522 Didn't know that thanks. It's better than stamped for sure but not as rigid as extruded aluminum. Sort of an in-between... Cheers!
@cptwingnut5765 жыл бұрын
Having a bag of spare drop-in t-nuts is always handy.
@998977674 жыл бұрын
Plot twist: you can print em
@alanb765 жыл бұрын
I use a small marble table that is very flat - it is very handy to have something that is ground flat.
@PhilHaddon3 жыл бұрын
"I put a ruby nozzle on it". Pressed stop. Tuned into Chris's basement
@TD3DMakes5 жыл бұрын
Cool man, thanks for sharing. Love the colour so far. Looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheers!
@ruftime5 жыл бұрын
I’ve got two mk2 that have performed flawlessly since first assembled....wish I could say the same about many of my friends.....and their clones:-)
@nicewhenearnedrudemostlyel4895 жыл бұрын
Like, your friends and their clones, or your friend's printers and printer clones? Lol ;)
@davidbanaszak5624 жыл бұрын
I am glad to hear yours is doing well, mine has given me issues since the start. layers shifts to nozzle jams.. ended up replacing the noctura fan and the Prusa specific parts of the hotend ...
@MacMeaties5 жыл бұрын
I know it's too late for you personally but maybe some of your viewers will find it helpful; a quality roofers/joiners square and 90 degree corner clamps make the assembly and alignment of this frame go much quicker and more accurately. Not everyone just has those lying around but they are worth borrowing if you can.
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
This is a good a recommendation. In the preflight check of the assembly guide I recommend a DIN875 (any grade) square. Also this video is helpful to test and fix a square: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fH_TcoR-p7OjhLc
@emimix5 жыл бұрын
Lately I have seen many Bear upgrade kit videos and yours by far is the best...looking forward to next parts :) ....thanks
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Thank you :)
@GoatZilla5 жыл бұрын
Been totally thinking about doing this with my MK2.
@PracticalProjects5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing, I've been hoping you would do a video on this! :)
@atouchofa.d.d.58525 жыл бұрын
That color is awesome!
@scottbaeder375 жыл бұрын
On T-nuts ...I never saw anyone do it that way - i.e. put the nut in first, then put the screw in. I usually put the screw in the part, thread on the t-nut a bit, then align the nuts in the right direction, then put it on the rail...BUT, YES, t-nuts are notorious for just being bad (maybe 1 out of about 30-40).
@scottbaeder375 жыл бұрын
OK- See that you did that later in the video....So, why (if there is a reason) did you do it the other way to start with....BUT KUDO's for all you do...
@Thomllama5 жыл бұрын
Nice!! one suggestion - use a Speed/Rafter Square to set the frame alignments. My Old Max Micron printer is very similar frame setup. Couple small squeeze clamps and the rafter square makes it WAY faster and easier getting everything perfect and square. Thing looks sweet, LDO is doing a nice job on those Extrusion colors!
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
@Heiko Scheuermann SimRacing Be careful with measuring the diagonals. You will have measurement error on all distances. I recommend a DIN875 square.
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
@Heiko Scheuermann SimRacing Ah yes for a safety check it is a good idea. Sorry I did not understand that ;-)
@MegaScott2 жыл бұрын
Kind of cornfusing, had to listen to to the first part four times "insert two tee nuts into both sides, like so, " then you insert what looks like maybe 6 tee nuts inserted very quickly?...finally figured it out after a few tries. I used a tee square and a piece of ground marble wall tile to get the base perfectly square.
@vonrapp7134 жыл бұрын
Interesting, this gives me some ideas for when my printer arrives...I have access to a machine shop so I can make my own kit! I'll open source it...though it's probably not going to be easy or cost-effective for most people to make unless they have a CNC and waterjet cutter lol
@axelhopfinger5335 жыл бұрын
You know what would be an idea for a video? Compare if and how popular Chinese manufacturers improve their printers over time and how well their user and community feedback is taken into practical account.
@SDR1545 жыл бұрын
Got my orange profile ordered, can’t wait to start making it!! How’s the Malta mural coming on Jo??
@IanDouglas5 жыл бұрын
I'm stuck at the 10:15 part where he says the base shouldn't wobble. Mine is square, I even used a square to confirm it per Chris Warkocki's build-a-bear video but I still have a slight wobble of maybe 1mm on one set of corners. It's not the workbench either -- if I rotate the frame 90 degrees the same two corners wobble. Not sure how to proceed, and would appreciate any tips.
@CharlesD4rwin4 жыл бұрын
Ian Douglas it is impossible that your table is flat, your frame is square, and it wobbles. Pick two.
@erik618015 жыл бұрын
congrats on making your prusa look like my geetech.
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Must be a special kind of geetech to be just a red frame :)
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
Actually we have someone that switch its geeetech to the bear frame and he is very happy :-D
@Eewec4 жыл бұрын
Did I catch that comment at 4:17 correctly? You printed the Polymaker PolyMax PC parts on the Raise3d Pro 2? Pity if so as I'm looking to personalize my i3 mk3 and almost £4000 is a bit outside my price bracket just to print some hard-wearing parts.
@rokkr5 жыл бұрын
What kind of Thanos snap was that!? Haha. After hearing how realiable the Prusa printers are I think I found my option for my first 3D Printer. Also, that color is just beautiful! Great work, can't wait for the other videos
@runklestiltskin_24075 жыл бұрын
How to crealitify your i3!!
@coreymalczewski61253 жыл бұрын
Just curious, and maybe I missed it, but what’s the benefit of this upgrade? Is it just style? It does look really nice. I didn’t know if there’s other benefits.
@3DMakerNoob3 жыл бұрын
If you’re doing the MK3 upgrade, then not butch benefit other than style to be honest. If you use a Mk2.5 for the upgrade though, you have a much more sturdy frame and better print quality :)
@coreymalczewski61253 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob thanks. Been hooked on your PRUSA vids. Thanks again for the quick answer.
@markowens82552 жыл бұрын
Measure Diagonally to check square it is much more accurate that to test as well with rail
@Rmilyard5 жыл бұрын
So I am thinking about upgrading my MK3S. I haven't seen kits for that. I would keep my Bondtech BMG-M Mosquito extruder I think. So what kit/parts are needed?
5 жыл бұрын
wowww, it is really beautiful 3d printer, i will make this one now, i bought all part of this
@NewShockerGuy4 жыл бұрын
This seems really nice but damn the assembly... seems like you could potentially have a ton of issues with so many joints and keeping everything aligned..Almost seems like you'd be introducing a ton of issues with printing.
@andrewgreenaway15133 жыл бұрын
"Ten in total, the fastest mk3 build to date." Sorry pal, your video was the quickest I switched off to date.
@cerberus47305 жыл бұрын
im exicited
@lukefenske30395 жыл бұрын
just a heads up aluminum extrusion z will never be as rigid as that solid sheet they have. Fasteners will always loosen over time, and the frame is not solid so it will inevitably have some give. For the z you only need to worry about force going from left to right which is why the sheet of aluminum does so well.
@jakefromstatefarm85455 жыл бұрын
Luke Fenske actually you’re wrong
@lukefenske30395 жыл бұрын
@@jakefromstatefarm8545 Well I've been an engineer at a professional level for 3 years, with a masters in mechanical, and a minor in physics, in addition to almost 6 years of FDM building experience (as a hobbyist) so I would say there is a good to fair chance I'm not.
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
@@lukefenske3039 Version one was reusing the Z plate, actually it was a MK3 before the MK3. The plate was still too flexible so I made the full bear. Some guys made 500mm and did not feel the need to add brackets to it. It is much stronger. However, you still have the flex coming from the smooth rods and plastic parts.
@lukefenske30395 жыл бұрын
@@gregoiresaunier2622 Refuse to except being wrong or don't. I couldn't care less.
@jdemacek5 жыл бұрын
Did you print the Polycarbonate parts on your Prusa machine? I'm wondering if I could use the same.
@Flavius-Tech4 жыл бұрын
can i use only plastic parts from x idlers for z bearings from bear upgrade kit? Or it doesn't work with original frame from prusa i3 mk3s?
@robineriksson245 жыл бұрын
Hey Joe! How it is going with the Inkspire? I am curious if you will upload a review soon :)
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
It’s going extremely well, review should be up in a week or two :)
@robineriksson245 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob Great to hear! Looking forward, and thanks for the fast reply :)
@plazmax5 жыл бұрын
best guide ever, will you do zaribo upgrade (320,420, 520 etc ) ?
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Yes, I should have a zaribo 320 kit coming in and will live stream the assembly
@mancavehobbies62135 жыл бұрын
awesome brother
@WhereNerdyisCool5 жыл бұрын
Is it me or is your lighting different? I've bee cranking the brightness down and stuff and ....I dunno...this video seems lit differently!
@rw48333 жыл бұрын
hi, thanks a lot for the video. A quick question please as I am new to such stuff. At 03:02 you mentioned something like "Polymaker PC max and I use the magico PC for this". I heard the "Polymaker PC max" but not the next part - it sounded something like "magico" or something like that. Could you please give me the names or the links of those? Cheers.
@3DMakerNoob3 жыл бұрын
Magigoo, it’s a specialized bed adhesive for many technical filaments
@rw48333 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob Thanks for clearing my doubt. It's probably this I guess; Magigoo PC - The 3D printing adhesive for Polycarbonate (SKU: 5350583999945)
@icenesiswayons99625 жыл бұрын
I hate to be kinda irrelevant but where did you get that RAD looking chair? OMG! dude it's cool!
@halsaresnowpaw5225 жыл бұрын
Anyone know who sells the PolyMax PC in the US? Every place I have checked on the Polymaker site is either a job shop or don't list it. Only found one place, Plug-n-Play 3D, that has it in stock, but only in white. EDIT: Never mind. Found that Amazon carries it.
@AndrewAHayes5 жыл бұрын
Looks nice but I very much doubt it is going to improve the quality of your prints as long as the MK3 is set up properly, If I had a MK3 the only upgrade that would tempt me is an extra 100mm on the Z
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Hence why I said it’s not really an upgrade to me just a customization :)
@aaronbrown77505 жыл бұрын
How would you add 100mm to the Z without replacing the frame, just as he is doing? The extruder would need to pass through the top of the frame to go any higher then stock.
@AndrewAHayes5 жыл бұрын
If I were buying an upgrade I wouldn't expect to have to design it as well
@siskodata5 жыл бұрын
Was looking forward to this. One question do you think it's more or less difficult to setup the bear frame or a MK2? Also have you considered putting a bunny extruder on this printer?
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
I am not the best person to answer this :-D but at least it is easier to measure thanks to the extrusions.
@halsaresnowpaw5225 жыл бұрын
When's the next part coming out? My upgrade will be here Friday and I have most of the parts printed. :)
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
I will be uploading the x axis assembly and bear extruder in a day or two and by the end of the week the rest of the build :)
@halsaresnowpaw5225 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob Looking forward to it.
@Levisgil475 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. The new frame looks sturdy! Do you know if the two Z drivers will be controlled by two separate drivers? Thanks
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
No it is same as Prusa, no modification on the electronic or firmware required. However, several people have used Duet board on the Bear frame with success.
@Anonymouspock5 жыл бұрын
How do you have so few issues with your moving wires on your Prusas? I run two of them and both have as of now gotten breaks in their heated bed thermistor cables at some point in their lives where the temperature reading is lost at some point on the y axis. I've also had a part fan cable fail.
@spare-timehobbies86545 жыл бұрын
I've not had any cable issues yet either... fingers crossed.
@rodryorigel84765 жыл бұрын
Sorry for asking because you may have said it sometime, but what colour exactly is that blue of the other prusa? That tone is absolutely gorgeous! 🤤
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
It’s metallic blue PETg by Herz :)
@GrowMau55 жыл бұрын
Cool video, nice looks, nice job. But looks like a side grade at best IMO. Cheers
@darksideadv4 жыл бұрын
Hi how are you, I installed the marlin 1.1.9, but I get an error, the screen does not work the knob, I am using a 2004A screen. Another problem is in pronterface I move the axes, and they don't work, they get stuck, locked sometimes they move. I have 2 types of screen and in the 2 the same thing happens to me. 2004A LCD screen 2004 LCD screen They come in Kit with RAMPS 1.4.
@-Gunnarsson-Ай бұрын
Im supriced nobody sells all metal parts for pruisa printers.
@bobhepple57524 жыл бұрын
which way around did you place those T nuts
@pstasman6295 жыл бұрын
Note: the MK3 y-motor mounts opposite
@tonyqlam4 жыл бұрын
can I use this upgrade for the MK3S?
@chloemcholoe32805 жыл бұрын
0:03 wow either the prusa i3 is really light or you're REALLY strong. I can barely lift my anycubic i3 mega
@RywokastDarkstar50005 жыл бұрын
its 14 lbs... you can lift it with one finger lol
@ValerikWolk2 жыл бұрын
thx
@mathewphillips41855 жыл бұрын
That's too funny you want from a prusa to a creality frame!??
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Nope, from a mk3 frame to a full openbuilds frame. Mk3 frame is already partly openbuilds
@mathewphillips41855 жыл бұрын
It was a joke since I've gotten to the 3D printing a lot of people compare prusa to the creality and when I saw the frame I just thought it was funny the similarities between the open build and the creality frame
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
@@mathewphillips4185:-D ! Also Creality use through holes assembly with gives you no chance to square perfectly your frame. Extrusions are never perfectly flat, they are made from melted aluminum so they can twist, wrap and bend, just like our printed parts. This is why openbuilds (and so my frame) use thick aluminum joining plates.
@zachmerz6285 жыл бұрын
How do you do your overhead shots?
@andrhamm3 жыл бұрын
"I'm not considering this an upgrade" _looks at title_
@nrs914 жыл бұрын
I didnt quite catch the name of the filament you used for the Prusa Parts, what was it?
@3DMakerNoob4 жыл бұрын
Polycarbonate :) Polymax PC
@nrs914 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob cheers! will check it out!! Any tips for printing on Prusa Mk3s?
@NestorPomar5 жыл бұрын
if you use the MK3s for hobby stuff, does it worth it to upgrade it to a Bear frame?
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Honestly, no. As I mentioned the mk3 is perfectly fine as it is, it’s a great machine and very reliable. To me this is more of a customization. But I have seen people who swear by improvement in quality due to the upgrade
@NestorPomar5 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob many thanks :) much appreciated
@casio0074 жыл бұрын
I don't get it, why is better to replace perfect solid one piece frame with aluminum v-slots joined by some plates. To me it is more like downgrade.
@4lm0n05 жыл бұрын
Upgrade? Are you sure?
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
That’s what The name is, so that’s what I use :)
@4lm0n05 жыл бұрын
Hehehe
@redpillcommando4 жыл бұрын
If it's not broke, don't fix it!
@jonjonsson63234 жыл бұрын
Would probably been cheaper to buy an ender 3. The prusa is a good machine but it has some flaws, one is the z top screws not having bearings and rely on an unsupported end. Why leave an unsupported thing that can bend your motor when you can fix it easily os probably an economy thing in the making. Same goes for the z nuts in plastic instead of a bronze standard one.
@SheppPL4 жыл бұрын
Dude fix your tutorial because i needed to rebuild again from scratch because of missings screws that should been putted early
@3DMakerNoob4 жыл бұрын
I followed the provided instructions, mine went on fine together
@alf30715 жыл бұрын
Is this to increase print size?
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
Not officially supported but some pushed it to 500mm without feeling the need for extra brackets. For now it is too much work for me to support a custom firmware. It might sounds simple but it comes with responsibilities. I would need to run regression and functionality tests to ensure everything is good and that my customers have no chance to burn their house. Prusa is probably one of the most tested firmware for printer lower than 1000$ and they have lots of security features.
@stiffler86325 жыл бұрын
The easier way is to look for Zaribo ;-) The best upgrade Prusa on the Market ;-)
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
I will be getting a zaribo as I met the owners in Sweden. however zaribo in itself is not an upgrade but a full on 3D printer based on the Prusa
@stiffler86325 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob i know, i have a bunch of them ;-)
@TheRealWurstCase5 жыл бұрын
$134.99 is pretty overpriced. you can get those aluminum profiles for 40$ if sourced locally
@Mr3DPrintWizard5 жыл бұрын
Christoph H it also comes with all try the hardware. Price it all locally like o have and you're very close to $130. The more you know. ;)
@TheRealWurstCase5 жыл бұрын
@@Mr3DPrintWizard Dude i built a 500mmx500mm cube 3d Printer with those profiles just recently for 70$ + 40$ in hardware (nuts, bolts and so on) thats 110$ ...
@Mr3DPrintWizard5 жыл бұрын
Christoph H dude not the same hardware and not the same quality. So no you're not getting a full bear with equal quality parts and finish for $40 or $60. I know you think you are but I've priced the exact same hardware from.reputable sources. $110-120 or so every time.
@TheRealWurstCase5 жыл бұрын
@@Mr3DPrintWizard Then please tell me the quality difference between those 2040 extrusions and the ones i got from e.g. motedis.uk i really wanan know
@Mr3DPrintWizard5 жыл бұрын
Christoph H for one LDO the makers of the extrusion have one of of the best rating for being perfectly cut. If the extrusion is off by 0.01mm here and there or more you'll loose parallelism quickly. Most if not all places I've ever tried ordering from only offers a +- 0.2mm cut rating. When I ask for more accuracy good luck. They also anodize after cutting for a far cleaner finish. The kits include black anodized t nuts for a cleaner finish which I've never found elsewhere. Btw you're also talking to the person who got them to make custom colors which again you won't find most anywhere. These extrusions are far better than those you find elsewhere in machining alone for a reason.
@tamvalley4155 жыл бұрын
All 3dmakers don't have a contact button on their site nor does the messenger button work...
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
I reported that to them, they will look into it. You can contact me if you need, I can talk to them.
@ImaginationToForm5 жыл бұрын
So it's a Cr-10S Pro Mini now.
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Exactly! If the CR-10S pro mini was a mk3 of course hehe
@addohm Жыл бұрын
Get a camera, or even a recently released cell phone.
@matthewrichman77772 жыл бұрын
Ha well not to toot my own horn but the only printers that i trust are the ones I build And that is none... ;( ohh yeah also trust prusa
@Rmilyard5 жыл бұрын
Is there a Bear kit for the MK3S yet?
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Yes there is, but still in kind of beta phase
@Rmilyard5 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob nice. Have link so can follow it?
@border0565 жыл бұрын
@@Rmilyard Keep an eye on Greg's dev branch on his GitHub. Also, you can use the stock X axis and MK3S extruder on the Bear frame until Greg officially publishes his Bear MK3S extruder. Keep in mind that you cannot use the Bear X axis unless you use the Bear extruder or the BMG extruder. You can use the stock Prusa X axis and extruder on the bear frame. I felt the need to reiterate that because it's a little confusing. Here's a link to the GitHub: github.com/gregsaun
@NestorPomar5 жыл бұрын
@@border056 I have never seen an specific extruder for the bear frame. as far as I know the bear frame change does not impact on the original extruder and it can be used with out problem. Am I right? many thanks
@border0565 жыл бұрын
Nestor Pomar hey, here’s a link to the Bear X axis and Bear extruder: github.com/gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis
@LogicalWaste5 жыл бұрын
Probably not first?
@FabrizioLazzeretti5 жыл бұрын
Hi, why would you go for a frame who needs to be assembled, instead of a single piece one. The Z is always a pain, thas is probably why J.Prusa made it in a single piece. Just can't see the point of this video.
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
The point is that I like the colour and that this kit is very popular, so I am doing a tutorial on how to assemble it
@FabrizioLazzeretti5 жыл бұрын
@@3DMakerNoob Fair enough. I didn't want to be rude btw, the only thing that gave me a lot of issues with my printers was the z frame. This said I really appreciate your videos and so do the entire community, my favourite is the bltouch setup.
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
Don’t worry brother, no offence taken. Sorry if it came across harsh :) and thank you
@MiNiD335 жыл бұрын
"I Don't do things when they aren't broken" (paraphrased) *Commences to tear down a working printer for unrequired extra rigidity*
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
I’m not doing it for extra rigidity, as I said it works fine as is. I’m doing it for the sake of doing a tutorial and because it’s gonna look awesome 😁
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
it is not only about rigidity, it makes the printer more reliable, easier to maintain, more accurate, PSU is not used as a square so you can just move it out an enclosure, etc. And it looks nice :-)
@3dprintingtroll9405 жыл бұрын
It's too bad they use 2040, I thought that stuff was for shelves and enclousures…. not printer frames held together with brackets instead of bolting directly together...what a shame this kit is so popular
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
And yet 90% of 3D printers are held together the same exact way
@gregoiresaunier26225 жыл бұрын
Extrusions are never perfectly flat because of the way they are made. It is melted aluminum, so like our 3D prints it can wrap, twist and shrink. Tolerances are quite high for extrusions, including from brand like Misumi (they even don't give tolerance on angle of the cut). This is why Openbuilds (and so my frame) are using thick joining plates, it allows you to align everything perfectly. The problem with the brackets or through hole mounts is that you cannot compensate for those inaccuracies. Same problem with linear rails, tolerances of linear rails are much lower than the extrusion, so you might have trouble if you assemble linear rails on aluminum extrusions. It will probably work fine for most people but tolerances are tolerances and you can't ignore them...
@carbide19685 жыл бұрын
Ok, this is getting ridiculous now. What's the story about the mural? I spent 20 bucks to ship parts i took time to print and box and take to post office and a year later still nothing? Really uncool joe.
@3DMakerNoob5 жыл бұрын
I’m sorry that you feel that way, the mural is still coming. While I cant explain my life’s mishaps on comments know that there are very valid reasons. But it’s coming, that’s a promise