Quincy QT-54 Air Compressor with custom built air dryer and RapidAir air line kit

[@kennisbutnerjr3947]

Jim, I always enjoy your videos! Never thought about cooling the air before the tank! That is an awesome setup, love the engineering... Last week I bought the exact same compressor from Northern Tool The tank rusted through on my 60gal Ingersol Rand after 23 years. I always kept the tank drained and it still rusted through before the compressor/motor died. I asked you a few questions about your AVID CNC many months back. I ended up buying a ShopBot PRS Alpha 4x8 ATC and made a 4 zone vacuum table using the Hurricane BlackBox vacuum pump. ShopBot is less than an hour from my house and I even got a factory tour and demo which was awesome. Thanks for the content and sharing your ideas!

[@JNWoodworks]

Thanks Kennis!

[@JNWoodworks]

Since we are now in the winter time our humidity has been up around 50% for a month or so and I have had only a few drops of water in the tank, so the cooler and water trap are still catching almost all the water.

[@ceesteven]

Nice work-great tips. Thank you for sharing. May God Bless.

[@philzail2532]

I have a Quincy and it runs smooth and quiet.

[@iclarsen]

very nice setup! I'm a huge "fan" of Quincy Compressors

[@JNWoodworks]

Thanks. Its still going strong.

[@SHarris64]

Nice setup and great description!! Thanks for the video. :)

[@MLFranklin]

Nice work. Interesting video.

[@JNWoodworks]

Thank you.

[@halfstep67]

Great video. I have the same compressor I bought a couple years ago. I am going to add the cooler to mine soon. I live in a high humidity area which leads to even more water. I think they should apply an epoxy paint to the inside of those compressor tanks to prevent rusting. I have the rapidair 3/4" piping also and have a few hose reels. I also have a CNC. I converted a milling machine, a Precision Matthews PM940. Having a good quality compressor with good air lines has made a big difference.

[@JNWoodworks]

Ya, my air gun can blow so much air now it's great. Sounds like you have a fun place to hang out in too 😁

[@BeaulieuTodd]

Been assembling my array of components for this same compressor. Praying the cooler actually works. I have plenty selectors downstream, as well. Also, increasing the hose doesn’t increase the pressure. Only the volume. CFM

[@JNWoodworks]

@@BeaulieuTodd If you just have the hose open at the end dumping into the air, then there isn't a pressure increase with a larger diameter hose at the end, but if you have anything useful that has some kind of restriction, then it will increase the pressure there for sure.

[@georgegause899]

Nice video info. I want to do the same with the fan have it kick on when compressor kicks on. Thanks!

[@zakkubiak3013]

Could you explain how you wired 240V into your AC->DC adapter? Did you connect each 120V leg from the compressor wiring to what would usually be hot and neutral on the 120 plug (and leave ground connected as usual)?

[@JNWoodworks]

Yes,that is exactly how I wired it.

[@nicholassmerk]

Here is a tip on the unloader valve. Put the check valve between the compressor and the cooler. Unload the air there, not in the cooler and water separator. There is nothing bad about the 3/4" line. My compressor tank has a 3/8" output and I just had to adapt up to 3/4" afterward. I'm just surprised you used 1/2" for that first brass T.

[@BeaulieuTodd]

The tank has a 1/2 output so I question the use of 3/4 after it.

[@nicholassmerk]

@@BeaulieuTodd a little restriction on the output but it still helps to limit additional friction after that point.

[@kendreyer1960]

Can I assume you ran a 3/4" line to the cooler? I have an old 5HP 2-stage CH with 3/4" lines from the high-pressure head to the tank. Where did you source the 3/4" compression to 8AN fittings? I've wanted to make this conversion for several years; I run 3/4" copper for my lines and drops. I'm trying to source link belt drive belts. They are very quiet as they don't adopt a memory if not run for a few days. I run them on my table saws. Nice job on yours!

[@JNWoodworks]

All the line between the compressor and tank are 1/2" lines (just like the stock ones). There isn't that much flow from the compressor to need 3/4" lines. I just did 3/4" lines from the tank output to all locations in my shop so I would not have large pressure drops when pulling a lot of air. I think I got all the fittings at Lowes and Home Depot. I just used 1/2 soft copper tubing and flared the ends and used a regular flare nut on the cooler fittings. I have used those link belts on previous table saws, they make a huge difference in noise and vibration. I don't recall hearing much/any belt noise on the compressor (both of the pullies on that are pretty big diameter, so less of a memory effect for the small pully) though, but something to think about. Most of noise left is just the compressor and motor from what I can tell.

[@sjettj7608]

Hey Jim I'll give you an idea May help you out with your compressor noise The bulk of the noise is coming from the intake side of the compressor if you take a fitting and put on there in a hose and extend it out into a bucket mount the filter on the other end of the hose and put it in the bucket and watch how much your noise drops

[@JNWoodworks]

hey, thats a really good tip. I never actually looked into it, but you're right, a lot of the noise comes from the air pulses on the intake port (I just put a towel over the hole and it was much quieter). Then I did a search for "air compressor intake silencers" and see there are a lot of after market products. I don't have the space for a bucket near mine, but I could connect it via a hose up into my attic (the air is cleaner up there too. I may also just build (or buy) a better intake than what comes on this thing. Thanks for the tip!

[@sjettj7608]

@@JNWoodworks I think or air compressor at the shop is 120 gallons and it's pretty big and what I did there because it was so noisy is I took a pipe fitting and screwed it into where the filter went into and then took a hose that was 1 in round because that's the size of the inlet in about 4 ft of rubber hose and then I put the filter on the opposite end of the river hose then I put the filter in a bucket but I drilled some holes and put some towels down there to keep the dust and dirt out of it and the filter actually stays really clean and it quite it down about half of the noise level that it is or maybe just a little bit more I was kind of shocked on how well it worked but good luck I'm glad I give you a good idea

[@jimandjulieneeb8529]

@@sjettj7608 I made a nice muffler today similar to what you did. I just used PVC though. It totally eliminated the intake air noise. I took some video and was about to create a KZbin video and my main PC died on me, so now I have to go computer shopping before I can finish it.

[@JNWoodworks]

Here is a video I did based on your idea. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKe5oYd4iLuJisU Thank you!

[@rockypyle2879]

Very Succinct, Thank You.

[@Garth2011]

Crinkle finish paint vs. high gloss these days? What brand motor did they put on that unit? I'm wondering if Quincy ending using Baldor motors.

[@JNWoodworks]

The paint is just a personal taste thing. I actually like the crinkle beause it shows scratches and marks less than the gloss. It is a very high quality paint job. The motor is still a good old Baldor. I don't see anything on this thing that I would consider a skimp in quality. I had a smaller 30 year old one that was still working like new when I gave it away and got this one, I expect I'll die before this one does 🙂

[@Garth2011]

@@JNWoodworksYes, same here however, its more difficult to keep them clean in a DIY shop with that kind of finish

[@anonimous2451]

Great work JiM...where di you get that isolating pad under the tank ?? I need one o those.

[@JNWoodworks]

That is called a stall mat. It's just a really dense piece of rubber that is for putting on the floor in horse pens. You can find them in places that sell animal supplies ( like Tractor supply). They work really well, my compressor never moves around sitting on that.

[@kentklingelberg7345]

What are the fillings you used in the pump head and into the tank?

[@JNWoodworks]

I just reused the fittings that were on there. They were 1/2" compression fittings.

[@paulmanhart4481]

Good video. I just ordered the same compressor and I have some questions. I want to use a flexible jumper hose between the compressor and aftercooler. But I don’t know what fitting I need on the compressor side. 1/2” NPT? But is it male or female? What connector do I use on both compressor output and tank input? I am also going with 3/4” lines for everything. I have calculated that it’s the best diameter for the number of feet I have to run. My aftercooler design takes the air from the compressor and goes to a release valve and then check valve. Then to 50’ of switchback copper tubing for a radiative cooler, then 50’ of copper tubing in a refrigerated cooler. Then to the tank. The pressure relief valve you show seems like it will drain my whole cooler. I thought it was located between the compressor and tank to drain the line of air. Maybe I’ll have to remove it from its current location. I find it difficult to get information out of Quincy and this is why I’m asking you. I’m particularly interested in how you hooked up your fan to slave to the compressor. Can you give me information on the power supply and wiring? Thanks

[@JNWoodworks]

Hi Paul, The compressor output and pressure relief valve (tank input) are both 1/2" compression fittings. The tank output is a 1/2" NPT female, but it came with a ball valve installed in it. The fan and power supply are listed in the description section. To have the fan run when the compressor does, I just wired the 12V power supply input the the pressure control switch, so basically the same place the motor connects. That's why I had to pick a power supply that could go up to 220V at the input.

[@JNWoodworks]

Also, if you need more details I can get you more when I get back home in a couple weeks.

[@johngaleano1291]

Hey Paul, I wouldn't use a flexible hose from the compressor head to the cooler. The heat coming from the compressor head can exceed temperatures over 300 degrees and thos hoses aren't rated for that much heat. Can be an accident waiting to happen.

[@JNWoodworks]

@@johngaleano1291 That is a good point John, I didn't catch that when he first mentioned it. That line from the compressor to the cooler gets too hot to touch in a couple of seconds after the compressor starts. It really should be copper.

[@johngaleano1291]

@@JNWoodworks yes I agree, better yet even aluminum tubing would be ideal for those higher temperatures. If I'm not mistaken, aluminum has a higher temperature rating. BTW great set up you have there 👌🏼👌🏼

[@flatcurve]

you think by running a bigger 3/4 regulator that maxes out at 200 vs most 1/2 inch regulators that max out at 160, but then the compressor car do 175 psi. That is better to run a 3/4 regualtor so you can get that extra psi if needed or not?

[@JNWoodworks]

It would depend on your needs I guess. My compressor tops out at around 150 psi, so I can't go higher if I wanted. Second, I run regular air guns and stuff that all need about 110psi or less, so I have no need for higher pressure than that. I guess some people would run high pressure in the line and a regulator at the end, which would boost your airflow at the end IF there is a lot of loss between the air compressor and the end of the line, but that is a lot of airflow. I can't see doing something like that in a home shop. Maybe in a big industrial setting.

[@schmidtwoodworks533]

Awesome job Jim - very clean setup. I have the same compressor and I just ordered the same trans cooler that you used. Do you (by chance) have any drawings or CAD of the bracket/mount you fabricated to hold the cooler to the compressor? Would save me a BUNCH of time!

[@JNWoodworks]

Unfortunately I did that old school - just kinda measured parts out one at a time and tacked them together before welding the brackets up. So I don't have any drawings. However, if some more detailed pictures would help, send me an email at [e-mail] and I'll send you whatever ones you would like.

[@paulmanhart4481]

Hi. I want to ask you how you connected your unloader valve (small elbow on pressure sensor) to the compressor output. It looks like a 1/8” Male NPT thread on the elbow but it’s not. This is the part that connects the unloader valve to the brass fitting at the tank entrance. The one with the small copper tube. Thanks

[@JNWoodworks]

Hi Paul, I didn't have to do anything to the unloader valve (other than zip tie a wad of cloth over its output port to quiet the noise when it discharges). The plumbing I did from the cooler to the tank joins up at a pressure relief valve mounted at the top of the tank. I just replaced the 1/2" copper line that came down from the second stage of the compressor to the valve body with the one that comes from the cooler. The pressure relief valve already had the 1/8" copper line coming out the side over to the unloader valve, so I didn't have to change any of that.

[@paulmanhart4481]

@@JNWoodworks Ok, sort of. But if you don’t want to release the air in your cooler every time the motor stops, I think you would need to Re plumb the unloader valve. If you leave the little copper tube connected the way it is, it purges all the air between output and tank input. Is this what you did? Thanks

[@JNWoodworks]

@@paulmanhart4481 No, it releases the air from the cooler just like it released it from the single pipe before. I replaced the single pipe that went from the compressor to the relief valve (that has the unloader hooked up to it) with a three pipes, the cooler, and the moisture separator. The unloader now goes a little longer because the volume of air in the cooler and a little more pipe takes longer to unload, but it is really all the same functionally.

[@JNWoodworks]

@@paulmanhart4481 The air cooler is just in line on the high pressure output of the compressor, so its fine to unload it when the compressor stops. There isn't that much volume in the extra length of line that this big compressor doesn't get it up to pressure quickly. The check valve for the tank is in that pressure relief assembly mounted to the tank, so to not unload the cooler I'd have to replumb the checkvalve between the compressor and cooler. That would be a lot more work, and I'm not sure what the benefit would be.

[@johngau8503]

Jim, I am doing this same setup. I would like to know what fittings and copper tubing you used to attach the aftercooler. The one I have has 8N fittings on it. I would like to know the fittings you used so I can connect Mine. Thanks in advance. John

[@JNWoodworks]

Hi John, The copper tubing is just 1/2" soft copper tubing (L thickness) I got from Lowe's or HD (can't remember). The fittings are also just standard 1/2" copper flair nuts from the same place.

[@marcuswhite1403]

I'm about to add that same trans cooler to my compressor. Did you have to use a flare tool for the compression fittings? Also, what size fittings are on the end of the trans cooler?

[@JNWoodworks]

The cooler fittings are standard 1/2" flare fittings. I just got the flare nuts from Lowes. The compressor fittings are standard 1/2" compression fittings.

[@marcuswhite1403]

@@JNWoodworks thanks

[@marcuswhite1403]

@@JNWoodworks I went by my local hardware store, all they had were flare fittings. I may have to make a trip to my closest Lowes. You had to use flare fitting to the cooler? and what type of fittings did you use going to the compressor. My compressor has compression fittings. Not sure if i can change it to flare fittings.

[@JNWoodworks]

@@marcuswhite1403 Yes, the two cooler fittings are 1/2" flare. The same thing that you use on gas lines. The fittings on the compressor and valve assembly on the tank are 1/2 compression. So I made my own lines from soft copper. That way you can flare one end, and use a compression on the other end. For the water trap you can use whatever you want since you have to convert it to NPT to screw into the trap.

[@marcuswhite1403]

@@JNWoodworks Thanks. Never thought about it that way. I was thinking about if I used flare fittings to hook to the cooler, would I be able to use compression fittings to go to the compressor or would I have to figure out how to get flare fittings to the compressor lol

[@rickloera9468]

Please give me a list of fittings that you used. My Grizzly 40 gallon compressor looks like it has more tubes coming out because I have three pistons that these tubes are running through. I will probably have to set it up as an after tank system. I I I am only going to be an occasional user so I'm less concerned about rust. I have the same trans cooler as your unit.

[@JNWoodworks]

Hi Rick, Are you talking about the ones at the end of the Rapid Air lines, or the ones on the compressor? The fittings for the cooler are just standard flare nuts for 1/2" copper line. I got them at Lowes. The rest I just cobbled together based on what was needed, for example the copper line from the cooler to the water trap just needs to be a 1/2" flare fitting screwed into a fitting with a 3/4" NPT. I just go to lowes or HD and look at what they have on the shelf that can convert from one to the other. I would recommend using a 1/2" water trap next to the cooler to save the number of fittings you need to convert the sizes, and maybe even a 1/2" regulator too if you only have a 40gallon tank. Then you don't have to convert from 3/4" to 1/2". If you are talking about the Rapid Air fittings that are bolted to the wall, just search for "rapid air" on Amazon and you will see there is a ton of different fitting, outlets, etc. to suite your needs.

[@rickloera9468]

@@JNWoodworks OK thanks. I wanted to send a picture, because a picture tells a clearly story. I will look into that and see what I need. My biggest concern is disconnecting lines at the top of the compressor. Most people I've seen on You Tube have one tube going in and one going out. Mine has that plus lines going to three separate cylinders. That is why I may just connect mine as it comes out of the tank. I know the best way to do this is pre tank so cooler air enters the tank which means less condensation. Anyway thanks for the info. That should get me in the right direction so I can start painting some cars. I have about five waiting in the queue.

[@JNWoodworks]

@@rickloera9468 you can send me an email with pictures at [e-mail]. I think I have an idea to solve your problem, but I'll wait for the pictures.

[@_mylastname]

Even occasional use will cause rust . The hot compressed air in the tank cooling down causes water

[@JNWoodworks]

@@_mylastname Correct, you can never get rid of all the moisture. However, the purpose of removing as much of the water as you can is not to prevent rust in the tank, it is to keep it from condensing in the spray gun, or laser, or whatever you have at the end of the air line. I still have to drain a little bit of water out of my tank periodically.

[@andylutz4089]

I liked your video. Where did you get the transmission cooler from? Thanks

[@JNWoodworks]

Thanks. The parts list with links is in the Description section above.

[@MLFranklin]

Will installing that intercooler affect the warranty?

[@JNWoodworks]

I would assume that any modification would void the warranty (manufactures will use any reason to get out of a warranty these days, but I can't speak for Quincy so I don't know for sure), though in this case I think its actually good for the unit because the air is cooled and dried before it enters the valves and tank.

[@DrewYoung]

Did you thread the copper tubing?

[@JNWoodworks]

No, the copper tubing is all compression fittings.

[@DrewYoung]

@@JNWoodworksthanks for quick reply. Also do you know if the water trap was 1/2” or 3/4”?

[@JNWoodworks]

@@DrewYoung The one I have between the compressor and tank is 3/4", which is not only not required (the copper tubing is 1/2", and the flow rate is low), it required an extra set of couplers to step up and back down again. So I would do a 1/2" if I did this again.

[@parkerbrothers75]

Did you run 8/3 or 8/2 for you 40 amp breaker?

[@JNWoodworks]

8/2. No need for 120v on it.

[@parkerbrothers75]

Thanks

[@JNWoodworks]

I forgot to mention, the reason for that is that I make sure the DC power supply for the fan was dual voltage. This one can work on up to 250V, so I could hook it right to the pressure switch output at 240V.

[@klasvossful]

Did you custom cut, bend and flare the copper tubing?

[@JNWoodworks]

Yes, it was a good excuse to learn how to do all that and buy a couple small tools 😁. The flaring was very easy, but it took a few trys to figure out how to bend the tubing without kinking. It isnt too pretty, but it doesn't leak.

[@klasvossful]

@@JNWoodworks Thanks! Purchased this exact compressor a few days ago. I'm wanting to add the cooler to it like you did. Excellent video!

[@JNWoodworks]

@@klasvossful Thanks :-)

[@klasvossful]

Hey Jim! I am needing to wire up the fan and have the exact one you purchased. Is it possible to get a wiring diagram or some pictures maybe of how you did it. Thanks.

[@JNWoodworks]

@@klasvossful sure, send me an email at [e-mail] and I'll reply with a couple pics. Its pretty simple.

[@1lowrado]

20 minutes and no video of it running. C’mon man.

[@JNWoodworks]

I guess you wanted to judge how loud it is? Its hard to judge volume level on a video (I have to adjust the audio on my clips all the time to get them to be the same level). Its like most any compressor this size, fairly loud. Thats why its on the opposite side of my garage from my work area.