Final 100' of Exposed Climbing to the Summit - 14er Mt. Wilson

GoPro footage showing the last 100-ft climb to the Mt. Wilson summit, including the class 3/4 move just below the summit.
We climbed both El Diente and Wilson on this excursion, via the Class 4 Wilson-El Diente Traverse. Both peaks are Colorado 14ers. Read my full trip report here: www.bergmaierph...
Website: www.bergmaierph...
Instagram: / bergmaierphotography

[@gdogg47]

Those clouds would've had me concerned

[@toughenupfluffy7294]

When I climbed this with Daren in 1986 there was a big slab about the size of a baby grand piano near the top. When we were both on it, it slid down a little, scaring the crap outta us. It looks like that slab must've fallen in the intervening ~37 years, as it's no longer there.

[@rinsecycle]

Exactly. That’s what I’m thinking about looking at this video. Never heard of Mount Wilson, but this rock just doesn’t look stable the way they’re grabbing onto it it looks like a boulder could easily fall back on them.

[@rothberg4334]

I saw this video and thought there was no way I could climb this mountain. Then at the false summit I saw the much safer route 50 ft. below the ridge. Thanks for making this epic video.

[@av3453]

Do you happen to have a route of that? or any kind of indicator/picture where this is in relation to the route the filmer took?

[@ffejkk37]

Getting back down is the hard part.

[@jonhill373]

I climbed this almost forty years ago. My last fourteener. Quite possibly the most demanding of all 54 IMHO.

[@dignusferox2570]

I got to downclimb that bit in a hailstorm with static buzzing around us after a freak storm moved in at 11am. Lesson learned-next time start from Kilpacker so I don't have to downclimb that to get to Rock of Ages.

[@markb3806]

Can you climb from Kilpacker Basin and avoid this ridge? I understand there is a 3rd? class route from Kilpacker Basin. I climbed El Diente from Kilpacker and was slowed somewhat by the heinous scree that comprises the basin. That approach for Mt Wilson unfortunately would mean even more scree.

[@stevesims2243]

Wow that loose rock looks scary as hell. Imagine the forces that thrust this formation up, and crumbled all that stone. One good quake and it looks like it would come down.

[@bobbywest8864]

That's a serious knife edge dude good job dudes

[@d77tutt]

One of the scariest ascents I've been on.

[@paulhackney3184]

I grew up and still live in Florida and terrified of heights. Call me a wimp but this video makes me uncomfortable just watching it. You are a brave sole and congrads.

[@davehughesfarm7983]

Dang looked unstable as all can be..But the rocks sticking together defying gravity..

[@tflnc]

I think whoever developed the GoPro wanted to design something that would ensure hand-sweating moments for anyone viewing videos like this, which make this exposed ridge look pretty extreme. It also looks as if it would very easy to pull on -- or step on -- a loose rock at any moment on that final ridge. I have no trouble with exposure -- except when I'm on loose rock. How dangerous is this route from that perspective?

[@icebergmaier]

The portion of the ridge in this video was surprisingly solid actually, and I don't remember feeling sketched out by loose rock at all

[@tflnc]

@@icebergmaier Thanks! I plan on climbing this one or its neighbors in the Chicago Basin next summer.

[@user-bs5jp8fz7r]

The shaky camera makes it hard to judge ....

[@michaelcapeless3268]

So typical of the 14-ers... just feel like the whole pile of bricks is going to come down as you pull on it...

[@jx14aby]

That is a big pile of rocks.

[@brewcider]

I would have hit the SOS button on my Garmin Inreach for a heart attack

[@jeremywendelin]

“ how did I just do that “ lmao 😂

[@luvdriven540i]

Very awesome! Good job, men!

[@user-lc6ft6bh7w]

Class 4 means you need rope protection. Clearly they did. This is why people die. I'm a Search and Rescue team member in the Sierra and we have had multiple climber fatalities this year on class 4 sections. Just saying...

[@markpatterson8922]

Besides your skill as a climber, your life depends on the solidity of a pile of broken rock shards (many weighing a fraction of what a person weighs), most of which will be gone from their spot in the next blink of geologic time.

[@summit2117]

Mostly class 3 screaming at it's finest on the standard route. Nice work!

[@Ja50nkAt]

That's a choss pile. One block comes off that you grab the wrong way and you're finished.

[@ksuds08]

Some airy moves there!

[@georgesheffield1580]

Class 3,4,5 ? Class 3 hands and feet , Class 5 roped for protection ( can solo ), Class 4 is Class 3 for those that think it is Class 5 and may need rope. The Wilson group is so rotten a rope for protection is highly recommended although it is only Class 3 . Often low level Class 5's ( 5.o - 5.6) are safer ,even solo than crumbly ,loose ,sketchy Class 3/4.

[@jodylowe8476]

I dont think I could trust that stack of rocks you guys are climbing over to get to the top.

[@orogenicman]

Insane.

[@dmbeaster]

That is a class 4 move. Not a bad one, but a harder class 3 move plus big exposure. That moves it to class 4 even though not objectively difficult moves.

[@localchumb]

what's it like going down that last 100 feet? I always find it so weird going backwards

[@thosearentpillows5638]

No need. You’re at the top.

[@CS-zb3km]

What kind of gloves do you wear???

[@markdesaint-rat4905]

The Beehive offers PG climbing with more stability followed by bracing swim at the Sand Beach.

[@dianar1249]

I hope ya'll are still alive and well. Terrifying 😱 hobby.

[@tomsexton3625]

Thats scares the the hell out-of me.

[@TheHungaryJack]

Good lord. I would not want to be near that rotten rock on that knife edge

[@marshal4521]

How are you not scared

[@18pablo88]

I'm getting vertigo on the couch watching

[@lexstacks6944]

You have parachutes in your backpacks right? Just in case..

[@localchumb]

what kinda gloves are those? Do you recommend those? My hands tend to get sweaty :P

[@icebergmaier]

Oh those are just some cheap, generic work gloves I got at Walmart actually. They've lasted me about 3 seasons and I've had no issues with them. I mainly wear them to keep my hands from getting torn up by the rocks when climbing.

[@artherladett442]

No room for error

[@zilch7116]

I thought there was a 400 foot vertical climb here?

[@derekgless1266]

Just a little a'sposed.

[@alexandermbergh]

Is that the only route up to the summit?

[@allanfarr]

I think I would stop and be happy with summit minus 100. Not worth dying.

[@goldcat1844]

I'd paraglide back down.

[@TomAllnatt]

I nearly pissed myself

[@telena5042]

I wanted to throw up just watching this. Jesus my legs would give out on me if I were there.

[@mya5980]

Which trail head did you take ?

[@icebergmaier]

Kilpacker Basin TH

[@bryanward1300]

How long did the traverse take summit to summit?

[@icebergmaier]

It took us about 3.5 hours summit to summit, although we probably could have done it in 3 hrs or less if we hadn't been taking our sweet old time

[@Don-Michael]

Sweaty palms

[@rommelnavarrette2831]

I love to hike, but class 0 is as high as ill go.

[@robertkeller5930]

We did that on acid.

[@colinnoel493]

Is that class 3 or 4 scrambling?

[@icebergmaier]

Mostly class 3 with one class 4 move near the top

[@mtnbound2764]

dude that last part was sketchy af

[@trouterman420]

i could do this drunk

[@davehughesfarm7983]

only way i would do it..

[@allanfarr]

Dude, those rocks are not stable. Lol