Queen Size Brood Frames! (Bee Barn Build - Part Four)

[@GranitePropServices]

Stupid question. Why don't you put a full foundation from top to bottom instead of having the gap in the middle?

[@vinofarm]

OK. This one will get pinned! THE GAP IS THERE FOR SEVERAL REASONS. 1. I didn't want an impenetrable wall of plastic that the bees could not pass through. 2. The gap allows the use of EXISTING foundation from already drawn out frames you have on hand. 3. The gap allows the bees to pass through the center of the comb 4. The gap is a "Bee's Choice" area. They build drone comb, queen cells and/or worker comb there. 5. The gap allows for easy hot swapping of old comb for new comb 30:22 The gap is a feature, not a bug!

[@GranitePropServices]

@@vinofarm gotcha, I'm new to the bee world.

[@vinofarm]

Here is the initial reveal of my frames two years ago... kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGiZaYJ_dpiVg9E

[@johnkese8953]

Waiting to buy the frames (no woodworking tools)…..pls don’t give up. (Would like to covert all my double deep and single brood boxes to bee barn style brood boxes.)

[@clarkkent7973]

@@vinofarm Do they sell foundation in a "non-standard" size?

[@Hayatonyaaa]

You underestimate how entertaining just watching how things are built is. Especially when I'm already a fan of you and your bees. I live in an apartment and don't own a single power tool, but this video was definitely for me.

[@ironmyno]

If every engineer I ever worked with had the hand skills and the creative talent that you've shown I would have never left the profession. I couldn't give out any higher praise.

[@johnkillen588]

AS an experienced wood worker of a life time and a 8 year bee keeper that video was TOP NOTCH............................THANK YOU FOR YOUR EFFORTS as i have watched many of your vids.

[@kfffisher]

VERY thoughtful SAFETY idea to tell people just how dangerous woodworking tools can be. I've met one to many who ignored their skill level of dangerous woodworking tools and payed a huge price for it in the way of missing digits. SO IMPORTANT FOR ONE TO KNOW WHAT THEIR LEVEL OF SKILL IS in this section of the BeeBarn Build. Wonderful video, I can't wait to create them myself. P.S. Personally, If the frames were available for purchase--- that would be the route that I would take.

[@vinofarm]

Thanks. I went back and forth on actually making this video but decided to just show how I did it and be as careful as possible. I figured that would be better than leaving the process a mystery and have people out there improvising. There are ALWAYS going to be risky woodworking cuts. I tried to show these as carefully as I could.

[@RockyDStevens]

I’ve learned so much from you! Thank you. Not only have you inspired me to start my first year in beekeeper this spring but you’ve inspired my girlfriend to start making bread too🍞. I’ve watched every one of your videos up to season 6 (in order) over the past year and a half. You mentioned something about possibly working on manufacturing these frames to sell. I’m a furniture maker in Colorado and have the shop to produce these frames. I’d love to start the conversation about making that happen if you haven’t already started working with someone. Thanks again for always providing value to your audience.

[@DonovanCYoung]

I winced at some of those "questionable" table saw cuts, particularly without using a riving knife! Kickback is real, and dangerous, so I'm glad you included the "don't try this at home" warning in the beginning. 🙂

[@vinofarm]

If my table saw had a riving knife, I would use it. Riving knives are great. My other saw has a riving knife, but does not take dado blades.

[@robinb1451]

Thank you Jim love the way you explain the way you do things, thanks for all you have put into these videos for our entertainment and the good of our apiaries!

[@josefsaldivar9172]

Do you have a email where I can contact you I have a idea for your idea 💡 great work !!!

[@vinofarm]

About page.

[@justinlankford9081]

I’m a K.I.S.S. and a numbers guy, so here’s my breakdown that helped me follow along and build these (with top and bottom bar instructions added, and a much simpler Block plan) Step ½. Plane boards to 1 3/8” Step 1. Cut to 15 3/4” lengths Step 2. Top DADO 7/8” wide and 7/16” deep Step 3. Bottom DADO 3/4" wide and 3/8” deep Step 4. Rip to 3/8” strips Step 5. Cut Groove 1/8” wide and 5/16” deep Step 6. Shape the sides with 3/8” DADO 1/4" deep on each side Step 7. Shape the blocks. Cut a board to 1” x 2” however long you want, cut grooves on each 1” side about 1/8” wide and 5/16” deep. Then rip into 1” pieces. Do not cut against the fence. Step 8. Cut the gusset triangles. (don’t skip, build for long-lasting rigidity, don’t be lazy) Cut 1/8” Baltic birch plywood sheets (amazon easy source) into 2” strips, then make 45 degree cuts on miter saw. Step 9. Glue four sides of frame together Step 10. Glue 4 gussets Step 11. Place foundation in place and glue 2 blocks and tack in place with 1/4” galvanized staples (ALTERNATE DEEP/MEDIUM sections every other frame) TOP BAR: (DADANT TYPE FRAME GUIDE, pdf’s widely available and recommend you use it with these instructions) Step 1. Cut boards into 1 1/16” wide 3/4" tall 19” long strips Step 2. Cut 1/4" deep 1/16” wide groove down the middle of one side (this will be bottom side) Step 3. Cut 3/8” DADO 1/16” deep 5/8” from each side on both sides, 4 total cuts per top bar Step 4. Cut 1/4" deep DADO 3/8” wide 5/8” from the end of each TOP BAR on the bottom side Step 5. Cut 5/16” DADO 5/8” wide on the ends on the bottom side Step 6. Cut 1/4" corner roundover or 45 degree miter on all 4 corners Step 7. Cut off tack strip (optional) 1/4" from bottom on one side BOTTOM BAR: Step 1. Cut boards into 3/4" wide 3/8” tall 17 3/4" long strips Step 2. Cut 1/8” groove 5/16” deep

[@salmonhunter7414]

thank you !!!!

[@beecie100]

Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge and creativity 💛🐝💛

[@gregoryjohns9537]

Just getting back into beekeeping after a 40+ year lapse. Not sure if I'll be going the bee barn just yet, but your vids are certainly making me think more as well as gaining knowledge. Thank you!

[@dougdorrer4622]

To prevent blowout at the end of the dado cut, cut halfway thru, backoff, and cut from the opposite side to finish the cut

[@apveening]

Was also my first thought when I saw those blowouts.

[@bradwamsley3465]

Great idea, I will personally use that method when I make my own double deep (19”) side frame bars.

[@vinofarm]

Doug... Who has that kind of time????

[@apveening]

@@vinofarm Everybody has as those blowouts ruined some of the potential struts, at least one on every cut.

[@vinofarm]

@@apveening You won't get all perfectly sized slices. The last slice is an oddball leftover. So just make sure you leave the blow out side to be the last pass. Problem solved!

[@waitselkelley6383]

Thank you so much!! I will have bees next spring, going to use time from now to then to get ready! Have watched all your and Mr.Fredrick Dunn's post. Really appreciate you guys. Reading all I can. Thanks again!!

[@lindafoofoo]

I have been following your beekeeping journey since about 2015. It's been quite a journey, as has mine. My first hive was back in 2011. What did I know about beekeeping? Looking back, virtually nothing. By dumb luck I guess, the hive survived a pretty cold winter in a single deep. Mites? AFB? Requeening? All foreign terms. I would recommend anyone considering becoming a "hobbyist" beekeeper to watch many beekeeping videos. It's a lot more than just putting a bunch of bees in a wooden box, sitting back and getting honey in the fall. Your inventive spirit always amazes and challenges me. Good luck on your journey!

[@danholtbk7008]

You're right. Many hobbyists are "bee havers" not beekeepers. I know some and they just buy new bees every year, sit back and get honey in the fall. I'm focused on the challenge of getting the bees through a Minnesota winter - and with Jim's help I succeeded this year. I super insulated my 4 hives (kind of a cobbled together bee barn) and all four hives survived. I'll be building bee barns for them this summer.

[@donbearden1953]

Jim, great video! You are blessed to be so talented in so many different ways!!!

[@vinofarm]

Thanks, Don. It’s mostly editing magic, though. I appreciate the support!

[@johnbush3610]

Doing my first bee barn this year. So far, everything is going great. One tip for others I'd suggest is ensure your med and large frames are fairly aligned. Mine are slightly askew on a couple, resulting in wild comb. Thanks Jim, love your videos!

[@Tyler-nj5dr]

I'd love an update on your barn this summer! Thanks so much for posting the build series. Looks like a lot of work. God bless you and your family. :)

[@ukana5315]

I am also waiting for updates on the apiary this year

[@Tyler-nj5dr]

I meant his pole barn lol

[@andematt08]

Thank you for making all these videos!! I’ve kept bees in northern WI for a few years and was really excited to watch the bee barn experiment when you first started it. I’ve been waiting for the frame video most of all! Thanks for innovating and sharing all your hypotheses and results, greatly appreciated. I’ll be converting to bee barns and using with flow hives.

[@hightechfarmers]

Plan to build my bee barns this year and would purchase the deeper frames for it if you have a mfg lined up. The bee barns themselves are enough DIY and don't feel the need to go through the frames building too if they can be purchased. Appreciate you showing some great steps on how to make them. It was enough to know I would rather buy than build those. But playing with the foam board was a new experience and kinda fun to work with. Bees all over will live better in summer and winter with the more insulated design and hope we see a trend of adoption.

[@user-asyoulike]

It's so long time i miss your new thing..keep up greet work. You're friend from North Africa Libya alkhoms..

[@Kandyman54]

Dear Vino Farms, This is an AWESOME well thought out and researched subject. I purchased 2 Lyson 8/9 hives to get started. I cut the dados for the side bars using the tenon attachment that came with my 1940’s vintage Delta saw. Like you mentioned: you use what you have. I’ve watched this series 3 times and still haven’t picked up on whether you use 8 or 9 frames in your 8/9 size hive, in both the brood boxes and supers. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.

[@vinofarm]

So far I have 7 frames and a spacer in the brood boxes. I can expand up to 9 frames during the spring buildup. They will go through winter with 7 (+spacer). I use 8 frame supers.

[@danholtbk7008]

Jim, You've probably already thought of this but if you get to the point where you are having a mold made for your frames, consider having only one mold made that has "ears" on both the top and the bottom (for hanging the frames in the hive box). Then the customer can cut off one set of ears on each frame, giving them the ability to flip the frames so that the gaps are staggered (just like you said they should be). The ears could easily be cut off with a jig saw or even a fine tooth pull saw. This would save you the expense of having two separate molds made. Hope this helps.

[@spudgn]

Loved it and thanks Jim.

[@daveb8598]

Awesome, thank you for showing this whole process! Hopefully this will be my first year beekeeping, I've been watching videos for years and getting involved in my local group. I'll be building these soon!

[@guillaumelafleche9477]

Thanks for all the ideas, inspiration, and guidance! I made 18 frames from scratch last year because the store was out of stock and why not. All foundationless with either fishing line or a few sizes of metal wire running through from side to side. I can see many advantages to deeper frames and boxes, I'm even considering going wider, only drawback is that you need long strong arms to handle. I can't stop dreaming about bee barn 3.0.😉 No, not trying to take over your project, but viable ideas go on and evolve like species and we must let them.

[@joecnc3341]

Great Video. Certainly a lot of work but well worth it Thank You!

[@jonjensen1118]

Great job Jim! I've been waiting on this video!! I'm all in for purchasing frames, but I'll try my hand at making them first, Thanks again!

[@DougMcHone]

Year one: I didn't build any gussets. No issues to report. Year two: I am not so worried about the middle tabs, only that they are less than half the thickness of the void. This is a very sustainable concept within a personal apiary. A lot of allowance is available for the dimensions. Can't wait for year two!

[@lindasullivan77]

Thank you for all your wonderful videos! I want to make one of your hives this summer, I think your ideas are great and great for the bees. I wish I had your shop. Lol

[@krishirlee]

Are you going to keep using wood supers or will you be going to the polystyrene boxes for those as well? And do you have a video that shows how you transitioned from the regular frames to your long frames?

[@dougwhitmore8104]

Great job Jim! We are getting below zero temperatures with high winds here in Maine this weekend. Sure wish I had some of these super insulated hives now🥶. I’m very interested in purchasing some of these frames. All the best, Doug

[@vinofarm]

Yeah, it’s currently HOTH in central MA right now.

[@derekanderson2204]

Just wanted to say thank you for all of your videos. lost my bees in 2021 and getting back into it this year with Bee Barns

[@BrianCooper901]

Great video! Looking forward to the next one! Your videos got me excited enough to become a beekeeper and to record my inspections. Your editing skills are on a whole nother level though! Thanks for sharing!

[@duanearmitage-pv5cu]

Nicely thought out. Great job

[@v8eater2]

I made some 3D printed “couplers” to utilize the standard deep and medium sides to make bee barn frames.

[@BlanchardsBees]

🐝 I do like the size of those frames 🐝

[@kevinmcfadden9772]

I am looking forward to seeing your results over the next couple seasons! Please, for step 2, build a tenon jig. That is a wicked dangerous cut and a tenon jig would eliminate so much of the risk. They’re wicked easy to make and all over KZbin. Speaking of safety-get a riving knife on that table saw! It’ll be challenging getting frames out with only a few fingers!

[@vinofarm]

It's an old saw. No riving knife anchor point, unfortunately. My other saw has a riving knife but doesn't take dado blades.

[@kevinmcfadden9772]

You can make an insert plate and incorporate a splitter into it. Stumpy nubs has a KZbin video on it worth checking out. It’s titled, “Make SAFER, cleaner table saw cuts with this splitter/throat insert” Thanks for the response and best of luck this beekeeping season!

[@peterbarnes3625]

Using/making a tenon jig (super simple) for the dado cuts is a safer way to do it since you can clamp the material down and move the whole jig through, when I made the xl frames I followed the @beekeepersworkshop build series and it worked great! He even walks through building the top bar which is the most tedious step but also a lot of fun

[@vinofarm]

There are several ways to do all of these things. I'm just sharing my process. I think the dado cuts are actually not difficult or as dangerous as they seem because you're holding on to a large block of wood very securely. The hardest part is keeping the cut straight. A jig would definitely help with that. The worst cuts for me were the slices, but the Grabber Pro block was a game changer. Doing the old "two pushstick" shuffle last time was exhausting and treacherous when the pieces got smaller. The push block was relaxing. Zero effort!

[@azpcox]

100% agree on making some jigs for this. You would be amazed, and KZbin is filled with examples of folks that had secure grips on blocks of wood. I know you are comfortable with working with a dado but the 30 minutes on a jig makes the rest of the pieces consistent and safe.

[@microtcpip]

Pretty exciting about getting started building these frames. My question is if you have considered using metal for the GUSSETS instead of plywood. I am talking about heavy gauge like vent material. I am planning on experimenting with that idea and see how it holds. Thanks!

[@hilldaflyer4593]

Hi Jim, Loving your BeeBarn. I'm also here is MA and insulate my hives but not in the same lavish style as you. I had a question regarding the side bars. Do the side bars need to be more narrow near the bottom? Bees can get from one side of the comb to the other through the communication gap that is left between the deep and medium foundation. Alternatively rather than making a plywood jig to narrow the side bars, why not just make the foundation 3/8" narrower? The foundation already doesn't reach the side bar. Just make the gap wide enough for a bee to walk.

[@driventowin]

Jim, I love your super insulated Bee Barns 2.0! Great job with the videos. I see value in larger frames, i.e. more natural brood laying patterns. I watched all the videos hoping to see why you went with a deep plus medium plastic foundation? Maybe I missed it. Why not go with two deep plastic foundations per frame OR two medium plastic foundations? How did you settle on a mixed approach, by that I mean, a "Deep AND Medium" plastic foundation per frame? I'm asking, because I'm about to build your "Bee Barn Hive" and I am thinking about making my frames with 2 deep plastic foundations per frame. Thanks again for you videos and your reply to this question.

[@driventowin]

Jim, I love your super insulated Bee Barns 2.0! Great job with the videos. I see value in larger frames, i.e. more natural brood laying patterns. I watched all the videos hoping to see why you went with a deep plus medium plastic foundation? Maybe I missed it. Why not go with two deep plastic foundations per frame?

[@annkrupa2349]

I will definitely have the hubs watch this. He is the table saw guy in this household. I am the ever-ready assistant. I am gonna give this a go. Thanks for sharing. Question: when the frames are together and in the box and the bees are drawing the space in between foundations, do you see them building more drone comb or worker comb. Just curious as what to expect to see.

[@vinofarm]

It’s a mix. Some make perfectly flat worker comb. Others leave giant holes. Some make full drone comb. It’s interesting to see what happens.

[@JustBees]

I use 2 medium boxes instead of a deep and I checkerboard deeps with mediums. I let the bees draw long comb. Once it gets long enough, I just cut off the bottom strip, rubber band to a medium and put it in the super. Move the medium frame that's filled up into the super and then put an empty medium back in the brood box. The capped brood hatches and the bees back fill promptly with nectar.

[@sledmaker02]

I have been rewatching this video and I like the deeper frame and how they are made. My question is how would you change out old comb from the brood chamber and not loose brood?

[@vinofarm]

I will be posting a how-to-transition video soon.

[@sledmaker02]

@@vinofarm I will be watching for it!!!! Thank you so much.

[@MisterBech]

Jim, I have a couple of questions. 1. Why do you have the grooves on the frame sides? They don’t seem to be used other than at top and bottom for your gussets, at those places you could just glue in those gussets or thicker ones (3/4 in.) w/o using the slots. 2. For the blocks, why did you use plywood? It seems like extra steps to glue it up cut to size and then slot. I’d think a 1x2 that you slot would work fine. Tip… For the frame sides, you can exactly center that slot by doing what you did for the blocks. Run them through twice, once in each direction. The slot would be a little wider than 1/8” but it already is on the top and bottom.

[@vinofarm]

1. The grooves make the gussets WAY sturdier and far easier to install than just face gluing. It ads a mechanical connection along with the glue. The grooves are easier to cut in one push though the saw than just cutting one end and flipping around. They are the easiest part of the process. 2. I tried just using 1x2 dimensional lumber the first time. Think about the grain direction after you cut that piece out. After you remove the grooves for the foundation and cut them to size, they just start splitting in half. The grain needs to be going the other way. (Hence, my first round of hand cutting all the grooves on those "across" the grain as opposed to "with" the grain.) I've thought all this stuff through and made all the mistakes for you.

[@BryanRay-t4x]

Do you recommend any special procedures for transferring a already established bees from and Langstroth to the new Bee barn?

[@brown5588anna]

yes - i would just like the side bars. I would be able to assemble everything else myself!

[@jeffy104]

Great video! I’ve been making these frames for a couple years now. My method is easier and faster with far fewer steps but I’ve been a woodworker for many years.

[@phillipduncan2497]

As far as selling frames you could just supply the side bars, corner gussets and the connector blocks. Add the top and bottom bars and sell them unassembled. This will save a lot of labor costs.

[@bradwamsley3465]

Jim, there is a workshop in Brentwood, NH that made my double deep side frames on his CDC machine. If you want I could ask if he is interested in going large scale.

[@vinofarm]

@@bradwamsley3465 What are they made from? I assume large scale cnc production would use plywood. Not sure that’s Ideal for sidebars.

[@bradwamsley3465]

@@vinofarm eastern pine

[@bradwamsley3465]

Is there anyway I can send a photo on this site.

[@vinofarm]

@@bradwamsley3465 [e-mail]

[@thomasweatherby5407]

Great, Thank you so much. Have you thought about doing a kickstarter to fund your project?

[@vinofarm]

Please watch next weeks video. Way ahead of you.

[@cathyhanley8658]

I am very much interested in buying these frames. The cost will be worth it in the end.

[@eliinthewolverinestate6729]

I make my Lazutin frames basically a double deep Langstroph frame with 2 by and 1.5 diameter dowel. I cut the dowel in half and 2 by into 3/8 strips. I screw the dowel on top bar and use for bottom bar. I drill pass through holes in top dowel. I notch the sides with skill saw. I add a vertical bamboo skewer in center for comb support. The dowel acts as starter strip too.

[@planbeeapiaries]

Nice job! For the little blocks I would use a 2 by something board trimmed to the dimensions instead of laminating plywood, then I would use a thicker blade from the dado stack to make the groove (single pass) and finally use a cross cutting jig so you don’t get blow out (same for the other components). I am seriously thinking about building this now. :). Thank you!

[@vinofarm]

I did that and the grain direction was wrong in the finished piece. Lots of splitting.

[@rockymntsax]

Hey, I've been thinking. What would a horizontal hive with these frames be like...? I'm half tempted to try. The horizontal hive bee-barn!

[@stevemiller6237]

I am in the process of building a horizontal hive with a combination of these deep frames and regular deeps for honey storage.

[@phillipduncan2497]

You can save time by using only a 5/8" dado. You adjust the fence to cut one half of the top notch and then flip the board around to cut the other side. Then it is only a matter of moving the fence to cut the bottom notches. If you nave access to a router table you can set up a straight cutting bit and a stop block to cut the sides down. Make sure you use all the safety equipment. Keep your fingers away from the spinning bit.

[@vinofarm]

Good ideas. Thanks. I still hate router tables, though. I’m way more comfortable on a table saw.

[@strive4impact]

Interested in the next video too!

[@mauriceupp9381]

On that grabber block you could run little beads of silicone on it for the grip

[@kensmith7453]

Great series of video's and I'm in the process of starting my switch to your barns. How do you recommend the transition from regular Langstroth hives to the barns? Do you just hang the regular frames in there and at some point once he hive has established on the barn frames, pull the regular deeps? I want to transition my current hives as well as spring nuc's and want to give everyone the best shot at acclimating to the barns. Any suggestions would be appreciated, or maybe even a short video on how you made the switch. Thank you from another MA beekeeper!

[@vinofarm]

I’ll be making a “how to transition” video soon. You can do it like you said, or you could pre-transition by making your current brood box into a deep/medium and then putting a couple blank BeeBarn frames into it for a few weeks. Once the bees draw out the comb and the queen has started to lay into the bee barn frames, you can move them over to the bee barn. Then temporarily put the regular deep brood frames on top with a queen excluder and let the brood emerge and migrate down.

[@cowpoke02]

Like what you did. Thought same way. Like European frames. Narrow but taller to mimic nature... about same thing... put those into top bar hive. Develop own barn. Looks good ... mostly important keep bees not to cold in winter ...

[@SpencerBrennan001]

OH Man!! Such a fun rip around the wood shop. Love the design & build! I am feeling the itch bad for some 3D printed mini parts at the corners & gap bit to make it click assemble with straight sections like a KNEX or something. I think its needing to crop the foundation corners that irks me. But I’m sans barn & wood shop & Computer Bound so my thinking tends to drift into 3D model & print land. Great job dude!! Is maintaining Langstroth Compatibility a MUST going forward? Is it about the supers & spinners? You seem to be growing past the Langstroth module so it makes me think Lgst is still kinda busted. I think you’ll break 4 figures on Honey weight this year. Gonna finally pair up the old Flow hive to a barn this time around?? Happy 2023

[@michaeledwardobrien]

Great tutorial - have to give this a try! Sign me up to buy if/when you have them! (and the safety conscious table saw user in me says - pull up those sleeves when cutting - prevents the blade from grabbing and pulling you in)

[@vinofarm]

Sleeves are very tight. Camera angles make a lot of movements look closer to the blade than they really are. I hear you. No loose clothing around machines.

[@GrandLedgeSDAChurch]

How would you move an existing single brood colony into your bee barn?

[@MohamedUAE]

I would like to thank you for your effort in making these frames and try to transfer this knowledge to people like me who knows little about carpentry but love bees ;) Q. If you put the two plastic foundation side by side vertically instead of horizontally, don't you think you'll save lots of time/efforts!

[@vinofarm]

I tried that. The weight of the comb and bees makes it pop out very easily that way. I tried a lot of things before coming up with this frame. Thanks.

[@Tigenraam]

I really love the idea of the longer frames, as someone who hated doing inspections with two deep brood boxes. My only concern with this is how to deal with nucs. Package bees are not a thing here so I'm at a loss for how one would install nucs and split to sell or gift to other beekeepers using standard Langstroth.

[@realnixon3652]

I wonder that too

[@apveening]

Make nucs to use the longer frames as well (Vino farm does). As for others using standard Langstroth, I have a feeling that problem will solve itself within a few years.

[@vinofarm]

The trick is to live in a region with lots of bee barn beekeepers! Regarding installing regular nucs INTO bee barns, there are ways… I will be making a How To Transition video over the next few weeks.

[@bethrobbins181]

I’ve been thinking about the NUC transfer as well. As soon as it warms up, I want to split a hive, but will have to carefully move their resources. I think by doing this a frame or two at a time, it will be easily done. Half of the new frame will already be set up and I can just move the other foundation carefully, it will be relatively simple. I am really interested to hearing how I can obtain some of the parts premade. The table saw used for Vino Farm would definitely not be in my skill set. I can’t wait for the next video.

[@BondJamesBond79]

Hey check this out. I'm starting to think about transferring Lang to Layens and what I've worked out is that I'll stack the lang on the Layens and let them expand down. Think of a Warre hive. I'd say take your nuc, put it on top of the bee barn and let it grow down into it. Eventually pull the top box off as a super. It'll be slow, maybe a year plus, but gradual might be good for them.

[@cathyhanley8658]

I just watched that video of Bee to Z! I also watched him running away from some angry bees while he was trying to weed whack.

[@Jorg-]

Thanks - great stuff! ... what is the best way to transfer the bees from standard deep frames to the XL frames? (assuming new wax foundation in the XL and wax foundation/foundation-less in the old ones)

[@vinofarm]

There will be a video about transitioning in the coming weeks.

[@seangalvin2168]

Jim, On this journey. Have you tried splicing together existing deep and medium frames? if so what were the + or - ? Thanks, Sean

[@danholtbk7008]

I think he did show that on an earlier video. He didn't like the fact that there was not a gap between the top and bottom plastic foundations. See his reply to Christopher Hardman on the very first comment on this video as to why he likes a gap.

[@glennmorehead243]

Something to do during the winter

[@jasonjohnson1984]

Mr. Jim I would be interested in the frames I suck on doing wood I was never taught or had wood working in school so I have much respect for y'all wood workers

[@what_Love_Drew_forth]

Seems like it would save a good bit of work to make this a foundation-less frame. What do you see as the drawback of doing so?

[@vinofarm]

Feel free to try it. No way I would, though. It is a massive space.

[@what_Love_Drew_forth]

@@vinofarm is it about the effort it takes the bees to fill it or the structural support of such a large space?

[@vinofarm]

@@what_Love_Drew_forth It's about how fragile the comb would be in such a huge unsupported space. It's not worth the headache. Just use foundation. Foundation can be swapped out very easily when needed.

[@what_Love_Drew_forth]

@@vinofarm thank you for the information.

[@donniefiechtner5437]

If you don't own a big shear, you can score the foundation with a knife and bend it to snap off the corners.

[@sharondul2502]

Excellent video series! Do you have a video showing how you move the bees to the new set up?

[@vinofarm]

There will be soon.

[@sharondul2502]

Greatly appreciated!

[@staffydot7075]

As a new bee keeper and like the thought that has gone in to your bee barn, in considering if I could convert my Langstroth hive but as a poor woodworker with limited tools making the frames is put me off. Is there any reason I can not 3D print the side bars blocks and gusset in one piece ??

[@waltermullins8854]

What is the purpose of the gussets? Are they required, or just a really good idea?

[@johnolsen1192]

I would be interested in buying them

[@bulbash-bee]

great job, great!

[@sirwinstonhoneybees1376]

16:03 what is the depth of the groove? Looks like about 1/2"?

[@glennmorehead243]

Hey when you get a chance I know you're very busy person like I am Glenmore from New Hampshire love you videos I love your hive your barn ideas awesome but I have some really great ideas and how to make things easier and simpler for you cuz I am a woodworker

[@vinofarm]

When I get a chance, what do you want me to do?

[@julianallen4159]

Thank you so much for this Jim !!!!!!

[@ryanstreckfuss9590]

Jim! I have another note! :) What if instead of leaving the gap between foundations, the gussets occupy the horizontal empty space? So, the height of the inside of the channel on these deepmed(patent pending ;) )frames minus the higher of a deep and a medium foundation will give you 2y where as y is the height of each gusset allowing the gussets to remain, no blocks to be made, and none of the cross building issues that comes with the gapping in the middle

[@vinofarm]

I am willing to listen to design ideas, but you've lost me. You need to draw that on a napkin!

[@ryanstreckfuss9590]

@@vinofarm I'd be happy to but I don't think there's a way to post a picture here. Send me a friend request on Facebook and I'll message you a pic

[@vinofarm]

@@ryanstreckfuss9590 [e-mail]

[@danholtbk7008]

The gap is a feature, not a mistake. See his reply to the first pinned comment.

[@ryanstreckfuss9590]

@@danholtbk7008 the gap is not an ideal feature in my opinion. There is plenty of room available without the potential for wonky comb through the entire hive. If he had said he'd stagger even and odd frames for the placement of the deep and medium frames I could see his point but I politely disagree with his decision

[@krazzzz2000]

Thank you!

[@eddierunde5160]

Do you have PDF plans for the Bee Barn 2.0? I haven't been able to find any. Thanks

[@vinofarm]

No. Just a 5 part video series. Everyone is starting with different materials. My goal is to show the techniques and concepts and let people improvise.

[@lucasingala5304]

Question? What table saw are you using? My Dewalt is saying it will only go up to a 13/16 size dado. Thinking of getting something different

[@vinofarm]

My dado set is also 13/16". You should measure the top bars you plan on using. There is great variability in the width of the top bar notches on different manufacturers' wooden parts. I didn't realize that until I started designing my new sidebars. You may find you need to use something smaller than 13/16. If you need 7/8, I'm pretty sure a 13/16 dado will slip on with a bit of wood glue and gentle pressure. Smaller is better than larger. You don't want a sloppy fit.

[@lucasingala5304]

@@vinofarm oh yea good point. Thanks!

[@mattsteenbeke9175]

I would be interested in 20 frames. I am not too interested in making them for myself. Have you had any progress on getting injection molded ones?

[@CrazyIvan865]

I may have thought of a better way to just elininate the block. Either use staples put in at a slight angle to hold the foundation in place... ir use a small shim pressed into that groove to keep the foundations separated. Might end up being a PITA for changing foundations. But might also turn out just fine.

[@chrisdavis2121]

Aside from what appears to be a desire to make plastic frames. Have you reached out to a CNC shop or tried to build the side rails on a CNC machine? I'm going to try next month when I get back to my wood shop. Seems like it should be fairly easy to cut them out, but if you had issues I wouldn't mind knowing about them before I try. Thanks.

[@vinofarm]

Plywood is a horrible material to put inside a moist, humid beehive. So don’t use plywood. If you want to mill down solid wood boards to 3/8” thick, hope there’s no cupping, and babysit a CNC while it cuts, go for it. It’s way too much effort and as you know CNC will leave a LOT of waste. Not saying it’s not POSSIBLE, but it’s not a solution for the scale I’m looking at.

[@chrisdavis2121]

@@vinofarm thanks for the answer. Yes of course don't use plywood. There could be an issue with cupping on a 3/8" thick board, good point. I'll have to think about that one, wouldn't want the side rails to warp and become unusable. Didn't really think it would be a viable solution for you at the scale your looking for but thanks again and thanks for the info you are putting out. These frames look so effective I'm trying to build a few for my dad to try out.

[@vinofarm]

@@chrisdavis2121 CNC or 3D printing or even table saw cut are all perfectly fine for making a few of these, but once you get into the hundreds of pieces, you will see the frustration I’ve been facing. And the cuts are only about 1/3 of the process. The gussets and spacers and assembly are the other 2/3 of the work. And THEN when you finish, you still only have a wooden frame that has a limited life. I’m trying to create a frame that has extremely minimal assembly, zero fasteners, that will last decades and be produced at a much larger scale. Molding is the way of the future.

[@bigmattydaddysymz7993]

Yes! Part Four

[@seanrichardson881]

I do not have a dato set and utilize a router in a homemade gig for those cuts.

[@JoeMcMahonRemax]

I love what your are doing here and plan to make a couple bee barns myself. Just need to find a way to get the Lyson frames to Canada. One question for you… do you have any plans to incorporate the Flow hive system? I think it would work ok to put the Flow frame super on top for the warm season, then just remove it for winter? I love the flow frames for their ease of use to get some honey but have a short season here too which makes it difficult to use without issue.

[@mauriceupp9381]

You could make that saw grabber block with a 2x4 a handle and a little scrap of wood at the back to hold it from getting away

[@Steele_Wings]

Hopefully you can provide a detail drawing of all frame parts and we can make a 3D print of frame parts.

[@brennancockey9140]

To save a ton of time, after cutting the dados for top and bottom why not cut the bee space at the side of the bars from the block on the band saw before slicing into individual sidebars?

[@vinofarm]

I prefer to run the slices with a flat surface on the table saw. Pre cutting the bee space would make a very wobbly block to push through the table saw dozens of times. Of course, it is possible to do it in that order if you’re comfortable.

[@mojotheamazing]

How did you transfer from the old frames to the new queen size one?

[@maurorossi8708]

Where can I found the measures of those Brood frames? Metric If I understood correctly the top and the bottom are standard ? ( US or UK) ? The vertical ones I can probably do that on my CNC easily

[@Ikantspell4]

Wonderful video. I love the gap where the bees can draw drone comb or queen cells or whatever they need. Looks a bit to tedious for me to build and maybe not enough return on investment to get but I love this design. One thing I do like about have bottom boxes that are interchangeable with top boxes is you can move comb easier. Being able to put fresh comb in the bottom easy is an advantage of having all the boxes be the same. Ideally brood get fresh comb pretty regularly and the fact that not all frames and boxes are interchangeable with all parts seems a bit of a disadvantage. I guess where you have a relatively substantial apiary it's better for you because have lots of everything but for a urban keeper where the city only allows 2 hives it would mean having to have more spare parts to change around. If all the boxes are the same you can swap out from wherever. Also if you ever had to move the big box it would be a real big project.

[@vinofarm]

Two things: In one season, I converted over to all large frames. So every hive in my apiary all DO have the same size frames. Everything is interchangeable. And the point of the Bee Barns is that they are stationary. They are not meant to move. Bees do not like their hives being moved, ever. So these stay put.

[@hilohilo6962]

Hello Sir, I am a beekeeper from Algeria. I work on a natural system consisting of six easy conditions. When I applied six conditions to any beehive, the Varroa died without treatment with medication, and the number of bees increased by 80%, and the brood gave birth within 16 days.

[@vinofarm]

Sounds like you should start a KZbin channel.

[@mmalton]

Have you thought about doing these in ABS type plastic? You could make them split in two so you can fit your frames in and snap them close. Might be cheaper to produce and also the plastic should hold up longer. You should look into a 3D printer!

[@vinofarm]

Next video. Next week.

[@bradwamsley3465]

@@vinofarm Interesting, can’t wait for the video.

[@MisterBech]

3d printing will take a long time, not really suitable for production volumes. Injection molding would be the way to go but you have high cost tooling. Extruding the side pieces and then slicing them would be an option. Casting them in a SIL one mold might work, as would stamping them with a hot die press.

[@MisterBech]

If you make those side blocks out of 3/4 to 1” mdf you won’t have to glue up plywood and won’t have the grain issues from split wood. Another option is to just 3D print them. If you did that you could include a ridge down the back side to fit in your side frame slots. In a high volume situation, I’d probably just extrude the profile out of plastic and cut them to length automatically.

[@ToddJDutt]

If you leave the foundation corners intact, would it not preform the same function as the gussets? To me it seems like it would but you obviously have a reason for doing what your doing. Thanks for the tutorials over the past few weeks! (Edit): so I made my initial comment before I saw the very end of the video on changing out foundation, is this why you cut the frame instead of using it as a full sheet. Thanks again

[@vinofarm]

No, the gussets are glued to the wood. They make the corners solid, non-flexing, non-racking joints. The cut corners on the foundation make this about 10 times easier: 30:22