Putting Beal Escaper to the Test

Did some testing with my Beal Escaper on my recent climbing trip to Red Rocks. My goal was to specifically on full rope length rappels that don't have a direct pull on the device. I feel that this device is very underrated mainly due to fear that the device won't function as intended, but I've never heard of any cases of the device failing. In certain situations, the escaper could replace a tag line saving you some weight. While I do feel that the escaper has its pitfalls I also feel that these pitfalls can be avoided and are mainly situational. If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comments section or shoot me an email at [e-mail].

[@emersonk4356]

I was literally thinking he better tie that rope or he's gonna lose it and he tied it.

[@benallan2607]

It looks like you were only clipped in to one bolt at both anchor stations, not the most redundant practice especially since its hard to tell how bomber bolts are. The Beal Escaper definitely seems like a sweet device, and I thought this was a really good review for it as you tested it in both an ideal and not-ideal situation, and it seemed solid in both. Great stuff!

[@JustinWallace]

Glad you found the review helpful! I guess you caught me with the first anchor, even though I was at a pretty good ledge it wouldn't have hurt to back up the bolt, but with the second anchor if you look closely I actually did back up the bolt to the other bolt with one of my alpine draws 4:53

[@benallan2607]

@@JustinWallace Oh sweet! Fair game, the ledge/not being backed up is definitely a matter of personal preference, I understand where you're coming from with that decision.

[@ripperkon]

My experience is, that is just waits until you are starting to believe, you have to climb up again to get the rope back :D

[@JustinWallace]

That's honestly how it feels haha!

[@bartsimpson208]

My buddy and I rapped The Diamond Wall (Longs Peak, CO) on Escaper. It is, no doubt, a solid product. Took about 15-18 tugs each time on the fully extended rope. Bouncing or swinging on it doesn't matter. The key is to maintain more than 20Lb of pull. Advantages - we carried only a single 9.4mm (70m). Disadvantages - yes, tugging gets physical and works best on vertical walls. Once the angle decreases, you going to find yourself tugging more and more. We decided to rap the snow patches at the bottom as well, but now the rope was under 45 degree and it took about 30-35 tugs to get it (made me doubt if I untied the knot :-) ) So, pick your poison: carry more rope or be ready to do some tugging. I, personally, always have it with me on trad climbs.

[@Vass22]

Tugging seems easier than carrying another 70m

[@Govanification]

I see it as more of an emergency tool to throw in your backpack, and maybe your main plan if you only have 1-3 raps off a route. If it's a long multipitch with 4+ double-rope raps, I wouldn't use the escaper as Plan A, I'd probably bring a tagline or double ropes.

[@theinvestingputz5895]

Still seems sketchy, but dang - you can rap almost 300 feet with that rig

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Trick: put a knot at good height to help with effective tug and not tire yourself (overhand on a bight)!! What do you think?

[@JustinWallace]

That's ingenious I'll definitely try that next time!

[@izil1fe]

I see this being very useful for solo climbers that want to be ultra light and know they will have just few longer rappels on their climb.. Saves a lot of weight compared to carying two half-ropes..

[@ricardobecerril1783]

You’re on point brother

[@Govanification]

Could you use an ascender or prusik or something to make tugging easier? Prusik sounds better since you'll have to let it fly up in the air each tug.

[@JustinWallace]

You definitely could but a friend of mine recommended just tying a knot in the rope to pull on. A simpler solution that I myself with use next time!

[@driver3899]

@@JustinWallace I wonder if using a foot prusik would work, legs being a bigger muscle so less tiring.. but you might not be able to get as much travel in the actual pull idk

[@viniciusmaltauro]

Living the Tug Life!

[@BenFrankAdventures]

Thanks for the video, I have been thinking about getting an escaper. Subscribed to your channel.

[@rgr195]

My son and used it for a full 60m rap. same experience.... a full 20 pulls to get it to drop.

[@Colhutch1786]

Brad quote might not be the best to pull out when rapping ...

[@JustinWallace]

It's never a bad time to pull a Brad quote!

[@theirishadventurer4874]

To soon..... always to soon.

[@Rainpub]

agreed, it looks scary :0

[@foaly8]

That Beal Excaper is some sketchy shit..

[@paulhowden720]

You need more practice coiling the rope whilst it's in mid flight.🤪

[@williambyrnes4198]

Just use 2 two ropes and be done with it. I would never get this. If you don't have 2 ropes, then just make twice the number of rappels.

[@robertpepper5256]

I will not be buying or using that piece of equipment ever

[@davefowler1377]

You need to learn to tie better Fig 8 knots!

[@JustinWallace]

What's wrong with my fig 8 knot!?

[@davefowler1377]

​@@JustinWallace On your first abseil the knot has slack within it and the tail looks extremely small. The beal escaper is an emergecy system not to be used to avoid doing more abseils than required. I personally wouldn't be using it in Red Rocks with the amount of flakes and cracks on the walls, when the full 70m of rope falls past you, you are lucky the escaper or rope does not get lodged into any cracks or flakes, be careful when you use it and how you use it. I've only been out there once but I found the abseiling more risky than most of the climbs, food for thought. Once you've been stranded in the middle of a remote big wall retreat with a jammed rope you will view abseiling a little different I suspect, we all learn from experience but don't become another stat or red splat.