Get the most out of colour film

[@rdandelionart]

I love that you're teaching people that scanning and printing is an interpretation. Great work Hashem :)

[@pushingfilm]

It's the way I see it! I appreciate the support 😁

[@aredesuyo]

In my experience, prompt development is even more important than proper storage of unexposed film. I had a half-exposed roll of film that I accidentally left in a camera for 14 years. When I finished exposing the roll and developed it, although the quality of the whole roll was degraded, the shots on the recently exposed part of the roll turned out dramatically better than the 14-year-old exposures. Old film holds up better than old latent images.

[@lucashardy5612]

Interesting I have had the opposite result with old film before where the old photos came out a bit better than the rest

[@pushingfilm]

Oh wow! Yeah 14 years is a big gap, but that makes for a good test comparison!

[@b6983832]

@@pushingfilm I would suggest developing films that old first in black and white, recovering the pictures, then followed by bleaching, washing, re-exposure or chemical fogging by stannous cloride (E6 REV), after which the standard C-41 is done. Of course, provided it was a color negative film. Often you can get something in black and white, even if the film can't produce any more decent color pictures. It is possible to process most films this way (at least all films made by Kodak), but after color processing, if it fails, nothing can be done.

[@mr.negative_film_store]

Great video Hashem. Underexposure is the biggest issue I see when developing film for others, yet I don’t see too many people with a light meter. If you’ve exposed properly, then even if the lab does a bad job at scanning you can still try to salvage the colours in post. But if there’s never been enough light hitting the film to begin with, there’s no information there to work with and it’s game over. Not to mention that exposure will also determine how vibrant the colours are.

[@pushingfilm]

Spot on! Straight from the horses mouth 😁

[@anthonys_expired_film]

Your comment is so true, Mr. Negative, and so is Hashem’s in this video. Have a small light meter in your pocket and use it if you have a camera that you can adjust manually. For negative film, a well-exposed image’s negative has more information than meets the eye, and details can be had with a little editing to enhance highlights or brighten underexposed areas. Regarding editing, one tip I discovered with very expired color film is that when the color shift or quality is very degraded, converting the image to black and white will actually reveal image details that were masked in the bad colors of the color version. Excellent video overall with simple tips to get better images whether scanned or printed. Nice work, Hashem! 👍🏻

[@pushingfilm]

@@anthonys_expired_film Thanks man! Well said 🙂

[@jasontaycs7195]

What if I like pushing film? I find low ISO film hard to shoot once indoors or stopped down. I’m always shooting Kodak Vision3 250D at 500 or 1000 ISO.

[@mr.negative_film_store]

@@jasontaycs7195hi Jason, for me personally, I never push colour film. It ruins the colours and I don’t like the look. Also, the whole point of shooting film for me is working within the limitations of film. That’s where the magic happens. I use a tripod with a shutter release or use a flash. Working within those limitations makes me think differently and overcome obstacles, which in the end is so much more rewarding when i nail it and see the end result. I also use 500T inside, at night or in scenes with mixed lighting as the tungsten film gets me a lot closer to what I’m looking for. With daylight films in those situations it’s hard for me to remove the baked in yellow cast so I never shoot 250D unless outside in the sun. I know it can be daunting carrying a tripod, but that’s just the way film is. Digital photography introduced convenience, but before that, almost everyone would use a tripod or flash.

[@AlexOnStreets]

Great tips and yes theirs no such thing as unedited film scans! Optimize what you already have.

[@pushingfilm]

Agreed! Thanks Alex, looking forward to the next chat 🙂

[@Simon-zan]

This was a great video, thank you!

[@54LiNk54]

Agree 100% thanks for highlighting the importance in the scanning process! 🙏🏻

[@pushingfilm]

@@54LiNk54 for sure! I'm still amazed when I rescan old negatives from years ago and find new life in them 🙂

[@vmg6891]

Very good video. IMHO the scanning probably accounts for 2/3s of the result…Which can be very frustrating when you don’t have a local lab (I live in Peru) and have to send your film abroad in batches).

[@pushingfilm]

That does sound frustrating indeed! Glad you liked the video

[@somethingsafoot]

Dude, the shot at 6:31 makes me believe every single shot I've had developed was scanned wrong. Wtf.

[@ApertureWalk]

thanks for sharing these great tips. I have been trying to meter more often

[@pushingfilm]

I'm glad it helped!

[@vanandpillai9424]

Thank you once again for an awesome guide. ❤️ ! Definitely will write down these tips.

[@pushingfilm]

You're welcome! Glad it helped.

[@poniatowski3547]

This is a fantastic video Hashem. The tips are spot on.

[@pushingfilm]

Thank you!

[@marianoolivares6439]

Excelent video! So many points of failure that can happen in the film process, but still there´s nothing like watching the results

[@pushingfilm]

For sure!

[@itsahoax]

great content as usual, thanks

[@pushingfilm]

Thank you!

[@losimperdibles]

Another great video! Thanks for keeping up :D

[@pushingfilm]

Thank you!

[@ReimannPembroke]

Great tips Hashem! I think many people will find this video helpful!

[@pushingfilm]

Glad you think so! Thanks man

[@luciengraetz]

But that would mean I have to first organise a box filled with 12 years of negatives 😅 Great video mate! I’m actually taking a few frames to get drum scanned soon specifically to learn more about what I can do with my negs. This was very inspiring! ❤

[@pushingfilm]

Haha that sounds painful man. I have a box that I've been neglecting for almost 10 years. At least I stopped adding to it after a certain point 😅 Drum scans will be awesome, where you getting them done?

[@CDBAILEY]

I ended up watching one of your old videos before I even knew of your channel and then jumped straight to this one. I was like "shit, this guy's hair grows fast" then I saw the upload dates. Anyway, thanks for the advice 🙂

[@nino8344]

Another great video Hashem

[@pushingfilm]

Much appreciated!

[@cwantuch]

Oh cool..you found Captured by Sam…I watch her too. She has a great channel. Thanks for these great tips.

[@pushingfilm]

For sure! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@just_eirik]

Lots of great tips and insight. Also, Captured By Sam is great! :D

[@rcmaster207]

1:16 never expected to find a random person in a photography video wearing a Teenage Wrist shirt haha

[@JohnDVoss-b2e]

Very informative. Thank you.!!!

[@pushingfilm]

Glad you thought so! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@jamie.dop_]

Always solid info! Appreciated

[@pushingfilm]

Glad you thought so! Thanks for watching 🙂

[@paquito_sebastiano8600]

Thank you for your vidéo it's very interesting ! Actually i'm starting to shoot on film and your advices are vey useful ! 🔥 And also I was wondering where can i find a lightmeter like this 0:51 ? It looks so cool !

[@pushingfilm]

Glad you liked it! That light meter was the Keks KM02, I made a video about it on the channel earlier this year.

[@b6983832]

Within the young folks, who have begun their photography when digital was already the norm, there is one myth, which is not true. It is that there was such a thing as unedited digital file - or darkroom print for that matter. In reality, it is always an interpretation - of a person printing, a software or both. It is true that different film stocks have differences how they render colors, but what people don't realize, is that "the Porta look" for teenagers, and the yellow cast the public wants from Kodak Gold, is mostly done by settings of the photofinisher. Of course, you see some differences, if you take the same picture in different stocks, print it optically, and balance the neutral gray, but nowadays, the programs used for digital post production, tend to alter the pictures in order to "make them better than original". Much is also done because of the expectations of people. To put it frankly, the only unedited picture is a slide developed at box speed and used for projection, or watched on a light table.

[@pushingfilm]

Agreed! That's true what you say about slide being the closest thing.

[@StevenMacgarret1998]

how did you shoot streetlife without lightmetering? By mastering Sunny 16 :)))

[@vermontmike9800]

0:53 what is that light meter?

[@nineteenseventy4588]

Doesn‘t overexposure add noise if you intend to scan negatives? When you turn them into positives that would mean to rise the shadows from the negative so this should rise up noise… or am I wrong 🤔?

[@pushingfilm]

Not quite! When you shine light through an overexposed (dense) negative, it's still well within the range of digital capture (scanning). So those brightly exposed parts never get too "dark" on the negative. It has a limit, which is always within reach once you shine light through it. Underexposure is more likely to create noise or problems.

[@jamescullen3252]

Hello, just wanted to ask if you know the release date for the Ilford retro packaging. I have contacted a photo shop here in Brisbane to enquire if they will be holding the Ilford stock but at this stage it sems unlikely they will. Do you know any labs your way that might be carrying this stock? Regards James

[@pushingfilm]

Hey, I think it's making its way into Australian stores soon. I saw Irohas Photo post some stock on their instagram page.

[@THROUGHTHEGLASSS]

Does erring on the side of over exposure make less sense with b&w negative film than it does with color negative film?

[@pushingfilm]

Not necessarily! In the old school books I've read, they would advise it even more than colour neg. It's also worth watching some of Kyle McDougalls exposure test videos on films like HP5 to give you an idea.

[@THROUGHTHEGLASSS]

@@pushingfilm I'll check them out. Thanks!

[@matteoposi9583]

blank roll :(

[@timchikun]

i stopped shooting film bc the prices are insane

[@VariTimo]

The prices were insanely low for almost twenty years. They’re now where they’ve always been. Except that now it’s not the only capture medium out there anymore.

[@pushingfilm]

@@timchikun sorry to hear! It has increased a lot over the recent years.

[@uzairahmad9362]

It’s sad to see this turning into a typical KZbin channel. The same ideas regurgitated over and over just to create filler content. How many times do people need to discuss the exact same talking points about exposing negative film? It’s your channel, so do what you like, but as a viewer I don’t find my time being respected, so I will look elsewhere.

[@slipknotserge]

Produce the content YOU want to see, if it bothers you that much.

[@klartext2225]

The best tip would be: Quit using that old fashioned crap called "film", get it out of your mind and don't put it in the fridge. Or go on, be honest and from now TYPE everything you write with an really old typewriter! Ahhh, that nostalgia! In the end, analog is just a pathetic excuse for shooting mediocre pictures. "But it is on FILM!" ;-)