Fender Deluxe Reverb Reissue - They All Have This Problem (Yes, Probably Yours, Too)

[@camielkotte]

People should be enabled to fix their tools and stuff themselves or by a local expert imho. There is far too much waste in our economy. This guy is a gem and example of what we miss in our society, we need more sharing experts. No bullshit, straight to the core of things and fix it. I value this very much.

[@McSlobo]

While I agree people should be able to fix these by themselves, and in this case it can be done, they shouldn't be fixing something that can kill or injure them if they don't know what they're doing.

[@camielkotte]

@@McSlobo well, that is too me the same as people learning to drive a car, walk on the sideways and not in the middle of the road, matches are freely available(some countries still sell guns at supermarkets), use fork and knife safely. It all starts with a little education. For some it may be harder than for others. A lot of things can be taught. Usually it is harder to stop bad habits than to learn something new. I don't smoke, never did. Kills you as it turned out. I call it common sense. It made me an old man.

[@beatbaker7420]

agreed!

[@gregoryirwin263]

Videos like these a very much needed here on KZbin too many industry plants on here telling people how great these products are and not enough guys like you speaking the truth

[@ibberman]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@alafenetre81]

Yes, I agree 100%!

[@alexanderlee896]

Amen! This is the main reason I went solid state, too many corners being cut on tube amps, especially Supro and Fender. Gonna hold out for a boutique amp builder who can build me a 5E3 circuit.

[@J.C...]

Too many industry plants? Lmfao. Gtfo of here with that nonsense 🤣🤣🤣🤣 industry plants. Come on with that foolishness. It's gotta suck to be that paranoid that you think everybody is an industry plant any time they say anything positive about a company. Smfh. That's 100% ignorance and dumbassery. That's a pretty crappy existence. It's people like you that I deal with any time I talk positively about my guitars. I inevitably get accused of working for the company for one single reason alone. BECAUSE I HAVE GOOD THINGS TO SAY about my guitars. Yet every time, someone has the bright idea that "oh you must work for XXXXXX Company to say that, kind of stuff". Nope. I'm just extremely satisfied with the products I purchased. If that makes me an industry plant, you need to go back to grade school. Because that's just plain nonsense. If someone having good things to say = industry plant to you, you've got issues that need attention. Because that's not a logical progression of thought for any normal person.

[@danielebazzani]

Lots of experience needed to reach this level, thank you for sharing.

[@leifkeane]

Fender might be shysters, but when their amps work, they sound reeeeeeal nice.

[@mikegrisafi541]

I go into mini fits of rage just looking at how newer fenders are built...particularly that green PCB with the pots mounted which had to removed for what should be a quick easy pot cleaning. And the thing is, these really aren't that cheap at retail yet they're built with similar standards as disposable import gear.

[@douro20]

I wish they would do the same thing Peavey does with their amps where they have a line which hand wires those to harnesses which plug into the main PCB. It couldn't be THAT much more expensive, especially when you can contract out that kind of work.

[@fuzzb0x436]

@@douro20 except even new peavey are complete shit inside, all made off shore and as cheap as possible now and lots of micro components. You're better off learning how to build your own amp these days.

[@LTJR.]

@@fuzzb0x436 100% correct! I knew not much about building amps, but played throughout my life for my living. After a hospital stay and recuperation at home, I got bored and came up with the idea of getting on the computer and finding out about efx. There’s so many sites out there and that just lead me to the amplifier sites and since then I’ve built my own super reverb’s tweed deluxe, AC30, and worked on my own SuperLeads-No more paying for repairs or biases... as The popularity has grown so has the price of parts and such especially for cloning, but if you just want the performance of say a super reverb you could track down a fender bantam bass ‘69 + - I found one in a pawn shop for $300. It’s a one time model but it was built in surplus Super reverb chassis and cabinets from 64. It’s the same eyelet construction as all the rest of the black face era and it just has a large expanse of no parts on the board where the reverb and trem would be. You can just fill these with the right parts, and add 410s to the baffle if you want or whatever maybe a 10 and a 12 like I’m doing. The main point being if you want to get away fairly cheap grab a chassis and cabinet from something and build what you want into there. I built some thing called a tweed blues Meister which is something like a Dumble preamp into a fender tweed power section into a gutted fender super 60 1x12 chassis and cabinet. Oh and one more thing my 69 fender was completely unmolested 100% original with original brown electrolytic caps, and fully functional with no hum, it just needed a real good pot cleaning!

[@Ottophil]

@@fuzzb0x436 micro isnt bad, weirdo

[@gingercat777]

Same as Marshall......wasn't that long ago they had conductive circuit board issues.

[@rrswitch48]

Your attention to detail is rare and certainly appreciated. Great work!

[@montygore]

It shows the level tech you are. A lot of younger trchs dont understand how important it is to keep there iron tips clean. I put solder on my tips before turning the iron off to keep them in good shape.I am an rf tech as of late 1970s and have just started getting interested in guitar amp repair. Simple circuits but fun to learn tricks from you on the amps that only years of experience can be learned. Thanks for the nice videos.

[@tjsogmc]

I replaced the original caps on my 1977 Peavey amp last year. They still tested good, but I replaced them anyway due to their age. I'm happy to know that after 45 years quality control and material science has advanced to the point where caps only last 3 years instead of 30.

[@honkytonkinson9787]

It’s because we all really care about the environment 😅

[@malcolmhardwick4258]

This guy and his channel is a God send !!

[@the4thway51]

Your descriptions & thought sharing are really useful.

[@trbr1799]

Nicely done and explained. The extra detail in rationale and technique is appreciated. Great, as usual.

[@Tonetwisters]

I've said this before and I will say it again; Fender should be ashamed of themselves for building the junk amps they are building today. I cannot believe they cannot figure some other way to get better (as in, handwired) amps out to the market without breaking a player's bank, and still make a profit. I bought a 1964 Super Reverb, brand new, in early 1964. IIRC, the list was $400, which was A LOT OF MONEY in 1964, especially for a dirt poor kid whose parents had just divorced the fall before. My brother got us a deal on two Fenders for $325 each and we were able to get them financed. I STILL HAVE IT. So it has been a good life-long investment (I was 16 then; I am now 73 years old). That amp is well worth spending $300-400 repair dollars on, any day of the week. BTW: ALWAYS use GOOD quality filter caps. My choice is the ATOMS. They last for years and more than likely, will not let you down on stage. I NEVER had a handwired Fender amp quit on me on stage and I spent 35 years as a weekend warrior.

[@thomaspick4123]

Fender is run by Ashkenazi Khazar Jews now. These people are not the same as the Hasidic Jews or the Sephardic Jews. The Ashkenazi Khazars are also more in line with the Sadducees, who believe in no afterlife. So, they believe in screwing you out of your money. This group is responsible for all the wars and misery in the world since about 1700 A.D.

[@didamnesia3575]

Yeah, that's $4052 now. So yeah, hand wired amps cost 2500 now, not 4000. So, sounds like you should figure out the math before just insulting fenders pricing model. 2500 feels like more now because wages haven't kept up with inflation in relation to the middle class.

[@honkytonkinson9787]

@@didamnesia3575a hand wired super reverb would cost more than $2500. One that is as good as vintage would probably be at least $3500 new.

[@leiferickson3183]

Sweet Video! I fixed amps for about 10 years, and I am plenty happy to not have to deal with these anymore. The worse ones were when they would wrap 2-3 pc's around the inside of the "Tweed style" amps and all the connections would be a nightmare to reassemble without breaking more solder joints. Yuck. My standard spiel was to tell everyone to get rid of the amp and buy an old silverface fender from the late 60's into the early 70's because they had great potential and they were so easy to fix that they would pay way less in the long run. Those amps were still pretty cheap back then in the 90's. Subscribed!

[@jamesesc]

Wow... Just changed the filter caps on my five year old 68 Deluxe Reverb reissue to the three 22 microfarad and one 47 microfarad F & T capacitors with the jumper pin as you did in this video and what a pleasant surprise! The amp sounds a whole lot better and with a lot less noise... Other than the job of scraping the factory applied glue off of the old caps and PCB board, as well as unsoldering the pins from the old caps it is a relatively straightforward remove & replace project as long as you have a steady hand and basic soldering skills... Thanks so much Psionic!! Made an already nice sounding amp actually sound better!

[@joesmith8398]

...and this is exactly why so many buyers have bought from small, independent so-called "boutique" builders.

[@williambock1821]

I appreciate what you’re doing here ,Lyle. If I saw this video when I started really getting interested in amps a few years back, it would’ve saved me a lot of time resoldering things in the beginning! And it’s always good to have remedial lessons from time to time. Thanx!

[@curtolmscheid1661]

I was able to successfully replace the crappy filter Capps on my 65 DRRI with F&T caps. (My first time replacing that many components)Wow! What a difference they make. The amp sounds so much better. I was surprised at how much difference it made. Thank you for these videos. You’re fantastic!!!

[@ClarenceHW]

Love watching you work and the running commentary. Thanks for these, they're great reminders to take care of basics first.

[@stephenbalenger]

Great Video. At 14:00 he said that he uses his old cutters to trim guitar strings. I stopped doing that 40 years ago. Here is what I do. After putting on a string, and wrapping it properly around the peg, I stretch it several times with my thumb and index finger, once ALL of the slack is out and the string stays in tune, I then just wiggle the excess string back and forth until it breaks off. No more stabbing your hands on those deadly sharp-cut strings. I play blues and do a lot of bending, and my strings never slip and stay in tune very well.

[@got2rock4]

Awesome video great job and attention to details. Im in the process of restoring my princeton stereo chorus with all new pots,jacks and new mojotone reverb tank. And im replacing power supply capacitors as well the amp is 33 years old but it has a great clean tone. Which is how i stumbled on your video. Thanks for sharing 👍👍

[@DoctorEnigma01]

This is the Twoodfrd of amplifiers channel, both are educational and therapeutic

[@AlanJan_UK_49]

Thanks for a fabulously detailed video. Wish you were in the UK !

[@Terbs-24]

Thanks for saving me allot of money in repairs with this issue. Straight after delivery of this amp i had many issues, thankfully covered under warranty. One big one i had was the fuse blowing every time i turned the amp off. This one i figured out through help from a few groups online that shared simillar problems. It was a bad Rectifier tube and once replaced and adding a slo blow fuse, this issue was fixed. I am pretty sure the issue here in this video will happen to my amp eventually so yeah, cant thank you enough in advance for saving me some money. Cheers.

[@halbertking2683]

About 30 years ago my friend said Fender used to make Zippos . Now they make Bics. I would say now they amps that make Bics look like Zippos.

[@cgavin1]

Hahaha brilliant!

[@bobwasmycat]

I have the original blonde reissue from the initial 1993 limited edition run, since new. It made it 27 years before I recapped it all. No leakage, just preventative maintenance. And it did have the same IC caps, where F&T now live happily.

[@PsionicAudio]

I’m glad to hear it. You got very lucky, but it does happen.

[@bobwasmycat]

@@PsionicAudio I have no doubt the cheap caps Fender uses leak. I just wanted to point out that not ALL of them leak immediately. I'm sure they got cheaper as production increased. Maybe the first run were slightly higher quality. I couldn't say for sure. Zero issues in 27 years speaks volumes to me though.

[@flamenco1]

Fantastic info and very well produced video. Thank you so much James

[@threeonamatchventura]

Love this video. I have a PTP 1966 Super Reverb combed through by a tech to be reliable . 400 bucks and it’s amazing. Picked it up for 1000.00 , 400.00 in repairs and it’s less money overall than a new DRRI with all this BS inside it. Fender needs to do better . Offer a good one for 50 bucks more with good filter caps.

[@jeffsquires6620]

I had a hot rod deluxe. My amp tech told me he wouldn't even look at it. The work he did on my 60 and 70 fenders was incredible. Had them restored to original spec removing decades of mods. I gave the hotrod to a friend of my sons. Whose father died onstage during a soundcheck. I believe he was working with Adam Levine at the time.

[@normpeterson5137]

woah how did he die

[@jeffsquires6620]

@@normpeterson5137 I gave the amp to a young man whose father died. It was in perfect condition.

[@Boomsterblak]

Mine went down just days before warranty...had a new years gig had to drive 3 hours to get a replacement..three hours to get back to the gig...been good ever since..about 15 years now..great sounding amp

[@mrthunder8190]

Love your channel. I have a lot of tube amps, including a DRRI. I bought mine in 1991, one of the first reissues into the Seattle area. It has been one of my favorite amps for 31 years, and surprisingly, it is still on its original caps. Yes, I know it's time to replace, on my "to-do" list, even though the amp is still functioning perfectly and the caps are not leaking. F and T's are ordered up. Just wanted to illustrate how the influx of crappy components the last couple of decades and Fenders decision to go with them has hurt their reputation. I've got two dead amps right now, very nice Rivera and also an Egnater Renegade. They were my go-to amps for gigging for years, great sounding and versatile amps. Rivera has super high quality components. When the time came for re-capping, both were nearly impossible to work on. The Rivera has a ton of little caps that are difficult to access, remove and replace. The Egnater is cheap Chinese construction, also difficult to access and replace the cheap filter caps. Ease of maintenance should be an important part of designing a tube amp, but maybe manufacturers these days figure that people will just throw them in the landfill when the caps go bad. Or, they erroneously believe that there are all kinds of great amp techs out there that work for 20 dollars an hour...Sad, and short-sighted. I'm starting a pile for dead amps, maybe someday I'll build something from some of the parts. In the meantime, I'm sticking with with my old amps that are actually serviceable. Thanks for your excellent videos, really appreciate you sharing all your knowledge!

[@cpfs936]

Just discovered your channel. Love your demeanor and temperament. Reminds me of Uncle Doug!

[@Geopholus]

Great video, ! I really appreciate Your experience, and attention to detail. Fender stopped making decent amps in 1983 or so. There have been a very few Fenders made as "re-issues" that are not too bad, in the early or mid 90's. There are so many issues with crappy parts, pots, boards, push on lugs , bad circuit layout etc, i usually do not work on those made after 1983 any more. There is absolutely no need to glue down caps. Silicone glue produces concentrated acetic acid when it cures, i don't know if the "non-reactive" type really is non corrosive or reactive. Hot melt glue is less problematic, that way, and easy to remove, as isopropanol makes it release, but i can see no reason to use anything, as it was in the old days. For C 31 & 32,... It makes zero sense to have series caps of unequal value as the voltage does not distribute evenly across the two when they are different values.

[@keithrevst692]

Amazing, I just had my pro tube twin fixed that had this exact issue about a month ago. It was over $400

[@pkdude5334]

I was very close to buying this amp and now after watching this and reading the comments, I think I'll look for a hand built amp elsewhere. Thank you!

[@rcgillsympaticoca]

Great video, thank-you! I appreciated seeing your technique and explanation of the mechanical attachment of the components before soldering. The only thing I felt was missing was hearing what is sounded like when it came in but it sure sounds good now. :-)

[@stevewardguitars1661]

I would like to add that a design flaw in this amp is the fitting of a fusible resistor R69 in the bias supply. I have seen a few of these go on amps in my workshop. This leads to the output valves having no neg bias and then drawing full current. There is no HT fuse so the valves burn the rectifier burns and then the transformer overheats and finally its internal non replaceable thermal fuse burns out. The transformer is a warranty period only replacement part from fender. The only replacement that would physically fit is from TAD. This transformer has a higher bias voltage winding so some mods to the supply will be required . Be warned ! change R69 for a standard 1 watt type.

[@ErosGalaxia]

About 10-15 years ago, Illinois Capacitor made very questionable caps and Fender ordered a huge batch of basically defective capacitors that made their way into a lot of their amps. Replace them with high quality capacitors and the amp is good again.

[@RasCuban33]

My Peavey Classic 20 MH from 2009 has these IC caps, I’m gonna have to do this and replace with F&Ts at some point. 👍🏽

[@juliochingaling5824]

Always a great video.

[@gwgwgwgw1854]

Very informative! Wonderful to see the repair and learn about how corners are being cut to save a very small amount of money in manufacturing.

[@jameswebb1010]

I really really enjoy your videos man. if you pay attention, you just might learn something. very truly grateful

[@uptownphotography]

Interesting video...as always. Phil NYC Area

[@goodun2974]

At 8:40, Get yourself an OLFA utility knife, the type with the snap off blades so you always have a fresh sharp tip available. They are surgically sharp, much sharper than any brand of standard utility knife blade that I have tried. I never much cared for that type of snap off razor knife in the past but several models of OLFA knives have a large thumb wheel to lock the blade and not just a little plastic locking lever. Get the 18mm size ( blade width). The blades are high carbon steel and they are scary sharp, especially the black anodized blades, which are double honed. They're also relatively thin, and flexible enough to skim along the surface of the board as you cut all of that silicone off.

[@el_micha]

I second that! By far my favorite snap-off blade cutter knife is an 18mm OLFA, model "ARBN-L". It's got said large thumb wheel which let's one adjust the blade between loose, reasonable tight but moveable or fixed rocksolid. Also it can be operated single-handed which comes in handy at times when you got to readjust. It has a solid metal lining for the blade and overall build quality is very good! Ergonomics also nice and a very clean design. As OLFA is Japanese, so is the blade company, TAJIMA. Those black blades are the sharpest on the market, noticeably sharper than your run-of-the-mill blades. They're called RAZAR black blades, made by TAJIMA.

[@hugeshows]

Cheap caps have been the bane of Fenders for a while. I briefly worked as an authorized tech back in the early 2000s, and even then I was recapping these reissue amps (and replacing lots of TLO72). With regard to your decision to delete the series filter caps, the success of that probably depends somewhat on the over-voltage capability of those capacitors. With a solid state rectified setup, that B+ voltage will be quite high until the power tubes warm up and start drawing full current, pulling the B+ voltage down to reasonable operating levels. That first filter stage takes a pounding when the amp is warming up. (EDIT - I have since realized that's a tube rectified amp, hence a reissue, duh, but this comment does apply somewhat to tube rectified amps with directly heated cathodes as they warm up faster than the output tubes)

[@mattg082]

You are not lying I returned 4 recent Fender amps. All had issues, and Fender tech pointed out so many flaws, and cheap components. I said screw it and bought a Tone King Imperial MK2, because Fender just wouldn’t cut it with any of the new reissues. Even the new 68 Custom Pro Reverb 40w that I wanted to love, had trouble on 2 sent to me. Just thankful to Sweetwater for letting me exchange past 30 days, as the Fender Goldstar Tech pointed out such issues. Only thing now on my Tone King is a possible bright cap mod…but it has an attenuator, so it’s a work around for some pedals that may sound harsh at low volume.

[@rwdplz1]

Those blue capacitors are the same ones Radio Shack used to sell. I used to see those gray IC caps in super cheap consumer electronics.

[@raymondmoreno7442]

Thank you sir for great video helpful 👍

[@theofulk5636]

Very informative, thank you for your explanation and expertise !

[@blacktoothfox677]

You are the fucking SAINT of off-the-shelf clean guitar tone. Sir, I thank you, seriously, from the bottom-end of my heart. Best regards from the UK, shall now subscribe with a happy alacrity!

[@threeonamatchventura]

I like the Fender Deluxe reverb re issue . I might buy one. Can anyone give me a price range to take a new DRRI to a tech and get the components that fail replaced ? That way I can factor a price for a reliable one?

[@seandoubleu]

This channel is fantastic. Thank you!

[@j81851]

Just discovered your channel and will be back! Thank you for your frank and honest comments. I believe a manufacturer that screws his customers on purpose using his reputation to support that procedure is despicable. Fender needs to listen up here as their dirty deed that they own 100% has been revealed to the world! The LAST thing an audio amp manufacturer should do is cheat on Capacitors! Use the best, customers are happy. 5.00 more for the amp at purchase time would go a long way if the amp lasts 15 years instead of 5 minutes (pun intended) as this one did! Great job truly enjoyed the video!!

[@WingmanStudios]

As a Fender customer, I have to say this is beyond disappointing. They just lost a customer for life for f***ing over their customers with their cheap tactics. I am beyond disgusting and disappointed here. A $1500 amp should not break 5 minutes after the warranty expires. This is ridiculous. I will never buy another Fender product again because of shoddy worksmanship and deliberately faulty designs like this.

[@TheCousinEddie]

Great video, sir! Appreciate all the great tips and clear explanations. You are a natural teacher.

[@DanHomeAtLast]

Confirmed my suspicion about these caps, thanks for the info 👍

[@dep1001]

Someone who knows what he's talking about! Sadly getting rare these days...

[@jakollee]

Wow, I was thinking of getting one of these amps soon, now I’m not so sure! Great video, my only suggestion is it would have been nice to hear you play thru the amp before your repairs, to hear the hum and squeal. Thanks!

[@PsionicAudio]

They are fine amps once these problems are addressed. Preventative maintenance is money well spent. When I know an amp has failing filter caps I don't power it on before changing them. I've had them blow up on the bench and it's a terrible mess and a lasting bad smell, aside from damage they can do to PCBs.

[@jakollee]

@@PsionicAudio Ah, I see. Thanks for explaining. You really know your stuff. Any chance you’re in the NYC area?

[@PsionicAudio]

No, Memphis, but get in touch with my friend Lane Sparber in Queens. He knows all the things to do to make DR RIs sound better and last longer. He's on FB and IG.

[@jakollee]

@@PsionicAudio thanks for the recommendation!

[@PsionicAudio]

Tell him I sent you. Lane's a great guy and a great tech.

[@gregoryz6545]

Hahah. Spooge!!! I just found your channel and I LOVE IT!

[@Krashulka]

Good job. I like your tip for cutting the extra length off the legs before soldering, solders alot faster before making everything too hot. Cheers

[@richardmerriam7044]

Even in the hand wired series, Fender uses garbage caps. I used Sprague caps for many years, but they have become way too expensive. F&T really are the best overall choice for electrolytics. Great video!

[@klm2395rh]

I've been watching for comments on the hand wired series.

[@ericmorrison794]

64 custom comes with sprague atom caps I have one and I'm sure that princeton does to

[@ericmorrison794]

@@klm2395rh I have one and it doesn't sound as good as a real 64 or a proper clone the problem is the output transformer is cheap.i have a clone that blows it away.buy a clone from mojo tone then find a real blackface output transformer.way better and cheaper

[@MrCayoCoco]

I fixed Blues reissue a while back, had a bad solder joint on pin 7 of the second 12AX7. I dare say it'll be back before long after watching this.

[@mubodude]

I had a British Laney that I went to clean the faceplate on with a cloth and a little WD-40. Unknown that the lettering was dry rotted silk screen or something that completely wiped off entirely!

[@blacktoothfox677]

Ha! Live and learn... So long as you didn't wipe the sound out, all is well I guess! Take it easy mate, regards from the UK

[@PsionicAudio]

Yeah, Marshalls and Laneys with the metal panels have no clear coat over the silkscreen. Feather light touch with a soft dry cloth is all the cleaning you can do.

[@mubodude]

@@PsionicAudio Actually, thinking, back it was just a damp cloth. Then I rubbed my finger across it and it just flecked off. You could still see the faint outline so you knew which control was which. Then the Dymo red labels!

[@blacktoothfox677]

@@PsionicAudio - I use a nice fat unused paintbrush with soft bristles. - gets in all those little nooks, some of which may have been harbouring dust from the actual summer of love! Haha.. EXCELLENT channel man so glad I found you.

[@daveduffy2823]

Everything that is massed produced today is made to break or wear out in a few years. This is not surprising. I am glad that it’s something that is fixable, so you don’t have to trash the amp. I hope that once this is fixed, something else doesn’t go bad and there is a cascade of failures.

[@jonathanhorne6503]

I’ve had nothing but trouble with IC caps. I bought a bunch of them and used them on my builds and repairs before I realized they were crap. I’ve had repair my work returned for rework more than once. Live and learn. Spend the money for good parts and save your reputation.

[@ericspr]

Really helpful! Thank you! Next intermitent reverb issue.

[@singleplayer75]

After watching closely some of your videos I'm a new subscriber. I was actually interested in buying a 56' Deluxe Reverb RI here in Europe but after seeing a few of your videos that's just not gonna happen. It's price in Europe is 1700EUR and now when I know how crappy these things are made I just gave up the idea, if I find a used one for half the price prefferably lower (even that would be too expensive too), I may get one and I'll give it nice ride to a tech the second i get it. Bad solder joints, bad tubes, bad filter caps, loose connections, flimsy wiring...it's just too much crap right out of the box to even consider buing a new one at retail price. I might even consider ordering a clone, anything is way better than paying 1700EUR for a piece of crap. What's more, they (Fender) have been doing it like this for ages, with no improvement to QC. They should be ashamed.

[@peppik]

Great video! Thanks for that. Keep up the good work :)

[@kbkman7742]

Why go to the trouble of handwiring the sockets but try to save a few dollars on filter caps?

[@book3100]

The "broken window fallacy" alive and well.

[@alphabeets]

I just don’t understand why they can make dry capacitors that never dry out in these large values. Why do they need the wet electrolyte?

[@imannonymous7707]

The customer is always wrong is now the credo of most manufacturing companies. Their truth is we live in a disposable world . And quality sales and service is going the way of the buffalo. As is brick and mortar stores owned by ... and worked by people who pride themselves in hard work and a fair deal. Quality watching here.... thank ya

[@rillloudmother]

The buffalo analogy is even more apt than some might think at first glance.

[@jimcole6423]

Thank you for sharing! Great info!

[@lifemusicstudios]

Glad I found your videos. I love my 68' reissue Princeton but the bass is WAY too much! Like it is on 2 and still bassy! I figured swapping speaker and need to fix a few resistors and odds. I had an 83' Fender (Rivera) Concert that was amazing and you sure hear the diff in newer fender amps. I wish you were closer as I am in Canada. Thanks for your videos.

[@curtisburns]

Literally just had this problem fixed on my Deluxe.

[@davidisenberg125]

you sir are a bad ass !!!!!

[@johnclarke5711]

Great vid! My Bassbreaker15 effects loop hums.

[@stevenmoffitt1643]

I like your soldering tech. It's hard to believe that Fender wouldn't get the same price for either Cap

[@oldgittarist]

Excellent demo and info.

[@sukoelpiucho]

Did you have to discharge the old caps, before you clipped them? Or can you just clipp them without discharging them?

[@PsionicAudio]

Always discharge and confirm with a meter.

[@torchmd]

Awesome video. I owe you a beer.

[@bluesbagdelta399]

Check the controls if they are loose they will be noisy, it is simple to start with a check like that! Hopefully it helps!

[@AngusNB]

Your videos are great. When I do a Google search on an amp issue and your videos come up I know I'm going to get an intelligent answer. 3:10 To be fair, the MBA is trying to appease the Board of Directors. I would rather pay the extra $5 up front Fender. Let's split it, $2.50 each. 🙂

[@bluesbondsman]

Great video

[@IgnisIban]

Great video and information, I would use a 33 uf on the main reservoir cap and 16uf on the other nodes as the original specs calls for, I end up doing these on most modern fender reissues to get the original response cuz most of them have bigger capacitor which is fine to reduce the 60 cycle hum but they make the amp attack response too tight and sterile, one thing I love from the vintage ones is the looser feeling and this apart from the speaker is what I found separate the sound from the reissues, Fender is using 47 to 50uf on the reservoir and 22uf on the nodes on new ones and that make them very tight and sterile sounding for my taste, just MHO

[@michaeltobin643]

I like a guy that uses the term 'spooge' (sic); not enough utilization of descriptors like that these days (except in guitar/amp repair vids). It used to mean something more nefarious back in the day, however lol!

[@thesurfjunkies]

Fantastic video, thank you. Picking a used one up today, hoping that hum isn’t present so can I at least have some time with the amp before caps go south.

[@WingmanStudios]

Thank you for this video!

[@robertdurrwachter]

Nice!

[@philipmonaghan8267]

Well said ! Thank you!!!

[@fekkyb]

Awesome. 😎👍🏽

[@robertnorrell9073]

you're very skilled at this my friend ,I learned a lot here I've got a '65 Fender Deluxe blackface ( no reverb, sadly ) to re cap soon. Not quite the same but some of your suggestions here make sense no matter what you do, like the wattage/temp of soldering iron and the way you mount the caps . Thanks ! :-)

[@JaffaRoad]

Cool video - can you please explain what the functional / sonic symptoms are when those caps start leaking? - thanks

[@SaladDays83]

Whats the purpose of the silicone under the caps?

[@JohnShalamskas]

I too would like to know the answer to this question. My guess is that the large capacitors put enough stress on the solder joints that they can cause crystallization and a failed joint after being vibrated by the speakers for hundreds of hours.

[@voodoojimih2712]

It is the exact same way cars are designed. They will test a component say a brake caliper and speck it out to last the lifetime and then reduce its specks till it just fails at the desired time/mileage, all to save a few bucks and rip you off on repairs down the road when the warranty is up.

[@glencruciani]

Would you think these cheap caps are used on the 64 Handwired Deluxe Reverb?

[@jasonivan1726]

I would hope not.

[@10ken1958]

As said in my trade, the cost of the amp was 'value engineered'.

[@ruthiesbbq]

Can you review the Marshall JTM STUDIO

[@victorbeebe8372]

Mahalo Lyle!

[@WorldsOkayestGuitarPlayer]

I just got the 65 reissue for my birthday. I absolutely love it but would you suggest going ahead and doing this of waiting on the caps to go bad?

[@CarlitoM77]

Hey how's the 65 reissue treatin ya? I'm about to get one delivered Monday but this video and a few others has me thinking twice. 🤔

[@WorldsOkayestGuitarPlayer]

@@CarlitoM77 it’s been treating me great!

[@tomk4092]

does this impact reissue princetons from 2020 onward by any chance?

[@AaronHubley]

Thanks so much for the videos! It's fun watching you work on amps. So much that I attempted the capacitor swap myself haha.. This was on my deluxe reverb reissue. I even got rid of C31 cap and ran the jumper wire. Now when I turn the amp on, it's got a very loud hum and I noticed the tubes are starting to glow red. I turned off and unplugged immediately until I understand what's going on. Do i need to adjust the bias? Any idea what's happening? All my solder joints looked good imo. Not sure what's happening. Thanks :)