Qidi X-Max 3 - one step closer to industrial 3D printing

Qidi X-Max 3 is a Klipper based fast coreXY 3D printer with huge built volume. But the biggest advantage of this printer are the max temperatures: 350°C on nozzle, 120°C on bed and 65°C actively heated chamber.
Qidi X-Max 3 product page: shrsl.com/4ba0z
or Qidi X-Plus 3 (similar performace but smaller volume): shrsl.com/4ba11
(these are affiliate links)
Contents:
0:00 Introduction to X-Max 3
1:24 Why high temperatures?
3:20 Unboxing
5:07 Setup
8:30 Badge (stock gcode)
11:15 Benchy
12:24 Firmware update
13:03 Network, QIDISlicer
13:22 D6 30x30mm cube
15:08 Spiral (vase) mode
15:58 Filament change
17:13 Owl (2h printing)
18:21 Bed leveling test
19:17 ABS 3D printing (Owl)
22:53 PolyCarbonate (PCBlend)
24:38 Like
25:26 Don't like
28:33 Plans
#3dprinting #qidi #3dprinter #xmax3 #qidi3d

[@ChrumkavySuchar]

Why did they send you an old version for review? I purchased this printer 2 weeks ago and received a new version ( new probe for leveling + new magnet on the bed ( sticker - the old magnets were too strong and messing with BL touch ) + new tool head cover with 2x more fans ( to solve overheating issues ).

[@MyTechFun]

This is new information to me, I didn't know that this is old version. I will ask them, they reply usually very quickly on workdays. As I mentioned, I hate BL Touch. The magnets don't mess with BL Touch so far. Where can I read more about the tool head cover and overheating problem?

[@ChrumkavySuchar]

@@MyTechFun I don't think they officially posted it anywhere. If you contact them, they are sending upgrade kits to everyone for free - all the things I mentioned. You can see how the cover looks like , if you go to they page, and search for accessories for X-MAX 3, there is this "X-Max3 Printhead Cover (Includes small fan)" . It is because a lot of users had issues with overheating of the back mainboard for tool head, so they added small fan there. Only thing that I know that is unsolved, is that when you receive this upgrade kit, the plastic stop for the Plate is too low, as you glue on the magnetic sheet. On my version where it was already installed, the plastic stops for the plate are redesigned and are working fine.

[@JonathanSterlingUSA]

New probe for leveling? Does that stop the head crash when the hotbed cover is removed??? They have a warning against using PLA filament with the top cover installed (because you might get a bad print), but there is no warning against using the manual controls, or just starting a print, without the hotbed cover installed (BECAUSE IT CRASHES AND GRINDS UNTIL IT IS TURNED OFF). Apparently that problem affects all of their current "3" printers. Now I'm hesitating to do a custom hotbed cover (to help improve adhesion) that isn't shiny. There are posts on Reddit about that, too.

[@ChrumkavySuchar]

@@JonathanSterlingUSAactually with old leveling probe therewas notthis issue, as probe was BL touch, but yes now with the magnetic probe, you are limited to what type of sheet you use, and it must be allways installed, otherwise probe will not see the "metal"

[@JonathanSterlingUSA]

@@ChrumkavySuchar BL touch? I don't know what that abbreviation means.

[@davidtazartes2788]

As regards the youtube algorithm - you are basically my favorite 3d printing youtuber, ever since the screw orientation video, and I wish you got more love. You have a way of finding the common sense flaws in a way others don't, and your material tests are beautiful in their visual presentation and thought process.

[@Lobesanft]

I got my X max 3 one week ago and its equipped with an inductive sensor instead of the bl touch. Works flawless, so far.

[@kimtyson9101]

Just got mine set up - had it for about 4 months sitting in the living room while I built a bench for it. I also have the inductive sensor - from 4 months ago - and it works fine (unless you forget to put the removeable bed back in before homing). I have only had to do the z-offset thing twice - once at the unpacking and right after I forgot to put the bed back in between prints - so if you are worried about the inconvenience of using the supplied "special paper" which is a black plastic card, you don't have to do it very often. The automatic bed leveling which is a different thing is done automatically, if you want, before each print. It is "skip-able". BTW - when I forgot the metal removeable plate, It actually crashed the aluminum bed into the extruder nozzle - with no damage I might add. So if you have the inductive sensor remember it might not be able to detect the aluminum bed, only the steel removeable bed. Not 100% sure since I panicked and started hitting buttons on the screen to stop it - to no avail - before reaching around and flipping the power switch. I like the printer so far since you can also adjust temperatures and speeds in real time simply by pressing on the screen and typing new ones in. As with everyone else, I dislike the spool holder on the back and will take your advice and put one on the side instead. The machine is heavy to move for that purpose and you can't see how much filament you have left. There are no instructions for installing the QIDISlicer on LINUX. I have UBUNTU and after much hand wringing found there are only 2 or 3 or 4 steps steps depending on how you count them. They supply the slicer in what is called an AppImage file. Hope this helps someone. The QIDIslicer, an offshoot of PRUSAslicer is very fast on LINUX even on an old i7 laptop - you could dedicate an otherwise unfit machine for this purpose. Steps to install QIDISLICER if you don't already have "fuse" available on your machine 0) install fuse -> sudo apt install fuse sudo apt install fuse-emulator-gtk

[@cj5376]

I'd like to know the planning process for these printers because, as you showed, the GUI was cluttered with information you don't need and tiny information you do need. To add right now, people want a few physical changes. 1. A manual power button on the front side that could be implemented flush on the front, 2. Ethernet ports as a lot of printers will only work on 2.4ghz, not 5ghz wireless, 3. Better sealed chambers ( maybe silicon gaskets on the glass to seal better . Easy fixes that would add maybe another $20 in cost

[@DaveEtchells]

Comments supposedly help the algorithm, so I’m leaving this one :-) Apart from the few rough edges you pointed out, this looks like a great option for someone who needs larger print sizes than the Bambu machines can handle (at least until they come out with their own XL version). The combo of high speed, quite large print volume and extra-high temperatures all with quite good print quality should be very appealing. I think BambuLab will still be tough to beat, as I’d likely consider how often I’d need prints larger than it could handle, 350c printing and an actively heated chamber against the option for multicolor and Bambu’s flawless operation. For my own use I’d definitely go for the X1C first, but if I had unlimited funds, I’d want one of these standing next to it :-) Bottom line, I think Qidi is going to sell a fair number of these, but it feels like a bit of a niche product to me 🤷‍♂️

[@monkeywrench1951]

Thank you for the review. I have a X1C. I looked into this printer because of the heated chamber and much larger build volume. What turned me off was the z-offset not being automated and the lack of something like the AMS.

[@avejst]

Great video as always Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us 🙂

[@pmbrothny]

They also have the camera now for the printer that gets mounted and you can see what is going on inside the printer. You also have the older componenst in your machine as others stated. They are shippping with newer components.

[@dfx62]

I was looking forward to your take on this monster. Regarding noise levels, I can confirm that it's much quieter than the Creality K1 Max straight out of the box (just to mention one advantage). And there's always scope to replace fans to quieter Noctua etc models. Also, extremely important to mention that if you contact QIDI they provide upgraded parts for free. For example hotend cover with TWO additional fans or an upgraded USB-C cable (which should eliminate some communication issues with the motherboard). You just have to include a photo of your hotend cover to show that it's the old type.

[@nickreif7010]

sending some likes your way, the detailed resin tests were invaluable to my resin designs, i just purchased a qidi max 3 as my first fdm printer. even with the early quality issues it seems like a very capable machine after the updates

[@griffgear3d]

Thanks for the review. I have a XMax3 and 2 X Plus 3s. The Xplus 3s are rock solid. The XMax 3 I haven't got past the filament loding as it clogs all the time. I am looking forward to the upgraded replacement toolhead. Keep up the great work.

[@MyTechFun]

I saw that older versions had a lot of problems, but this new one with new firmware works OK so far.

[@NickBR57]

Yesterday you said you were testing the Qidi and I alnost replied to ask when we would see a review - and next day here we are! At the start of this vid I thought the thing that may put me off would be having to use paper and a BL Touch for leveling. I've been spoiled by having direct piezo z-setting like the BL. I find paper has so many variations: how thick a paper, just how much resistance should you feel?, is it different for textured beds? - and so on. Your results on some of the prints and the tiny space to get your hands in to move the paper tend to reinforce my hesitation. Like the size and the heated chamber though. Food for thought. Thank you as always. (I don't understand why you wouldn't get the traffic - on forums when people ask about strength of materials, temperature and a host of other things, my stock reply is that Stefan and Igor are the people to go to )

[@MyTechFun]

At least we got the paper we have to use for Z-offset. About the traffic, now it is improving on last 5 videos, but before that most of the videos got 1000-2000 views (hard to believe that from 44k subs only 2-3% was curious about the video). So far I am doing videos only for my curiosity, so I don't mind too much about low traffic..

[@AndyRC]

Thanks so much for the review. I like what qidi is doing as of late. I just wish they had gone a bit more advanced when it comes to the hardware. They should have auto z and have an easier way to update and run stock klipper. I looked at the qidi printers. However, most were out of my price range due to me buying 3 printers in the last 6 months. Lol. I did pick up a K1 thought this week on a flash sale, and i am very impressed so far, and now that it can be unlocked, that is great news . I would have preferred a bigger build volume, but the k1 max was twice the price. I do have an sv06 plus for those times where it is needed, and it has been converted to klipper, so speed is no longer an issue. I can't wait for more videos on your new qidi XMAX 3. Cheers from canada

[@MyTechFun]

Thank you!

[@EsotericArctos]

Great video and review. I very much doubt Qidi would use a CR Touch, which is just Creality specific and just a BL Touch clone. If it is a genuine BL Touch, and not the clone 3D Touch, then it should be fine with the heated chamber up to the 65 degrees. Qidi are very good at taking feedback and actually actioning it, so if they see this video, they will definitely work with it

[@MrReivn]

This is on Black Friday-sale at the moment for 899€. Ordered one for myself on friday :)

[@MyTechFun]

Great deal

[@Matrixas]

I believe the filament is shinier at the bottom of the benchy cause of slower speed. I've noticed that filaments get a more matte look if printed faster. I could be wrong though.

[@MyTechFun]

Hm, yes, it must be related to speed (or printing after retraction)

[@danielcalvo9063]

Cool video Igor! I look forward to your material testing videos with this printer! Its quite fun to learn about materials and their properties and I find your testing very thorough. You can probably get a 100mm diameter exhaust tube (the flexible ones used in air conditioners and some driers) and quickly design some adaptor and tape it to the printer and route most of the fumes to the outside. I found the ones made of aluminium are the best -- the plastic ones are permeable to gases and don't work as well. I also leave a fan on the window exhausting air while I print. I would print outside if I could, but I have no balcony. Anyways you probably already know all of this, take care with some of the more exotic materials and I look forward to you next videos!

[@MyTechFun]

Probably I will use this pipe if I don't find other solution in next 1-2 weeks: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eILMgn2kl7NsoLs

[@danielcalvo9063]

@@MyTechFun looking forward to it! 😀

[@lpprod1281]

I can't wait to see the tests with the technical filaments. With my Xplus3 I print PA12 CF15 very easily, just like ABS or PC/PBT. On the other hand, I have ABS/PC from Protopasta brand which always comes off the build plate. I bought a smooth PEI tray to try... Your videos are always very interesting, there aren't many channels like yours. PLA 3D printing is now manageable for everyone, plastics with high thermal or mechanical properties must be discovered. Especially today with consumer 3D printers as offered by QidiTech

[@MyTechFun]

About PC-ABS, you tried using a glue stick or hair spray (or 3Dlac or similar) ?

[@lpprod1281]

yes, I tried hairspray and Dimafix. Nothing works but I think it's an old filament without additive for 3D printing. It warped a lot even with a very slow first layer speed. The PC/PBT from Rosa3D stick hard on the build plate.

[@jonm7547]

I really do not understand all these negative comments regarding the back spool. I have mine near the wall and just turned it 90deg, so now I have easy access to both the front and the back. This is such a minor issue. I have the Bambu Lab CX1C too, and it is smaller and way more expensive. While excellent, BambuLab also fails some prints. I had some issues with the QIDI, but the customer Support is excellent, and I learn how to correct - in my case it is all about settings.

[@MyTechFun]

So.. you have only 1 3Dprinter? Currently in my setup I have 3 printers next to each other on the same desk. The back is connected to hole in the wall (exhaust fumes). So, yes, it is a problem for most of the users. I solved it by using a filament dryer as a spool holder next to the printer.

[@MrMistery101]

I've had this printer for about two weeks now. Mine uses a magnet sheet for the magnetic bed instead of the recessed magnets. It also uses an inductive probe. Biggest issue for me has been the specialty nozzle size and the wireless connectivity. Volcano nozzles fit, but on the inductive probe machine the probe has to be adjusted down and I believe the fans are cooling down the nozzle given the additional volcano length. Regarding the wireless connectivity, while it is in a basement it is the only device on that table has constant issues maintaining a connection.

[@MyTechFun]

Inductive probe? I saw there is a different firmware for that version, is that a newer version of X-Max3?

[@soggynode]

Maybe Qidi added the inductive probe they use on the X-Plus 3 and the X-Smart to the X-Max. That would be nice. I don't like mechanical probes like the BLTouch so the X-Max is a no-go for that reason alone.

[@MrMistery101]

@@MyTechFun It probably is, I only got this unit about two weeks before and it had a week long lead time from purchase. I would also imagine the volume of sales is larger in the US, therefore newer stock gets rotated in. imgur album link: a/qOipMRp I prefer the inductive probe over the bl touch, previous experiments with a 50-70C chamber temp printer have cause bl touches to become extremely unreliable and failing to deploy. Also be careful about using the provided hardened hotend with carbon fiber materials. Depending on the length of the carbon fiber strands, the 0.4mm nozzle qidi provides just causes clogs/underextrusion. I had this problem with 3dxtech's carbon-x gen 3.

[@MrMistery101]

the machine is currently not in service as I'm waiting on 0.6mm hardened nozzles. Let me know if there's anything you'd like to have a look at.

[@dorianvincent2101]

@@MrMistery1010,6 hardened nozzle not from qidi? A volcano type?

[@3dPrintingMatt]

Good luck, I have gotten to know their customer service people on a first name basis, I am still deciding if I'm going to keep it, or ship it back to them. I have had them ship me well over 300 dollars worth of parts, new sensors, new beds, new hotends, the upgraded front and back covers with the extra fans, I have constant error messages almost daily, I love the machine, when it works, but when it doesn't I want to throw it from the US all the way to China. BUT so far their support has been really helpful, its just frustrating when a printer that is now only 2 months old has to constantly put new and improved parts in it. I haven't even tried to print any expensive filaments yet, because of the constant errors part way through my prints. I am hoping that it is now fixed, I did a 22 hour print without any errors, so I am going to try ABS or ASA here in the next few days, and see what happens, so far I have just printed PLA and TPU. So nothing to hot yet.

[@kspec2001]

another great video. interested to see other materials. so you were saying that since the bed level is using the same parameters as when the first layer is getting printed that you dont need to do it with the heated chamber at its required setting?

[@colinmsmall]

What temperature do you print qidi tough petg at on the qidi x max 3? The range is 240-280.. the default profile is 250 in both qidi slicer and orca slicer. I tried a long print at the default profile and suffered some under extrusion. I printed a temp tower from orca but could barely tell a difference between the 240-280 range.. 250 seemed fine. But on this long print it is definitely showing some u see extrusion. I tried printing qidi tough petg on a Bambu X1C and I ended up printing at the max of 280 I think. What do you find works on the qidi x max 3?

[@smalik..]

your videos are interesting and trustworthy! please tell me whether it is possible to place a spool of filament inside the housing or will the back wall of the printer have to be modified to do this?

[@alenbainrauch3853]

Odlican video, kao i svi dosad.👌

[@MyTechFun]

Hvala :-)

[@berlinberlin4246]

You mentioned that for print analysis the black filament color is not the best. Can you please say waht color is the best to see all print errors?

[@LWJCarroll]

Is the wifi’s connection to your PC via the internet router? Thanks. Laurie NZ 😊

[@3ddruk638]

Could you share yours printer profile in Prusa Slicer ? Have you got any special gcode presets ?

[@Davor_3D_ZrAM]

Great video again, as always. I wonder if heated chamber can help with warping when printing big square parts in ABS and PC?

[@olafmarzocchi6194]

It does. 65C is about the temperature at which ABS prints as easy as PETG or PLA. PLA has a glass transition temperature of about 45-50C, ABS depending on the brand 85-100C. Printing at 20C ambient temp PLA is equivalent to print ABS at 60-75C chamber temp. Which means, easy.

[@tbip2001]

How do you clean the end of the nozzle between prints? Typically when i try, i just get more oozing which affects the z offset again (not this printer)

[@MyTechFun]

The nozzle must be clean when setting the z-offset (between prints, it is not important for this printer, since it uses the BL Touch). It is important with printers which uses the nozzle for touching (with load cell), like Prusa MK4, K1, Bambulab. The cleaning in that case, heat up to 140-150°C, so the material is soft, but there will be no oozing. I clean with metallic tweezers.

[@tbip2001]

@@MyTechFun thank you!

[@kovacsszabolcs378]

Isten hozott a Qidi Klubban! Kíváncsi voltam mikor váltasz erre a gyártóra, kíváncsi leszek mit tapasztalsz! Nekem bejött, X-plus-ról váltottam az X-max3-ra...

[@vim55k]

What is the advantage of max - only the size?

[@MyTechFun]

Yes, there is a nice comparison table on the product page (link in description)

[@contrezerva9024]

Hello! I've subscribed with wissle & bells 😂 with the account I usually use on my phone. On the other account when I've started a month ago to get more info about FDM, you've been the suggestion number 20. I've guess you put too few tags. Your material is very informative and top quality and useful even for a noob like me😂. An advice, please: Bambulab X1 Carbon or this Qidi? Respect!😊

[@marguskevinsunter]

Hello! I'm your old time fan, patreon supporter , have watched basically all your videos and promoted you everywhere when someone asks about filaments 😋 Some constructive feedback about printer reviews :) It would be cool if you can somehow compare or give your subjective feedback on printed part details. Like how are VFAs, does it seem to have Z binding issues or inconsistant extrusion. Prusa MK4 should have close to 0 VFAs, compared to almost any other printer out there, since it has 0.9 steppers etc More in-depth would be going for support. Poking them with questions and seeing how responsive they are and how much useful information they give. Especially cool would be, if can compare communities somehow. Like Qidi community is quite small in Facebook / Reddit / Discord, compared to Creality or Voron ones. That would be rather hard to assess within a week tho Another thing that's important for printer owners is maintainability. How much there is documentation about things and are parts universal or not. For example Qidi X3 series has it's own nozzles. No other printer has same type of nozzles. So you are stuck with Qidi one or buying / printing some mods or cutting Volcano nozzles to Qidi length (Qidi ones are 2mm shorter than Volcano) Same with Creality K1. Creality nozzles are longer than Volcanos, again stuck wtih K1 own ones (or do mods) I think none of the reviewers compare such details, but would be cool if you can 😋 Nice to see you all recovered from virus :) Can't wait till new videos! Especially interested in all kinds of testing videos!

[@MyTechFun]

Thank you for both, patreon support and video promoting :-) Good idea about VFA, but it would be good to have some measurable value here. Then it would be constant part of the test. Maybe a separate video just comparing VFA with macro videos between 5-6 popular printers. I was thinking to have a separate video testing supports (incognito). The problem with review, that I have different contact, not like other customers. About maintainability, the best would be another review after 6 months for example. But good point, the documentation or similar. For example, to see if company has good instructions how to replace the nozzle or other parts (here Bambu and Prusa are very good). Sovol for example is very bad, they just publish new printers and forget about old ones. More videos soon, I have a lot of filaments for testing, current problem is the cold. I am trying to do my outdoor tests on temperatures between 15-22°C. But winter is here :-( Thx again for all your support.

[@josipsarkanj9065]

I am planning to buy Qidi or K1 max.Which would you recommend?Thanks

[@MyTechFun]

Depend of your needs. I can see a lot of filament types, which can be printed with this Qidi and cannot be printed with K1 max. But if you don't need those filaments, go with k1.

[@dingdingdingdiiiiing]

For about the same price, you can get Bambu lab P1S with AMS, a little smaller, 300°C max, but you get 4 color print. I'm pretty sure that's a better choice if you don't need high temperature. Anyone agree?

[@MyTechFun]

The answer is simple: if you don't need more than 256mm cubic and 300C is enough, no need for active heated chamber, go with P1S and AMS. But for technical filaments X-MAX3 is better. Don't forget with P1S you need to replace the extruder too, not only the nozzle (hardened). Here hardened hotend is included (easier to replace than only the nozzle)

[@jonm7547]

P1S is way smaller, it is not a fair comparison.

[@vim55k]

To choose plus or max? The only difference is 4.5cm...

[@MrReivn]

You can compare the cross diameter, which is way bigger than the measurements from straight edge. And there is the difference in cost, Max is way more expensive :D If cost is not an issue, I would go for the Max, extra size on the bed will always come in handy in some prints.

[@juliusvalentinas]

@@MrReivn larger bet eats more electricity, that results in way higher running cost.

[@Bromo_Sexual]

How do I become a smart engineer like you? 😮

[@MyTechFun]

I think I am just an average mechanical engineer, so I suggest you to finish this kind of university and that's it :-)

[@marcus3d]

4:12 This is so true! Probably less than 1% of users have printers in the middle of the room, so why are manufacturers so unbelievably moronic that they put switches and filaments and connectors and whatnot behind the printer?! Unbelievably dumb!

[@MyTechFun]

That is probably because everybody copies Bambulab, so it is their fault that now everybody places the spool on the back side :-)

[@juliusvalentinas]

Seem way worse then bambullab p1s