PS3 #1: Repair Horror Story | NEC/Tokin Caps and Tantalum Fix EXPOSED!

[@lauratiso]

ONE MORE VIDEO!!!! Thank you, Dead Felix!

[@jeremiahbronx4523]

I have a 80gb PS3 backwards compatible (2007) is that a 90nm GPU?

[@lauratiso]

@@jeremiahbronx4523 I'm not certain about that, but I bet it's probably yes. I think the 65nm was launched in 2008.

[@TheNikitis]

@@jeremiahbronx4523 Yes.

[@Kato0909]

Can't wait for PS3#2 video

[@Kato0909]

Can't wait for PS3#2 video

[@plasticss]

The amount of work put into your videos is amazing

[@marcelosantos8484]

Well, the human behavior aspects in this series are what amaze me. No. I'm not any different from you: from time to time, I get myself in similar spiral of curiosity. If KZbin keeps pushing your videos to me, I WILL WATCH THEM ALL. Thanks for your sharing. 👍

[@lis6502]

you can help youtube with subscription ;P

[@bsanchez3563]

Exactly same fwiw.. and I never even have HAD a bc ps3 XD but its still so interesting fwiw ykwis

[@bsanchez3563]

Albeit I have def enjoyed and still do enjoy playing the ps3 for certain ykwis

[@37Kilo2]

"There's nothing like a microscope to beat your soldering pride into submission." Hard truth.

[@AllThoughts3rased]

RIP PS3 #1, your sacrifices will never be forgotten.

[@youtuberobbedmeofmyname]

We are blessed that you didnt just run off after the first video and you even have a second video AND a third one planned. Awesome work man. Reminds me of when I first started to repair GPUs.

[@SultanOfAwesome]

I'm still a beginner at this but I'm more interested in gpu repair. You being honest with mistakes and lessons learned helps a lot. Thank you for this!

[@WagTsX]

OMG! The series I didn't knew I wanted. As a person that already fixed a PS3 in the past using tantalums, I cannot get more amused.

[@seguramlk]

Dit it last?

[@WagTsX]

@@seguramlk yes, flawlessly. I bet the point of the video is this, tantalums are the easiest fix that everyone with a soldering iron can try, no wonder why a lot of people tried it in first place.

[@fss1704]

No shit if you use the same amount of capacitance than the tokin it will fail, i fixed these with more capacitance and it lasts, i bet if he measured the caps for continuity a second time it would have shorted, i always put the maximum amount of capacitors i can and a ceramic cap in the side and every ps3 i fix stay fixed because i correct the low capacitance fail that was a problem to begin with.

[@Harmonic14]

​@@fss1704this aged EXTREMELY poorly lmao

[@TheOnlyPedroGameplays]

@@Harmonic14why what happen

[@Vegetal999]

Esta serie deberia estar en Netflix. Creo que es el mejor contenido que he encontrado en youtube hasta el momento, espero con ansias el segundo episodio. Saludos

[@thepwrtank18]

Translation: "This series should be on Netflix. I think it's the best content I've found on KZbin so far, I'm looking forward to the second episode."

[@Vegetal999]

@@thepwrtank18 gracias por la traducción

[@loquendops32009]

​@@Vegetal999 gracias a este video evite un desastre en mi PS3 Fat Retrocompatible y 1 año después de la reparación aquí sigue y jugando lo peor para los procesadores cómo Gran Turismo 6 Uncharted 3 y The Last Of US!!!

[@pedroescalona4789]

@@loquendops32009 Como la reparaste?

[@loquendops32009]

@@pedroescalona4789 el disipador del PS3 Fat está mal diseñado en la parte del RSX y con el tiempo se irá desoldando, con el mantenimiento y el cambio de pasta vas hacer que dure más pero igual se está desoldando por el mal diseñado es inevitable eso, así que una posible solución (al menos para mí) fue poner un Clamp debajo del RSX y así finalmente el procesador estará Recto alargando mucho más su vida y también es una solución para el GLOD (Luz verde de la muerte)

[@maxsun2418]

Love your way of telling these stories. I can't wait for another episode!

[@rfmerrill]

For the longest time I struggled to use solder wick. One thing I finally figured out that made it easier: If you just put your iron on top of the braid, with the braid in between the iron and the joint, you're not going to heat anything very efficiently (the braid's coarse surface makes poor thermal contact), and the flux on the braid will burn leaving black soot on your iron, forming an even worse thermal barrier. What you want to do is *always make sure your iron is touching solder.* The solder wetting between your iron tip and whatever you're heating will make it much more efficient. With the long pads you're working with here, you can do what is imo ideal which is have your iron tip half on the pad and half on the wick, touching both of them. That always gives the best results in my experience. You can also put the iron on part of the wick that's already soaked with solder, rather than a dry part. In this situation I would *definitely* preheat though, as another commenter pointed out. I'd also probably run the iron over the pad for a bit before bringing the wick to it.

[@kyle52905]

This is amazing advice because for an embarrassingly long amount of time I was horrible with solder wick until I realized that going in between the pad and the wick allows it to soak up more solder. It also probably helps to not use cheap wick.

[@rfmerrill]

@@kyle52905 I think the difference between cheap and expensive wick is mostly the flux it's coated with. The wick itself is just copper right? Kinda hard to mess up (but maybe someone knows better than me haha).

[@lis6502]

I gave you a subscription not because i am playstation fan, not because i lke your memes or topic whatsoever, but i did that due to fact that you are insanely scientific while being regular Joe (sort of) all the time. Explaining why 22gauge wires generated magical smoke was what i have clicked on this video. This is not a tutorial for sure, it's a case study of a man obsessed with desire to understand. I would easliy trade all my collection of Bones nad CSI::* series for another RIP Felix episode. A document showing step by step how prodigy is being born. An encouragement for others like you to not give up idea of understanding. While still persisting to human flaws. Absolutely masterpiece, can't wait next part.

[@MrAeral]

Your work is amazing. I came here from your first video, and i can't even describe the amount of positive emotions i had after watching the videos! Your content is amazing! Keep it up, i love it! As a techinician myself, i can relate to your pain. But you can do it! Keep going! :)

[@rhove09]

Thank you for sharing your failures and learnings in this journey of yours. It really does help others from making the same mistakes!

[@matthewsermons7247]

This was one of the most captivating videos I've seen in a while. Very relatable. I like to tell people : "I'm a Techromancer because I have an unearthly ability to bring dead electronics back to life. And if not, well at least I have spare body parts".

[@DisectUK]

It's fantastic that you took the time to document the adventure of what you have learnt and achieved. Look forward to the next video really enjoying your journey of the PS3.

[@evilmasherz]

Christmas came early for this boy. Ty Felix

[@wagleydotexe]

Can’t wait to see more! I personally had 2 YLODs so this has been an awesome series to watch!

[@fss1704]

Don't repeat his fails, use more capacitance than the tokin and this wont happen to you, and put a ceramic cap too.

[@yashy2x]

Keep up the good work a small token of appreciation ❤️

[@ianblythe1992]

I've been there myself mate with the Nectokens and the amount of time spent taking apart ps3 and reassemble I am going for the Frankinstine mod myself soon I already have 2x RSX 40nm waiting to go into original ps3 backwards compatible consoles takes some patience and not to get stressed respect for you work and working out regarding the bump issues makes sense when putting heat on the board that I would remarkably work again 😂

[@michaelmitchell8218]

I still own my original PS3 it’s immaculate condition and been looked after and kept clean and no dust. The art is to keep them clean and stop dust buildup. I do electronics and I fixed many PS3s and other PlayStation over time, but I tell you one main cause of the yellow light of death is how the console been treated. So away my PS3 as never been apart and still works like new still and hopefully it will for more years to come.

[@Justgreen89925]

This channel is pure gold.

[@TWONSSHOW]

Only 2 videos and your already my favorite KZbinr.

[@fengye9911]

What a wonderful retrospection as you always do! I followed the making of delidding tool and they still work by now! Especially delidding rsx became such an easy job. Best Christmas video for me. Many thanks RIP-Felix

[@campallu]

What a nice video to watch despite it's duration. As you say learning comes at a price, and what you have learned have no price.

[@MarstedR]

I'll definitely be looking out for the next installations in this series. I even clicked the bell.

[@NapoleonStreamer]

This Guy and PS3 Community Exploded my Mind, even i solded my PS3 to buy a PS4, i'm fascinated with The community's Inteligence of Rewrite the SysCon to accept Frankies blows my mind Thanks KZbin for Recommending me this channel

[@TheoHiggins]

Your YLOD video was the inspiration for me to finally get a BC PS3 after intending to for years I got a C model for a good price, and have now discovered it doesn't read DVD/PS2 discs Looks like the first chapter of my repair journey has begun

[@aegonthedragon7303]

That should just be the DVD laser, which went bad on my CECH-A. Its around 20 bucks for a new one but you just got to be careful to not forget any parts when transplanting.

[@TheoHiggins]

@@aegonthedragon7303 exactly what it was, only thing that went wrong was I stripped a screw in the disk drive so I won't be disassembling that again any time soon lol

[@kostassidiropoulos9652]

The reason why your PS3 worked again several times, was because the heat you put for the tantalums, actually traveled to the RSX nearby and temporarily restored your RSX to a working condition that would soon fail again. Would be fun to see a frankenstein mod with tantalums replaced too.

[@aegonthedragon7303]

Theres also the infamous coin “fix” which forces the RSX bga to hold together. That’s how I got my CECH-B temporarily working again but thats a console best saved for the Frankenstein mod.

[@fss1704]

Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.

[@smokegames1179]

only way to saved the fat models is by replacing the rsx or just buy slim, all this are temporary fix sadly

[@nicolaslacoste9367]

Like you, I done tantalum capacitor fix and like you my ps3 failed again. I read some of your post on psx place, seen your long video on ps3 issues. You convinced me to replace rsx with an 40nm version. But as you in this vidéo I own cheap equipment. Just wait your next videos to know your history with ps3 fat fix. And like you I don't want to buy an ps3 already modified but do it by my own. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge. Best regards

[@ripfelix3020]

Well, don't let me slow you down. I reccomend getting a cheap COK-00X MB (donor) and practicing until you have it down. Will take a good 5 or 6 attempts. And you will get lulled into a false sense of confidence and want to try it before you're ready. So try to resist the urge until you have sucessfully removed, reballed, and reflowed the RSX at least 3 times. CPU too, if you are at it. You'll learn a lot from that practice. Mainly it's to get used to your equipment and get a feel for the way the board reacts. And do yourself a favor, bake the boards at 100c for a minimum of 4 hours (preferably 24hrs) to remove moisture! That actually is a big deal. Luckily, you don't have to wait. I documented all my repair logs on the PSX place. So if you just can't wait for a video, you can always read about my journey! www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/page-204#post-301356 At the bottom there is a spoiler with links to all my PS3 repair logs.

[@nicolaslacoste9367]

@@ripfelix3020 : Hi, Thanks a lot for your reply. I will do what you said, training me on a cheap board. Thanks too for link on your PS3 post, I will read that with attention. Best regards

[@ripfelix3020]

Just remember that I was learning as I went. So I had to correct incorect ideas as time went by. So don't take what I say there as gospel! That journey was frought with minefields I walked strait into. It's good for a laugh tho.

[@ForteGX100]

Great videos! Wish I knew what you were talking about, but I feel smart listening to it, and the general message isn't lost on me.

[@eugenioarpayoglou]

Ok. By far the best PS3 video on KZbin. Finally some actual helpful info.

[@Randomii666]

As someone who's destroyed PS2's trying to fix/mod them, i gotta say even attempting reballing is one hell of a feat. I wouldn't ever see myself even attempt that. Makes for some very interesting content though!

[@emmanuelelutin]

We learn with try & errors. Doing a lot and share to you fearless, make your video incredibly interesting and valuable. Thanks !

[@Epicasfuk]

I fixed my YLOD on a CECHA01 from FB Marketplace by de lid "ing the heat sinks and just re-thermal pasteing both sides of the spreaders , I used a bean can easy open lid and a lighter to remove the thermal glue LMFAO and watched a NSC Modz 's guide(s) on how to put the thing back together w/ good pressure to get better cooling. I then modded the case w/ holes and removed the PSU housing and bent the PSU mounting brackets up a bit (same guys cooling tip) to get some air flow between the PSU and the CPU on the board. Now my CECHA01 runs very quite and cool ! No YLOD and no other issues. Hearing your story of all this work and having to take apart your ps3 so many times and try to get it working made me remember all the work I had to put into mine a few years back. When I put it back together the 3rd time I ended up damaging the little ribbon for the power button chip and thought my work w/ the CPU / GPU bricked my unit ... and had to wait over a week shipping time to find it was in fact the common ribbon for the power button. DIY ps3 repair hype!

[@Epicasfuk]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gamzaolsnJmhfck

[@nolongeranobody869]

This is a great learning opportunity for me

[@Naitoraven951]

You're an excellent youtuber and person. Please, continue with your PS3 adventure :)

[@Demo12345]

Very nicely done! Not only did you show what lead you to a certain point, you're also actually willing to admit you screwed up bigtime. Yeah it took a while, but wisdom comes at the expense of experience, it also requires actually acknowledging what went wrong as well as where you went wrong. There are a lot of people who experience something and decide not to learn from it then attempt it again without changing any variables whilst expecting a different outcome (this is the definition of insanity). It's sad that the machine died, but at least you proved once and for all (through experimentation and observation) the re-capping technique was a waste of time.

[@TengoReuma]

awesome! cannot wait for the next one

[@laptop6902]

This was awesome to watch, thanks for sharing your knowledge!❤

[@bzavacado]

Can’t wait to see more videos on the journey you have taken. It’s been really informative so far.

[@alking9901]

Time taken in horror of another ylod - priceless , for everything else there's mastercard

[@ulterreloaded134]

Your videos have been amazing to watch, i love the Xbox 360 with all my heart and that love also goes to the PS3, i really love these 7th gen consoles more than anything else. I have learned a lot with your videos about this gen and hope to see more of your future content.

[@chadenmccrindle3524]

amazing work! im so obsessed with the ylod ever since your first video! your obsession for finding the problem with the PS3 is contagious! it really makes me want to get into PC gpu repairs lol. or even to just start to mess with ps3s gpu trying to make my own Frankenstein haha

[@fss1704]

Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.

[@bentibz2750]

For me my obsession is my Xbox 360 phat. Tried the 3 rrod fix but it did not work, maybe the Hana chip needs replacing

[@adamatomant3381]

I just found this channel and it's a good one to find BEFORE you destroy a PS3.

[@tony359]

Amazing video, thanks for sharing your experience - and your mistakes, it's not common to see that. I love and hate your videos. Love because they are very informative. Hate because they basically tell me I've wasted time on those capacitors LOL! I've been testing with BGA for a while and went through the same "ghetto" equipment. I had a similar hot air station you have and really it was pointless to use with a large nozzle. First because of the very low airflow. But I also analysed the heat distribution with my thermal camera and - as we both experienced - you end up with such uneven temps under a large nozzle that the whole process was pointless. I went through the same "impatience" stage as well, with lots of ripped corners! You probably know this already, be cautious with your pre-heater, it comes not earthed from the manufacturer. Look forward to your next video.

[@ripfelix3020]

Yeah, been enjoying your vids on the T8280. I loved how you went to town installing a larger fan. TBH seemed like a lateral move, but it was fun to watch regardless. I agree about the loud fan being obnoxious, but I know exactly what you mean about it serving as an indicator of the temps by it's change in pitch...lol! I kinda want to keep it that way for that reason. Yeah, the earthing issue is a problem.

[@orbita1]

I have thoroughly enjoyed your videos and hope you can continue. Thanks! One bit of advice, You keep using the same used wick to clean the pads. You saturated the wick, you need to use a new bit of wick to continue.

[@emmettturner9452]

While a better iron and tip would certainly make a big difference, the footage early on of desolder braid and cold-soldered tantalum capacitors was possible to improve with better technique alone. First, pre-heat the solder before introducing freshly fluxed braid. Even better: Hover the braid above while pre-heating so that the braid is not as cold as it otherwise would be, but you don’t want it too hot since that will waste the flux. Even more important, cut the braid short and use tweezers even if it means you have to use multiple pieces. It’s pretty much impossible to saturate the tip of the braid that’s still attached to a large roll since the solder will just migrate further toward the roll but it’s important to recognize that the heat does the exact same thing (migrates). You can get a lot more solder per inch and much better flow while keeping the heat where it belongs with short pieces. I just might be the king of stingy solder braid technique. Sometimes I cut a piece so short that the strands have difficulty staying braided! For soldering the capacitors to such heavy contacts you definitely want to tin and pre-heat the contacts by holding your iron there before introducing the fluxed component to the already molten contact. The relative thermal mass of the capacitor is so low it will readily absorb the solder and the fresh flux on the capacitor and leave a good shiny joint. Obviously, you can’t do this on both sides simultaneously and the component will already be fixed in place after doing one side so you will need a different tactic on the other side. There you will have to create the thinnest possible heat bridge you can between the pad and the tip of your iron, only introducing fresh solder to the tip after it gets the pad up to temp. At the same time you want to bring the tip in contact with the capacitor so that it will get fresh solder with fresh flux core and bridge to the already-hot pad (if it hasn’t already). I do this kind of soldering with an obsolete Hakko clone that takes the old T18 tips (not cartridge-style). Heck, I’ve done much more extreme soldering including crypto mining ASIC boards with terminal blocks the size of cart battery terminals.

[@draconic5129]

The biggest problem with any of these quick fix solutions is that none of them bother to check the syscon error codes via the serial connection, it's not going to do you any good trying to fix something when you don't even know what's broken to begin with.

[@--_DJ_--]

How is this your third(?) video?? You present like you have been doing it forever. I couldn't care less about PS3 repairs, but I tell ya I'm hooked on this series.

[@superstar64]

I'm glad you're continuing with this series. I find electonic repair very interesting since it's my passion. I have a fat PS3, but I don't think I'm going to fix it, because it's a non-backward compatible system and is basically worthless compared to a slim model. I will definitely have to fix a true backward compatible A model some day.

[@brucedickinsonD5600hz]

More Videos Please Felix, i Love your videos!!

[@NightyWolf007]

Another ps3 that bite the dust keep going bro as a person that repairs things also playstation consoles i encourage you that keep learning and developing your repair abilities.

[@DFiNEdotnet]

Yes! Another video!

[@3abdangry]

I started reballing back in 2008 mainly HP dv series laptops, it took me about 100 attempts to finally get one working but boy it felt great to see the hp logo boot up. I did it for 5 years on, the repair lasted 6 to 24 months.

[@thedeadhp]

This channel is just what I needed. I can't wait for the next installment!

[@Notpoop906]

I empathise with this experience so much lol. It's such a defeating feeling when you aren't able to fix something or AT LEAST 100% confirm the issue so you can put it to rest. I always feel like I can't relax until there is a conclusion and it causes a lot of needless stress.

[@samuelgarcia7776]

Very interesting video!! I was almost literally glued to the screen watching this video!! One of the most interesting and well done videos I have seen in a long long time here on youtube!!!

[@emirbaran08]

Thank you for supporting Turkish subtitles i really needed it thank you.

[@ahkek89]

Lovely video. My friend and I are now currently embarking frankenstein mod for a A01 console. Really appreciate the work that you did and I see alot of lessons learnt along the way. Well respected Felix!

[@yackyyam]

Amazing video! Can't wait for the next chapter!

[@InvoxiPlayGames2]

Really interesting and insightful to see your learning process from the past few years. Can't wait to see the next one!

[@alectrona6400]

Great video! I was one of the unfortunate ones who fell for this "fix" (I even posted on that PSX place thread). I didn't own a device that could read the SYSCON until I bought an E01 and simply reflowed the RSX as a temporary fix. It surprisingly STILL works today with all the thermals redone and the delids successful, though I am sure that 90nm RSX will die someday. Might consider practicing RSX swaps on broken non-BC units that have bad RSX chips since I do want to get into BGA work, and then swap in a 40nm RSX. Hopefully someday I can find a working A model and do the same. You're doing god's work by explaining this debacle with these videos. :)

[@jorji_]

ive watched many a video like this and i've swear i've taken more away from this ONE video and your reports of trial and error than anything else in the same realm of content. so thank you! i'd love to see more and would even support a patreon to see you revive old consoles!

[@jeremygalloway1348]

Felix don't die man. Consumed 3 years of your life...how many of your 9 lives you got left?!

[@RonaldoTalison]

I'm really excited for the second video. Great narration!

[@Greystone]

Best series on yt right now

[@-eMpTy-]

Although I don't disagree with your conclusion that the Proadlizers weren't the main issue, Toshiba notebooks aren't the only devices were they massively failed. It's also the most common problem for the Asus Rampage Extreme (x48) as well as various GTX 470, 580 and 680 models (MSI Lightning, Gigabyte SOC, EVGA classified) and other PC hardware from that time. Proadlizers are the ideal caps on paper but yet they don't get used anymore.

[@seguramlk]

Awesome videos man. I didn't know those yellow caps had an ESR so high. I got 2 PS3s with the YLOD. I'mma try to change the caps because even though they are not always the problem, they can be A problem. If that doesn't work, it'll probably be the GPU that's dead. Anyways, you always learn in the process. Keep it up pal.

[@fss1704]

Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.

[@MITSI1991]

Happy to have you part of the community. I ended up getting a busted 60gb BC ps3 and much like you no luck with the recap. Im not going to be doing anything else cause the board itself is in great shape. So its one of those things that its best to send it to someone more capable than i am. Cause I wont pretend to know how to fix it. But I have my personal 20gb and 80gb both BC delidded and well taken care of and currently in my curio.

[@fss1704]

Using the same amount of capacitance than the tokin is a guaranteed fail, the tantalums near the heat source will increase capacitance faster than the others and if you don't increase the overall capacitance most of the current will flow to them increasing exponentially the current going to them. Ideally you shouldn't depend on it heating to achieve it's capacitance, and a ceramic cap to absorb the hf will help to decrease the heating.

[@halo3odst]

Im glad i stored my cechA away and sat on it. Maybe one day a fix will be found and ill spend the money to have somebody work on it. Im usually pretty good about fixing my own consoles, i have done so for many in the past. But i wont lie. The crap you have to do to keep a ps3 alive scares me. For now i just have a cfw cech 2101 as my main ps3

[@chadenmccrindle3524]

cant wait for ur next video

[@TheNikitis]

The issue was the GPU in your situation because it was slowly dying, Replacing the tantilums proves it was the GPU Dying but it worked because you overcame the default tantilum's capability to provide it some cleaner and sufficient power to overcome the failing of the GPU, but this forced the GPU to continue dying and get worse, so the fix is only temporary until the GPU burns out completely. Still needs an RSX replacement in most cases. Knowing this, it's also possible that doing a tantilum replacement early in the consoles life may provide cleaner power long before an RSX goes bad and prolong the life of the RSX potentially. This would be difficult to test however. Or sony could of used less defective RSX's on A01's.... Rip Gamergate.

[@TheCod3r]

Great video buddy, keep them coming!

[@pdrg]

Interesting, humble and entertaining video

[@lpoki8897]

Wow it's crazy how much we think alike, I'd not have spent my money in the same way but I'm right now thinking about getting a pre-heater and I do not need one. All because of this very informative video.

[@LetsPlayKeldeo]

I cant wait for the Next Video ! Amazing work so far

[@gizaha]

To share my knowledge: I destroyed my first ps3 trying to remove IHS. The distance between substrate and IHS at the opening side was 0.06mm (metered with feeler). Usually is way more from what i read and it's easy with paint knife as they say. In my case 0.06mm is extremely small gap so i was forced to use 0.04mm feeler to cut the silicone and despite my patience (cutting VERY slowly for 2 days) and caution, i destroyed traces over substrate.

[@roberlopes6773]

Que legal, nunca tinha assistido um vídeo como esse, os técnicos só mostram como são bons no que fazem, mas não expõe as dificuldade que passaram no início, muito legal gostei muito do seu vídeo e me identifiquei também, pois já passei por isso kk, peguei console pra experiência

[@al0egarten]

love your vids man keep it up

[@PuzzyMonsta]

1st gen PS5’s GPU problems have been being brought a lot into my store/shop and I’m straight up telling customers I’d rather not work on them unless it means the world to them

[@simon_96]

Thanks for the video I learned a lot of valuable lessons

[@nicolaspaesi2846]

I have fixed three consoles so far with recapping, two of them were turning on fine and then crashing when loading a game or playing one. One had instant yold, I have used a cutting knife to get rid of the tokins and soldered new caps only with the iron. The capacitors were recovered from dead laptops. 6 months all of them still working.

[@OrangeChan]

Amazing work.

[@Ayato1400]

Never stop making videos your stuff is amazing!

[@theri0n]

Your videos are so informative and fascinating. Kinda inspires me a little bit to try to fix my ylod ps3 that has been rotting away in my closet.

[@hoahimsmith7979]

I respect for your challenge !!

[@coisasnatv]

To deal with that ( 2:16 ), you need to preheat the board.

[@rfmerrill]

Agree. Preheating would definitely help.

[@thatonestickfigure5105]

You inspire me to be an electronical engineer

[@baseline4102]

i really enjoyed your videos , thanks alot with all my support 👍👏

[@Xtrafix2015]

Great job! I was always thinking about learning to reball but the experience is expensive

[@neilneilsexappeal]

Excellent work (again) I can't wait for part 2, thank you

[@Chezgatt2000]

Ótimo aprendizado, já minha primeira depressão em consertos foi em um notebook que no final explodiu um componente, fiquei dias e dias na depressão, por conta de estanho de má qualidade e ferramentas ausentes. Porém com aquele aprendizado consertei várias outras coisas e ter uma melhor noção em eletrônica, e claro, a placa mãe virou doadora inclusive ela tem esses capacitores de tantalo.

[@ripfelix3020]

Nice! Yeah, fixing broken electronics is a learning oppritunity if you are willing. And it can be a handy skill to have. But definately a learning curve!

you are an artist...

[@Stry-Glitch]

Coup de gras -> Coup de grace Awesome video mate

[@it-sd]

Good stuff, man. I hope you keep making videos.

[@derek20la]

15:28 Crazy to think about TDP being so high, and that it was normal. And today we have the Apple M2 chip at only 22W.

[@TonyFonzerelli]

thank you these videos! looking forward to more! I have an 80gb launch model and managed to get it to green LOD. =/ I've been very scared to touch it since. didn't replace the tokens but I did try the reflow method. idk if I'll ever try reballing my self but I'm still holding onto the console in hopes of finding someone qualified in my area to get it working again.

[@HarryAmoros]

A friend of mine gifted me his old ps3 which lasted only 10 minutes before turning off and giving me the YLOD. I'm on my quest to fix it anyways because it's a beautiful console, so this video is extremely educative! But since i dont have the equipment i might just send it to a professional. All i can do is just clean it and replace the thermal paste.

[@PinoyPSP3000]

One of the best video on YLOD :)