Radial Arm Saw 3

[@johnbouttell5827]

An elegant solution which highlights the arm saw aesthetics. Mr DeWalt -- I assume he was a mister -- would be proud of you.

[@AWoodworkersLife]

Very nice saw station. No issues with galvanic corrosion when using stainless fasteners in cast aluminum alloys. Nice work.

[@peteawest]

@frank I hope you’re working on a book that features all of your ingenuity and tips and tricks. You approach wood working so much more intelligently than I’ve ever seen.

[@dogwoodtales]

great design change in making a panic shut off bar like that. i think that there is a high likelihood that if you need it you won't want to have to move your hands to get to it plus have to reach over the top to get to it as well. make safety easy.

[@red_freckle]

When I have to cut a notch out like that I usually just start the saw up with the blade all the way down and slowly raise it up through the material, it's just a bit more accurate than dropping the material onto the blade. Works great for making shaker style and raised panel cabinet doors as well, the result being that what would be the rails and styles of the door are made from one solid piece, so no joints.

[@wilcogrundens9086]

Add a feather board on the fence and Bobs your uncle. No chance of rising piece or kickback.

[@eldsprutandedrake]

"At some point you just have to stop and just use it" ...I don't agree with that at all! Well, I kind of do, but there is something really satisfying about just improving your things and making things nicer and nicer. I´m currently going through that in my kitchen, and apartment in general. Right now I have the nicest and most well-equipped kitchen I have ever had, and it keeps getting better. Meanwhile I cook like half as much as I used too, if that. So yea, it's stupid, but it makes me happy ^^

[@henrigehrt5841]

bessey has some nice self adjusting clamps. no more turning that handle a million times when adjusting from big to small stock. model STC-VH for example

[@parkermusselman9824]

One trick to milling plastics is high pressure air. It keeps the plastic cool and the chips moving out of the cut.

[@brianboni4876]

I cut a lot of plastics with my router and have found that lowering the speed works to keep the plastic clean, I had to go to an external speed control to get it slow enough but it works great. Plastic that I used to just burn up now cuts like butter.

[@jomgelborn]

Yep, high feed, slow speed.

[@ThomasTheFapEngine]

Every time I watch your videos, your workshop amazes me.

[@adamengland6609]

Maybe the perfect saw station? Nice one Frank always love your videos. I always smile when you say "thanks for watching", I just want to say - Thank you for sharing and taking the time to make such good videos.

[@StubblyVlog]

For cutting Acrylic sheets or Plexiglass in a more precise fashion with really nice edges, you could always invest in a Laser Cutter.

[@frontier884]

I have never seen one of your videos that I did not like. Keep up the great work!

[@benbencom]

For cutting plastic on the router you want an "O Flute" bit. The single flute lets you increase the chip loading without having to slow the spindle down outside its power band.

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. I think you should have some big fluorescent signs with big arrows pointing towards the death stop. Perhaps you could also invest in some flashing lights, an orange vest and a piezo buzzer just to keep all the NUTTERS happy. 99% of the time you would be on your own in the shop. If something would happen who would push the large red knob? Just be careful, mate, that's all you should be doing.

[@HoldFastFilms]

he needs to beep when he is backing up too. gotta stay safe!

[@Kashif121472]

Beautiful work

[@BurtonsAttic]

I have a Dewalt 12" GP RAS that is 3 phase 5hp. I had to use a VFD to power it with 230V 1 phase. It has a ramp setting for power up and power down. I have both set to 5 seconds. It works great. Before I set it mine did the same thing, it would still be spinning and I was ready for the next operation...........I need to put an e-stop on mine.

[@mmonroeapbi]

I really enjoyed the video for the most part. The problem I did have was with you making a $50-$75 table top with over $100k worth of tools. It gets tough to appreciate for the garage woodworker. However, I did get several good ideas from it

[@danielhowell5117]

I like "stop.. and just use it." Shop update videos are nice but your channel shows a good balance between improving your work space and actually making "things" you'll get some use out of. Happy New Year!

[@frollard]

I know it's your shop so making it for everyone isn't key -- I'd really want to see cnc engraving on the panic bar to say that it's an e-stop :) Brilliant work as always!

[@ww321]

great video Frank. I have a old De Walt 10 in radial arm saw I really like.

[@richryan8904]

Hi Frank. I enjoyed the neatness of this upgrade, the return to form/lack of pimple for the saw, and most of all the air "FLAP!" of the little piece of wood at 0.59. Top stuff. Thanks for makin' and a Happy New Year to you.

[@TheSafecrkr1]

The panic bar is a g reat upgrade. I think that would be great for a table saw also.

[@kperellie]

Clever panic button fix and I'd bet a better safer application. I am surprised about your choice of fence clamps' though. I would have thought the quick clamps' would have been a better choice than the screw type unless for some reason the quick type wouldn't work.

[@Torsan1977]

Great job as always!! I think cast acrylic is easier to CNC than extruded acrylic. I tried both and the cast version cut great, while the extruded gummed up the bit completely.

[@frankmakes]

I did not know there was a diffidence. Thanks

[@RDJim]

That set up is a work of art... rough art... but good art.

[@goober650NX]

Nice bit of fettling. 👍📏📐🔧🔩 Thanks for the upload and a happy new year to you and yours.

[@youtubasoarus]

Was thinking a "push to stop" and some yellow/black diagonal striping on the face of the plate would be a nice finish. Great craftsmanship on the project otherwise.

[@Flowsalvador]

Gracias Frank. Thank you Frank. Please talk about CNC machine you have used. Thanks.

[@1metiz]

Maybe cool your bit with a water mist when you're cutting to prevent the bit from melting the plexiglass and gumming it up

[@toodle171]

BTW stainless and aluminum are well known for galvanic corrosion in water, don't know about the dry environment.

[@mckenziekeith7434]

Yeah, the stainless causes the aluminum to corrode and the screw becomes non-removeable. I think Frank should change it out for galvanized. The zinc will protect both the steel screw and the aluminum threads until it is gone. If his shop is dry, he could probably just put a dab of something on the screw. Never-seize or something.

[@ThnkCmdyFeelTrgdy]

Any time you can easily de-power equipment in an emergency is a good thing. The old placement was certainly awkward and only marginally better than the actual power buttons (maybe). My Dewalt 925 has the key switch on side of arm so an emergency shutdown on front is more necessary. One of the safest things I did though was add a pneumatic foot switch for the power. It makes the saw much safer since you do not need to remove your hands from the saw handle or the piece of wood you might be holding. and it still doesn't stop you from using the main power switch for those times when you might be doing long rip cuts. I'm not sure how effective or useful the acrylic guard is but it doesn't detract from saw operation. And like the other guy said definitely polycarbonate never acrylic. As safety seems to be of concern, I am wondering why you don't have the kickback teeth/guard on?

[@Ritalie]

Do you have photos of your saw setup? I have a Dewalt radial arm saw, an MBF, and it has the horrible key power switch on the back of the arm, not sure who thought this was a good idea, it's one of the only downsides to the old saws, maybe the only downside. The slightly newer saw, model 1400 I have, has a motor brake, and a front mounted power button on the front of the arm. I'm leaning towards using the newer uglier saw, becuase it's a better saw. But it's a tough decision, because the newer Dewalt angular arm saws, whilst better in some ways, just aren't beautiful like the MBF series. The 925 does retain the vintage beauty, in a lot of ways.

[@BoomerKeith1]

Love the video Frank! You have a dream shop!

[@billiondollardan]

Happy New Year!

[@aaronunroe5267]

Nice video! Thanks for posting

[@bentonkin215]

buy some single flute router bits . they will blow right thru the plastic . you can get them at any tooling provider.

[@stephenborst3535]

on plexiglass use a razor sharp two flute end mill at a couple thousand rpm , use a med to high feed rate, and blast the end mill with your air nozzle while your cutting, heat is the enemy !

[@Curtis-Randall]

Do about 6 passes on 1/4" clear. Takes forever but no melting. You might have to go a bit faster than you would think.

[@Buck1954]

With plastic, multiple Carbide tipped teeth. Any other teeth and the plastic just melts. I used to build fish tanks and we built a lot of specialized handling equipment from wood working tools.

[@coreyolson9217]

I kinda wish you had made this out of green plexiglass or something. That way you could overlay video while you are cutting with this saw. Maybe that wouldn't work, but just a thought

[@doubledarefan]

Turn plugs to fill the holes where the panic box was.

[@tomalcolm]

Frank is KING!

[@ReevansElectro]

I think it would be better with a DC Brake circuit on the motor.

[@OneManBandWoodworks]

Nice work mate, I reckon you should add some red paint and a STOP sign to that panel, especially if a friend helps you out in the shop one day.

[@ncmartinez_his]

I'm waiting for your homemade wooden drone camera that you use for aerial shots of you working.

[@rickmatthewjones]

Glad to see the project turned out well. I was wondering about that panic button--very well done. Glad the form of the saw is still the star of the show. I always love when you mention where you get your material. (ex. In this vid, you specified that the fir you used for the trim was from your kitchen remodel. Made me want to watch that arc all over again.) As a fellow Portlander who's new to woodworking, I'd love to hear about places where you typically go to PURCHASE material. Markup on walnut gets more pricey every week at Woodcrafter's. What places should I be considering?

[@Tjita1]

An idea for the dust collection on the blade guard, could you maybe make a telescopic tube instead of the big bulky ugly hose that's normally supposed to go there?

[@dumle29]

He does dust collection through the fence :) why use the guard hose hole when he has such an elegant setup?

[@malachilandis9542]

If you had fun cutting plexi on the CNC router, you should try aluminum ;P I had soooo much fun getting it working on my router...

[@frankmakes]

I hear that's even more finicky about feeds and speeds.

[@malachilandis9542]

frank howarth Yeah, the tool matters a lot too. More expensive, unfortunately.

[@matthewpruett4473]

Would you consider selling a collection of your videos on maybe a flash drive or a DVD? I would love to have your collection to keep in the shop and view when I want without having to view on line.

[@sdrouin3612]

Très beau projet. assurer - vous d'utiliser un plastique non cassant comme le lexan flexible ou certains grades de polycarbonate. Merci de partager

[@ypaulbrown]

wonderful

[@adrianhanson9584]

Thanks for makin' !

[@EloquenteMente]

really nice!

[@peter-mk4ig]

Hi frank, love your videos. Can you do a video on simple projects for us novices that can be achieved with a some hand tools that could also be sold. Thanks :)

[@holdemNE1]

No Go to wood working for mere mortals

[@johnmcmunn3827]

I suggest a light squirt of WD40 on the cutter .. will help with material sticking to it .. regards john

[@CVCceo]

Frank, when we cut plastic and plexiglass on the CNC we use an Onsrud 63-776 End Mill (www.amazon.com/LMT-Onsrud-63-776-Uncoated-Diameter/dp/B001VXS2SW). It does an excellent job, however, the size is not exactly 0.25" so you need to mic it enter the correct size in your tool database. Hope you find that helpful. Happy New Year!

[@mrfrontranger7911]

I was told that lexan does not gum up as plexi does, also it wont crack like plexi. Maybe check that out.

[@ronwood3214]

Very informative thank you. Where did you find those clamps?

[@stefanotommassodisimone7241]

I would try turning the speed of your bit down a touch

[@enduser6957]

Awesome...are you going to paint the action hinge with a loud color?

[@frankmakes]

I should

[@RedBairnMedia]

Would there be a way to cut the power and apply a brake to the blade? Obviously the power is cut, but that thing has a load of momentum and looks as if there'd be a lot of cutting potential even after the button had been pushed whilst it slowly spins down. Or am I missing the point?

[@mckenziekeith7434]

DC injection, or an external mechanical brake.

[@thomasrussell8022]

now you just need a hole plug for the hole you took the kill switch out of.

[@andrewmullen4003]

great videos Frank, love them, did you find you needed to block the original dust collection holes in the saw-guards, and if you did was it any internal blank , just vaguely curious, keep up the great work.

[@emil1pope1]

Hey Frank, i noticed that you use milwauke battery driven tools; do you like them? - would you please do a review on them ? - i stand in front of choosing which brand to buy into as I'm starting a shop of my own. Cheers!

[@lindaloftus8780]

Sorry I meant for the radial arm saw. Never seen one you could turn down.

[@bigdogmn73]

Make me want to go out and find a old RADs...but than I wake up and figure out I have a 3rd car stall in my garage..

[@genin69]

plastic usually prefer slower speeds. I wok with Kydex all day and slow is best, fast speeds just melt it and it gums up. Also the faster speeds create a finer plastic dust which is not that great with humans

[@X-OR_]

Another Great Video.. Happy New Year Frank !!!!

[@sammason133]

Hey Frank I love your videos so cool you put so much into them I enjoy watching them I love the dust collection you have on your radial arm saws do you have a video on their creation ? also on how you created the closing sequence with the stop motion would be cool to watch .thanks for the hard work !

[@DomCristante]

perfect timing, "2:00am watching this, man im tired i think ill just close my eyes to a few seconds (air gun) PPSSSSTTT.... nearly shat myself

[@WKYanks]

Is that a 12 or 14-inch table saw?

[@hammercity905]

how did you square the fence when you made it? Or did you just square the saw after it was installed?

[@frankmakes]

Got it close, then squared the arm of the saw with my big drafting triangle

[@colinqjames]

Frank, what is the new tool just inside the door ?

[@iraydiaz5888]

cool

[@queenofyeay]

Now you have an "acne scar' where the panic button was! ; )

[@michaelwalimaa1806]

That is where the beer holder is going to go!

[@DerClaudius]

Not sure the emergency stop bar is a good idea. You want those visible even for visitors who don't know where the emergency stop is hidden

[@richardlongoria9724]

Frank on your table how did you make the fence? Richard San Antonio TX

[@RPSchonherr]

I have to be honest Frank. That cut off button should be placed in an obvious spot away from the saw itself such at the left end of the table in case someone else needs to us it when you can't. Maybe paint the flap red or a STOP sign on it? My high school wood shop had a panic button at the entrance and killed the power to everything in the shop.

[@frankmakes]

My wife asked if the button needed to be more noticeable

[@RPSchonherr]

frank howarth Your wife loves you :)

[@stekker1041]

If the regulation is anything like in Europe modifying safeties requires you to reinstall it in compliance with the latest standards/laws. In this case that would mean a lot more modifications. (such as switching using two contacts) Also, I'm pretty sure it has to be red/yellow. You may want to contact some electrician that knows about modifying safeties on machines to be sure ;)

[@BrentGarland81]

Le Stekker dude This is franks personal shop. There are Frank's regulations and that's it. Period. Europe shmurope.

[@oobaka1967]

In that case, no one would require building permits. Who cares if the electrical isn't up to code. It's my house. So what if there are bare wires everywhere.

[@bob71014]

for the dust collection gate. you could drill through the top shroud and extend the knob up through that, then under the shroud install magnets to hold it in the up position. that way you don't need to take off the shroud. awesome videos. love watching them

[@Tjita1]

That's really smart!

[@MRrwmac]

Robert Ruddy Great idea. Hope Frank considers it?!

[@brandon.raguz1]

Great idea! and he could miter the edge of the gate on the side closer to the vent so as to reduce airflow blockage

[@andy4an]

it looks like the wood is very tight and takes a bit of finagling to remove. It is possible that you can't just pull up on it. Also, the gate being inside the airflow might decrease the performance of the dust collection system. That said, I love it when people think creatively like that, and really enjoyed your post.

[@frankmakes]

I like that.

[@hendrikhanshavermoudt7520]

I always learned that you need to tape off your cut when cutting plexiglass

[@tomalcolm]

Hendrik Hans Havermoudt I can't believe how good the guard looks.

[@hendrikhanshavermoudt7520]

tomalcolm Why can't you believe how good the guard looks?

[@MaxMakerChannel]

Spray it with alcohol while its cutting. It will keep it cool and it does not warp the wood. I also use it for aluminium on my CNC. With alcohol you can pretty much go as fast or slow as you want and it won't gum up.

[@thermmaloverload]

Max Maker soapy water also works well and a single flute cutter

[@Ritalie]

Good tip. I've never been able to work with plexiglass because it melts and creates rough edges when drilling and cutting. I was thinking that water would prevent the melting and make cleaner edges. But alcohol (would windex work too?) would prevent the water from rusting everything. Note, in cars, you can actually spray water into your engine, and get away with running way lower octane fuel, without spark knock (detonation/ping). How they've managed to keep this a secret after all these years, is a mystery. Most people who build turbocharged cars, know about water injection, they sell kits. You spray a water mist into the engine, and it cannot ever blow a head gasket from detonation.

[@EcoMouseChannel]

If you happened to be using polycarbonate instead of acrylic, then yes... it is more gummy. But it's also shatter proof. Something you do want for any type of guard. Secondly, go back and remove your stainless screws and dip them in Phillips Milk of Magnesia. (Yes, seriously... it's a thing, you can google it) Then you will not get galvanic corrosion or galling. They will remove easier as well.

[@DavidStanton]

Thanks for your posts Frank, very informative and relaxed!

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

Safety regulations on Mars now require an E-stop button for each of your five tentacles. These buttons must be color coded in the direction of the planet's rotation: anti-phasic chartreuse, protonic crimson, nebulaic azure, dichroic sulfur yellow, and intergalactic distress orange. Colors must be resistant to gamma radiation to a depth of 33 meters methane, and must be visible to the naked compound eye at twice tentacle's length or 12 meters, whichever is greater under standard gravity. All viewers should boycott Frank's channel until this regulation is met, on the chance that a Martian guest uses his shop. Or, Frank could simply say, "Here's the e-stop. Knee this flap!" Anybody who doesn't get that has no business in there. My dad's little-used 1958 DeWalt took a long time to spin down in 1965 and it's no different today.

[@hudsonriverlee]

For the stainless steel screws, coat them with regular flavor milk of magnesia. This will prevent dissimilar metal corrosion.

[@jonq8714]

Why go with the radial arm instead of a sliding compound miter (other than them looking cooler)? Radial arm's always felt more dangerous to me... v

[@johnshepard1157]

I'm a local glass worker in the town I live in and along side working with plexiglass I work with a material known as lexan. Lexan is a polycarbonate and it won't break or crack like plexiglass. Plexiglass is acrylic so it has those tendencies. Also lexan is more durable and scratch resistant. A person can use any type of machine to shape lexan without worrying about breaking it and with my experiences with lexan it doesn't have as much of a tendency to gum up blades or bits. Cheers!

[@sam-and-angela]

If there's one thing I hate, it's the negate of the gate, my mate! @6:00

[@mrfrontranger7911]

Best setup for old saws ive ever seen. Kant clamps seem like a good idea can yo post a link to where you buy them? Thanks

[@TrustNotta]

Frank. Where are you getting these clamps from? The kind you used as hold downs.

[@donnymcarter]

Nice flap flipping Frank!

[@RoboCNCnl]

For cutting plexiglass make sure to use Cast (GS) quality and not Extruded (XT). Make sure to climbcut instead of conventional and cool with normal shop air... I made a video on it.. A single flute polished cutter works best

[@hpekristiansen]

A hidden panic button.

[@andy4an]

yo dawg, heard you like to panic, so I hit your panic button so you can panic while you panic.

[@Leofred2000]

So its not so easy to get panic :)

[@madinatore]

hmm I would have espected toogle clamps instead of twist clamps

[@forestlampcraft472]

I always learned that you need to tape off your cut when cutting plexiglass

[@frankmakes]

does the tape get gummed up in the bit?

[@forestlampcraft472]

Sorry didn't mean to say )))

[@ermesarredondo2528]

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[@ermesarredondo2528]

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[@dejanira2]

I do enjoy your videos, projects both shop and non shop. The segmented bowls are fabulous.

[@DuineFion]

Always happy when you upload!!

[@YouCanMakeThisToo]

That blade cover looks sharper. I really like the panic flap. I set my lathe up similar where I can stop it with my thigh, feels safer. -Caleb Harris

[@Jubilak]

I dunno, that wouldn't fly in a workplace. The panic button is big and red for a reason :/

[@Ritalie]

Just amazing, love all the ingenuity! I have two Dewalt cast iron radial arm saws, and I can't figure out what to do with the key power switch located in the very back of the saw, because it's such an awkward position for the power switch. On the newer Dewalt, it has front facing power buttons on the arm, so I'm thinking I'll probably use the newer Dewalt saw as my primary saw.