Pump Tube Removal & Installation

[@davecampbell5176]

I have done the same job with a Eze out ie change check valve

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Yup. Me, too. I generally try that first. And, using a screw extractor will work much of the time, but *not always*. Once you've done several dozen of these pump tubes like I show in the video, you come to realize the pump tube method is good to learn for those times when a screw extractor (aka "EZ-Out", a brand name) on a bit extension won't do the job. Plus, the screw extractor method can direct so much force to the pump tube end that the pump tube end will break free of the pump tube. Old solder gets pretty brittle over the years. Then you are looking at a pump tube extraction anyway. Plus, extraction is the best way to repair a leak at the pump tube where it meets the tank. That's a very common leak point. So, that's why I made the video on this subject. I'm all about sharing stove skills with folks. How about you? Why don't you go make video on how to use the screw extractor? It'll save me doing it and I can link to your video through my channel and my webpage. 👍😎 BD

[@tonyfrewin4822]

That’s a beautiful repair. I have recently repaired my mum’s old Primus 96 which I think she has had since the 50s. The NRV was so jammed in that I added a lever to the new NRV wrench I had bought with the service parts. It was so tight that the wrench handle started to bend! I decided to clamp the wrench vertically in my vice and lower the stove body over the tool. Eventually I got the NRV out and was surprised that there was no washer inside. I guess that’s why it was so tight. Thanks for the video.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Tony Frewin Thanks for your story. The method you stumbled on (NRV wrench in the vice) is the long time approach to removing stubborn NRVs and is the method I promote, show and demonstrate in several of my other stove repair videos. You may wish to check out those other videos to learn even more about your stove and stove repair generally. People in the UK were pretty poverty-stricken after WWII, so it’s likely the stove lacked a NRV washer due to penny-pinching and frugality in the postwar economy. BD

[@davidschmidthuber3916]

GREAT video- unfortunately I need to perform this on a stove w/ a rounded NRV. I'm no soldering slouch, this video gives me the info , tips, tricks to git-r- done. Thanks for this BD.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@David Schmidthuber Drop me a note if you'd like advice and help with that. Perhaps better advice than you may already have been getting. [e-mail] BD

[@julianp2868]

Hi, yes I was sold a bad stove with a couple of issues and this was one of them. I will try and follow your post, I have no tap die nor will I have a bolt like yours. However I will persevere with torch and pliers and maybe help from someone to pull as weld gives. I will watch this a few times lol.

[@marksmith9295]

Glad I subscribed a few days ago as learning lots. Just picked up a Meva 1 SC stove dated 366 and got it working after tank cleaning. NRV needs attention as pump stem now starts to slowly come out under pressure so will need a new pip for sure. Hoping a longer acetone soak will allow NRV removal as it does loosen but is hung up. The NRV is slotted so no need for removal tool. Might have to remove pump tube as I dont want to destroy the inside of pump tube or the NRV. I might try a dab of crazy glue on end of screwdriver to fuse to the NRV slot as i dont want to pump air into tank since the walls are pretty thin snd prone to stress cracks. Thanks for all your videos and hope a resolution to your burner caps comes to fruition. M Smith in Ontario, Canada

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Mark Smith If you have compressed air through a chuck with a rubber tip you can give a 1/2 second burst to the tank through the filler neck and the NRV will likely shoot out the pump tube. Maybe hold a rag over the end of the pump tube when you apply the air to catch it. Or, you can use a pair of ear forceps, about 6-8" long to grasp and pull the NRV out of the pump tube. Find those on eBay for cheap. Or, you can take a steel welding rod like for oxyacetylene welding and put a small hook in the end and fish it under the head of the NRV to pull it out. The hang-up with the NRV is almost certainly the barrel of the NRV hanging up on the lead NRV head washer which has tightened up around the NRV barrel. It's why I prefer LDPE or HDPE NRV washers over lead. Good luck! BD

[@dingnextstop]

Excellent video, I’ve ordered the recommended Solder and flux off eBay ready for the repair of my Primus No.5 stove, the filler neck has a previous repair which looks awful and still leaks air, so I shall remove clean and hopefully seal it properly using your method on the pump tube. Thank you for sharing

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Great to hear! You're welcome to drop a note to [e-mail] if you have problems or need some guidance. BD

[@dingnextstop]

@@BernieDawgCinema Thankyou that’s very kind…

[@tomwaite4594]

Thanks...restoring a seaswing with a #45 ...most helpful

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Sea Swings are neat. For the stove, you may also find this helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH2upKt_jqiHodE BD

[@tomwaite4594]

@@BernieDawgCinema Bernie, if I can get it working its going with me to Greenland next summer on a 2 month singlehanded sailing trip. Thanks Again for your videos and sharing your knowledge

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Tom Waite Whoa! That's awesome! If you're in the USA, I also do repairs and refurbishment of stoves for pretty cheap. Something to consider if you get stuck. Good luck and clear sailing! 👍 BD

[@tomwaite4594]

@@BernieDawgCinema Bernie, give me your # and I will call you about shipping it to you for and expert tuneup . I am located on the Chesapeke Bay in Maryland

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Tom Waite Yikes! I don't think it would be a good idea to publish my phone number here in KZbin comments. 😄 I have an email address through my website I keep for that purpose. [e-mail] Talk to you soon. BD

[@TeHsiungChen]

Your video has inspired me so much. I can't wait to try it. In addition, I would like to ask you to show how to remove the vertical flow after welding.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Thanks! I do not know what you mean by "vertical flow". This is soldering not welding, but I think both misunderstandings, yours and mine, are from translation issues. I am fluent with Google Translate if you would like to send me an email in your native language. BD

[@davidcooper6704]

Excellent job. I have a really nice Optimus 00 with a very mangled NRV thread so I will replace the tube with another from a battered similar stove. I picked up a couple of tips from your vid so thanks for sharing. Dave

[@stevenkham]

I got the exact problem cuz I don't have the tool to remove the NRB and its going round. Thanks for this video.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@stevenkham You can buy the right NRV tool from the many sellers on eBay or from the sellers I list at my webpage: www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ You can watch how to remove the NRV without screwing it up at my helpful video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH2upKt_jqiHodE BD

[@oxxnarrdflame8865]

Good video. Funny I see you have an old Fuller screwdriver, I have a set of those, got them back in high school (class of 69)

[@johanrubank]

Well did my first pumptube removal this weekend, easy as you show, it all went well! Thank you, great video.

[@schiaucugabriel6202]

Thanks for the video. I have the same problem with an NRV valve on a Primus 54 stove. I will try the same.

[@josecarballido1726]

a good job and informative. I'll be able to restore mine, thank you. and a greeting from Spain

[@kd5byb]

Wow, very nice! I may have to do this sometime soon and I really appreciate the tutorial! I've subscribed. :)

[@Poncho455ta]

Thank you for the very informative video. Excellent workmanship!

[@johnymingle]

Great informative video, thankyou

[@iainhannigan812]

Great video. I had to do a 210 yesterday. A leg dropped off whilst desoldering the pump tube :( I drilled out the old NRV and re-tapped the hole (M8x 0.75), instead of removing the tube base.

[@goingroguenow]

I am so grateful for this video. I have a rounded nrv on old no. 1. My prob is I don't have a spare cap to make the tool to hold the tube while extracting. Aany ideas? If you happen to kniw the thread, perhaps i can cut one. Thanks!

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@don evans I'm glad you liked the video. You definitely don't need a "spare" pump cap to make the tool. Just use the pump cap you have with your #1 stove to make the tool. The shaft of the bolt just needs to be a smaller diameter than the hole in the pump cap. Generally, a quarter inch bolt (or 6mm bolt) will do the trick for the shaft of the tool - just like the shaft of the pump. The pump cap is then removed from the tool when all the work is done and returned to service on the stove. Easy-peasy. 👍😎 BD

[@aborian1388]

Thank you. I learned a lot from you. Thank you again

[@atoiler1389]

Great video. Well done. India Ink to keep solder off areas where you don’t want it, nice! I just received my grandfather’s / Dad’s 1951 Primus No. 96. Excited to use but need to clean it first, then test it’s function. Questions: How best to clean I, as the brass is quite tarnished? AND, any specific suggestions on how to take the stove through a proper testing are there specific things I should just go ahead and replace / repair? Many thanks, keep the videos coming! Cheers from Alberta, Canada

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@A Toiler Clean with some mild dish detergent and warm water. I don't endorse polishing, especially if it's old and has a nice patina. You'll remove brass and thin the tank walls every time you polish. Making it shiny like new destroys the history and character of the stove. A bit like trying to get Grandma to look like Megan Fox by applying lipstick and a wig. It's just wrong. (Ewww.) Wouldn't you rather want to see the history your Dads use left on the stove? Check my other videos. Especially the kerosene stove playlist. I have pretty well covered all the steps to get the NRV, pump cup, seals, etc refreshed and taken care of. Good luck! BD

[@atoiler1389]

@@BernieDawgCinema BDawg, thank you for your prompt reply and salient advice. I’ll give the stove a gentle, nom-abrasive cleaning, then enjoy the patina! I will review your video as well. Shall I assume there are links to where I can obtain any seals etc. that I may need? Cheers to Megan Fox!

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@A Toiler You can find links to parts in the description box below many of my videos. Or, go to the parts page at my website (also frequently linked in the KZbin description box). www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/ Or, drop me an email at my free help email address: [e-mail] Easy-peasy. 👍😎 BD

[@stevethegreasemonkey]

Very informative. Can you please tell me what thread is the Nrv

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@steventhegrease monkey Sorry, I can''t (won't). It's a unique thread size designed by the stove manufacturers in the days before standardized threads circa 1890. Many of the thread sizes on these old stoves are like that - unique and proprietary so that you were forced to buy from the manufacturer. There are at least two standardized modern size threads that approximate the original proprietary NRV thread, but... if you can make one on a lathe, then you also have the skills and knowledge of how to measure the thread yourself. If not, then just buy properly sized replacement parts available from the few stove part suppliers still remaining in business. BD

[@stevethegreasemonkey]

@@BernieDawgCinema thanks I will give it a try

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@stevethegrease monkey You could look in the description box below the video for some info, too. 😉 BD

[@plumpye474]

Hey Sir What can I use besides the India ink on the parts I don’t want the silver solder to stick to ??

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Plumpy E Heya Plumpyman! Thanks for checking into my videos. I don’t have an alternative masking fluid for you since india ink works so well. Why switch to something else? I know it’s not a cost factor for you seeing the $$$ you have tied up in your gun and knife collection. ‘Sides, the stuff is cheap. Make sure to use rosin core lead/tin alloy solder for tank work and greater than 45% silver brazing rod or wire for burner work. NEVER use “silver solder” on stoves anywhere. Ever. Hope that helps. Remember I have a FREE helpline at [e-mail] . Easier to explain stuff and share photos of the problem work you are trying to tackle. 👍😎 BD

[@afsars88]

Hi. Thank you for this excellent video. I have learned a lot. I have a family owned Radius 21. I want to try to remove the NRV first but the NRV key is lost. Could you share the dimensions of the key (or the screw head at the bottom of the tube) for those of us who wish to try to build a rplacement key. Thanks again!

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Hi Afsar Saranli I've posted dimensions and photos of the most common NRV style as found in your Radius 21at my blog site. Here's the link: www.berniedawg.com/nrv-head-dimensions/ Hope that helps and good luck on your stove work. BD

[@feliperuestas5478]

Hola si alguien busca ese quemador silencioso con llave lateral,, tengo 3 unidades una nueva y dos con poco uso,,,,,es un video muy ilustrativo,,,,,interesante es como recuperar un tanque que presenta abolladuras leves.. FELIPE

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Gracias. Tal vez alguien lea tu mensaje y se contacte contigo. No soy muy bueno tirando abolladuras. BD

[@mariaalexandra9290]

Very nice! Why you use black india ink?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Prevents or discourages the solder to flow onto the inked parts. BD

[@johnymingle]

Excellent video....I have an old monitor 17b tourist stove and the vapourizer tube is off center to the brass threaded bit....this puts the burner head off centre....can this be repaired?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@John Watson Thank you! Yes. The Monitor 17B can be repaired to better center the burner head. 👍 BD

[@johnymingle]

@@BernieDawgCinema And could you please tell me , could i do it with an ordinary propane blowtorch? or would i need more heat....i've never tried this before.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@John Watson Maybe. It all depends. Teaching you to repair your stove is not reasonably possible in KZbin comments. If you take a look at the very first line in the description box below the video you’ll see an email address where you can contact me to get assistance, advice, and even instructions on how to do your repairs. Just send a few photos of your issue(s) about the stove to that address. And, don’t forget to introduce yourself in your email with a real (not anonymous) name/ID and maybe what country you are located in, please. Thanks! Speak to you soon. 👍😎 BD

[@scottdenholm1182]

love the video thanks again scott

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Thanks! I hope my little how-I-do-it video helps folks in their own stove repair work. 👍 BD

[@robb1chan9]

Hi , great work , could you tell us a little more about the black stuff you used to stop solder flowing onto other parts? you said indian ink? as in tattoo ink?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Thanks for the compliment. I don't know anything about tattoos, sorry. India ink. The bottle is at 6:08 in the video. It's from Higgins. It's the stuff you put in fountain pens or draw with as in "pen and ink" drawings. Artists use it. Calligraphers, too.I bet a search on Google or Amazon would turn up bunches. Or, at a stationary or art supply store or even aisle at Walmart. BD

[@maatiraouki9124]

excellent

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Maati Raouki Thanks! BD

[@raksakulvasuvat2577]

My own Optimus 111, new old stock, over 20 years long never fire, it showed up that the pump cap stick super tightly to it's body tube!!!, I cannot go on any proper way after an overnight soaked with WD40 fail to success.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Try a real penetrant (not WD40) and soak for a week. Use Kroil, Aerokroil, or other penetrant designed to loosen parts. BD

[@Rammoy1]

Sir. Kerosene fills in the pump tube of my primus No.100. Does it need similar restoration?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

Maybe. But, you should make sure your NRV is properly serviced with a new pip and a new NRV head washer first. I show how in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH2upKt_jqiHodE BD

[@Euronasa]

Great video. Thanks! Is that the original burner?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Torbjørn Gjertsen Wow! That took some work to find out. A client stove I worked on in 2015. Yes, that is the original burner with (I believe) the original inner/outer silent cap sets. The stove is a 1948 Primus #56. The burner is the #4155 burner that preceded the #4190 which is much more widespread and well-known. The #4155 extended the cleaning needle when the burner spindle valve was fully closed - the opposite of the standard method featured on the #4190. You can find this stove, after my repairs, posted by the owner here: classiccampstoves.com/threads/primus-56-1948.30707/ I also made the tool for the owners Primus SRV fuel cap that features in that social discussion forum thread. 👍😎 BD

[@Euronasa]

@@BernieDawgCinema Thanks for a great and detailed answer! Sidenote: Yesterday i saw a Primus, UNUSED in its original package for sale here in Norway price was $120 or bid. Now the ad is gone and unfortunately the pictures too. What do you think it could be worth? Looked like 60+ years old.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Torbjørn Gjertsen There is no easy or reliable way to price vintage stoves sold at auctions. There is supply and demand. And, there are just serendipitous things like bidding wars. Stoves bring what they bring and the results can vary for a variety of factors. To get a general idea of what a stove is worth, check the “completed items” at eBay for the item you are interested in. It’ll give you all the finished auctions for the last three or more months. That way, you can get an idea of what your chosen item will bring at auction. The two big sellers I see out of Norway are the military Optimus 111 stoves that have the Optimus-modified “C” or “cobra” burner that’s been turned 180 degrees (sometimes mistakenly called the “Arctic” stove); and the Fuhrmeister military stoves. Here’s a Fuhrmeister now, which will disappear after this Saturday, Feb 6th, 2021: www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-military-camp-stove-Fuhrmeister-No-8/284166889632 At $1100 now, it may well sell for over $2-3000 when the dust settles. Good luck! BD

[@MrBenmyong]

Thank you so much your instruction, I have same issue on my Radius 21 NRV. May I ask you what size of the Tap for re-thread? The new NRV I bought from ebay won't fit.

[@BernieDawgCinema]

If you mean where I am chasing the threads here... kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoXOeJh3a76Hftkm13s , that thread is best approximated with a M8x0.75. But! The inexpensive NRVs available now *DO fit*. They just come without any sort of tapering to the lead-in thread. We're all used to a taper on the first few threads so that the thread wants to naturally sit into its mate. Without that tapering, it's easy to cross-thread the NRV into the pump. To correct the lack of thread taper on your inexpensive NRVs, just take a little 320-grit carbide sandpaper and taper the beginning couple of threads to a slight angle. Then, those inexpensive NRVs will seat in nicely and work just like the originals and fit just fine. If having to correct the budget NRVs seems like too much trouble (and it is a bit of fussing to do), or it seems too challenging, it's best to stick with the expensive-priced original NRVS even though the prices are much higher. Happy stoving!

[@koningbolo4700]

Hello Bernie, did you make the control thingy on the burner head ??

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@Sander Tel No, I didn't make the spindle knob and shaft. That's a genuine Primus #4163 "spindle with wheel" that was bundled in some flavors of the #4155 silent burner that was found on the stove in this video (a Primus #56 stove). The #4163 spindle knob/shaft collar is threaded and threads onto the special threaded spindle nut (#4162) used on the burner. The #4155 burner was a predecessor of the more common type of Primus regulated silent burner seen later, the #4190 which everyone is far more familiar with. The #4155 seems to have been produced from sometime around 1940 (maybe a tad earlier, but a later development than the earlier Primus #4135 silent regulated burner), but has disappeared from the Primus parts roster by about 1952. You find them commonly on Primus #41 box stoves and also on #523 yacht ranges of that era. The #4155 burner has its cleaning needle and jet housing on the *left* side of the housing, the opposite of the #4190 which everyone is more familiar with. This means the cleaning needle extends out of the jet when the spindle is fully closed, instead of fully open. Setting the cleaning needle was(is) more complicated and Primus even made a special tool (#1538) to make it easier. Note, too, the unique #1591 safety valve fuel cap on this #56 stove. Cool, huh? 😎BD

[@koningbolo4700]

@@BernieDawgCinema Yes very cool, I like the way you go about fixing the thing...very nice to watch as well. Can a metering valve with control knob be retro fitted (beneath) a standard (non regulated) burner head ?

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@@koningbolo4700 No. Sorry. You'd be metering liquid filling the burner instead of fuel vapor leaving the burner. With a standard silent burner, the flame regulation is accomplished by controlling the tank pressure. That's what the vent screw on the tank is for. More pressure (strokes of the pump) equals bigger flame. Release some pressure with the vent screw, and the flame gets smaller. This is why these are only for kerosene. Release pressure from the tank using Coleman fuel and there'd be enough vapor in the tank escaping into the air near your burner flame that you would get a bang. (Ouch!) BD

[@koningbolo4700]

@@BernieDawgCinema I hope to acquire a similar device in the next few days: An Eastern German build BAT silent burner brass thingy. It looks very much like the Primus brand cookers. I just want it as part of my camper van setup as a backup/outdoor cooker. I use the Origo 2 burner marine ethanol stove to great satisfaction but since the van is a diesel fuelled one it seems appropriate to have at least 1 cooker which can run on diesel/kerosene/jet A /waste vegetable oil or the like. BTW: I hope the BAT device works as well as yours do and I do not have to remove the pump tube to get to the valve thingy... I am not even sure if I will polish the thing... I like the rough and ready look of the patina on there... (As you may know: A clean kitchen is a sign of a somewhat wasted life...)

[@BernieDawgCinema]

​@@koningbolo4700 Uh... okay. Thanks for sharing all that, but this is getting a bit much for KZbin comments. FYI, these burners *will not* work well with veggie oil or diesel fuel - no stove will. If you want to talk more about it contact: [e-mail]

[@muratalpay5994]

👍👍👍

[@allenroberts4406]

Need parts

[@BernieDawgCinema]

@allenroberts4406 www.berniedawg.com/stove-part-supplier-links/

[@javerjayal]

very good that is the black paint on the paw ????

[@javerjayal]

I do not know how to speak English use translator

[@BernieDawgCinema]

If you mean the black at this point in the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoXOeJh3a76Hftkm14s , that is black india ink like you use for fountain pens and writing. The ink is brushed on the tank to keep the solder from running places you do not want it to go. The ink acts a masking.

[@javerjayal]

thank you very much for the comment I just soldered an old heater in the neck

[@maatiraouki9124]

شيء جميل

[@BernieDawgCinema]

شكرا جزيلا BD