R170 A Vintage Arnold Rapido

[@shemp308]

I just got two sets with this engine in Santafe colors! The two I have. One has two broken couplers! Thanks to your video, it looks like replacing them will be easy! Thanks.

[@SoRTs6233]

Hi Michael, thanks for looking in. I found out that these were released in Santa Fe livery but I eventualy deciphered 'Baltimore & Ohio' beneath the paint. I do hope you get your couplers repaired. Please let me know. I appreciate your kind comments. Take care, Jim L

[@SA-oz8ms]

What a smart probing tool you created

[@timsmith8189]

It was fascinating watching you discover how it worked as you worked. The satisfaction from getting it running is hard to describe. As I am watching this in April 22 I do hope those pesky mice have gone 🐭

[@SoRTs6233]

Thanks for your comments. I set some humane capture traps, found two, took them to the countryside and released, and they've never come back! So far! Take care, Jim L

[@BobSimpkin]

Great video, thanks for doing it. I was researching whether the lights on Arnold N locomotives work in both forward and reverse directions as I'm trying to replace a standard bulb with an LED and the search bought me here. I didn't find the answer but thoroughly enjoyed watching you bring the little "Santa Fe" back to life.

[@michaelbujaki2462]

27:45 You've actually stumbled on to a bygone feature of Arnold locomotives. The locomotives were all designed so that you could run them in opposite directions on the same track, allowing for more complex operations. If you wanted to, you could also buy the cantenary kit and draw power form an overhead line. If you ever see an Arnold Rapido Technik manual, check it out. You may also want to know that the first electric N Scale locomotive released in 1966. This particular model released in 1967.

[@SoRTs6233]

Hi Michael, thanks for looking in. What you've said has made a lot of sense! And I thought I'd got it wrong! (That is because I was sure I'd taken note of how it came apart and when it ran in the 'wrong' way, I got confused!) I just love how viewers, like yourself, are so keen to help me increase my knowledge. I really appreciate that. I am now in the look-out for an Arnold Manual. Take care, friend. Cheers, Jim L

[@mgamga9476]

The most important part I needed to see you pulled it off the camera

[@SoRTs6233]

Hi MGA MGA (so good you are named twice?). I'm sorry you missed a bit. Could you let me know what you hoped to see? Sometimes I 'miss' a bit through either, it's so routine I do it most times, or, something went wrong and it ends up being deleted. Cheers, Jim L

[@martindaredare]

Good to see another video Jim, this was an interesting challenge for you but you sorted it out and it looks well. Flipping mice are a pain. All the best Martin 👍

[@SoRTs6233]

Thanks Martin, a different model altogether. And those mice? Not a lot I can do about them unless I can find a resident cat! Catch up later. Jim L

[@arrow1414]

The blue one, the EMD FP9, (you can usually tell the differences between the F-series locos from the top fan configurations and also the side panel porthole configurations) is indeed Arnold-Rapido, but an FP9 not an F7 Arnold-Rapido got that wrong. It is indeed a custom paint job but it is a poorly done Santa Fe freight livery from the mid 1950s. It didn't look quite like that. It is an "A" unit signifying that it has contromol cab. The "B" unit is a Bachmann F7B made in the late 1990s, early 2000's. It has a factory paint job depicting Pennsylvania Railroad livery.

[@waynespencer4247]

Another enjoyable video Jim. It's funny when opened the box it looked like a mouse nest not knowing till the end you had some mouse damage, little pests.

[@SoRTs6233]

Hi Wayne, never thought of it like that- almost like a portend of doom! Glad you enjoyed it anyway! (Those pesky mice!)

[@kokodin5895]

i have this chasis on my old v200 diesel , very wierd design in my case motor had burnt brushes and windings so i rewinded it by hand and replaced brushes this motor also like to eat up bushings if i remember corectly i hammered it open :] it is actuaally easy to take apart and then put back together when you finaly take one worm gear off bogies can be taken off without disasembling my loco runs at 12V pwm but i have no idea if that's even correct, but i was gauging voltage of the motor by the brightness of those bulbs also those diecasts have very chipy paint, it does not hold up to the metal, no wonder it was repainted (if it did)

[@SoRTs6233]

Hi there, thanks for sharing your story. I feel fortunate that I hadn't to rewind motors, and the brushes still worked. My layout is 12v DC and the loco operates well. (I still can't clean-up those wheels!). Thanks for looking in, take care. Maybe catch up again? Cheers, Jim L

[@Nathanm7977]

always love seeing you bring these old engines back to life. great work

[@SoRTs6233]

Thanks Nathan, I always appreciate your input. I never know what I'm going to come across when I open a strange loco - so when I get them going, I do admit to a certain sense of achievement! I enjoy these 'vintage' locos rather than the new, shiny locos as they seem to have more character. Take care. Cheers, Jim L

[@gerardburton3741]

The way it looks like it is put together seems to show that minimum soldering if any soldering was needed. Therefore you do not need skilled people to put it together. Therefore making it cheaper to produce.

[@SoRTs6233]

That's an interesting take. The technology has definitely changed since this was made. Thanks for looking in. Jim L