Quick Tips Episode 4- Re-Establishing the Primary Bevel

[@staceylewisdesigns]

Thanks Deneb for sending me to this video. Still good in 2024!

[@kenmurayama3613]

Thank you so much for this. I made the huge mistake of attempting to use a bench grinder. And my iron hadn’t been the same since. I just could not get a proper edge on my stones. After following your video prior to using my stones, it fixed everything.

[@AaronBelknap]

Deneb is a Genius, he has helped me make my old planes razor sharp after years of abuse and my wood working experience a fun one.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

That sounds about right. It will help keep your edge away from things that may damage it though. You can also recycle the sand paper for other tasks once it is done repairing the edge. Thanks for watching.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

Ah, good question. We are just re-establishing the primary 25deg bevel in this video. You would do this after your honed secondary bevel grows to the point of slowing down your sharpening (usually when it grows to 1/3-1/2 of the primary bevel). Once you get the 25 deg primary bevel back, you will hone the secondary bevel with your stones at what ever angle you need. We have found the 8000 grit water stone to be the ideal finishing grit.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

We encourage people to use what works for them, our method is one way of many ways to a razor sharp edge. Oil stones work very well, we have found that water stones cut very fast and are easy to maintain. Again, keep up the good work and keep watching. Thanks

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

When you need to re establish that 25deg bevel there is a significant amount of metal to remove. You wouldn't go to a stone for many reasons. 1) They are expensive. 2) Their grit is to fine. We suggest 80, 180, 220 and maybe 400 and if you could get a stone that rough you would wear it out in one session. 3) The sand paper won't dish out during the process, leaving you with a much more accurate result. Once you get that bevel re-established you can move to the fine stones for final honing.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

When using water stones it is a good habit to get into to pull back. When you get into the steeper angles you are at greater risk of digging into the stone when pushing forward. With DMT's plates you can't dig in so you don't have that risk.

[@hastingb]

I have a plane blade that's way out of square and I was wondering how to fix this. Thanks for this video.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

You can use 150 grit for all stones. It is really about getting the stones flattened quickly. A diamond lapping plate a nice luxury to have though.

[@roofermarc1]

If I lived next door to LN I'd be there once a week looking around. Of course I'd be spending my money too.

[@Mike--K]

I didn't see where you adjusted the chisel in the honing guide after removing some of the material. Won't the angle change as you continue to remove material?

[@mdhunstiger]

With respect to diamond lapping plates, do you also use just one course-ness, or do you use a different plate for different grits of stones? If the latter, what are the matchings/ranges/cutoffs for particular lapping plates with particular stone grits (e.g. use lapping plate A with stone grits between x and y, etc.)? Also, thanks for your responses to questions.

[@smfield]

I get fairly good results with wet-dry paper honing the secondary to 2000 with this paper. This is not as good as a 8000 stone but it's quick. I'm not sure but I think it's similar to the 'carry sharp' method.

[@fouroakfarm]

Thanks for all the very informative videos. I noticed that DMT recommends sharpening blades by moving them cutting edge forward and I see that you prefer to sharpen by moving the cutting edge backward. Does this make a difference?

[@mdhunstiger]

What would you recommend for a wet/dry paper used with a granite surface plate to flatten stones? Especially, how to choose the relative grit of the sandpaper vs. stone to be flattened. Or do you only use the diamond lapping plates for that?

[@strolgen]

No worries, found them. I'm guessing they don't leave adhesive residue when peeling them off the "table"?

[@concddad]

This looks great. My one concern is the cost. It looked to me like fixing a nick in a half inch chisel in the video required about one and a half one foot long sheets of each of 80, 180, and 400 grit. By my estimate, the 80 grit is 80 cents a foot, and the 180 and 400 grits are half that. So, the cost comes out to 1.5 times $0.80 + $0.40 + $0.40 which is $2.40, to repair the one nick. I'd love to hear that I'm wrong because there's so much about this method that's really appealing.

[@Frankowillo]

Use a wet wheel grinder.

[@matthewpl6863]

Seriously though, that sandpaper is like $60 a roll, for each different grit too. 3 rolls is nearly $200. I can get a bunch of quality stones or 3 brand new LN Chisels for that amount.

[@laanguiano]

How come you used sandpaper to re bevel the iron? Why not use a stone? And if you used a stone to rebevel which grit would you use? Thanks!

[@timothywozniak6952]

3M Gold comes in adhesive backed rolls. I have used for auto body work.

[@iwantagoodnameplease]

What was the little bit of leather for on the angle-finding board?

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

@marioaleal Ha! Good, we lost our old KZbin site due to a hack, and this one never made it back on there. Thanks for watching.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

We use just one grit. Lapping plates are expensive. The 120 Micron DiaFlat will handle all your stones.

[@discerningx3375]

@Lie-Nielsen Toolworks where can I get that sand paper roll product?

[@synapse131]

AskWoodman (here on YT) uses a 1 to 1 mix of water and Simple Green and water and states that it works very well to prevent any oxidation, it's cheap, won't affect any wood in the vicinity like oil based products, and is very easy to clean up. He uses for drilling in steel as well.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

Yes we do. So sorry for the slow response.

[@smfield]

I like jointing the blade by pulling it sideways. I find that it's easier to maintain square. Why stop at 400? Why not just continue the hone with paper, to say 1500?

[@simonblack6933]

How long is this supposed to take? I tried to redo my primary bevel by hand and it has taken hours...

[@MrApaHotel]

What kind of sand paper is recommended?

[@only1symo]

Is this applicable for an out of square plane iron?

[@snafuspyramid]

Using a hand-cranked bench grinder is an inexpensive way to grind back a blade with minimal risk to its temper. It's faster than sandpaper, and less expensive.

[@meanmna1]

In your setup board, you put something in front of the stop. Looks like a thin piece of wood or leather. What is this for? Why not just push up to the wood stop?

[@Mike--K]

I saw this in another of his videos. The 1/8-inch shim is used to increase the angle by a couple of degrees to create a secondary bevel.

[@b1j]

What about wet grinding?

[@strolgen]

do you guys sell this sand paper roll?

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

Nope they tend to come up cleanly. I've never had any residue come off on the table.

[@LieNielsenToolworks]

@dvtsaw We don't have any videos on sharpening auger bits I did however find this video which is only a visual demo with no audio from another KZbin channel kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpfTaZeJp9KXqtE

[@smfield]

I also use WD-40 for the lubricant, not water.

[@smfield]

Scary sharp, ie.

[@synapse131]

Doh! water only once. sorry.