Homemade Power Scraper Part 1

[@wildoargandona9876]

awesome. im gonna try,

[@WekaWindows]

did you time the music to the parting snafu?? i genuinely spat my drink all over my screen, maybe i should go to bed.

[@chronokoks]

1:43 I spit out the cola i was drinking :D :D awesome video man

[@publicprofile1]

Parting is so hard....

[@randomentity6553]

@@publicprofile1 It is a rare and wonderful thing to show the world you're human like the rest of us. Great video - Keep up the good work!

[@1873Winchester]

I'm thinking of using a polisher instead of a reciprocating saw. They have more of the right shape from the start, as well as variable speed built in. There is also a gearbox that puts the rotary motion in the right plane. There is no reciprocating setup to start from, but looking the amount of modification & fabrication you had to go through I am not sure it's more work to go that way. I think an angle grinder might also work, if there is such a thing as an angle grinder with a decent speed control, the one I used to have was very weak at low speeds.

[@publicprofile1]

This thing work really good at removing material. It is a bit jerky. The handle on the front/top works really good. Being able to control the speed and length of the stroke is key. What polisher are you looking at?

[@1873Winchester]

@@publicprofile1 I have an old polisher that I was thinking of using, if I can figure out a good way to attach a reciprocating section, the ideal would be to make it removable since I do use the polisher from time to time. Another key factor I believe in making a good power scraper, is to make sure the metal flatbar holding the carbide bit is flexible and springy and not stiff. That's how I built my hand scraper as well. Stefan Gotteswinter also commented on how important that bit was in making the Biax scraper feel better than the Renz in a video where he went over it.

[@mtraven23]

@@1873Winchester you end up doing this? if so, howd it work out?

[@aolrohan]

Hi, i really appreciate and loved the work you have done, and by seeing yours i was trying to make it one for myself So i was thinking can you please help me with some of these dimensions so that it will be easy for me to get through.?

[@publicprofile1]

Which measurements do you need?

[@aolrohan]

@@publicprofile1 some of the parts that you have made in it; welded pcs with slot in it and the slider slotted pin, the taper pcs for holding the scraper tool and the cover which you made of steal and rest some parts which you made on your own. if you dont mind sharing these details please. my email: [e-mail]

[@aolrohan]

@@publicprofile1 waiting 😊

[@mtraven23]

im working on one of my own right now. my wrists just cant take hand scraping anymore. I like your tslot stroke length adjustment, more elegant than what I had sketched up. been a couple years since you post this, hows the tool holding up?

[@publicprofile1]

Works great. I ran it for a few days after I made it to scrape in a couple steel surface plates. Steel is awful to scrape compared to cast. But it wants to dig into the metal too much. I really think blade shank thickness is important to get it to skate across the surface like you see in biax videos. Mine really wants to hammer the surface. The Biax is not magic, the stroke adjustment mechanism is pretty cool, but the stroke is still reciprocating. I might order some spring steel today.

[@mtraven23]

@@publicprofile1 fascinating. glad to see you are having some success, with room for improvement. I too am transitioning to steel scraping. Similar findings--blade wants to dig, which for me is the opposite problem I had with cast iron--always had trouble keeping the tool into the work. Can I assume you've read up on tool angles for steel? what's your project being scraped? Today, I find myself hand scraping the ways of my power scraper, lol. what kind of spring steel did you order? Most of my handles are just mild steel, but I made 1 a while ago out of a steel straight edge(a cheapy) --its my favorite hand scrapper. what would you say the useful range of strokes /min would be? and would you agree that stroke range from 0.25"(technically 0") to 0.75" should cover most applications?

[@hopefuldave]

It's hard to know which recip' saws are usable for conversion to a scraper, BUT - look at the area forward of the motor, if below the blade holder it "bellies" like an old-style electric pistol drill it has a wobble drive which is much harder / impossible to convert, if there's a flat round housing set high between blade and motor it uses the flat gear and scotch yoke as in Jake's video - e.g. Makita JR3xxx series, which has another clue - a bulge in line with the motor shaft on the underside of the flat gear pan.

[@hopefuldave]

Another thing - google the parts diagram to see which, and how the motor housing looks without the clumsy handle!

[@publicprofile1]

Good advise there. I showed the Porter Cable so people would not make the same mistake I made. I thought the shape of the Porter would make the perfect scraper compared to the Biax. I ended up with the Harbor Freight because the are everywhere and if I need to swap out the motor I can easily get another.